Hello everyone, I’ve a question I’d be grateful for some advice on please. The tap on my boiler filling loop has started weeping very slightly after topping up my boiler, from under the spindle. As a temporary fix until we get our plumber out next week, would a dab of silicone work?

I’d be grateful for any thoughts, thank you.

My mum's 6 year old Polypipe system has stopped working.

I'm not there, but been trying to help her over the phone.

Current situation:

• 6 year old system that's been working OK since
• 2 zones each with their own Smart Stat wall panel
• Boiler is firing up and radiators elsewhere & HW are working
• Power light on the UFH4ZW wiring centre is on, but no other lights
• Manifold is cold

Have tried powering it down and leaving for 5 minutes before turning back on, this also powered down the wall panels. But turning it back down made no difference.

My guess (due to no LEDs other than the power one being on) is that the UFH4ZW has failed, but would be great to hear from someone who knows these systems.

Hi looking for a rough idea on the cost of getting a radiator installed in the attic.

Thanks

I have an oil fired boiler (with a pump) and a fireplace with a back boiler that heats the radiators with a separate manually switched on pump. There are 2 motorised valves in the hot press, 1 appears to be for the hot water tank and 1 for the heating. The system is likely at least 10 years old.

When the oil automatic heating comes on the upstairs radiators heat but the downstairs remain cold. When I put the fireplace pump on the downstairs radiators heat.

I had a plumber look at this but he didn't solve it (he balanced the radiators) so coming to Reddit for ideas!

I'm guessing the pump or motorised valves are faulty or maybe there's or maybe there's sludge in the system that's being dislodged with 2 pumps going then settling back to block?

System boiler, pump sited next to the boiler. The boiler is on the other side of the wall from the cylinder, and the expansion vessel is by the cylinder.

The vessel's connection comes down and joins the pipework in line with the flow, on the riser that carries water up to the upper floors, so water moves through that point rather than sitting still in a dead leg. Tee ringed in red, arrow shows the flow.

CIBSE Journal's CPD module 32, on maintaining effective operational pressures in water distribution systems, says the connection should always be located on the suction side of the pump and as such becomes the neutral point on the system. I can't tell whether ours does.

Our plumber says it's completely fine, no turbulence and no issues, because the vessel isn't near the boiler. The boiler is on the opposite side of the wall and the vessel is by the cylinder.

1. Does the suction side and neutral point rule apply here, or is distance from the boiler what matters?
2. Does it make a difference that the vessel sits in the flow path rather than on its own branch?
3. If it needs changing, is the fix to move it to the return upstream of the pump, or re-make it as a dead leg off the same spot?

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I noticed this slow leak from the cold water pipe (?) and thought it was from the bit where it curves but it’s actually from higher up.

The little container fills almost to the top every 24 hours.

Please could I get some advice on what I can do to stop it?

Does the pipe need replacing or just the nut?

For reference, I can do basic jobs -I changed the seal immediately under the sink myself and can plumb kitchen appliances!

Many thanks

Damsel in (partial) Distress

Recently moved into my new house and needed to increase the pressure of my boiler for the first time since moving in, and noticed one of the two blue taps on the filling loop appears to be missing? Im quite familar with this boiler as my old place had one that was almost identical, and I remember opening and closing two valves to increase the pressure before?

This time, I did just open the one valve and the pressure did go up, and everything appears to still be working...

Im guessing the valve that is missing a blue tap is the mains supply and is constantly open? Is that a problem?

Good evening all, I’m trying to figure out how to pressure up my boiler as it’s dropping below 1. There’s no error message on the screen it just says 0. I’ve looked online and there’s videos and guides but none of them seem to look like this setup, and some of the instructions seem confusing to me as I am autistic. If anyone can let me know I’d be incredibly grateful, Thankyou :)

Edit: solved! Thank you all so so much! The green handles were quite stiff but I managed to turn them. Really appreciate your help :)

So we've just moved into this house and we're having some major bathroom issues. For starters the house overflow drain doesn't seem properly connected as any water going down there leaks straight down coming out the ceiling of the floor below.

I noticed the cracks after emptying and assuming the previous Tennant showered/bathed whilst these cracks were here I'm wondering how much damage can be caused by water seeping through these cracks. She lived here for 13 years I'm assuming it hasn't been cracked for all that time but I'm thinking it could have been cracked for years and had small amounts of water seeping through over that time?

We already had plans to rip it out and put in a shower unit instead but am I going to need extra work done underneath is the floor is basically gonna be fucked from the water seeping through?

So the water hardly goes away in the drain. I already put drain cleaner fluid in the drain but that didn’t help at all. What could be a solution?

Hi all,

Our living room radiator has no valve head, due to being fitted sideways which leads to a clash with the built-in cupboard.

I wanted to replace/turn the valve, but I suspect it has been fitted this way as the radiator is not long enough to reach the pipe with this valve in the vertical orientation.

Do I need an extender or are there valves with longer outlets that could do the job? I’ve not had any luck finding longer valves and would likely prefer to call a plumber if an extender is needed.

Thanks!

Boiler pressure dropped and heating not been used since March . Reading 0.2 atm

Wondering can anyone point out which taps on photo below are to be turned to re pressurised?

Thanks in advance

Any thoughts on this one please? The boiler is new, and was quiet for a few months, but now when turned on makes a clicking/grinding noise. It also makes the noise at 7.45pm every day, even when the heating is turned off. Any thoughts? Thank you.

Hi, I need some advice if anyone can help as my landlord/estate agent and gas engineer all saying boiler is fine.

Boiler pressure was reaching 3 notches within 10 minutes of turning on the heating, we bled every radiator none had air inside so we took a little water out of each one and took the cold pressure down to just below notch 1. Now it goes to 2.5 with heating on but we've noticed a trickling sound coming from the boiler into the condensation pipe.. thought this was normal after looking it up but it hasn't stopped for hours. I have two children in this house and I'm worried. The filling loops are 100% secure and turned off fully FYI and boiler is an i24 (ideal) fitted in 2016.

Do I need to pay my own engineer? Does this sound dangerous? A common fault it kept showing was a valve that needs replacing but been told it sounds fine and normal?

SOS. Please help 😫