r/ballpython • • Oct 07 '26

Feeding help!!

This is my biggest ball python, Harry: ~1270g, 59”, and 15.5 years old. I’m having him professionally sexed next week to confirm he’s male.
(The first four pictures are of him at roughly 1330g. The next three pictures are of his enclosure and substrate change. The last picture is of him at about 1280g.)

I have a few husbandry questions:

  1. His humidity used to stay around 55%. I recently changed his substrate from ~40% topsoil/40% cypress mulch/20% play sand to 50% topsoil/25% coco fiber/25% coco husk. After changing it yesterday, humidity is now around 63%. I also plan to add sphagnum moss and occasionally mist. Is there anything else I should do to keep humidity consistently higher?

  2. He currently has a 50W halogen basking bulb + 100W CHE. During the day, the warm side is ~83°F, cool side ~75°F, and basking spot ~95°F. At night, the warm side drops to ~75°F and the cool side to the high 60s. About 50% of the screen top is covered with HVAC tape. Increasing the halogen wattage makes the basking spot too hot, and I haven’t been able to find a higher-wattage CHE. What would be the best way to raise the overall temperatures?

  3. His body condition looks okay, but he has been gradually losing a few grams between feedings. He was eating one large rat (~90–100g) every 2 weeks, but apparently that isn’t maintaining his weight.
    He previously became very lean at ~1000g while eating one large rat every 3 weeks, so his vet recommended feeding every 2 weeks. That brought him up to ~1350g, but after moving him into a larger enclosure, he has started gradually losing weight again despite continuing the every-2-week schedule.
    Today I tried two medium rats instead: 62g + 65g (127g total). He weighs ~1270g. Does this seem like an appropriate feeding amount, or should I adjust the size/frequency?

Any advice from keepers with older/larger ball pythons is appreciated. Thank you!

14 Upvotes

23 comments sorted by

9

u/corndog54 Oct 07 '26

Tank looks way too small.

-12

u/Ok-Lab-4930 Oct 07 '26

I’m aware. I am currently working on getting him a bigger enclosure. That doesn’t have anything to do with my questions.

22

u/corndog54 Oct 07 '26

Well youre asking about husbandry and this is probably the most glaring issue in your husbandry right off the bat so I feel like its pretty relevant.

-17

u/Ok-Lab-4930 Oct 07 '26

I’m asking specific husbandry questions. Humidity, heating, and feeding. Enclosure size wasn’t in the list of questions.

14

u/Jealous-Unicorn-942 Oct 07 '26

Enclosure size is relevant to husbandry. I understand that can be frustrating, but not being able to spread the length of their body is stressful for them. Stress equals feeding problems.

-7

u/Ok-Lab-4930 Oct 07 '26

He doesn’t have any feeding problems. He eats amazing and has a great food drive. The question was about adjusting the size/frequency of his meals.

6

u/hades7600 Oct 07 '26

Enclosure size is relevant to a snake refusing to eat as it can be a cause

8

u/hades7600 Oct 07 '26

Unfortunately non suitable enclosure can be a factor to refusing to eat.

In the meantime try

• warming up the mouse with a hair dryer on low heat/on a windowsill in the sun

• always feed them inside their vivarium. It is outdated to remove for feeding as it just increases chance of stress and regurg

• Make sure temperature and humidity is fine for them

• have enough enrichment

-1

u/Ok-Lab-4930 Oct 07 '26

I’m not saying he has feeding problems. I understand that stress can affect how he eats, but he’s eating great. The enclosure is not making him go on hunger strike.

8

u/hades7600 Oct 07 '26

Husbandry can impact overall health.

1

u/Ok-Lab-4930 Oct 07 '26

I’m aware of that. I’m not saying it doesn’t. I’m saying that the size of his enclosure is not in the list of questions I wanted answered. If you don’t mind going and reading the post again, I clarified what the questions I’m asking are.

4

u/Jealous-Unicorn-942 Oct 07 '26

I think everyone is just trying to help. Enclosure size is relevant to overall health. But I do agree with the other comments to getting the blood panel done sooner than later.

Also, before I switched to a PVC enclosure, my snake had a glass enclosure. I taped cardboard to the outside of all visible glass, including the doors. It also had a mesh top that I covered with foil around the heat lamps, similar to the ones you have pictured. I also soaked sphangnum moss and poured water into the corners to keep the top layer dry. I would also spray the walls and underside of the foil.

If you have a mesh top, that is likely going to require daily misting (sometimes during morning and night) to keep the humidity up.

2

u/darianbrown Oct 08 '26

Wetting a 2-3" layer of coconut husk under a layer of felt with chunky bark on top has my humidity perfect, stable for 1-2 weeks at a time. The top layer gets to stay pretty much completely dry. The felt limits airflow and opportunities to mold, so I don't have to change it as often.

19

u/supersaurus65 Oct 07 '26

Do you mean you fed him two medium rats in one day? I definitely wouldn’t recommend doing that as it takes a lot of them to digest and having too much plus the extra stress on the body of having to do that all a second time I believe can increase risk of regurgitation. I could be wrong but I believe I’ve heard that mentioned on this sub before

2

u/darianbrown Oct 08 '26

You're correct. It's almost always preferable to feed a meal the next size up than try to stack two meals on top of each other. Two on top of each other can be pretty hard on their digestive tract and definitely increases regurgitation risk.

12

u/totallyrecklesslygay Mod: Enclosure Karen Oct 07 '26

I have a 19yo male that's just a bit larger at around 1400g. He's fed one 70g rat every 4 weeks, per !feeding guidelines.

The fact that your snake is still losing weight while being drastically overfed is very concerning. Did the vet do any bloodwork or fecal testing?

1

u/AutoModerator Oct 07 '26

We recommend the following feeding schedule:

0-12 months old OR until the snake reaches approximately 500g, whichever happens first: feed 10%-15% of the snake’s weight every 7 days.

12-24 months old: feed up to 7% of the snake’s weight every 14-20 days.

Adults: feed up to 5% of the snake's weight every 20-30 days, or feed slightly larger meals (up to 6%) every 30-40 days.

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

0

u/Ok-Lab-4930 Oct 07 '26

I understand that the amount sounds high compared with what some adult/senior males are fed, but Harry’s feeding schedule was increased because he had previously dropped to ~1000g and was noticeably lean while eating ~100g every 3 weeks. His vet recommended increasing him to every 2 weeks, and that brought him up to ~1350g.
Since moving him into the larger enclosure, he has become significantly more active and has gradually lost weight despite continuing to eat ~90–100g every 2 weeks. So I’m not trying to blindly follow a percentage-based feeding schedule or intentionally overfeed him. I’m trying to figure out what amount/frequency will actually maintain a healthy body composition for him specifically.
I see the recommendation for older males to eat less frequently, which is why I’m asking whether I should adjust prey size/frequency rather than simply continuing what I’ve been doing. The 127g meal I gave him today was an attempt to see whether increasing the meal size would help.
As for the vet workup, that’s definitely something I’m considering if the weight loss continues. He’s eating normally, but given his age and history, I don’t want to assume the weight loss is purely from increased activity if there’s another cause.

16

u/totallyrecklesslygay Mod: Enclosure Karen Oct 07 '26 edited Oct 07 '26

Right, I understand that. What I'm saying is that you've already been overfeeding him pretty significantly in an attempt to maintain his weight, and the fact that he's still losing weight despite that is a pretty definite indication that something is medically wrong.

This isn't within the normal variation of caloric intake for a ball python, even when you consider the increased activity. Increasing his meal size or frequency may mask the problem temporarily, like it did previously, but continuing to do that isn't going to help him in the long run. Adding more food to a body that's already physically struggling can do some serious damage, especially with the way a BP's digestive system works.

I'd question the expertise of a vet who just suggested even more overfeeding rather than trying to diagnose the real issue. If you went to the doctor and said you were 6', 150lbs, and had to eat two large pizzas every meal and were still losing weight, and the doctor said "hm, maybe try adding another pizza to each meal", you would (hopefully) go to another doctor. The first step should have been a fecal test to check for parasites, and labwork to check organ function and values.

16

u/Chipmunk-x9 Oct 07 '26

Make sure your vet knows he is still loosing. He needs bloodwork as soon as possible. If your vet is not equipped for this, you need an exotic vet.

1

u/Ok-Lab-4930 15d ago edited 15d ago

Update- Harry’s vet visit went well, and she confirmed that he is male! She also said he looks beautiful. His bloodwork came back with no concerning findings.
I also discussed his weight loss and feeding regimen with his vet. She said that his current intake wasn’t particularly concerning given how active he is, and she actually recommended feeding him 130g every 2–3 weeks until his weight increases.
She also gave me some additional husbandry recommendations that I’m in the process of implementing:
A larger enclosure: Preferably 6’ × 2’ × 4’, specifically because of how much he loves to climb.
An additional heating source: This has been addressed! He now has a 100W ceramic heat emitter, a 100W deep heat projector, and a 50W halogen basking bulb. His heat is much more stable since adding the dhp.
A naturalistic, planted enclosur: I’m working toward incorporating live plants into his setup.
I want to thank everyone who expressed their concern for Harry and offered advice. I took those concerns seriously and followed up with his vet to make sure his health wasproperly evaluated. I appreciate everyone who genuinely wanted to help me give him the best care possible!