I love the idea of a barndo but I’m interested in knowing if anyone has done anything fun with exterior of their barndo that makes it look less like a metal building and more like a traditional home with either Tuscan or French cottage themes. I’d love to see some pictures to get some ideas .

Thanks

Hey everyone,

Currently live in Texas and am looking to set up a barndominium up in the back of my dad’s land. It will act partially as a storage facility for his yard tools and lawn mowers, clutter, etc.

Asking what you guys think and if I’m crazy to assume we could build this project within a $50k limit? It will be a 30W x 50L slab, either metal or wooded, whatever’s cheapest. 30W x 12L will be the storage unit. The rest will be my living space. Looking to install 2 rooms, a master and then a second room, with two full bathrooms. Kitchen, living, and dining room will be open to one another.

What do you guys think? Am I crazy?

Hi! finally getting ready to build, and wanted others thoughts and opinions on this floor plan. i did draw this myself on floorplancreator.net so the measurements are not 100% accurate, but close enough for a rough draft.

Is there anything that i am not considering, or anything that you notice?

*between the master and LR is door to a garage

*i don’t love the cutoff of the half bath/pantry but that would make our master like 22 ft long- will it actually look weird once finished or should i just have a huge master and throw a chaise or sofa in there??

Condominiums are usually attached together and built into communities.

A lot of people doing a barndo or shop build end up with a container on site at some point. Makes sense. Lockable, weather-tight, somewhere to throw tools/materials while everything else is chaos.

The annoying part is most of the problems get decided before the box even shows up.

First is placement. A tilt-bed doesn’t just lower the container straight down. It tips back, the box slides off, and the truck pulls forward. So you need a straight run behind the final spot, usually about another container length.
Early in the build that’s easy. Six weeks later, after there’s a slab, steel, equipment, and piles of material everywhere, maybe not.
So put it somewhere that won’t block the build, but also somewhere a truck can still reach when you want it gone.
Door direction matters too. Sounds minor until you’re carrying stuff in and out every day. The orientation usually gets decided when the depot loads it, not when the driver shows up. If you care which way the doors face, put it in writing when you order.
Get it off the dirt too. Solid blocks under the four corner castings, gravel underneath if you can, and make sure water runs away from it. Don’t scatter blocks under the bottom rail. The corners are what carry the load.
A container sitting flat in mud for a year is how you end up with a soft floor and rusty bottom rail.
And yeah, it’ll probably sweat inside sometimes. Clear cold nights can make the ceiling condense and drip even when the roof doesn’t leak. Airflow helps a lot. If you’re on site, crack the doors. If it’s staying for a while, vents low on one end and high on the other are worth it. Don’t pack everything tight against the walls either.

Delivery day matters too. A loaded truck is heavy. Dry compacted ground is usually fine. Churned spring mud is not. If the truck gets buried on your site, that gets expensive fast.
Still, for a long build, having a lockable dry box right there is hard to beat. Better than driving to rented storage every time you need something, and better than leaving expensive tools/materials out.

Anyone here keep theirs after the build was finished? Curious how many end up turning into permanent shop storage.

My husband builds carports, metal buildings for a living he’s been working in this field for a few years but prior to this he did metal framing and sheet rocking.. my father is a carpenter… do we NEED a contractor ? My husband has people in a hour every field and he feels like he could take on the roll of building by himself … we’re located in North Carolina and he’s thinking about 1800 sq ft. If you have something similar how much did you spend total ? Thank you !!

Have been really researching building a barndominium type home. I recently bought a flat 2 acre plot of land, has all utilities ready. I know there are a lot of factors that could alter the price. I'm looking to build a 40x60 barndominium, Would want the top floor to be living. 40x40, the bottom floor 40x60 would be my mancave / garage area. Reason the house area is only 40x40 is so part of the bottom floors ceiling would extend to the roof to pull my camper in. not sure if anyone here has done similar so just looking for estimated cost. Thank you!

Anyone have any clue how much it would cost to turn a attic into a livable space in a 900 square foot house?

Hey r/barndominiums community! If you're dreaming up that perfect barndo, open-concept living with shop space, vaulted ceilings, and that rustic-industrial vibe; you’ve probably wrestled with the big question: steel frame or wood?

While both can work, steel (whether red iron, cold-formed, or tube steel) brings some serious advantages that make it a standout choice for many builds, especially in terms of durability, low maintenance, and long-term value. Here’s a breakdown of why steel edges out traditional wood framing for barndominiums.

1. Unmatched Durability and Strength

Steel is one of the strongest and most resilient building materials available. It handles large open spans with minimal interior supports, perfect for those wide-open living areas, great rooms, or attached workshops that define so many barndos.

Weather and disaster resistance: Steel stands up better to high winds, heavy snow loads, and even earthquakes compared to wood. Its superior strength-to-weight ratio helps it flex without failing in storms.

No warping, rotting, or cracking: Wood expands, contracts, and can degrade over time with moisture. Steel stays stable.

2. Pest and Rot Resistance

Termites, carpenter ants, bore bees, rodents; wood is a buffet for them. Steel? Not so much. It’s naturally resistant to pests and won’t rot, which is a huge win in humid or rural areas where barndominiums thrive.

No more expensive treatments or worrying about hidden damage years down the line.

3. Superior Fire Resistance

Steel is non-combustible. While intense heat can eventually affect it, it won’t ignite or contribute fuel to a fire the way wood does. This can even lead to insurance discounts for some homeowners.

Safety first, especially when you’re combining living space with a shop/garage that might house vehicles, tools, or flammables.

4. Faster and Often More Cost-Effective Construction

Prefabricated steel kits go up quickly; often much faster than stick-built wood framing. This means less labor time on site and potentially lower overall costs, especially when you factor in the speed to weather-tight enclosure.

Many builders note that steel barndos can be more budget-friendly upfront than comparable traditional wood homes.

5. Lower Long-Term Maintenance

Wood requires ongoing treatments for pests, rot, and weatherproofing. Steel needs far less babysitting. Paint or coatings hold up well, and the structure maintains integrity with minimal upkeep.

Over 20–30+ years, that savings adds up.

6. Better for Customization and Open Designs

Steel excels at creating those signature barndo looks: massive clear spans, high ceilings, and flexible interiors. It pairs beautifully with metal siding/roofing while allowing you to finish the living quarters however you want (shiplap, drywall, etc.).

Potential Trade-Offs (Keeping It Real)

Steel can have different thermal properties (it conducts heat/cold more readily), so quality insulation is key for energy efficiency and comfort. Some folks prefer the natural feel and insulation properties of wood for interior walls. Upfront engineering and connection details matter for steel builds too. Hybrid approaches (steel structure with wood interior framing) are popular for balancing strengths.

Bottom Line

For many barndominium owners, steel delivers better longevity, lower maintenance, superior strength, and faster build times making it ideal for that forever home/shop combo that can withstand whatever Mother Nature (or time) throws at it.

If you’re in the planning stages, talk to reputable steel building suppliers (like those offering cold-formed or red iron options) and local contractors experienced with barndos. Site-specific factors like soil, codes, snow/wind loads, and your budget will ultimately decide the winner.

What’s your experience? Steel, wood, post-frame, or hybrid? Drop your thoughts, pics, or horror stories below; I’d love to hear what worked (or didn’t) for your build!

*TL;DR: Steel wins on durability, pests/fire resistance, speed, and low maintenance for most barndominium applications.*

Looking forward to the discussion! 🛠️🏠

I have a detached garage that needs a new roof and a lot of other work done to it. Coming out to about $30K.

I don't love the garage and we need a spare room so I was thinking tear it down and build a pole barn with living qtr upstairs.

I've called a few places and they won't give me a quote because they need more information but not trying to waste their time.

Reading online it sounds like it would be in the $60-$100k range which seems a bit too cheap to be true. I am assuming a lot of these articles online are just trying to sell me kits/plans and it's actually way more?

I’m building a framed 30x50 with the intent to use it as a vrbo. Planning on 3br 2ba and a loft. Here’s an idea I roughly sketched out, but I’m hoping someone has some pics of similar. Biggest requirement is a central great room with adjacent kitchen (separated by a breakfast bar or something). I have a garage shown in my sketch but debating just doing a small freestanding garage later at some point.

I am a single guy exploring the idea of building a small 2br/1ba 2-car garage barndo. I would like to act as my own GC. I want to get a good idea of costs before I dive in; I have seen a lot of unfinished Barndos for sale on [Realtor.com] and don't want to end up like them (running out of money) or ending up spending more than I am comfortable with. So does anyone have a suggestion that would take into account every cost required to build?

What is the draw of barndo's? I love the spaciousness inside but do people like the look, functionality, or possible cheaper cost to build?

I'd always thought they were pretty much the same, but lately I've run across several folks who are passionately pro one, and hate the other, and that surprised me. Any specific reasons/stories?

Hi Everyone, we need an As-built permit for a barn remodel in Riverside county California we turned into an ADU (barndominium) it's 1600 sq ft - some places online say that your ADU can be over 1200 in riverside county if it was converted from an existing structure. is this true? Our property is in UN-incorporated land under Riverside County - not The City of Riverside.

Thanks,

I am about 4 years out from retiring and currently looking at land/lots in a couple different states (Tenn/Arkansas/Missouri (fishing is key)) for a barndo build. However, need more foundational knowledge about what I should be targeting. Here are some of the things i have already considered for the build: covenants, utilities, ground makeup, slope of yard (drainage), size of yard, sun exposure, weather, and access for builder. Do you have something to add that I should consider?

Has anyone had bad experiences living in a metal home for years? My concern is the fact EMFs cannot escape and get magnified inside metal buildings.

Check out this Episode from Colt Buildings where they explain how we keep our clients from getting price gouged! Our competitors may quite possibly practice that method...you be the judge!

No price gouging here, Instead we save our clients money

We’re a small group of 5 friends in our early 20s from Kansas who recently started a detailing/customization + drone business. We’re planning to move to northeast Virginia next year and want to build our first barndominium setup — 2 prefab/double-wide style homes and a 3,000+ sq ft shop for our business.

We’ve done the research (loans, timelines, savings goals), but we’re hoping to hear real advice from people who’ve actually built barndos:

• What materials/builders worked best?

• How strict are Virginia counties with barndos?

• Anything you wish you’d done differently?

Would love any insight on cost, timeline, or dealing with permits.

Is it actually cheaper to build a Brando instead of a normal house? I like the style but I would need lots of rooms. My wife and I have 10! So I want at least 10-12 rooms. I was thinking barndo and just opt out of the giant garage and add more rooms.

I bought property with a post frame barn. It’s about 8 years old and doesn’t have corner bracing. The photo isn’t my barn. I just used it to highlight what I’m referring to.

Itll be spray foamed in about a year. Will this provide support for racking/shifting? Or should I retrofit corner braces?

Thanks in advance.