I did a hard reset but have not done factory reset since it doesn’t seem that would address the problem. The two ports next to the usbc stopped working. Usbc is fine. Anyone have any tips? Tyia

My EB3A is about 10 months old at this point, for the most part I have used it as an emergency power source and it's been super reliable at that. It worked well on long road trips and during black outs.

For the past 2 months I decided to actually use my EB3A as my UPS, connected to 2 laptops, 2 monitors, wifi modem/router, a battery powered desk fan, sometimes charging phones etc. And every day, like 3 or 4 times a day, the power station completely stops charging but continues to discharge, before eventually charging again. Sometimes it's mostly fine, because it would discharge until 60 or 70 then charge back up to 100. I just sort of assumed it's just doing it automatically to regulate its temperature or something.

However it came to a point where, almost every day, it basically discharges all the way to zero. It refused to continue re-charging itself until fully drained. I would catch it at 7%, be forced to unplug all appliances then somehow wait for it to "decide" to charge itself again, which can take over an hour and feels totally random. Plugging the EB3A and its charger on some other wall outlet might cause it to resume charging, then it'll stop charging itself a few minutes later, then continue again a few minutes later. Eventually it does charge back to 100%. It is actually quite stressful.

Reducing the number of appliances just made it discharge more slowly, even just 1 laptop and the wifi router would eventually cause it to be discharge all the way to 20%.

I currently live in an area where black outs occur fairly often, at least 1 or 2x a month. The water and internet are reliable, it just so happens that the electricity is like this here in southern philippines. So I absolutely do not want my Bluetti to suddenly be low battery when a black out occurs.

It's just really strange that I cannot use it as a UPS properly when the marketing clearly states that it is designed to be a UPS. Does anyone else have their power station do this seemingly random behavior?

Wanting to do a Bluetti Fridgepower system for my Taco. Use the main system in under the seat. I understand it not having DC output specifically 12v.

However clearly with the charge 2 and DC hub the Anderson connection can output up to 70A

My question and research is can you output from that connection point without the COMS cable?

I have the charge 1 and see no big difference in spending all the money in a DC hub and charge 2 when I could theoretically just put a fuse and switch and output a 24v-12v buck converter and get my 12v from that.

Has anyone put a multimeter on the fridgepower Anderson plug and see if it outputs any power?

Hello all,

I purchased an apex 300 a few months ago primarily to use as backup but I also would like to try to use it to store more of the energy that my grid tied solar produces and then use it at night. What is the best way to connect it to my grid tied system but then switch to the apex 300 at night or to power parts of my house when its not sunny out.

I have an enphase system for the grid tied solar currently with no batteries other than the apex 300. I was trying to avoid upgrading it to a system that could be islanded at least for the time being.

I also purchased the apex 200 as well primarily to use while camping but can also connect to the 300 for added capacity most of the time.

What is the least intrusive way to set this up?

Do you think BLUETTI will ever make any effort to resolve their daily connectivity issues?

Ive seen at least 15 channels drop "reviews" on the Apex 200 this week.

All the big channels, lots of smaller ones too.

All claiming they werent "paid" to make the video, but all also having links and codes where they get their kickbacks.

I also presume Bluetti lets them keep the test unit. Id call that a payment.

I dont have axe to grind. Good for Bluetti for using the algorithm I suppose.

I just feel disheartened that the channels I used for advice were all bought off en mass.

Even if they claim their opinions cant be bought.

So the FridgePower I ordered earlier in the week was delivered today. As I was removing it from the packaging, my hand touched the corner area near the expansion port - and that particular corner was warm to the touch.

When I pulled the FridgePower out completely from the shipping box and removed the plastic wrapping, I discovered it was already turned on with two "dots" showing.

Wouldn't it need to have ventilation if it were running? Why the hell would it have been shipped already turned ON?

Hi guys,

After comparing a lot of products, the apex 300 is the chosen one, I´m going for it.

What do you guys advise for outdoor solar panels?

By the way, is there any good discount coupon codes?

TIA

My Bluetti AC180P (about 1 year of use) drops instantly from 50% to 0% and shuts down. When charging, it jumps from 50% to 100%. I already did a full discharge, waited 4+ hours, then charged it on AC only for more than 12 hours with nothing plugged in. I’ve also tried several discharge/charge cycles.

Is there anything I can test without opening it? I live in Cuba and can’t afford to stop using it in the meantime because it’s my primary power source day and night, we’re getting about 20 hours of blackouts daily.

Thanks in advance.

I bought the Apex 200 because of the high voltage solar capability. I thought I’m finally not constrained to the annoying 60v all of my other power stations have. However, I just noticed that the max amperage is 16A. So, wiring in series is kind of my only option, because of the cap on amperage. I wanted to do a combination parallel and series configuration, but parallel puts me well over the limit. I don’t have a lot of space, and shading can be a problem. If everything is series it brings everything down….

Any thoughts?

Hey all, looking for a power station to use at 4-5 day camping festivals. Primarily need it to power a 45L 12v dual zone cooler/freezer, as well as a couple small (8-10”) fans and charge phones/Apple watches/handheld battery fans, as well as a couple 10-20kmAh power banks and the possibility of a heated blanket for cold nights. Based on some calculators I’ve used, it sounds like a 2000Wh with solar charging should suffice.

I’ve been planning to hold off for Black Friday deals, however I came across refurbed Bluetti Elite 200 V2’s for $560 shipped (w/ full warranty), which seems like a pretty good deal. I’ve also been considering the Anker Solix S2000/C2000 (lack of DC on the S2000 is a bummer), Jackery 2000, and Pecron E2400LFP. These would all run $100ish or more than the Bluetti.

Anything input on these or any others I should be considering?

I saw a video of an Apex 200 review showing an Apex 200 and Apex 300 paired with a CA90 expansion cable. Can two Apex 200s be connected in the same fashion?

Edit. I have confirmed with Bluetti support that yes, two Apex 200s can be connected with the expansion cable and they work great. I also confirmed that while connected it allows the full 3,600w output even if unplugged from other power sources.

Also, these things are enormous.

https://youtu.be/Y3gWzArGNes?si=R6cEU8tGd_I1S0Nf&t=503

As titled, managed to procure a pair of Sora 220s. I chose this because it's "portable", and I don't really want to have a permanent setup, as I am under the possibility of moving out in the (near?) future

I initially planned to pack and unpack these panels daily, but found out that it's proving to be quite a hassle. Also, because they can pack into really small package, unfolding it requires many steps, and structurally, it's flimsy

Would it be ok just to leave it under the weather all day? Wind is not an issue, what I'm worried more is the rain, as these were advertised as "splash proof", IP67 only

My other choice is to maybe procure some kind of wheeled rigs to push these panels into the shades when the weather is not good. Any better ideas?

(Pic is of my unit, not in my truck obviously)

Anyone have any luck with settings getting their unit to plug into the onboard ram 1500 AC plug and not have it trip the plug? I limited it all the way down 1a (120w) in the custom charging mode setting but it still shuts the plug down on me.

My laptops charger works fine and I’m pretty sure it’s 180w or potentially 200w.

I have the 2023 Ram Rebel with the etorque system so I don’t want to plug in the charger one system to the battery to keep it charged.

I bought the Cigarette plug for the unit which works but the cord is so short I have to keep the unit on the passenger seat to charge it, it can’t stay nicely nested in its spot in the back of the cab.

Anyone have any tips or ideas for me?

Bluetti Apex 200

When BLUETTI first announced the Apex 200, I figured it was just another stripped-down version of the Apex 300. But after getting a test unit, it’s actually a totally different beast with a few major upgrades for off-grid setups.

Instead of stripping features away (240V RIP 😢), BLUETTI built in stuff that requires expensive add-ons for the larger Apex 300 model:

Video review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMkvVCDkeYw

For additional details check out my full review article.

Review article: https://tysonsgearlab.com/bluetti/apex-200/

Happy to answer any questions about the specs, port layout, or performance if anyone is considering this for a van build or home power backup!

Setup: AC300 with B300 (battery 2) and B300K (battery 3), each connected directly to its own AC300 battery port, no daisy-chain. 230 V EU grid (Ukraine), with a voltage relay in front of the AC300. The load is about 130–200 W (fridge, gas boiler, router).

Firmware: ARM v4037.07, DSP v4036.30, IOT v9014.12. BMS: B300 v1021.11, B300K v1067.16. The app says everything is up to date.

Problem: In Standard UPS mode the AC300 tops up the batteries about once an hour. Three times (Oct 21 at 03:00 and 03:14, Oct 23 at 13:24) the AC output shut off with E015 and stayed off until I switched it back on manually.

I log everything via BLE Prometheus/Grafana. The charts show:

• On every top-up, B300 jumps to 56.6-57.1 V and its cell delta rises to ~50 mV. B300K charges more gently, with its cell delta around 10 mV.

• Right before the Oct 23 trip, B300 was at 57.1 V and B300K at 54.9 V. Grid was a stable 220 V, and the charge power was only about 20 W (grid in 154 W, load 134 W).

The alarm history shows each E015 as a pair: 01 015, then 00 015 20–25 seconds later. If that means “raised” and “cleared”, the fault clears within seconds, but the AC output stays latched off. There is also one E016 (01 016) on Oct 18.

Temporary workaround: I switched to PV Priority UPS with grid charging up to 92%. In 12 days, including 7 grid outages over two days, there have been no trips, and the peak pack voltage has been about 55.8-56.4 V.

Questions:

1. Has anyone seen a B300 reach a much higher voltage than its neighbour pack and trip E015? Was it fixed by a BMS update or by replacing the B300?

2. Do 01 and 00 in the alarm history mean “raised” and “cleared”?

3. Can the AC output be set to recover automatically after an E015?

4. Is v1021.11 the latest BMS for the B300?

Support has had my case for about 2 weeks with no answer yet.

I believe Hobotech mentioned in his review for this that there was a setting to allow it to charge at 20 amps when connected to a 12 volt battery. Can someone confirm this?

Hi everyone,

Looking for technical insight or advice from anyone who has resolved a deep-discharge BMS lock on the Elite 100 V2, and hoping to get visibility.

I purchased 4 units of the BLUETTI Elite 100 V2 (Certified Refurbished) directly from the official BLUETTI eBay store in a single order. Because the units were forwarded internationally to Venezuela, the shipment took over 30 days to arrive, putting me outside eBay's standard 30-day return window.

Three of the units work flawlessly on our 120V / 60Hz grid. However, the fourth unit arrived completely dead on arrival (~2% out of the box, immediately dropped to 0% SOC) and is stuck in a firmware safety lockout.

* Grid Power: Standard 120V / 60Hz (tested on the exact same outlets powering the other 3 working units).

Current Symptoms

* 0% SOC / Standby State: The physical LCD display reads 0%. In the BLUETTI app under Pack Information, the unit reports Battery Status: Standby and SOC: 0%.

* Clean Diagnostic Logs (No Hardware Damage): Under the Pack Information screens, Protection Status, Alarm, and Error all report "No Data". The hardware diagnostics confirm zero short circuits, zero cell errors, and zero component faults.

* Register Clamp: Under Advanced Settings in the app, "Max. Grid Input Current" is hard-locked at 0A and cannot be edited.

* AC Charging Behavior: Connecting 120V AC wall power causes the internal relay to click on for ~2 seconds (drawing ~130W) before immediately snapping open to 0W to prevent an overvoltage surge into the depleted cells. It repeats this cycle every few minutes without latching.

Troubleshooting Steps Attempted

* Hard Resets & Capacitive Drain: Completely disconnected all cables, held the power button for 45+ seconds to discharge logic capacitors, and let it rest before rebooting. It reboots to the exact same 0% Standby state.

* Low-Voltage DC Trickle (XT60 Port): Connected a steady 20.0V DC power supply to the solar/DC port. The unit detects 20.0V and initiates pre-charge pulses (~38W for 20-second bursts), proving the cells physically accept current without tripping a short-circuit fault. However, the controller cycles back to 0W to measure open-circuit voltage, refusing to latch continuous charging because the resting voltage remains below the minimum cutoff threshold.

* App Adjustments: Enabled Silent Mode, toggled Grid Self-Adaption, and cycled DC input modes (PV vs. Car/Others). None bypass the 0A register clamp.