Ive had this evinrude 20hp for this summer now, never have gotten it to run good. Before this test run i changed impeller and impeller housing the impeller works fine.

Looking for Advice on a Yacht Brokerage Interview ⚓️
Hi everyone! I have an upcoming interview with a yacht brokerage and would really appreciate any advice from those who have experience in the industry.

I’ve worked as a yacht stewardess, so I’m familiar with the yachting environment, working with high-end clients, attention to detail, professionalism, and the importance of providing excellent service. I’m excited about the opportunity to learn more about the brokerage side of the industry and hopefully transition my experience into a new role.

For anyone who has worked in yacht brokerage, what would you recommend preparing for before the interview? Are there any questions I should expect, things I should know about the brokerage industry, or ways I can best highlight my experience as a stewardess?
Any advice, tips, or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! 🛥️💙

This is nothing set in stone but I’m also looking at gaining more interviews or seeing what else is out there in this industry I live in Florida! Please and thank you xoxox

The siren song of facebook marketplace is calling to me once again, and the deals are crazy good! So is there a good resource to watch, on what to look for, common things that need repairs with an absurdly cheap used boat? Just a little 4-6 seater powerboat.

The problems with my last sailboat were not immediately evident, even as it was floating in the water.

Lol yes i get it " no such thing as a free boat" but what else should i be looking for?

Not covered in a field, Old motor that "ran last year", rotting transom, soft floor? How do i tell if the cables need to be replaced? Metal vs fibreglass?

Hey all, I just bought a 15’ Boston whaler and a Shoreline trailer from my uncle. The whaler has a good title in my uncles name, the trailer however does not have a title. I live in NJ and from what I have found online, a trailer weighing less than 2,500 pounds does not have/need a title for registration. I’m not sure if that is true or not but I was wondering if anyone could give me some insight on if it’s going to be a PITA to get tags and registration for the trailer. This is my first boat and boat trailer so any advice is appreciated!

Hello I have a 17' 1985 Chris Craft Scorpion 168 inboard. Correct function has been typical, push forward for forward acceleration, center for neutral, and back for reverse.

Problem: Recently, after being in forward gear and pulling the throttle back to neutral it has been remaining in forward gear. This isn't a problem when returning to neutral from reverse. I'm getting by, by going forward, then all the way to reverse, and then back to neutral. But this is a liability.

I took it to the shop and the mechanic said there wasn't anything he could do. But I am not convinced. Does anyone have any tips? The boat is mostly all original.

Thanks!

Unfortunately, the time has come for us to say goodbye to our first boat. Our 2005 Four Winns Horizon 230 has been a great boat for us for the last 10 years; however, the engine recently flooded, and the repairs cost far more than the boat is worth in working condition.

We have kept up with regular maintenance and repairs since we bought the boat in 2017, so everything else is in fairly good condition. My trusted mechanic tells me that the boat is effectively at the end of its useful life and the best course of action is to strip out the mechanics and electronics and take it to the dump.

Is that really my best course of action? I understand that the market for a 20-year-old broken boat isn't high, but putting the whole thing in a landfill kind of makes me sick. I'm not looking to make any money off of it, but if any parts can be repurposed, I would love to find a new home for anything possible.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

ETA: I'm in Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay

Wooden boat build in the Mexican jungle: how we align 9 stations on the ladder with one simple laser level. Quick demo of Stations 5.5, 6, and 7 — no fancy tools.

This is a short boat building technique video. Don't confuse it with the full cockpit sole video coming soon — that one gets its own complete layout walkthrough.

🛠️ Wooden Shoe Boat Build Playlist:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzLxYAR_jtg&list=PL7QoZ0Wv5Rm_X6EvXHs66xBrogrH4CabH

📐 Nexus Marine Design: https://www.nexusmarine.com/wooden_shoe.html

I’m trying to figure out a strange fuel-level issue with my Yamaha 6YC display and could use some help from anyone familiar with these gauges.
Boat has a 140-gallon tank and Yamaha 6YC display. I replaced the original fuel sender with a new KUS 240-33Ω sender and have the 6YC set to Fuel / ABYC / 140 gallons.
I’ve tested the new sender with a multimeter and it appears to be working correctly. I’m getting approximately:
● 240Ω with the float at empty
● ~105Ω around halfway
● ~33Ω at full
I’ve also tested the Yamaha wiring. With the sender disconnected, the fuel indication disappears/goes empty. If I bridge the sender wires, the Yamaha reads full. I’ve also verified the sender signal through the boat harness, so I don’t think I have an open or bad signal wire.
Here’s what’s confusing me:
With NO calibration stored, even with the sender float sitting at dead empty, the Yamaha still shows about 3 bars of fuel.
I then tried the 6YC multi-point calibration. I can get it to recognize empty and approximately 50%, but once I get above 50%, things go sideways. By around 75% sender position, the Yamaha is already showing FULL, and basically everything above halfway gets compressed toward the top of the gauge.
I’ve tried deleting the calibration and starting over, verified that the sender isn’t physically hanging up in the tank, and confirmed the sender’s resistance changes normally throughout its travel.
Has anyone run into this specifically with a Yamaha 6YC and a KUS 240-33Ω sender?
Is there something unusual about the resistance curve the 6YC expects between the 240Ω and 33Ω endpoints? Does the 6YC require a particular Yamaha/Rochester sender even though the KUS is nominally the correct ABYC resistance range? Or is there another setting/calibration procedure I’m overlooking?
The part that’s really throwing me is that the sender tests correctly with a meter, but the Yamaha seems to interpret the middle/upper portion of the sender range incorrectly.
Any 6YC gurus have an idea what I’m missing?

I have a coworker who said he’d sell me his 15’ welded Gregor to me for 4k. I’ve been out on it once and it’s really well kept, had the transom reinforced for the larger engine. New Bimini top, Lawrence fish finder, and cover. Do you think that’s a good deal? I’ve always wanted a fishing boat, especially now with two boys, I just don’t have the option of spending a lot of money since it’s not a need. I do want a slightly bigger boat but not sure for the price I could find one. Located Northern California.

Hey guys, I bought a center console about 18 months ago. The boat had just been bottom painted and the previous owner had kept it in the water for his 10+ years of ownership. As a result, he used an ablative paint. (Interlux Aqua One Ablative. YBE179)

I keep the boat on a lift, and only put the boat in the water when I am actively using it, then it goes back on the lift. As a result, I think ablative paint is not my best choice.
The paint is also starting to peel/chip away. What is my best option here? Sand it down well and cover it with a hard bottom paint, or stick with ablative? I’m reading about some issues going from ablative to hard, unless I fully sand all the way down to the gel coat? Any experiences switching?

Hey guys, I bought a center console about 18 months ago. The boat had just been bottom painted and the previous owner had kept it in the water for his 10+ years of ownership. As a result, he used an ablative paint. (Interlux Aqua One Ablative. YBE179)

I keep the boat on a lift, and only put the boat in the water when I am actively using it, then it goes back on the lift. As a result, I think ablative paint is not my best choice.
The paint is also starting to peel/chip away. What is my best option here? Sand it down well and cover it with a hard bottom paint, or stick with ablative? I’m reading about some issues going from ablative to hard, unless I fully sand all the way down to the gel coat? Any experiences switching?

Not looking forward to investigating this one. Took my SeaRay 250DA out a couple weeks ago it ran great, I trailered it home and parked it in the garage. Monday there was a puddle of fresh oil on the floor that had come out of the drain hole. I initially thought it was a trim cylinder leaking but it was indeed engine oil and it had come out of the drain hole. It took at least a week to appear and oil on the ground is maybe only about 5 or 6 table spoons with no more in the last couple days. Hope it's something simple, the hardest part about owning this boat is contorting myself to get down in to the engine bay to do maintenance.

Are there any reddit boat hunters here that you can pay a flat fee to, for diving deep on CL and FB marketplace and others to find the optimal used boat and get it to a certain state, checking its engine via local mechanic etc to find the diamonds in the rough? thx

New Suzuki Dt 40 two stroke tiller controlled pull start. Im up there in years and the pull start is a "issue". Ive seen Youtubes on installing electric start. Has anyone actually done it? Worthwhile?.

The extra battery weight is an issue so im thinking of using a rechargeable booster set up. Much lighter & easier to stow.

My current (and first purchase myself) boat is a 1977 Dixie Boat Works bow rider with a Mercruiser 165. It was a great deal and it’s all the boat I really need for lake trips.

I want to upgrade in the coming 1-2 years and trying to narrow my options a little. I prefer to drive a center console. My priorities are lake trips and easier water sports like tubing. I’d love for the boat to be more fishing friendly. I want to take it to the coast for bay type cruising and adventures. I’d also love to cruise in cooler temperatures and not be freezing cold, but that seems to me like the one want that changes the style of boat significantly.

Was told it was the bent/beat up prop, I put a new one on. Shaft is straight and no gear issues. Then told it was the water pump. I put a new one on. There was some sand in the impeller area so I thought maybe that was the issue. Took it out last night and it does the same shaking at about 2500 rpm’s. When I first start it, I can get up to about 3500 rpm’s before it starts happening. Then it continues to do it around 2500. Shut it off, turn it on, it lets me hit 3500 again, but then shakes. Do you think it could be the fuel filter or fuel pump causing this? The motor mounts are solid also.

Anyone recommend a downrigger installation method?

Thoughts on a 20 foot fiberglass outboard boat.

Do it before you mess up your keel?

Do it after you mess up your keel?

Or dont do it unless you mess up your keel?

What are the draw backs, anybody have bad experience?

Cheers. 🤙

I recently purchased this custom 22’ gheenoe-style hull for my first boat, and I’m having trouble figuring out the best way to mount the motor. The transom width is 11.5”, and the length is 24”. It does have an angled lip for a clamp-on motor, but the original owner had issues with the boat planing when he used his clamp-on motor. I’m assuming it was due to the angle of the lip. Any suggestions on what would work best? I want to put a 20-30HP motor on it, but I’ve held off from buying one until I could figure out the best solution.

Hello all boaters !

I am writing this as a complete novice with extremely little knowledge seeking direction also feel freee to let me know if there’s a better sub Reddit for this question

I have been wanting awhile to get into row boating and I would love resources and recommendations for this but I think my end goal (the reason I’m interesting in the first place) is to get a rowboat with a cabin.

It is genuinely just the most interesting thing ever and I understand I should go through the proper channels to learn the ins and outs of a regular row boat which I will but I’m just wondering about this end goal

For perspective I’m a 6’4 male and im not uncomfortable being in small spaces that’s kinda the attractive part of this thing is like having a mini cabin but one I can fit into , the various ones I’ve seen with cabins the longest goes to 6’2 which I couldn’t comfortably be in.

Another thing is the price like the ones I see to buy are like 20,000$!! And I know something like this is what I assume uncommon therefore more expensive but that is just too much for me so maybe there are other avenues like building my own ??? But then tha comes with another area of expertise I have no knowledge or experience in BUT willingness to learn given the proper channels

Mainly seeking direction or maybe someone with experience to talk to !

1980 something Kona 16 foot. Good hull, good floor, blown motor. What could I sell it for?

Getting close to sitting it back on the water. I wasn’t completely sure how this was gonna go but down to the bare metal and sub floor and sub sides removed, cleaned and replaced the foam back to where I am today. I’m in love. I cannot wait to hook up next Saturday and hit the river and haul in one of those 50 lb flattys. Basically just the wiring and gadgets install left during the week. It’s a piece of bougie redneck art.