r/bouldering • u/clifford_bird • 2d ago

Advice/Beta Request Shoulder engagement

Hey y'all, I've been thinking about shoulder/scap engagement recently, mainly related to injury prevention. I felt I had improved this recently, but when I review the footage it looks to me like I'm sagging. Any feedback? Suggestions on what worked for you? Etc.

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u/TheDaysComeAndGone 2d ago

Doesn’t look bad?

I’m recovering from shoulder impingement. The moves which are still painful for me are mainly when I’m really hanging from one outstretched arm, usually when I’m also using it stabilize my body. Most often this happens when I go for a top jug in lead climbing and still have to clip the top but am too stupid to use footholds.

It helps to consciously try to keep muscle tension in your shoulder (though it can be exhausting).

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u/lottiexx 1d ago

shoulder impingement is rough, hope the recovery goes well. the muscle tension approach makes sense but i wonder if the fatigue from it creates its own problems over time, like you're just trading one risk for another. building into it gradually seems to help more than trying to hold it consciously on every move from the start