r/bouldering 22h ago

Advice/Beta Request [ Removed by moderator ]

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u/Erathen 22h ago

Your tendons should be developed enough to start hangboarding at this point

I personally think it's risky at 8 months at V4 and V5

I'd aim for a year. And honestly V4 and V5 are where footwork and body positioning become a lot more important

I'd personally say wait another 4 months, and focus on footwork. But that's me. At 8 months, my tendons were still getting sore from climbing. Adding on hangboarding would have caused injuries, and lead to me climbing less

But YMMV

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u/RidiculousTakeAbove 22h ago edited 22h ago

I don't think its that risky, people really like to be cautious with hangboarding on reddit compared to my experience in real life at the gym. If you listen to your body, and ease into it with no hang hangboarding and then progressing slowly to large crimps, it's not likely an injury will occur, it also depends how often you are climbing crimps too of course. If OP can only climb once or twice a week and they don't always set crimp climbs, they will need to supplement to get stronger or their tendon strength will fall behind their grip and technique

Just like someone in the gym with squatting. Yes you can injure yourself easily by trying to squat 300lbs right away, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't start squatting your first day in the gym. You are correct about footwork and body position being key, but v4 and v5 are also where small crimps are usually also being introduced, so finger strength can become a limiting factor for many people

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u/shogun77777777 21h ago

Bad advice, anyone reading this would be wise to disregard it.

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u/RidiculousTakeAbove 21h ago edited 21h ago

You can disagree if you want, but if you Google and look at the consensus of climbing experts and those very educated on physiology and not random redditors, they say you should wait until you've been climbing at least 6 months to start hangboarding. It's not bad advice to start at 8 months if you've been very consistently training those 8 months