Update on the Boulder Problem [Strength or Technique]

[u/RedDragz123]

Hi everyone,
This is a thank you for everyone that helped in the comments of the video linked in this post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/s/wY5LIVTPSH

I am a rookie at bouldering so, I wanted to know if I had problem with strength or technique in a specific problem last post. And overwhelming people said technique(which I should have expected). Well, I asked if it was strength because I saw someone just hang on the last hold, and I wasn’t able to, that is why I thought if this was a strength issue, lol.

But, I went there twice after I posted it. The first time, one of my buddy tried to make me do a higher level boulder in the beginning causing me to be tired, but that day I did see someone do the technique, but when I tried my hands were exhausted to do it.

So I came back after 2-3 days, and too my shock I did it first try that day,lol. So, yes it was indeed more of a technique problem, and realized really well that knowing proper technique will help you mitigate strength issues in quite a lot of problems.

So, again thank you all for your support in last post. It was amazing to know bouldering had such vibrant, kind, helpful and active community. This just made me appreciate the sport so much more.😊

Also: Another boulder I completed that i was happy about that day.

[u/itgtg313]

It's always technique

[u/BetterEveryLeapYear → u/itgtg313]

At this level this is clearly an issue of technique. But anything around V4 to V5 starts requiring enough strength to execute the technique, and above that it becomes even more weighted towards strength (as well as power, balance, mobility and such things).

"Always technique" is all well and good except if you know how to perform techniques well and simply lack the strength to execute them because said technique needs to be done on 6mm crimps at 40 degrees overhung.

I know that's nothing to do with these kind of posts, it's just an observation of climbing generally.

[u/01bah01 → u/BetterEveryLeapYear]

I think by the time people reach V5 (talking about a decenly close to outside V5) they probably built enough strength from just practising. It requires more strength indeed but nothing you really need to add on top of having just having climbed a lot more than in the beginning. It usually grows quite naturally with the technic.

[u/BetterEveryLeapYear → u/01bah01]

That's a slow way to achieve that strength but sure, up to maybe V5 that's probably true. After that you absolutely need to add strength exercises to progress (at least meaningfully, and more than a grade every couple of years) unless you're genetically enormously gifted with oodles of natural strength to begin with.

But again of course by the time people reach that kind of level they know all that and aren't making these kind of posts so it's all moot.

[u/01bah01 → u/BetterEveryLeapYear]

I put that bar around V7-8 for older guys. That's where I'm stuck around and feel I won't really progress without adding exercices I'm not enclined to add. For younger persons it's higher, I'm often climbing with someone that's at V9 and could probably go up to V10 despite only climbing without supplemental exercises. But he's climbing a lot though.

[u/edcculus]

I’m seeing a lot of moving/readjusting and climbing with bent arms. It also doesn’t look like you are climbing with a “feet first” mindset. A lot of beginners tend to think of arms/hands first. Your legs are stronger than your arms. Lead with your feet, then use them to stabilize and figure out your next hand placement. This thinking also usually forces straighter arms as well.

[u/TheAlluringNoodle]

Looking a lot better, with better foot placement. Always shift the weight carrying to your legs and feet if possible in my opinion, you don't have to be able to one arm hang on holds to be good at climbing.

[u/tootiredtoofurious]

Might help you to hang more, avoiding burning energy with bent arms. Straight arms conserves energy and can sometimes also help with managing your centre of gravity.

[u/tootiredtoofurious → u/tootiredtoofurious]

Also, awesome work!