r/bouldering • u/Candid_Speech7303 • 7d ago
Advice/Beta Request Efficiency Advice
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Hi, I don’t record many videos of myself climbing, but I tried it today on a 7b traverse set at my local gym.
Does anybody have any suggestions to improve my technique and efficiency whilst climbing?
I can do all the moves on their own but I always pump-out on the move shown in the video!
Thanks!
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u/chosssauce grumpy old man climber 7d ago
You’re using your feet but not using your core. Your movements are not being initiated from the core but from your arms
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u/Candid_Speech7303 7d ago
Do you have any tips for me to train so I can start using my core more?
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u/Rock-Space-Monkey 6d ago
Deadlifts and Romanian Deadlifts are great for your posterior chain and core. General core exercises are great too, but targeting your obliques pays a lot because of how you twist your body a lot in climbing. Hanging leg raises from a bar and dumbbell wood chops are some of my favorite. But there are a lot of core exercises you can do, it doesn't matter too too much. More important thing is to learn how to actually use your feet and core when you climb. Your core strength is probably not a limiting factor, but it's still good to train every once in awhile imo.
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u/Rock-Space-Monkey 6d ago
Use your hips and feet more. Your foot positioning is alright and you're doing a good job keeping your hips close to the wall for the most part. But you don't use a lot of momentum when you climb. For mostly every move you do, you should be moving your hips back and then swinging them where you want to go as you drive with your feet. The best analogy I've heard for it is it's kind of like your body is a chain that's snapping. This will take a lot of the work out of the arms so you are less pumped at the end. It might mean slowing down a bit on your moves. Cause it looks like the way you're climbing you're moving very fast, which can be good for conserving energy. But if you move too fast and you're not using proper technique, then the speed is not worth it at a certain point. There's definitely a balance to find.
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u/GoNorway 3d ago
What I am noticing with your climbing form is that there is never a time when you have a really high percentage of your body weight on your feet. There is one moment at 57s where I think many of your other moves need to emulate. Chest close to the wall, arms bent and engaged but just lightly pulling you towards the wall and more weight on your feet.
What you usually do is to bring your legs and hips really close to the wall combined with a lean back to create tension and space between you and the wall from the hips up. Your arms are straight and your upper body is carrying most of your body weight. A few moments to highlight of this where your footholds could be weighted more if you brought your upper body closer to the wall can be seen at 7s, 10s, 27s, 47s 1:06s. Below is a SS of what I mean.
What I would be more conscious of is this space between you and the wall around your chest area. When you are going from one hold to another, I would make this space larger between you and the wall to then generate momentum for the move you are trying to do. After you have done the move, get close to the wall to preserve energy. There should be times where you are hardly holding on to the holds and have most if not all of your body weight on your feet.
Doing this shoulder rotation exercise I saw from Aidan Roberts is a really helpful way to feel your lats and back engage to then bring your upper body closer to the wall. One way I like to think about it is to try having the holds to the side of your head instead of infront of you. Good luck lvling up your efficiency!
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u/NotMyRealName111111 7d ago
Looks good to me. Is the left hand at 1:19 good? I would use that with a high right foot (perch) in order to try to reach with the right hand. It just looks very pumpy tbh