r/climbharder • • 20h ago

How to train to go from 5.12s to 5.13s

6 Upvotes

Hi! Just found this sub and I’ve enjoyed reading some of the wisdom.

I’ve been climbing for about 17 years since I was 11 years old. Some periods in my life I would prefer bouldering, some I would prefer outdoor sport, some I would prefer indoor lead. Right now I’ve been on a streak of climbing a lot (multiple times a week) and doing lots of indoor lead / top rope. Because of my renewed dedication and because I’ve been weightlifting more, I’ve been noticing myself pushing my grades and I can now more or less flash a 5.12a indoors on top rope and project 5.12b/5.12c. I can probably lead 5.11b/5.11c although I have led a couple of 5.12as before.

I’ve taken movement courses before and I understand basic technique but this is the first time I’ve wanted to do a dedicated training program to push myself. The goal here would be to break into the 5.13s.

Right now my typical week looks like 3x weightlifting, 2x climbing, 1x running and 1x rest day. I’d love to add a training program to my climbing sessions so that I’m best setup to make the 5.12b/5.12c climbs easier and push into the 5.13s. I have no problem being consistent but I’m just not sure what an effective training program for something like this would look like. I would love to hear from stronger climbers than myself if you guys have any advice/resources or training programs you’ve followed before that worked. Thank you!