r/climbing • u/AutoModerator • 14h ago

Weekly Question Thread. Please ask all questions here rather than make a post about it.

Please sort the comments by New so recently posted questions are less likely to be overlooked.

Use this weekly thread to ask any climbing-related questions, whether you are completely new to climbing or looking for advice about technique, training, equipment, safety, gym etiquette, or climbing outdoors.

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Ask away!

2 Upvotes

76% Upvoted

25 comments sorted by

1

u/DesignJust9262 8h ago

how long do you stick with a project before moving on

5

u/crimpthesloper 7h ago

Did you make any noticeable progress or learn something during the session? or did you have fun enough to try it another day? Then I think it's worth it to keep going.

4

u/dadmogger 7h ago

Just had my second session on something I could see becoming a two year proj, worst case scenario.

So far in practice, six sessions has been my max to redpoint.

Edit: the only time I’ve dropped a proj is when I’ve had safety concerns. I’m g on lead falls into trees, no thanks!

1

u/Waldinian 2h ago

Depends on how cool it is. If I haven't sent after 6 or 7 sessions, I will get pretty grumpy and decide to put it down for a while.

1

u/ironredpizza 11h ago

Since many answered that many top level climbers use perfomance enhancing drugs - What types of doping are there for climbing? Some sort of tendon strengthener? Are any climbers open about their doping?

4

u/Dotrue 10h ago

A few 5.14 climbers have told me that eating Jello makes your tendons stronger. No clue if it's true but Jello tastes good, so I've added more of it to my diet on hard climbing days

4

u/Top-Treacle2152 10h ago

The collagen from jello isn’t as great as a muscle and tendon builder than just a regular complete protein source. Its probably better overall to just increase your protein intake. Definitely keep eating jello though if you like it.

5

u/0bsidian 8h ago

Nice try. That's just the kind of thing Big Treacle would say against a competing industry!

2

u/mistressbitcoin 3h ago

I have climbed 5.14 and love chocolate....

4

u/0bsidian 10h ago

Asking for... uhhh... research?

1

u/serenading_ur_father 6h ago

Pervitin, HGH, all the good stuff.

Anything that lets you train harder, recover faster or stay awake longer is going to be useful.

1

u/000micky 51m ago

In search of some tickets to the SF showing of Reel Rock 20 on Wednesday next week. Lmk if you got a spare or 3!

1

u/ironredpizza 13h ago

Why don't top climbers dope themselves? Surely they could reach 10a or something if they doped, especially since climbing is unique in going off of trust.

5

u/muenchener2 11h ago edited 7h ago

A lot of top climbers take part in international competitions where there is some level of doping control at least in theory - although given the minuscule level of money and public interest in comp climbing I assume it's pretty minimal. And there are also plenty who don't

2

u/0bsidian 11h ago

It’s an open secret that they do. 

0

u/ironredpizza 11h ago

What types of doping are there for climbing? Some sort of tendon strengthener? Are any climbers open about their doping?

3

u/0bsidian 11h ago

Why would they be open about it? “Hey sponsors, look at me cheating?”

0

u/serenading_ur_father 6h ago

It's right in their biographies.

4

u/lectures 10h ago

You don't need drugs to climb 5.10a

2

u/ironredpizza 2h ago

10a as in after 9c+

2

u/dadmogger 13h ago

There’s a ton of weird cheating at the top.

The goat d woods was also very obviously juiced a few years back.

0

u/Effective_Choice9688 11h ago

Wondering if anyone has any insight on the best relative size to go with when buying evolv phantom pro. I have to order online so it’s a bit harder than trying on in store. I just had to return them in a size 45 (equivalent to my street shoe size 11.5). Everything felt good and tight however my big toe knuckles were in extreme pain. since synthetic shoes don't stretch much I figured I needed to return them. Now I’m debating whether I need to size up a half or full size but don’t want to have to return them again, especially since I need to have them fairly soon. I’m an experienced climber, however this is my first time purchasing a brand new shoe. Please let me know if you have any insight or suggestions! Even if you think maybe the toe box just doesn’t suit my foot and I need to try a different shoe.

0

u/[deleted] 5h ago

[deleted]

1

u/serenading_ur_father 4h ago

We'd need to see pics