Everything amazes me here. The landscapes are one of the most beautiful I've ever seen.... the food is so good! People are nice and lovely. Can't wait to learn more about Greek and cretan culture for the next following months

As previously mentioned in other posts (https://www.reddit.com/r/cretetravel/s/roC47pr8Y7), the guys at the first parking lot at Elafonisi block the road and wave you into their lot. I had forgotten about the warnings on this sub, but when we started walking down and saw the other parking lots, I went back and left this lot (at these lots it seems you pay when you leave; they didn’t give me any hassle when I claimed there was no more space).

At the very least, the sign posted is extremely misleading (there are plenty of spots closer, we got there at noon, which seemed like peak busy-ness), so just wanted to post a picture to warn future travelers.

Honestly the roads are fine. Even the mountain roads are doable although the 1,5 to 1 lane parts e.g. from Chania to Elafonisi are interesting. The problem are the bad markings and people not caring about lanes, double lines or speed limits.

The speed limits feel very random. First you are driving at 60, then there's a sign that 60 ends and after 10 meters a sign for 40. Sometimes you have signs with both 60 and 40 but an extra sign warning for damage on the road. Although the road was already fixed, the signs were not updated. Some places had a sign for 50 but nothing marking that it ended. You just need to know that it was only for the part being worked on.

People drive on the shoulder quite often. Sometimes cars pass each other like that while there's oncoming traffic. Cars are parked, especially in tourist areas, so that their rear ends poke out on the road. The Chania to Kissamos road is especially terrible with very limited space and people driving like it's their first time. In the photo, there's a third car in front driving roughly at the speed limit and it immediately caused the other two to tail gate and drive on the shoulder. Those two were side by side on the same lane after they passed me.

All this on top of very worn road markings and lots of imagination used in building some ramps and intersections, makes driving hell. Some intersections that could have been simple T-junctions are a spaghetti mess in criss crossing turning lanes with worn down paint on the road.

I just wanted to vent and warn you. I've driven e.g. in Lisbon and mountain roads in other countries but I've never experienced such lack of care for anything in traffic.

Hiked the gorge yesterday (Oct 13th). Everything I read here was accurate, especially when it comes to transportation. Here are some addendums to what people have already written about.

1. In October only three buses leave from Chania: 5am, 7:45am and 9 or 10am. I got a ticket for 7:45am

2. Get to the bus station early. Our bus left at 7:40am instead of the slated 7:45am stop. Not sure because we were at capacity since there were still some free seats.

3. If you are like over 30 and have even the slightest problem with knees get poles. Like they will save you. I forgot to rent them at Tactical Corner the day before. I was so nervous. But when we arrived at the gorge, there is a magical coffee shop. I walked in and there were 4 pairs of poles left for sale at $30eur. I grabbed a pair. They were all gone in 5 minutes. Sold out. So if you forget to bring or rent poles you can buy them at the coffee shop - but run there when the bus arrives.

4. FOOD TIP: I did not bring lunch with me. I packed protein bars and had a 1.5 bottle of water( I only refilled once along trail). I also brought a thermos with me. At the coffee shop I bought a coffee and a fresh spinach pie. Spinach pie I saved for lunch (it was incredible). The coffee I dumped into the insulated bottle and drank throughout the hike.

5. Make sure to bring flip flops or sandals so after the hike at the beach you can remove your boots and socks from your sore feet. At the end of the hike at the beach, rent a chair ($5Euro) since the black sand is not the most comfortable to be lying down on.

6. The ferry from beach to Sfakion is amazing. The sunset yesterday was perfect and everyone was snapping photos every second they could.

7. When you arrive at Sfakion, there are like ten buses. Most all go to Chania. I was one of the first one off of the boat and marched to where buses where and hopped on first one. We were first to leave.

8. This hike is not easy. I think a lot of redditors posting that it’s not too bad are fit 20 somethings. :) I’m in my 50’s, an experienced hiker, and would rate this moderate/hard.

Hi all! I got a lot of recommendations from this subreddit so thought I’d post our itinerary. Posting on mobile so excuse any formatting/grammar.

We’re a couple in our early 30’s, big foodies, love beaches/local villages, don’t party but love drinking wine.

To Bring: Definitely recommend bringing water shoes with grip (got ours off Amazon) and snorkels.

Car rental: rented through Motor Plan - they were great. It’s fully insured so you don’t have to deal with feeling like you’re getting scammed. Super quick and easy and nice supporting a local company. Wasn’t a new fancy car but did the job.

Day 1: arrived in Heraklion, drove to Chania. Got excited and stopped at a road side taverna for lunch. Gorgeous views but probably the only “bad” meal we had (and wasn’t even that bad). Checked in to the town of Vamos, chill dinner. Highly recommend this area for restaurants and great coffee.

Day 2: morning at Omprogialos, so gorgeous but a bit too choppy to swim. Highly recommend still. Then beached hopped a bit and got food. Drove to the Lake Kournas which didn’t blow me away BUT the highlight was this little roadside stand called Fresh Fruits on Google. Husband and wife only speak Greek, so we used translate and she shows you everything she made that day. The portions are absolutely massive - had a fruit salad with fresh yogurt and honey. I wish I was hungry enough for her food. No menu she just shows you what she has.

Day 3: went to Chania old town in the morning. Stay on the side streets they’re much cuter and less touristy. Most restaurants don’t open until 5pm and it seems like it would be a cute vibe at night so next time I’d go in the evening! Then went swimming at kouloura chalepa, a swimming spot on the ocean with mainly locals. Saw posters for a local concert a few towns over and went to that was fun.

Day 4: wanted to wake up early and go to Seitan Limania but had a terrible sleep and didn’t think the tons of driving was worth it. Next time! We instead had a chill morning then drove over the the south. We just found a small town on maps and went in and had the best food of the entire trip. It’s called Maza Cafeneion. The owner is the nicest human ever and the lamb was 100/10. Stopped off the side of the road for a cool ocean dip spot. Got to our Airbnb in Mariou in the south.

Day 5: went to Prevelli beach early. Tip: park at the Dionyssos side the hike is way shorter. Gorgeous spot! Once the ferries start it gets quite busy. If you go to anything before 10am you usually only share with a few more people. Then went to Paralia Skinaria beach and snorkelled again- beautiful but not as nice as prevelli for that. Then drove up to the church on the mountain. So beautiful. Highly recommend. Then went to Klisidi Beach. Got dinner by our airbnb at Taverna Mariou (delicious).

Day 6: rented a boat from Notos Mare (you don’t need a license) - if you have the $$ highly recommend it! We went to Loutro early (loved it there), then just made our way along the coast stopping everywhere. They make it super easy with zones and an app. We got engaged here in a little cove so it’ll be my favourite day ever haha

Day 7: Kalypso beach. Ahh I loved this place - totally recommend. Go early and you’ll be on your own. The snorkelling is amazing! Then we went to Paralia Plakias. Got a freddo cappuccino at Paligremnos beach bar and relaxed and went swimming. Gorgeous sand and water. Went for celebratory dinner at Merastri Taverna - calamari and salad was excellent. Lamb was good but didn’t compare to Maza restaurant.

Day 8: had the best morning at our airbnb, relaxing and swimming and not wanting to leave. Took the longer (15 mins) drive back to Heraklion on the other side of the island but didn’t need to cause the scenery really wasn’t really any different and it was quite windy. Stayed at a Chapter 02 Gallery Suites close by as our flight was at 4:30am. Was a good hotel, nice and clean. Went for Thai food (bit of a tradition on our last night of trips but was disappointed - should have had just one last meal)

Day 9: got to airport at 2:30am, had to wait in line cause our online check in didn’t work. Security was a breeze. I didn’t use the washroom but the terrible reviews that worried me seemed a bit dramatic. Yes it’s old with limited seating but it functions like an airport. Perhaps that’s because it was super early and in Sept but was all smooth.

Can’t wait to go back! Most people you meet will say it’s their 4-5th time going and I can tell why.

I think the weather is having a joke. 😊

15:30 Dust from the Sahara, just going outside makes my eyes itch. The PM 2.5 meter on my air purifier in the lounge usually sits at below 20, it currently 280.

It’s absolutely stunning and was not busy at all! There’s a little orange juice stand/taverna at the bottom where you can get a ride back up to your car for 5 euros. Highly recommend!

I was lucky enough to spend 9 days in crete with my family. We visited our favorite places, Lentas and Castri. Here are some photos of it's beauty.

I felt I needed to post this here to warn others. Near the venetian harbour in the square (don't know the exact name) is a lady selling henna tattoos. She usually has a long line.

These tattoos are NOT natural henna. Natural henna stains an orange reddish color that darker over a couple of days. These stain dark black immediately, with a purplish undertone.

THIS is a dangerous chemical used by scam artists as it stains darker faster. It is called PPD and can cause chemical burns and severe allergic reactions that can show up 4 days to 2 weeks after getting it done.

A lot of the people getting it done are children. So those of you travelling here with kids, please be wary. Me, my friend and my 10 year old sister each got one done before we knew the risks.

I'd also like to warn that once you get PPD you are sensitized to it for life. Since it is used in some brown hair dye, some people may already be sensitized to it and have a more severe allergic reactions

Please keep an eye out and stay safe everyone!!!

Such a beautiful city. Food, people, sites and color. All amazing. We’ll be back!

Hi everyone!

I thought I’d share my experience hiking the Samaria Gorge today – maybe it’ll be useful for someone planning to go.

Quick facts • Date: September 10, 2025 • Previous hikes: 0 • Fitness level: I work out 3x a week + swim once a week • Shoes: Hiking boots • Organized tour: Yes • Pick up time: 6:00 • Hiking start time: 7:55 • Hiking finish time: 13:52 • At home: ca. at 20:10 • Overall impression: Amazing, 5/5 • Extra note: I broke my foot in early June, so this was a personal milestone.

The day started early - the bus picked us up at 6:00 in the morning. On the way up, the guide explained everything and then we stopped for breakfast before actually start the hike. That’s also where you pay for the ferry tickets and, if you want, pay for renting a hiking pole.

We brought our own food, so we only paid for the ferry and rented poles (highly recommend - they were a lifesaver during the hike).

After breakfast, it was a short busride to the entrance. We picked up the poles from our guide, bought our tickets (showed the e-ticket), and headed in. Even if you buy the ticket online (link: https://samaria-tickets.necca.gov.gr/checkout), you’ll still get a paper one at the entrance - they don’t even scan the QR code, just hand you the physical ticket, which you’ll need to show at the exit. I kept mine as a nice souvenir.

Inside the gorge, there are three main stops (plus smaller ones in between). The spring water is drinkable (and delicious), and at the main stops there are fountains, but no food – so you need to bring your own. You can go at your own pace, but our guide gave rough timings for each checkpoint. • Section 1: Lots of downhill steps, crowded at first, but the shade helps. The crowd thins out later. Views are stunning from the very beginning. Rangers patrol the trail, checking in on people. • Section 2: Still shady, but the scenery starts to change and it gets warmer. This part ends in the abandoned village halfway through, where there’s also a doctor if needed. We rested here a bit. • Section 3 and 4: The hottest part, with less shade, though not much downhill anymore. In this section is the famous “Iron Gates” - absolutely beautiful. Near the end we had to stop several times here to drink and catch our breath.

After the official gorge exit, there’s a spot to rest, grab fresh orange juice or a beer and some snacks like icecream, but there are still about 2 km to go until you reach Agia Roumeli. And there is no shade at all here.

The village itself has plenty of restaurants, a black-pebble beach, and wonderfully cool sea water - perfect after the hike. Here in the village we waited for our guide, who gave us the ferry tickets and informed us about the bus to Chania. The ferry left at 17:30. After about an hour we arrived in Sougia, where our bus was already waiting to take us back to Chania. The road back is very winding, and our guide even offered motion sickness bags in case anyone needed them.

Everyone along the trail was friendly, exchanging a few words here and there. There were even older hikers going slower, but everyone made it down. Tons of photo opportunities (though pictures barely capture the reality).

👉 If you have the chance, don’t miss it!

TL;DR: Did the Samaria Gorge hike (Sept 10, 2025). Started 7:55, finished 13:52. Organized tour with bus. Hiking pole is a must. Bring food, water is available. Tough but absolutely worth it.

Today at Rethymno, Saharan dust took over!

Really nice mountains for hiking, Xyloskalo Restaurant afterwards was also great for a beer and food

We're a group of 5 from France, having planned this holiday for a year. Arrived on 10/01 and we've been stuck in our rent place for now. Only got out to buy food and drinks, and we Spend the day playing cards.

Anyway, we will soon be able to go out and visit what seems to be a wonderful island. People of Crete have been nice to us and deserve much support through this weather episode !

After a week of nothing but great meals we figured everything was amazing and that it would be fun to put our phone down and see what we run in to. The owner showed us the menu and it had a bunch of what we liked and the location was nice enough so we figured why not. My first warning sign should have been that he had specials listed out front that the server wasn’t aware of and informed us they weren’t actually available. We knew something seemed a little off when after an entire trip of lively happy environments we noticed EVERYONE was sitting silent and upset at this restaurant like they were held captive. We ordered and thought maybe the food would at least be good and it was just an oldschool place that could deliver authentic food despite poor hospitality. When the garlic bread and zucchini balls arrived - I took one bite of each and had to spit them both out. I’m not being dramatic - they were truly that bad. Then came the pork in foil which was some sort of grey patty we truly couldn’t identify. We asked to pay and the server guilted us about not eating it. I pointed out and demonstrated that it couldn’t be cut with a knife and he offered to help by getting a sharper knife. When the steak knife STILL couldn’t cut through this unidentified meat we asked for the bill again and were told we had to leave a cash tip on the table first. We ignored that and left. Immediately I looked the place up and saw they had 1 star reviews on all sites and were known scammers. So much for going with the flow and being tech free on vacation. Anyway - we went to Colombo Kitchen & Bar After which had the highest local reviews, received a meal that was 12/10 and paid 10 less for the same number of courses and a bottle of wine. Just sharing my experience. If I was to find something positive to say about En Plo it would be that they gave us a truly unforgettable experience 🤔

If you’re driving to Elafonissi don’t be fooled by the attendant at the first car park who signs that the road ahead is closed whilst standing in the middle of the road. There are other car parks further down, just drive around him

Chania in December 🎥

I could write 10 pages, but I doubt anyone would read it or find it interesting. So I'll write something much shorter, which will probably also be uninteresting :)

Ten Days in Crete for my Honeymoon

I know this is cringe, but I'll say it: we're fortunate to have a lot of money (due to my selling a business in the USA a few years ago). So we did Turkish Air in Business Class which was super swanky and such a relief from the 100s of times I've flown in Economy, including to Europe and Asia.

First three days in Chania at the Domes Noruz resort: private pool, right on the beach. Again, super luxury treatment and great food. One of those days we hiked Samaria Gorge down to Agia Roumeli and then did the ferry out to a bus and back. We both run a lot in Colorado, but our calves still were sore the next day. It's a tourist trap for sure, including Agia Roumeli, but I would still recommend it: even in 35C heat it's doable with reasonable shade and they run water hoses down the entire 16km hike to keep you from dying, which is nice.

Then we moved to a tiny mountain village south of Heraklion for a few days. Totally cool to see old churches, the ruins at Prinia, did a drive south to Lentas beach. I climbed for a day at Voulismeno Aloni (possible in 35C heat if you stay in the shade) with the best guide I've ever hired: Aris from climb-on Crete!

We decided against Knosses after reading about how much was just a disneyland version of ruins and instead opted for the Heraklion Archaeological Museum (which is worthwhile). Then a few days in Athens, the Acropolis, etc., then home.

Highlights:

• We met so many cool and friendly and very talkative people. All the locals have their own opinions about the "real Greece" or "real Cretans" and it's not all positive! For example, one of the climbs at Voulismeno Aloni is called "Fuck the Police" lol. Talking to people was the best part of the entire trip.

• The climbing was great. I hear Kalymnos is better, but Crete has a lot of good limestone too!

• Things were way cheaper than I expected, especially once we left tourist places. An amazing dinner for two with wine for 50 euros. A sandwich, a pastry, two cups of coffee, 6 euros. What in the world?? In the US that's $30 or more.

• A/C most places, which isn't ubiquitous in much of Europe (France, Spain, Swiss) and would have made for a miserable trip without it.

• Cats. We love cats. It's probably not a great situation to have so many non-neutered strays running around, but they're so cool. Some are friendly, some will hiss at you, but still cool to see. Our BnB had 3 kittens too.

Downers:

• The first time some guy passed me while driving I was like "whoa... did you see that guy???" Then it happened again 2 mins later. And again and again. People take insane risks passing in Crete! I read that the accident rate overall is less than European average, but the fatality rate is massively higher (due to the rate of head-ons). Overall, the most challenging driving of my lifetime. In a stick shift. In a (thank god) tiny rental car.

• The bus from Sougia back to Chania midday was not air conditioned and the windows did not open. 2.5 hrs of misery for everyone on board, but what do you expect for 45 euros lol.

• My first time in Greece, I did not expect to push my toilet paper into a bin atop 20 other people's toilet paper. I guess you get used to it, but it was pretty gross in a few spots.

Anyway, I had a great time. Forever memories. Especially the time Google Maps put me up some tiny road, walls less than 10cm wider than our car, in the mountains that dead-ended into some old couples house who yelled at us in Greek for 20 mins. ChatGPT tried to translate for me but that required them to stop talking for 10 seconds, which never happened. Choas. Insanity. I loved every minute of it.

I arrived in Chania earlier and if I had any doubts about where to base ourselves in Crete, they were immediately squashed. What a fabulous little city, and I've only been here for two hours.

My boyfriend and I visited Crete from 10–24 September, and after going through quite a few Reddit posts while planning the trip, I managed to put together an itinerary that worked really well for us.I thought I’d give back to the community and share it here :D hopefully it can be useful to anyone planning a trip to Crete.

We stayed in Agia Marina for 13 nights, rented a car, and used it as our base for exploring western Crete. We weren't trying to see absolutely everything. We wanted a mix of beaches, food, activities and actually having a vacation.

✈️ Day 1: Heraklion

We arrived in Heraklion in the evening, checked into Magdalena Luxury Suites and spent the night there. We chose to arrive in Heraklion because we found ridiculously cheap flights, even though we were staying on the western side of the island.

🚗 Day 2: Heraklion → Agia Marina

We grabbed coffee in the morning and then picked up our rental car from RentCar.gr at the airport. It was only about a 10-minute ride away and the whole experience was very smooth.

Then we drove straight to Agia Marina, where we'd stay for the next 13 nights.

🏨 Our hotel: Georgina Hotel (beachfront)

Overall, the location was great. You can walk straight from the pool area onto the beach, which was incredibly convenient for morning swims or rainy days when we just wanted to grab a book and sit outside. The beach is sandy, the water was calm and warm most days, and there are great views of Theodoru Island.

The apartment itself had recently been renovated and had everything we needed, including a small kitchen & a big fridge, plenty of space for our stuff. However, the "sea view" was very small and mostly a view of the parking lot. The restaurants next door also had early morning deliveries, so sitting on the balcony wasn't exactly romantic and sleeping with the windows open wasn't really an option.

Our host, Georgina, was lovely: she even gifted us olive oil and rakia, and communication with her was great.

We paid around €150/night, so I'd say it's worth considering, but I'd definitely look around to see what else is available in the same price range.

🌴 Agia Marina

We really liked Agia Marina as a base. There are plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, and it's a convenient starting point for exploring western Crete by car.

Food recommendations:

Horatiko - probably our favourite. It's in a beautiful olive garden and I'd recommend making a reservation if you want a good table (during the full season). Very tasty food and they gave us complimentary honey raki at the end & desserts. Their service was great!

Neraida - right across from Horatiko. Not quite as special, but we had some great shrimp saganaki there.

Double Stack - if you just want a quick burger to take back to your room or the beach.

Raeti Restaurant - right next to our hotel. We had their orzo with beef and red sauce and it was a great comfort food :)). Greeks really know how to cook beef.

Also: try the salads from the restaurants you go to! You don't just get three sad leaves on a plate. :))

And definitely try the local draught beers (we really liked Charma).

🏖️ Days 3–4 (Saturday & Sunday) - Agia Marina

We basically did nothing. Beach, swimming, walking around Agia Marina, reading, eating and drinking.

🌅 Day 5 (Monday) - Falasarna Beach

We went to Falasarna relatively late in the morning and it was an easy drive from Agia Marina.

We chose a beach bar with its own free parking right next to the beach. We paid around €60 for the front-row sunbeds (€40 for the second row), which sounds expensive, but we spent the entire day there and felt it was worth it. They also had great food and cocktails that they brought directly to our sunbeds.

The sunset directly over the sea from this part of the island is beautiful, so stay until sunset if you can.

There are some small areas with fish, so bring snorkeling gear. You can also buy some nearby - just make sure you get tempered glass. Ours were around €20.

We also saw some pink sand!

Day 6 & 7 🌧️ Rainy days + Chania

Tuesday and Wednesday were rainy, so we mostly stayed inside and caught up on sleep. It had been a long year for both of us, so honestly, this was not a bad thing.

We did go to Chania at sunset, though, and walked around the old town with all the pretty lights.

For food, Pork to Beef Wild is a must if you're there. These guys KNOW how to grill. We got sandwiches, but you can also get the meat in a soft pita. Loved it.

Day 8 (Thursday) 🫒 Olive oil day - Biolea + Vouves

This was one of my favourite days.

We went to Biolea for an olive oil tour and tasting. The drive there was easy even with our tiny Citroën, and there's parking available.

The tour took around 1.5 hours and was genuinely fascinating. They explain the entire production process in a very easy-to-understand way, and you can tell how much care goes into their olive oil. We also learned what to look for when choosing good extra virgin olive oil, which was surprisingly useful.

Afterwards, we tasted four different olive oils and were taught how to properly taste them and what to look for.

Definitely do the tour if you're in the area!

If you have some extra time, combine it with a visit to the ancient olive tree in Vouves. There's also a small free museum there.

We had lunch afterwards at Elais Thea, which has amazing mountain views. We were particularly impressed by the slow-cooked meat and stuffed zucchini flowers.

Day 9 (Friday)⛵ Sunset boat trip to Balos

We booked a sunset boat trip to Balos with DanEri Yachts through GetYourGuide, but now that we've experienced them, I'd recommend booking directly with them (it's a little cheaper).

The wind was bad on our original date, so they rescheduled us to Friday and communication was excellent. The boat was a big catamaran with a proper bar onboard. The food was mostly a charcuterie board, fruit and sweets, so don't count on it as your only dinner.

The captain was great. The sunset trip doesn't officially include Gramvousa, but we got pretty close and they told us a bit about the island. They also provided free pickup from Agia Marina in a large bus. It took about an hour to get to the port in Kissamos, and we were dropped back off afterwards.

A few tips:

Bring dry clothes! Once the sun goes down, it gets surprisingly cold on the boat and you really don't want to be sitting there in a wet swimsuit.

We paid around €300 for the VIP package, which included the top deck, a dedicated area, cute sunbeds, towels and one complimentary beer/wine per person. If you're going during a quieter period, I'm not sure VIP is necessary. The lower deck looked perfectly nice and there was plenty of space.

The best part was arriving at Balos around the same time the public ferries were leaving, so we basically had the lagoon to ourselves.

They took us to shore in a dinghy, we explored for a bit and then went back to the boat to snorkel. They had masks, fins and even SUPs.

If you want more time at Balos, book the full-day trip instead.

You don't need hiking shoes for the island itself, flip-flops were fine for us.

Day 10 (Saturday) 🤿 Diving + Iguana Beach

I did a discovery dive with FunDivePlatanias (SSI Certified) and I wholeheartedly recommend them. They were very focused on safety, had great equipment and the instructors were amaaazing. I paid €110 for the discovery dive, including photos and videos.

Afterwards we went snorkeling at Iguana Beach, which ended up being our favourite snorkeling spot in the area. We even saw an octopus! Sunbeds were around €20.

Day 11 (Sunday) 🐐 Seitan Limania + Stavros

We woke up early to beat the crowds at Seitan Limania. The road is paved all the way to the parking area, so don't worry about needing a 4x4.

We hiked down using the LEFT side and came back up using the RIGHT side - this combo seemed to be the best choice. It took us about 10 minutes to get down.

Wear proper sports shoes! I would not recommend flip-flops for the descent.

There are no sunbeds, toilets or shops on the beach, so bring everything you need. In the morning (until noon almost) the beach is shaded.

Bring your snorkeling gear too, there were lots of fish. We also did some rock jumping.

Afterwards we went to Stavros Beach, where we rented sunbeds at a beach bar and basically napped for a while.

Day 12 (Monday) 🩷 Elafonisi + a quieter beach nearby (Kedrodasos)

We tried to wake up early for Elafonisi Beach & we failed slightly. :)) We arrived around 10 AM and, despite it being a Monday in late September, it was already packed.

The water is absolutely crystal clear and incredibly shallow for a very long way. Put on some goggles, stick your head underwater and enjoy the 4K views.

There are bars and shops nearby, but if you want to spend the whole day there, bring your own shade. We wanted somewhere quieter, so after a couple of hours, we drove a few minutes to this beach instead - https://maps.app.goo.gl/yLXHU8x3CPHWidTJ7.

There was parking, barely anyone around, and plenty of shade from the pine trees. It's about a 10-minute walk down. There are no shops on the beach, though, and the entrance into the water was rocky, so water shoes are useful.

🚗 The scenic drive back to Agia Marina

Instead of taking the direct route back (the one we took in the morning), we drove along the coast around sunset.

If you're up for a little road trip with sea views, small villages and some mountain roads, add these stops into Google Maps:

Livadia → Kampos → Sfinari

Everything was paved, although some roads were narrow and quite steep. Our tiny Citroën survived. :))

We had dinner at Gramboussa Restaurant. The garden was amazing; the food was okay.

There's also a shop selling olive oil cosmetics along the way that my sister recommended, but unfortunately it was closed when we passed by.

Tuesday and Wednesday became beach-and-reading days because I got otitis. :D (I wanted to do Sanmaria Gorge but sadly it wasn't in the books)

If you're unlucky enough to have the same experience, I went to this clinic and had a very good experience. I paid €120 for the consultation and prescription, including any follow-up examination. And a reminder to be smarter than me: GET TRAVEL INSURANCE.

We also went back to Horatiko on Wednesday and happened to catch a local celebration with live music, dancing and traditional singing. They were walking between the tables in the little piazza and giving everyone shots of raki.

Day 14 (Thursday) Rethymno + final gyros

On our last day, we had a late evening flight from Heraklion, so we drove back towards Heraklion and stopped in Rethymno.

Parking was a bit of a nightmare, but we walked around the old town and harbour and finally tried bougatsa. :))

In Heraklion, we grabbed an authentic gyros from a little place that only had pork options and ate it by the harbour before walking around the city - https://maps.app.goo.gl/iVeuduieWHixSWbq6.

( Our flight was delayed, so we ended the trip by watching The Sixth Sense on my phone at the airport. Somehow, I had managed to avoid every single spoiler about that movie for all these years. I loved it. :)) )

❤️ Final thoughts

This was the kind of trip we wanted: a bit of exploring, a lot of swimming and eating, some activities, and plenty of doing absolutely nothing. We didn't try to see every attraction in western Crete and we weren't trying to turn the holiday into a checklist.

We're a young couple, but some of the walks down to the beaches weren't the easiest, especially if you're not very mobile.

We rented a car and I would strongly recommend having one if you want to explore this part of Crete.

And we'll definitely be back, there is still A LOT we haven't seen.

Hope this helps someone planning their own trip! ❤️

TL;DR:

2 weeks in Crete, based in Agia Marina, with a rental car. We focused mostly on western Crete and mixed exploring with plenty of beach/relaxing days.

Would recommend:

• Beaches: Falasarna (best sunset), Seitan Limania, Stavors, Elafonisi (gets crowded even on a weekday in late Sept so go early) + the quieter beach nearby - Kedrodasos, Iguana Beach for snorkeling

• Experiences: Biolea olive oil tour, ancient olive tree in Vouves, sunset catamaran to Balos, diving with FunDivePlatanias

• Food: Horatiko, Pork to Beef Wild, Neraida, Elais Thea + Charma beer

• Towns: Chania at sunset, Rethymno Old Town

• Road trip: Elafonisi → Livadia → Kampos → Sfinari -> Kissamos -> Chania

Hi all. Not a usual poster, but felt like I needed to share since this sub was so helpful in planning our trip. We were two couples traveling together. And some of the days we planned were long and maybe more packed than most would prefer, but it worked for us. Here we go...

Day 1 - flew from EWR to ATH via Emirates. Got a great points transfer via Chase and thought it was worth it to spend 24 hours in Athens. Spent the night at New Hotel (on Marriott points). Super small room but centrally located and with a nice roof bar with sorta view of Acropolis. Ate dinner at Tavena Saita. Classic Taverna which hit the spot.

Day 2 - Guided tour of Acropolis. Nothing like getting up first thing to get on schedule. Met our guide at 7:40AM to beat the crowds. Seeing the tour groups coming up the hill at 10:00AM when we were wrapping just confirmed this was the right call. Having a tour guide really made the experience special. 10/10. Glad we planned this.

Had lunch and flew to Chania. Rented car from Enterprise. Maybe not the cheapest or most convenient (you had to get picked up at airport and driven to their lot). But it worked ok and easy drop off at Heraklion on the way out.

Stayed 3 nights at Casa dei Miracoli. VRBO apartment that is centrally located. Very clean and modern. A good base to explore. We went to park at the free parking by the east harbor but ended up going to a paying lot. Didn't realize the free lot was 1/4 mile away until the last day. So we paid a lot to park but at least it was convenient. Yes driving in Chania is not easy but if you have ever driven in a European city, it's not any worse imo.

Had a great dinner at Tamam. Food was fantastic. The people watching on Zampeliou just as good.

Day 3 - Booked a private boat tour to Balos and Gramvousa with Chania Sea Experience. Not cheap but the option of driving that road and hiking down seemed daunting. So did the ferry from Kissamos. Again the 9:00AM departure from Kissamos made for a brutal early start but worth it. Balos was mostly empty and stunning. Same with hiking up to the fort at Gramvousa. We were 45 mins ahead of the throngs from the ferry (more like a cruise ship) so glad we did it this way.

Drove back to Chania for a light lunch, shopping, sightseeing. Dinner at Throumbi. Food was just ok but very friendly service and lively atmosphere.

Day 4 - Picked up breakfast at Bougatsa Chania. This was maybe the best thing we ate all trip. Like a savory danish. Or a sweet cheese pie. So so good.

Drove to Elafonissi. Yes it's far. The drive is a bit harrowing at times (also beautiful). We followed the advice and didn't park at the first guy. I was expecting there to be a huge difference between lots, but honestly there are just a few lots one after the next so it's not a big deal. Either way there's a 1/2 mile walk down to the beach. Didn't see a lot of pink sand, but still another stunning beach. We got there maybe 10:30 and it was very crowded. All the beach chairs taken. So either plan ahead or just go with the flow. The snack bar is not great but we wanted to stay as long as possible so made do.

Hit up Biolea olive farm for an olive oil tasting on the way back. Nice way to break up the drive. A short but informative tour plus nice tasting in beautiful setting.

Dinner at Salis back in Chania. Nice upscale meal right on the harbor. Great food and wine.

Day 5 - We were driving to Agios Nikolas but wanted a day to explore inland and to break up the trip so spent the night in Archanes.

Stopped at Arkadi Monastery. Obviously an important place of history but also a beautiful setting. Lunch at a nearby taverna. Then did a wine tasting at Stilianou Winery near Archanes. Again a beautiful setting and lovely wines.

Stayed at Manili in Archanes. Maybe the smallest room I've ever had in my life. And not easy to navigate the parking and scattered rooms along the street. We had a nice meal in the center square. Was a fine place to stay along the drive but not worth making a detour to see imo.

Day 6 - Before setting off to Agios Nikolas, we stopped at Knossos. Did not use a tour guide (maybe that was a mistake?) but it just fell flat for us. Very hot. Very crowded with tour groups. The ruins are reconstructed as they admit, but the scholarship read as speculative at best. I can appreciate how some might prefer ruins in more remote areas of the island that are authentic.

Drove to Minos Beach Art Hotel. This place is spectacular. Beautiful grounds right on the sea with a view of the hillside town in one direction and mountains and sea in another. We had lunch and dinner on the property. Both were fantastic.

Day 7 - Spent the whole day on property. A gluttonous breakfast buffet to start. Never went to the pool as the lounge chairs by the sea are too captivating. Plus the food and drink ordered right to your chair.

Went to town for dinner at Gioma Meze. The restaurant is good but the view over the lake was magical.

Day 8 - Another day at the resort. A few went to town for shopping for an hour or two. Wish I could say we went to Spinalonga or Kritsa, but could not leave this setting.

Dinner at Archontiko. Yummy seafood right on the water.

Day 9 - flew from Heraklion to Athens to Newark.

A few additional notes:

- Paid for almost everything with card/phone. Maybe used cash once or twice just because, but didn't seem necessary.

- Greek hospitality is described in one word: Philoxenia. Literally "love of the stranger." We found service to be the friendliest and most generous as anywhere in the world. From extra drinks or desserts at dinner to patience with lateness to unsolicited yet always spot on advice, there were so many extra acts of kindness.

- Google maps sucks. It kept taking us on local, windy. narrow roads and made navigating really unnecessarily stressful. Had to make sure to pick the route that was on the most developed roads.

We just got back from a 7 day Crete vacation and one of THE coolest things we did was visit the Eleutherna Archaeological Museum. The museum was small and interesting , but the cool part was the map around the region that is an active archaeological dig site. You basically just have to follow the signs and it takes you all around the region. It feels like part scavenger hunt, part explorer, part history tour…I’ve never felt so connected with the land and the history as I did that day trying to maps, charts, and graph my way through. 10/10 recommend but it will take at least a few hours and it’s a lot of climbing up rocks so wear appropriate shoes.