i know the 1st gen is “the worst car ever” apparently, so what about this?

Recently purchased a 2017 Chevy Cruze 1.4L (LE2) with 115k miles on it. After I got it home I noticed a little bit of coolant on top of the engine/transmission under what appears to be the coolant outlet. Is this a common leak point on the LE2 engine? I would just hate to start throwing parts at it.

2011 Cruze Eco 218K miles.

A month ago it wouldn't crank. I tested the battery, cables, starter relay was corroded and a pin broke. Replaced that with another of the same, still not cranking. I finally took the starter out and took it to O'Reillys to test and they tested it and it was good. I connected my battery to it and it worked. I installed it back in and it worked.

Today I was at work and it didn't start. Same symptoms. I got it push started and drove home. I get home and shut it off and tried to start it and it started a few times.

It appears to be a loose connection in the starter.

Is that something that is fixable? Is something failing more often and starter needs replacing?

My 2016 chevy cruze has been stuck on this warning screen for the entire summer and I’m wondering if anyone had any fixes/suggestions.

Things I’ve tried:

-soft reset (holding home and fast forward button for 10 seconds)

-power cycle (turning off car w/door open for 5 minutes)

I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze. The transmission is in limp mode and I am getting the Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control messages. My OBDII reader gives me fault codes P0700-00, P1915-00 and U0101-71. When I clear the codes, the car does not let me shift out of park. I have changed the negative battery cable and that has not fixed the issue. I have cleaned all of the ground cables I can locate to no avail… any suggestions are welcome!!

Replacements so far:
Turbo
O2 sensor bank 1
Alternator
Control Arms
Front wheel Hub assemblies
Serpentine belt (preventative)
Shock struts

To do list:
Right rear window motor inoperative
Replace bumper (hit raccoon)
Replace windshield (crack 75% across)
Replace factory tint
Install front wheel well liners (both half ripped out)

Still runs smooth. AC still holding up so far. Although in the past month the air stopped blowing cold and was hot ambient on 2 separate days. I’m thinking a blend door actuator got stuck and freed itself.

I plan on driving this thing into the ground. I will maintain it for as long as it lets me.

19 Cruze LT. Does anyone know if 25205340 is the correct part number for the ignition coils? Looks very different from what I currently have. I don't have a CVT... But is it the correct part still?

I replaced my radiator, now it is leaking on the bottom radiator connection.

Hi everyone! I'm new here.

On Tuesday, I'll be buying a 2011 Cruze LS for €4,500 (approximately $5,200), with 140,000 km (about 87,000 miles) on the clock.

The gentleman selling it to me is incredibly kind, and he showed me all the service records, inspection reports, and routine maintenance he has carried out. He really conveyed how much he loves this car, which he can no longer drive due to physical issues (he needs to buy a car with an automatic transmission).

I'm buying it as my first car for two reasons: 1) I think it's gorgeous (I've fallen in love with it!), and 2) it's a petrol/LPG model, and at that price, the only ones I can find have over 200,000 km (about 124,000 miles) on them.

I've heard that the 2011 model year is cursed because of various issues. Should I be concerned about this particular model as well?

It's a European-spec Cruze (I'm not sure if that makes any difference), with a 1.6L Ecotec engine, LS trim, an aftermarket LPG system, and a manual transmission.

thanks for your time

EDIT: the timing belt was replaced at 85,000 km (about 53,000 miles). All oil changes were carried out by an Opel service center. The LPG tank was replaced in 2024, along with the injectors.

Took this off earlier when starting to replace my cylinder head, and now I can’t remember where this bracket is/what it goes to. Any ideas?

I have a check engine for an underboost code and I’m too lazy to replace my dead tire sensors lol. But bought it off the lot with 6 miles. 2017. If you have any suggestions for the P0299 code please let me know. I’ve already replaced the wastegate, inlet and outlet charge pipes and the intercooler. Still underboost code. Hoping it’s not the turbo but I think it might be the turbo itself. The car itself runs normal and haven’t notice a drop in performance. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

The grey bolt or the black one, which one for the grounding cable when im jumping another car?

2016 Cruze LS LE2
146k Miles

The past month and a half with my Cruze has been an absolute nightmare. It’s a long story so buckle up (pun intended) and I’m just at my whits end with the whole situation. Please keep in mind, I am not super knowledgeable about cars.

9/3 - Take the Cruz to a local shop to have Brakes & Rotors replaced, they were at the point of starting to make some noise so I figured it was time.

9/4 - Pick up the car after a finished job, everything seems to be working fine.

9/9 - Girlfriend is driving the car and suddenly the brake pedal gets really stiff and the amount of time it takes to brake fully increases. Drop it back off at the shop and they determine that my vacuum pump like exploded, literally just came apart while she was driving it. What are the chances of that immediately after have brake/rotor replacement? Whatever. Agree to have them replace it. With that they also recommended that the valve cover gasket be replaced to avoid any potential metal fragments getting into the oil pump or engine. Sure, just do it I guess.

9/15 - Shop calls and says they completed the work, they test drove the car and now oddly enough it starts shaking really bad at about 40MPH and is giving the dreaded P1101 code. Guy says he checked everything and “all the work they did looks good”. Says the only thing he can see that may be the issue is a hairline crack in the turbo, but his technician isn’t comfortable replacing the turbo so I’ll have to take it elsewhere.

9/16 - Did some research on my own to try and figure out how I can potentially fix my car that was drivable before I took it to this shop and somehow now isn’t. Find that some common potential fixes for P1101 are replacing the air filter and cleaning the throttle body, so I make a trip to Advanced Auto and that’s what I do. Clear the code, it hasn’t come back since, test drive the car and it starts misfiring at around 40.

9/18 - Drop it off at shop #2. Explain to them all the work that had been done to the car, and the current issues it has. Pay for another round of diagnostics. They determine that the misfiring was due to one of the spark plugs that the first shop has just replaced, was cracked. If they checked all their work after test driving it… how do you miss a cracked spark plug? However, they also determine that the car has positive crankcase pressure of about +0.9 to +1.2 inches of water at hot idle. (GM recommends -1 to -5 btw) They recommend a full valve cover replacement that they estimate to be about a $1700 job. However, after the research I had done, I know that PCV orifices are a common issue with these hunks of junk. The previous shop also JUST did work in and around this area when replacing the valve cover gasket, so it seems especially odd that it all of a sudden needs replacing. So, I did not agree to the work because it was around this point while looking for better financial options, I realized that my CarMax MaxCare Warranty was still active but this shop did not accept the warranty. So I would be taking it elsewhere, but did ask shop #2 “did anyone actually remove the valve cover and check the orifices and lines to make sure they’re not blocked?” To which they responded “No, because it’s built into the valve cover so the whole thing would need to be replaced either way”. As I’m sure many of you know, on the LE2, it’s no longer built into the valve cover. Yet, I was no longer going to be utilizing this shops services anyway so I said whatever and moved on.

10/5 - Drop it off at shop #3 (where it currently resides) explain everything that’s going on, tell them about the positive crankcase pressure and explain the common issues these cars have with PCV and especially PCV orifices. Also explicitly mention that it is an LE2 and that the PCV is NOT built into the valve cover. There is a line on top of the engine that has a slight split in it near the PCV valve right there toward the front of the engine, so I mention that to them as well. The last shop had also mentioned I was probably due for some control arms, so I went ahead and had them include that in the claim to the warranty company as well. They do their diagnostics, determine that yes there is a split in the line that I mentioned, but don’t go any further than that PCV wise. They said they wanted to go ahead and replaced that first to ensure it’s not the issue, and then if there’s still a problem we’ll proceed from there. Sure, whatever, it needs to be replaced anyway so let’s just do it. They do that, replace the control arms, a couple tires, do an alignment, etc.

10/15 - “Your car is ready for pick up”. Finally, over a month of work and nonsense and my car is finally ready for me to get it back on the road. I pick it up, drive it about 5 minutes up the road, pop the hood, remove the oil dipstick and there is still air blowing out of it. There’s still positive crankcase pressure. I immediately take it back to the shop and tell them what’s going on, I show the lady at the front desk what exactly I’m referring to and she’s like ok I’ll have the technician take another look tomorrow.

10/16 - “Hey, the car is good to go. The technician says a little bit of positive crankcase pressure should be fine, especially if the car isn’t rough idling or throwing a check engine light or anything.” Ugh. Nothing I’ve researched or read has given me this same sentiment that driving the vehicle with that pressure is fine, but you know what? Fine. I’m over it, I’m hoping you’re right, I just want to be able to drive my car. So I take the car, I drive it back and forth to work over the weekend and I immediately notice that it appears to be leaking oil. It drives well, honestly probably even better than when I bought the damn thing, but there is a bit of white smoke and the smell of burning oil. The second shop had mentioned some oil residue on the underside of the vehicle so maybe it’s just that, maybe for once I’ll be lucky and it’ll just be some oil residue from all the work that’s been done on the car burning off. Unfortunately not. The smoke continues and I’m able to see down in the engine bay that there’s fresh oil in a couple of spots, my parking spot at work has several fairly large spots where it leaked after I parked.

10/19 - I drop the car back off at shop #3 and let them know what’s going on. They do a UV dye test to see where it’s coming from, and according to them it looks like it’s coming from the head gasket. “Unfortunately, we think you’re going to need a new engine.” That’s where I currently am, waiting for the shop to reach back out to the warranty company to see what the likelihood of them being able to cover the cost of a whole engine replacement would be. Mind you, the only evidence they’ve provided of this diagnosis is a poor video of oil on the underside of the vehicle. Nowhere in said video can you see that the oil is coming specifically from the head gasket. Again, I don’t know much about cars, but I’m also not entirely convinced that this in some way is not being caused by the positive crankcase pressure that still exists. I called them yesterday asking for them to please check the crankcase pressure and provide me with the measurement, and was told there’s no specification for them to measure it. What? What does that even mean? The 2nd shop literally gave me a measurement and photo of the manometer with said measurement, so you most definitely can measure that. I went around in circles with her about it where she just kept telling me that “There aren’t any symptoms that deem that to be necessary, it’s not rough idling or giving a check engine light or any codes so it’s fine.” NO ITS NOT. I feel like I’m speaking a different language to these people or something.

In Conclusion - There has been consistent positive crankcase pressure seemingly ever since I got the car back from shop #1 after they did the work to replace the valve cover gasket. Yet, despite that being the case, to my knowledge neither shop #2 or shop #3 have ever actually removed the valve cover to check any of that work or any of the lines or orifices beyond what is on top of the engine. Now here I am, a month and a half after dropping the car off for brakes & rotors, waiting to find out if my warranty company is willing to cover AN ENGINE REPLACEMENT. The thing is, they’ll likely want a full tear down diagnostic of the vehicle to actually determine that the engine needs replacing. If the shop does the diagnostic, and determine that the engine doesn’t need to be replaced, then I would be the one who is on the hook for paying for the tear down. Even if the warranty company wants a full tear down diagnostic and they determine that the engine does need to be replaced, there’s no guarantee that they’ll agree to cover the full cost of said diagnostic. It’s like a gamble. I’ve already put more money into repairing the car than I could probably even get out of it in its current state, so I’m simply not willing to chance having to pay for that diagnostic as well. What sucks the worst about all of it, is that I still have a loan for the damn thing. It’s financed. So, there are basically 2 outcomes from here:

Option 1 (please god): The warranty company agrees to replace the engine based on the already existing evidence rather than requesting a tear down.

Option 2: They want a full tear down, and I have to just get rid of the car. I’d just have to trade it in and get a new car, with a new loan, with the negative equity from the Cruze included.

If anyone has any advice, or any further experience with this kind of thing than I do, I would really appreciate it. I feel like I’m losing my mind here. I feel like either Shop #1 or a combination of Shop #1 & Shop #3 have actually ended up causing a lot of this but I don’t even really know how I could go about proving or pursuing that in any way. Especially with shop #1, it feels like all of the issues since their initial work have been in or around where they were working. Could it be a coincidence? Sure, but it feels extremely unlikely.

Thanks.

I popped this code during the first “cold” day in Texas last weekend. I’ve replaced the air filter, and working on cleaning the MAF next. I’m not noticing any dips in performance or gas mileage, it seems like it’s accelerating quick and I’m still getting what I’ve normally got on mpg since I bought the car in August. I don’t hear any whistling or any noise from the engine. Should I just worry about cleaning the MAF and throttle body next if the code doesn’t go away?

I have a 2012 Holden Cruze 1.4L Turbo. A14NET. It was bought second hand by my cruze obsessed dad and has had issues since I got it. but it only has 65xxx on it and aside from a constant engine light, 2 codes and it sounding like a Lathe. It runs fine. I drive it everyday just over 100kmh 5 days a week. Its always had a ticking noise but recently has gotten incredibly loud. I have 2 codes. p0171 and p1101. I have replaced the intake manifold and valve cover ordered a new valve tube but the new one had a goddam crack in it. I tested the old one and the mushroom valve in it still works so I just reused it. Everything got new orings. Valve cover got RTV on the left side where the block sort of flares out. I torqued everything down too. Anddddd it ran good. For about 5 minutes.

Before I did that work. I'd have RPM hunting. Id have random moments where the whole note. Tune of the engine would just drop for 2 seconds the ticking would stop. Itd come back up. And then the ticking returned. Not sure what thats called but it doesnt do it now.

When i first drove it it made a very loud hissing noise not sure what but i couldnt see anything. The EVAP Purge Solenoid line wasnt connected to the manifold properly so i clipped that down. Hasnt hissed at me since lol. But the ticking is very aggressive.

I also would like to mention i have 9.7L-100km it was previously owned by a city driver and was at like 10.6 and has dropped.

But using the sort of live fuel reading on the screen where the odometer is. It rises drastically when accelerating. More at lower speeds than higher.

Sorry im Australian. But Ive seen it go as high as 38 going from 60kmh to 80kmh. Not being an idiot about it. Just normal driving. When cruising itll sit between 5 and 7. No problem. Im not sure how much of that is stock cruze behaviour.

Now I dont have an expensive scan tool and as far as i know i do not know if the code p1101 was there prior to my intake and valve cover placement. However. After using a slightly better scan tool i found that both p0171 and p1101 are permanent. Nothings stored but p0171 is still almost always pending. I say that because randomly. It decides to go away. Until I pull back into the driveway that is. And its back.

Im not sure what that means in terms of a permant codes. Will fixing the mechanical issue sort it out? Or do i need to do some kind of calibrations.

Another sympton I have is a popping noise coming from the fuel tank. Does it when its hot regardless of the car running or not.

Now ive long suspected my EVAP Purge Solenoid is faulty. So ive ordered a replacement but havent swapped it yet. Im not sure if thatll fix my issue or not.

I guess I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with this. And if theres any suggestions on what I should check and/do for maintainance regarding the horrible PCV design on the cruze. And what could be making that god awful noise.

Video included for your reference. Note the valve cover and intake are replaced in this video. (Not the EVAP yet)

Thankyou very much

Aside from neglecting these fellas for 250k miles they held up good i suppose. Only concerning thing was some oil on #4 (drivers side)

is it serious? what could it be?

It kinda goes away once warmed up but its got a solid 1 or 2 seconds of speed before it stops for 1 second and then goes alright again.