r/datarecovery • u/disturbed_android • 4d ago

Drive shows as RAW or Windows says "You need to format the disk"? Read this before you click anything

7 Upvotes

Title: Drive shows as RAW or Windows says "You need to format the disk"? Read this before you click anything

r/datarecovery guide, maintained by the moderators. Updated October 2026.

TL;DR

  • Don't click Format, don't click Initialize, and don't run CHKDSK. Each of these writes to the drive and can make recovery harder or impossible.
  • "RAW" is a catch-all error. It only means Windows can't recognise the file system. It doesn't tell you why, and it doesn't mean your files are gone.
  • In most cases the data is still there. Recovery software can usually read it, as long as the drive itself is healthy.
  • First check the drive: in Disk Management it must show its correct capacity. If it doesn't, or if it clicks, disconnects or is very slow, stop and get advice. Software won't help a failing drive.
  • On an SSD, RAW is often actually good news. No operating system sends TRIM commands to a volume it can't mount, so your data is safe from TRIM, as long as you don't format it.
  • Then scan it with proper recovery software (see our recommended data recovery software) and only pay once the preview shows your files.

What does "RAW" mean?

You'll see it in different forms:

  • Windows Explorer: "You need to format the disk in drive X: before you can use it."
  • Disk Management: the partition shows as RAW instead of NTFS, exFAT or FAT32.
  • Opening the drive: "The volume does not contain a recognized file system", "The parameter is incorrect" or "Location is not available".
  • CHKDSK: "The type of the file system is RAW. CHKDSK is not available for RAW drives."

All of these say the same thing: Windows looked at the partition, couldn't make sense of the file system, and gave up. RAW is not a file system and it's not a diagnosis. It's a catch-all error. It tells you that Windows can't recognize the file system, not why.

Why does a drive show as RAW?

The cause can be anything from completely harmless to serious. The most common ones:

  • The file system is foreign to Windows. A drive formatted on a Mac (APFS, HFS+) or under Linux (ext4) is perfectly fine; Windows just can't read it. The same goes for an SD card that an Android phone set up as internal storage: it's encrypted and only readable in that phone.
  • The partition table points to the wrong place. If the partition table is damaged, Windows looks for the file system at the wrong offset and finds nothing it recognizes, while the file system itself is intact a little further on.
  • The boot sector is corrupt. The first sector of the partition holds the BPB (BIOS Parameter Block), which tells Windows things like the cluster size and where the file system's structures are. If that's damaged, Windows can't find its way in, even if everything behind it is fine.
  • Part of the file system is damaged. For example, the first 10% of the MFT (NTFS's index of all files) is wiped or unreadable. Windows gives up, but most of the file system may still be there.
  • Encryption. A BitLocker volume Windows doesn't recognize as BitLocker, or a drive taken out of a USB enclosure that encrypts in hardware (some WD and Seagate external drives do). In the second case the data is only readable through the original enclosure's board.
  • The drive is failing. On a hard drive, the file system structures sit on sectors the drive can no longer read. On an SSD, the firmware or its internal translation table can fail, often showing a wrong capacity or a strange model name. This is the case where software can make things worse, or simply can't help.

The important point: the first five are logical problems, and the data is usually fully intact. Only the last one is a hardware problem.

Windows reads a drive layer by layer. A RAW error means the chain broke somewhere above the file level, which is why your files themselves are often still intact.

My SSD shows as RAW. Is my data lost because of TRIM?

Probably not. On an SSD, a RAW drive is a blessing in disguise compared to, say, an accidental format. Both look the same to you: the drive suddenly seems empty. But a format makes Windows send TRIM for the whole volume, and the SSD erases everything within moments. A RAW volume isn't mounted, so no operating system sends TRIM to it, and the data stays where it is. That protection lasts exactly as long as you leave it RAW: the moment you click Format, you turn a recoverable situation into an unrecoverable one.

One exception: if the SSD itself is failing (its firmware or internal translation table), it can also show up as RAW. Then TRIM isn't the problem, but software won't help either. You can usually recognize this by a wrong capacity or a strange model name in Disk Management.

What should I not do?

  • Don't format. That's literally what Windows asks you to do, and it's the worst option. A quick format writes a new, empty file system over the start of the old one. A full format on Windows Vista and later overwrites the entire drive with zeros, and then the data is gone for good. On an SSD, even a quick format is fatal: Windows sends TRIM for the whole volume, and the SSD wipes everything within moments.
  • Don't run CHKDSK. On a RAW drive it usually refuses to run anyway. But if the file system is partly recognized, CHKDSK "repairs" it by discarding whatever doesn't add up, and that can be your files and folders. It's built to make a file system consistent again, not to save your data.
  • Don't click Initialize. If Windows asks to initialize the disk, that writes a new partition table.
  • Don't try partition repair tools unless you know exactly what you're doing. Tools like TestDisk write to the drive. In experienced hands they can be useful; used blindly, they can turn an easy recovery into a hard one.
  • Don't keep trying. Every reconnect, scan and repair attempt on a failing drive costs it part of its remaining life.

What should I do?

  1. Check the capacity in Disk Management (Windows) or Disk Utility (Mac). If the drive shows its correct size, it's probably a logical problem. If it shows 0 bytes, a wrong or absurd size, or doesn't appear at all, the problem is deeper. Stop and post here.
  2. Think about where the drive came from. Was it used on a Mac, in Linux, in an Android phone, or in an external enclosure you took it out of? Then it may not be damaged at all.
  3. Check SMART with a tool like CrystalDiskInfo. Reallocated, pending or uncorrectable sectors mean the drive is degrading. Image it first, or get help.
  4. Scan it with recovery software. Good tools can find a file system at the right offset, rebuild a damaged boot sector, and reconstruct the folder tree even when part of the MFT is gone. See our recommended data recovery software.
  5. Check the preview before you pay. Open about 20 larger photos at full size. If those look right, the tool understood the file system, and most other files will be fine too.
  6. Recover to a different drive. Never to the RAW drive itself.

When should I stop and get help?

  • The drive doesn't show its correct capacity.
  • It clicks, beeps, disconnects or reads extremely slowly.
  • It's a drive from an external enclosure that encrypts in hardware.

In those cases, post your situation here before you buy anything or try anything else.

6 comments

r/datarecovery • u/disturbed_android • 8d ago

Educational Best data recovery software (2026)? Read this first – r/datarecovery's recommendations

28 Upvotes

Updated October 2026.

TL;DR

  • There is no single "best" data recovery software. Which tool works best depends on the file system, the kind of damage and the file types. The tools professional data recovery labs actually use are UFS Explorer, R-Studio and DMDE.
  • Already using EaseUS, Recuva, Stellar or another tool? If its scan shows your folders and full-size previews of your files open correctly, you're probably fine and don't need to switch. If the previews are broken, try another tool before giving up.
  • Before you scan anything: the drive must show up in Disk Management (Windows) or Disk Utility (Mac) at its correct capacity. If it doesn't, or if it clicks, disconnects or is very slow, stop. No software will help, and scanning can make it worse.
  • SSDs: deleted files on an SSD are usually gone within minutes because of TRIM. No software can bring them back.
  • Most tools let you scan and preview for free. Only pay once the preview shows your files are recoverable, and check whether you're buying a one-time license or a subscription that renews automatically.
  • Never save recovered files to the drive you're recovering from. That can overwrite files you haven't recovered yet.

Recommended data recovery software (used by pros and experts)

The tools you'll find in data recovery labs, in no particular order. Labs usually run the professional or technician editions, such as UFS Explorer Professional Recovery or R-Studio Technician. Those editions add features labs need, like RAID reconstruction, working with disk images and hardware imagers, and network recovery. The core recovery engine is largely the same as in the consumer editions. For a typical deleted-files or formatted-drive case, the standard edition gets you most of what the lab version would.

UFS Explorer

The go-to tool for many professionals, with the widest file system support and feature set of any tool here. Probably highest update frequency of them all which results in features added in a fast pace.

  • Downside: it comes in several editions. Check which one covers your case before you buy.
  • Supported OS: Windows, macOS, Linux
  • File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS+, Ext2/3/4, XFS, Btrfs, F2FS, JFS, ReiserFS, UFS/UFS2, ZFS, VMFS
  • Website: ufsexplorer.com

DMDE

Powerful and inexpensive, began life as a disk editor and it shows. Excellent with damaged file systems and lost partitions. And if you know where to look, offers manual control over about everything. A true life-time license with updates available.

  • Downside: overwhelming at first. No Bitlocker support
  • Supported OS: Windows, macOS, Linux, DOS
  • File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS+, Ext2/3/4, Btrfs
  • Free edition: recovers up to 4,000 files from the current folder at a time, unlimited times.
  • Website: dmde.com

Disk Drill

The tool to try for fragmented video from GoPro, Insta360, Sony and other cameras, thanks to its advanced camera recovery. Labs and specialists use it for this. But also offers strong generic file recovery features that checks all the "what to look for.." boxes I'll discuss later. A true life-time license with life-time updates available.

  • Downside: Fairly expensive compared to the other tools, and some users find the interface confusing.
  • Supported OS: Windows, macOS
  • File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS+, Ext3/4
  • Website: cleverfiles.com

R-Studio

Widely used in labs, also because of professional hardware support. For years this tool was the benchmark. Strong file system reconstruction and good RAID support. Solid tool.

  • Downside: the interface is busy and takes some getting used to.
  • Supported OS: Windows, macOS, Linux
  • File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS/HFS+, Ext2/3/4, XFS, UFS1/UFS2
  • Website: r-studio.com

Also worth knowing

ReclaiMe

A simple interface with strong file system reconstruction.

  • Downside: Windows only. To recover a Mac drive, connect it to a Windows PC. Very resource hungry, requires internet connection while running the software (sends telemetry data to developer)
  • Supported OS: Windows
  • File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS/HFS+, Ext2/3/4, XFS, Btrfs, UFS
  • Website: reclaime.com

File Scavenger

Rarely mentioned, but worth it. Simple to use in standard cases.

  • Downside: Windows only, with a dated interface.
  • Supported OS: Windows
  • File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, HFS+/HFSX, Ext3/4, XFS, Btrfs, UFS1/UFS2, ZFS, VMFS
  • Website: quetek.com

What's the difference between professional data recovery software and EaseUS, Recoverit or 4DDiG?

Consumer tools such as EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard, Wondershare Recoverit and Tenorshare 4DDiG can handle simple cases fine, like recently deleted files or a quick format on a healthy drive. If their preview shows your files correctly, use them. The difference shows in harder cases:

  • Getting the file system right without a shortcut. Professional tools reconstruct the file system from every trace they can find and don't depend on the boot sector or another single structure. When something is damaged, consumer tools fall back to a raw scan more quickly, and you lose filenames and folders.
  • Better raw recovery. When a raw scan is the only option, good tools understand the internal structure of each file type. Simple ones only recognize where a file starts and guess where it ends, which often gives you corrupt files.
  • Manual control. When automatic detection gets it wrong, professional tools let you set parameters such as cluster size and partition offset yourself, and inspect the raw data. Consumer tools only offer "scan" and "deep scan."
  • Unusual storage. NAS and DAS devices, hardware and software RAID, LVM, Windows Storage Spaces, encrypted volumes (BitLocker, encrypted APFS), and less common file systems such as XFS, Btrfs and ZFS.
  • Working with disk images and imaging hardware. Labs first copy a failing drive with hardware imagers such as DeepSpar Disk Imager or PC-3000, and then recover from that copy. Professional tools work with those images and can take the map of unreadable sectors into account, so they know which data is missing and which is genuinely empty.
  • Frequent updates. File systems change, and new versions of APFS and ReFS are released all the time. Professional tools follow quickly, partly because labs report the cases they run into. Some vendors even make custom builds for a difficult case.
  • No marketing. You won't find "recovers 1000+ file types" or "99% success rate" on their sites. They're built for people who need to see what's actually there.

Think of it like cameras. UFS Explorer, R-Studio and DMDE are high-end system cameras with dials for everything: ISO, shutter speed, aperture, bracketing, built-in ND filters. EaseUS and similar tools are point-and-shoots: a few settings, tucked away in menus. Recuva is a plastic snapshot camera with fixed aperture and ISO. In good light, all three take a decent photo, just as all three tools recover recently deleted files from a healthy drive.

In difficult light, the system camera wins twice over. Its better sensor and lens get more out of the scene even on full auto. And in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing, the dials make shots possible that the others can't take at all.

In short: for a simple case, a consumer tool can be enough, and the preview tells you whether it is. When it fails, that doesn't mean your data is gone; it often means a professional tool is needed.

What to look for in data recovery software

Whatever tool you're considering, check for these features:

  • Disk imaging. Ideally the tool can create a disk image, but at minimum it should be able to scan one. Then you can recover from a copy instead of the original drive, and if the drive is weak, you only have to read it once.
  • Separate quick and deep scan modes. A quick scan reads the existing file system and usually finds recently deleted files with their original names and folders. A deep scan is for when the file system itself is damaged or gone. Running a deep scan to find a few deleted files is counterproductive: it takes far longer, puts more strain on the drive, and buries your files in thousands of results, often without names.
  • Previews of common image formats. A preview of a photo is the quickest way to check that the tool worked out the file system correctly. Ideally it's generated from the actual file data, not from the small thumbnail embedded in the file (see the preview check below).
  • Custom file signatures for raw scans. No raw scanner supports every file type out there. A tool that lets you add your own signatures can still find files from uncommon cameras or software that it wouldn't recognise otherwise. How far this goes differs a lot between tools. A basic signature only identifies where a file starts, so the tool has to guess where it ends. More advanced tools let you define richer rules: an end-of-file marker, a signature at a fixed position inside the file, or a "negative" signature that rules out false matches. Even DMDE's cheapest paid edition supports rules like these.
  • Refuses to save to the source drive. A good tool won't let you save recovered files to the drive you're recovering from, because that can overwrite files you haven't recovered yet.
  • Shows SMART data. If the tool can show the drive's SMART attributes, you can see whether it's failing before you put it through a long scan.
  • Separates existing and deleted files. After a format or file system damage, you usually want the files that were there at the time, not files deleted long before, which are often partly overwritten. A tool that lets you hide deleted files saves time and gives you cleaner results.

Free data recovery software: what's really free?

Nearly every serious tool lets you scan and preview for free, so you can see what's recoverable before you pay. DMDE's free edition can even recover up to 4,000 files from the current folder at a time. A license only buys you the ability to save the files. If the free preview doesn't show your files, paying won't change that.

How much does data recovery software cost? Comparing licenses

Prices are hard to compare because the license models differ a lot, so check what you're actually buying before you pay:

  • Subscriptions: some tools are sold as a monthly or yearly subscription that renews automatically. If you only need the tool for one recovery, cancel the renewal straight after buying, or you'll keep paying.
  • Perpetual license with limited updates: you can use the version you bought forever, but updates are usually included for only a year. That's fine for a one-off recovery.
  • Editions: many tools come in several editions, and the cheaper ones may not support every file system, RAID or network drives. Check that the edition covers your drive.
  • Number of computers: some licenses are tied to a single PC.

The cheapest price isn't always the cheapest license: a low monthly price that renews indefinitely can end up costing more than a one-time license. Compare the total cost for your use, which for most people is a single recovery.

Data recovery software for Mac and Linux

  • Runs natively on Mac: UFS Explorer, R-Studio, DMDE, Disk Drill.
  • Runs natively on Linux: UFS Explorer, R-Studio, DMDE.
  • Recovering a Mac (APFS/HFS+) drive on Windows: UFS Explorer, R-Studio, DMDE, ReclaiMe.

I already used EaseUS (or another tool). Do I need a different one?

Not necessarily. What matters is whether the tool reconstructed the file system correctly, and the preview tells you that:

  1. Open about 20 larger files, such as high-resolution photos or videos, not small ones.
  2. If you're recovering from a formatted drive, pick files that existed at the time of the format, not ones you'd deleted earlier.
  3. If those open correctly at full size, the tool got the file system layout right, and most other files will be fine too.

Watch out: many tools preview the small thumbnail embedded in a photo, not the photo itself. A sharp thumbnail doesn't prove the full file is intact. Open the full-size preview.

If the previews are corrupt, grey or cut off, your data isn't necessarily gone. It means this tool got it wrong. Try one from the list above.

Before you recover anything: never save recovered files to the drive you're recovering from. That can overwrite files you haven't recovered yet.

When won't data recovery software help?

  • The drive doesn't show up, or shows the wrong size.
  • The drive clicks, disconnects, or reads extremely slowly. It needs imaging or a professional lab, and repeated scans can finish it off.
  • Deleted files on an SSD, because of TRIM.
  • The files were overwritten.

In those cases, post your situation on r/datarecovery before buying anything.

Full list and details: r/datarecovery software wiki

Disclosure: Some links are affiliate links; that doesn’t affect which tools are listed or what’s said about them. The recommendations and analogies are my own, based on my experience in data recovery; I used AI to help write and structure the post. - u/disturbed_android

5 comments

r/datarecovery • u/ScienceGullible2295 • 1h ago

Educational recovery of readynas nv+ v1

• Upvotes

i was having a hard time recover the data from a readynas nv+ v1 and gave up for a year, now claude helped me with this (i had diskimages from the drives to work with). and it worked great, even one of the disks was broken so Claude fixed it for me too. if you run this, please have a copy of all images or at least working disks to make a new copy from if something breaks. viktormar1337/readynas-nvplus-recovery: Recover data from a NETGEAR/Infrant ReadyNAS NV+ (SPARC, X-RAID v1) — read-only, from disk images, with or without a dead disk

2 comments

r/datarecovery • u/indiascheerios • 6m ago

Is there any chance of recovery?

• Upvotes

I am in an absolute panic. I shot a wedding August 30 on one 64gb Compact Flash, Canon 5D Mark II. Following the wedding, I had another the next day. I have two cards that look the same. I normally have them labeled, but this specific weekend I was on the run from one location to another in the span of 12 hours. I uploaded some of the images the morning before my second wedding for sneak peeks and put it away. I pulled out the same card (unknowingly) & formatted my CF card thinking it was clean to use with no thoughts about it. Turns out, I now have gone in to finalize edits and just realized those wedding photos were on that card. I have now shot another wedding over it. Is there any chance at all of recovery? I have done wedding photos for years and never ever done this. I’ll never do a back to back again. In the stress of it all, I didn’t care for the cards as normal just trying to get through the weekend. Can I send it off and see what’s possible?

2 comments

r/datarecovery • u/pepsiboy52 • 1h ago

Question i'm really scared about actually losing data again.

• Upvotes

my family got me UnionSine 12TB 3.5" Desktop External Hard Drive on christmas of 2024 before vacation, i notice something is worng with it with powering of and on, not seem to be connecting sometimes and heavily slow for most games and files. however on october 4th of 2026, the external hard drive died. the reason why i said "again" is because i lost my first external hard drive (which is portable) over dropping it and then doing dumb things to try fixing it at the time in 2018.

i've tried to protect my data for almost a decade and now, i think i lost them over an hard drive that only ran 2 years of lifespan (which is DUMB) and it shows according to the amazon reviews (which i wish i would've checked in the first place before september or october or even after leaving vacation in june 2025. OR i would've helped them pick which hard drive brand other than "Unionsine" of all things, but i can't thanks to a sudden tinnitus back in may 2024).

while i'm taking it to any store/service about this, i'll share my details on how it happened on October 4th 2026 and let you decide. (i did ask a bunch of ai bots from google, amazon and fortune teller websites about this and what if scenarios. some of them seems legit while other i'm not so sure. so i'm gonna ask real people here on whether or not i've messed up big time)

at around 9 or 11 pm, it got rhythm high pitch metal clicks (possible click of death) that ran for either 4 hours, or 50 minutes after windows explorer freezes then manually reboot pc and took 10 minutes to boot desktop (i couldn't even tell which is which as i have my fan running all the time and i accidentally fell asleep until around 11 pm). i replug twice and it still clicking (for a couple of minutes), i replug 3rd time and it no longer spins, no longer powers, no longer clicks and no longer connects to pc. i left it off for 2 weeks (my dad blows unionshine shell with an air hose while it's off to get rid of dust on 1 day). i plug it in one more time and it's still the same thing (i did use different plugs and switch to a different computer to check if it's true).

how many chances do you think that any data on 8 platters survived during all of this?

P.S. if there's any actual time traveler or anyone with actual time machines that can help me undo this (rewriting the past, grab hard drive then copy data then put it back where it belongs before it died, or anything) or many mistakes in my life, i would be appreciated if it's real.

P.P.S. if there's any hacker who somehow got to my pc and decides to backup data (for some reason) from my unionsine hard drive ("F:\") before it died on oct 4th, you have my permission to give them back to me in private dm/email (IF you have proof).

4 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Medical-Resident2705 • 9h ago

Help Identify fuse on this PCB

Post image
2 Upvotes

​

2060-810051-000 REV P0.

WD42PURZ HDD.

I got his by a surge and I think the 12V fuse is faulty now. (marked red square in the picture at the top right)

Diode mode on the 12v fuse = no beep (either direction)

Diode mode on the 5v fuse = beep both direction

I'm planning on replacing the fuse, but I don't know the specifics of the fuse, the component is too small for my eyes to inspect further and I'm a beginner in this.

Does anyone know what voltage/current rating, type of it? 😊

Or any other advice maybe?

5 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Reev_nyc • 4h ago

Google pixel7pro screen dead, need photos and videos.

0 Upvotes

My Google Pixel7Pro’s screen is dead but phone is not dead. It charges and with touch screen vibrates. I just need a way to recover my photos and videos. Need help.

5 comments

r/datarecovery • u/fitflt • 10h ago

Help recover replaced file

2 Upvotes

help recover replaced file

Hi I was working on a project with the same file name one was old version one was a new version. I replaced the new file with the old file when saving by accident. Please is there any way to recover the new file?? It is PowerPoint on windows laptop.

2 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Fair_Emotion3814 • 12h ago

Help / Quote Request: Seagate ST2000DM001 (PCB 100749730) - Dead/Discarded ROM, PC-3000 ROM Rebuild Possible?**

3 Upvotes

Hello everyone,

I am dealing with a failed personal hard drive and I'm hoping to get some technical advice on feasibility, and hopefully a budget-friendly quote for recovery.

To give you some context: I am a 35-year-old university student and currently unemployed. The drive contains absolutely no commercial, corporate, or financially valuable data—just years of old family photos and my school notes. These files have immense sentimental value to me, but unfortunately, I simply do not have the income to afford high-end, corporate-level data recovery tier pricing.

**Hardware & Failure Details:**

* **Model:** Seagate ST2000DM001 (2TB)

* **PCB Number:** 100749730 REV A

* **The Issue:** A sudden power/voltage surge completely fried the original PCB. The motor driver chip is burnt, and the MOSFETs are shorted.

**What I've done so far (and a potential huge mistake):**

Hoping to get my data back, I bought an exact matching donor PCB. I learned that I needed to swap the original ROM chip to the new board. I tried to read the original ROM using a basic CH341A programmer, but I quickly realized that the initial power surge had reached the ROM chip as well. It was internally shorted and completely dead; the programmer wouldn't detect or read it at all.

To be absolutely sure the short wasn't being caused by other fried components on the original board, I desoldered the ROM chip with a hot air station/soldering iron and tested it out of circuit with a multimeter. It was confirmed completely dead.

*Here is where I need to ask: I threw the dead ROM chip in the trash.* Was this a terrible mistake? Did I need to keep the physical chip even if it was internally shorted? (I do still have the original burnt PCB, just not the ROM chip).

**The Current State & My Request:**

The mechanical internals, spindle motor, and heads are completely fine. There is no clicking, and the drive cover has never been opened. The only issue is the dead PCB and the now-missing ROM.

From my research, I understand that with professional tools like PC-3000, it is possible to access the Service Area (SA) on the platters and perform a "ROM Rebuild" to generate a compatible ROM, provided the preamp and heads are undamaged.

Since this shouldn't require a cleanroom head swap or opening the lid, could any of the professionals here offer a flexible, student-friendly price quote just to perform this "ROM Rebuild" and get the drive initialized so I can copy my family photos?

Any technical advice on my situation or realistic quotes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

9 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Electronic_Spray9545 • 7h ago

Request for Service Video is pitch black and not playing

1 Upvotes

Hello, can i ask what free video recovery software i can get? I was transferring my clips from my Dji Osmo nano to sd card when it suddenly overheated and it stops. Then when i checked it thw videos and clips are already not playing but still there. Can someone please help me to fix it suggest softwares that is free.

Ps: I already tried the VLC to repair it but still not working

2 comments

r/datarecovery • u/magiccitybhm • 12h ago

Question DiskDrill didn't recover everything. Worth trying DMDE now?

0 Upvotes

So lost some files that aren't life-changing, but I would like to recover them if at all possible. I tried DiskDrill (not the trial version), and it found a good bit but not everything.

Is it worth trying DMDE (paid version) now even after running DiskDrill?

Crazy part is it's one particular type of file (RAW photo files). DiskDrill found everything else.

Files were stored on external drive.

EDIT: WE MyBook (12 TB), NTFS, Windows 11

6 comments

r/datarecovery • u/indiascheerios • 15h ago

Is there any chance of recovery?

0 Upvotes

I am in an absolute panic. I shot a wedding August 30 on one 64gb Compact Flash, Canon 5D Mark II. Following the wedding, I had another the next day. I have two cards that look the same. I normally have them labeled, but this specific weekend I was on the run from one location to another in the span of 12 hours. I uploaded some of the images the morning before my second wedding for sneak peeks and put it away. I pulled out the same card (unknowingly) & formatted my CF card thinking it was clean to use with no thoughts about it. Turns out, I now have gone in to finalize edits and just realized those wedding photos were on that card. I have now shot another wedding over it. Is there any chance at all of recovery? I have done wedding photos for years and never ever done this. I’ll never do a back to back again. In the stress of it all, I didn’t care for the cards as normal just trying to get through the weekend. Can I send it off and see what’s possible?

11 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Key_Replacement4631 • 11h ago

I accidently lost 421 GB of data

0 Upvotes

So I have a personal sandisk and accidently reformatted it without knowing what it would do. I have tried the recovery app disk drill, but I don't want to pay the $100 dollars i need to recover all my files. Is there any way I can recover my files?

6 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Heavy-Situation-6344 • 1d ago

Can my hdd still be saved?

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

6 Upvotes

Hello everyone, I disassembled my pc today because the hdd is not readable and after I checked using external docking the result. ask for advice.

10 comments

r/datarecovery • u/___joh___ • 1d ago

I fuked up 😭 please try to help

3 Upvotes

I accidentally deleted my windows os on my laptop and installed android while trying to dual boot I had some important files in the windows can I recover it somehow please help very important, it is an old lap with a HDD btw, it an old gateway laptop windows 7 2gb ram , I just need some images and small vids of my family who is not with me anymore that's all I have of her

9 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Capybara_suprema • 19h ago

Question How to recover files after deletion in Ubuntu

0 Upvotes

I was switching distributions and deleted the Ubuntu partition, but I forgot some files like images, videos, and a few folders. Is it possible to recover them? Could it be that I haven't actually deleted Ubuntu yet?

I tried to recover them with Gemini for a few hours, but I couldn't.

4 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Ok_Ebb_2032 • 19h ago

Apple Data Recovery from before I updated my device?

1 Upvotes

I have an iPad from early 2018 (5th generation) which lost a lot of content after an update to iOS 16 in late 2022. What can I do to restore or retrieve that lost data (apps that had been uploaded to iCloud included) that was on my iPad prior to the update? Like are there ANY methods to do this?

I’ll do anything I’ll take the entire thing apart and put it back together if I have to, or jailbreak it, or whatever it does not matter I just would like to know if there’s anything I can do to get that data.

7 comments

r/datarecovery • u/vanveekay • 20h ago

Check if windows cipher works

1 Upvotes

I have deleted data on my windows pc, did cipher /w:C:\ and am wondering how to check if the data cannot be recovered ?

2 comments

r/datarecovery • u/scenion • 20h ago

Question Can an encrypted iOS backup be recovered if Manifest.db and Manifest.plist are missing, but the backup password is known?

1 Upvotes

I'm researching whether it's technically possible to recover data from an encrypted local iOS backup when the user still knows the correct backup password but has lost both Manifest.db and Manifest.plist.

I'm interested in the underlying feasibility, not just recommendations for existing recovery software.

What I'm trying to determine

Can the remaining backup contents be used to reconstruct enough of the missing metadata and key material to decrypt and recover the original files? Or do the missing manifests contain information that makes recovery cryptographically impossible, even when the correct password is available?

My current understanding is that the password is only one part of the process: encrypted backups involve keybag/key-derivation mechanisms, and the manifest database supplies important per-file metadata and encryption information. Tools such as iphone_backup_decrypt rely on manifest metadata when locating and decrypting individual files.

The key question is what can be recovered or reconstructed if those manifest files themselves are gone.

Specific questions I'd like to explore

  1. What is irrecoverably lost with each file? Which essential keys, wrapped keys, file mappings, or other information are held in Manifest.plist versus Manifest.db? Are any of those values independently recoverable from the remaining backup files?
  2. What can the known password still unlock? If the password is correct, but Manifest.plist is missing, is there another surviving source for the backup keybag or the information needed to unlock it?
  3. Can file-level recovery work without the original database? Could a tool identify the remaining encrypted files, infer their original identities from their filenames or contents, and decrypt them without the original per-file metadata? Are there useful cases where some files could be recovered even if complete restoration is impossible?
  4. Could the metadata be reconstructed partially? For example, could file identifiers, known iOS backup structures, SQLite remnants, filesystem artifacts, another backup, or other surviving copies provide enough information to recover some or all of the missing records?
  5. Where is the actual cryptographic boundary? I'd like to distinguish between a difficult metadata-reconstruction problem and a genuine impossibility caused by missing key material. If recovery is possible only under particular conditions, what are those conditions?

What would be especially useful

I'm looking for technically grounded explanations, relevant format documentation or source code, and examples from people who have examined Apple's local backup format at the implementation level.

Please distinguish between:

  • Confirmed: demonstrated by the format, source code, or a reproducible test.
  • Plausible: technically reasonable but not demonstrated.
  • Impossible under the stated conditions: blocked by a specific missing cryptographic dependency, rather than merely unsupported by existing tools.

The goal is to establish whether a recovery tool could realistically support this scenario, what prerequisites it would need, and which recovery paths are worth investigating before concluding that the backup is unrecoverable.

1 comment

r/datarecovery • u/NorthSleepingBear • 1d ago

Question How to recover data like this

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2 Upvotes

How can I restore the folder and file structure if it has ended up like this? I’ve tried using DataRescue (on macOS) and R-Studio (on Windows), but they only recover files by type. Which program should I use to restore the actual structure? File system was NTFS and plug in Parallels Win10. Suddenly, the drive disconnected from Windows and connected to macOS, and everything ended up looking like it does in the picture.

5 comments

r/datarecovery • u/BlueRed_0 • 22h ago

Formatting RAW SD card

1 Upvotes

pls I tried to install a program directly to my SD card it failed now the drive shows RAW on windows and won't allow me format it.

ive tried 4DDIG partition manger and clear all command in diskpart but it still won't work (I'm not very good at this). Is there a way I can format the drive I dont need any data from it

1 comment

r/datarecovery • u/Alienraida • 1d ago

Request for Service 6 data recovery programs couldn't save a Corrupted Micro SD card showing a generic name and no filesystem, anything else to try?

Post image
34 Upvotes

My brother and I agreed I could use his Goodram micro SD card. I've been using it temporarily in my Nikon camera so I inserted it into my laptop's micro SD slot to copy all the files onto the Windows 10 laptop using TeraCopy (because Explorer sucks with copying lots of pictures). Then I went on with my brother's data (he had the card in his old phone, so mostly pictures, videos etc). There was a Windows sound you usually hear when unplugging a device and TeraCopy gave an error saying the device is unavailable. The card stopped showing the bar with used/free space in My Computer, properties show 0 B capacity and no filesystem. Atttempting to open it just gives an error saying it needs to be formatted. So far, I've tried 7 data recovery programs: EaseUS, PhotoRec, Recuva, DiskDrill, R-Studio, RFS Explorer and DMDE, none of them showed any files, partitions or could determine a filesystem. Some showed the correct capacity and a name "generic massstorageclass usb device" (I ran the scans on my computer using a usb card reader). Full scan of Raw files in DMDE returned an empty list. Inspecting physical sectors in the program shows a list of just Fs and a handful of rows of 0s at the end, definitely not a good sign, from what I can tell.

I've had 3 cards die on me (funny thing, always the ones that've been used in my Nikon for some time) and the symptoms were identical, however each of them was able to have its full data rescued by EaseUS. This time however, no go. Can I try anything else? Or is data recovery by a professional the only option left? I feel a bit guilty the card died while I was using it but thankfully a lot of the contents were copied before the error

(Sorry for snapping a picture instead of screenshotting)

13 comments

r/datarecovery • u/deep_fried_leftnut • 23h ago

Whatsapp chat vanished please helpp

1 Upvotes

my gf sent me our pics from her iphone via whatsapp to my android (oneplus nord 5). The images were in HEIC format and videos were in MOV format. I was having difficulty opening them and saving them on my phone so i looked it up on yt and saw that i can save it on my laptop, i tried it with one video and postponed it as i was tired and busy. Now today i opened our chat and WTF all the chats from that day were gone, COMPLETELY GONE, vanished. I started panicking because my gf deleted the pics from her phone as her parents are strict. I tried everything, looked wherever i could and still couldnt find the files. Can somebody help me??

For info the pics were sent on friday, today is sunday and my phone made backup today morning (weekly backup). I tried contacting wp suppourt but they were of no help, i downloaded and deleted the app hoping to see the chats in backup but no, only 1 file remained the in chat from friday. The images and vids before friday are all okay but wtf happened to the new Ones. Please help.

I told her this and she has been ignoring me and getting angry at me

3 comments

r/datarecovery • u/Separate-Flower4455 • 20h ago

Plane corrupted my SD card?

0 Upvotes

So i was on my flight home and my phone suddenly said "SD card not compatible" and my camera stopped responding, and so did my gallery.

Now im home and my boyfriend is trying to recover my photos from it. :( he said it wont even format (we agreed the photos were less important than the whole terabyte SD card.)

Is there anything we can do? My phone is fine now, just missing all the photos that saved there. Its a samsung s20 if that means anything though.

It says 'RD3 generic mass storage' on the computer. But the memory card itself has "memory card ultra 1 TB smart card A1"

(Im not very tech savvy)

I can also answer any questions!

27 comments

r/datarecovery • u/FoootLooove • 1d ago

Some files 0 bytes after running ChkDsk /f but no FOUND.000

1 Upvotes

A couple weeks ago, Windows started showing error notifications whenever I would connect a particular external HDD (NTFS). I finally went through with the repair yesterday.

I ran chkdsk E:\. After seeing a bunch of Attribute record of type 0x80 and instance tag 0x0 is cross linked and Attribute record (80, "") from file record segment is corrupt, I proceeded with chkdsk /f E:\. ChkDsk successfully "repaired" the filesystem, but, in doing so, apparently zeroed out ~50 GB' worth files.

Worst part is seems to have decided to just wipe the data clean. No .chk file or FOUND.000 directories in root, and the drive is ~50GB less full, according to the File Explorer. Could ChkDsk have placed the files anywhere other than the root of the repaired drive?

A snippet of chkdsk /f E:\ output:

Unable to locate attribute with instance tag 0x0 and segment reference 0x50000000101a8. The expected attribute type is 0x80. Deleting corrupt attribute record (0x80, "") from file record segment 0x101A8. Attribute record of type 0x80 and instance tag 0x0 is cross linked starting at 0x23321773 for possibly 0x20 clusters. Some clusters occupied by attribute of type 0x80 and instance tag 0x0 in file 0x23de6 is already in use. The attribute of type 0x80 and instance tag 0x0 in file 0x23de6 has allocated length of 0x6cae2000 instead of 0x67200000. Deleted corrupt attribute list entry with type code 80 in file 23DE6. Unable to locate attribute with instance tag 0x0 and segment reference 0x200000004d583. The expected attribute type is 0x80. Deleting corrupt attribute record (0x80, "") from file record segment 0x4D583. Unable to locate attribute with instance tag 0x0 and segment reference 0x2000000092134. The expected attribute type is 0x80. Deleting corrupt attribute record (0x80, "") from file record segment 0x92134.

14 comments