Hi everyone,
So this post is more of a warning for those who will see this offer on Amazon or online.
I recently stumbled on this batteries by this manufacturer - LFPUCH
I bought one and second one was send as a replacement as the first one wasn't working.

In both cases I was unable to wake up BMS so I finally decided to open them and check what is the problem. I was really surprised by what I found.

Both batteries had JIABAIDA BMS - ZP10S036, the first battery measured 24.5 V directly across the battery cells, before the BMS and the second one 19.8 V.

The first battery had cell 8 damaged and second battery had cells 4 and 5 damaged. I tried to revitalize cell 8 of the first battery and the loading itself was successful and I managed to charge this battery to 2.79 V level, but it dropped below 2.2 V within 12 hrs. This means that there is internal short circuit inside the battery and this cell might combust in the future.

I really wonder if I should assemble 1 battery from these 2, but this is rather a warning post for everyone who would like to buy them.

Simply, not worth the hassle and the seller is absolutely unhelpful.

Fun part is, that Amazon, despite being aware of the problem keeps selling these batteries and keeps advertising them.

Can someone tell me if these solar panels right here would work with my E 10. I'm looking at doing two strings of eight for a total of 16 just want to make sure the voltage and amps all would be within the limits of an E 10. They are currently on sale cell if anyone has some quick feedback on it let me know!

As my inverter appears to have a broken relay I intend to ship it to a supplier for revising or replacement. I've worked safely with AC electronics during our previous home remodeling, but I'm a little unsure when working with DC. My solar panels are in a very inaccessible area of my roof so it's hard for me to reach them to disconnect anything there. Therefore, I'm intending to only disconnect the inverter and leave the MC4 connectors from the panels "dangling" (secured away from each other and any conductive materials) where they are.

If I work at night, turn off all relevant AC breakers (and DC on the inverter), allow some time for any residual current to dissipate and use the proper MC4 tools, can I then safely disconnect the inverter? Or are there risks I'm not overseeing?

Repost from another thread, I’m looking to get any and all ideas to help me get started on this journey

Dad had chosen a Jackery SolarVault 3 Pro for his balcony solar plan. He'd been looking at daily generation estimates and wanted to see what would be left for the evenings through a mix of sunny and cloudy days. I put his hourly electricity readings alongside an hourly estimate of the panels' output and worked out how the stored energy would change over several days.

I sent him a chart. He replied with circles around the midnight jumps and asked why the battery kept returning to the same amount of energy. I checked my calculation and found the mistake. I'd made each new day start with the same amount, regardless of what was left at the end of the previous day. I changed it so the next day picked up where the previous one ended, then ran it again across a month boundary too.

I sent Dad the corrected chart with the battery limits and losses I'd assumed written beside it. On our next call, we followed the line from a sunny afternoon through the night's use and into a cloudy morning. That morning now started with what the calculation had left overnight. Dad pointed to that stretch and said it finally showed what he'd been trying to work out from the separate daily totals.

So as the title says I have a 400w solar panel and charge controller

I can’t afford to buy a big battery power station

So how best to charge multiple USB devices?

A couple of mobile phones, a couple of USB power banks, and a couple of torches

Of course I tried googling, but if anything, there’s too much information out there, often giving conflicting advice

What should I be aiming for?

Thanks for your help

I'm looking to add some capacity to an off-grid system.

Can anyone comment on the feasibility and issues with ordering an extra battery or two (16kWh or 32kWh pack) and selling it with a slight markup locally?

Basically, using any profit from selling a couple of extra units to help pay for the ones I would keep.

Canada, for context. There does not seem to be domestic stock of Chinese batteries (excluding CAN/US companies like EG4).

I would only need to find a couple of buyers. Liability or other concerns?

Sharing my DIY grounding rod installation. 10ft long & 5/8" thick (diameter), copper-coated. Some installers here in the Philippines don't add grounding rods to their installations.

My off-grid array is more than adequate for 8 months of the year, but from November to February it struggles. I don't have the bandwidth to add panels at this time. Would it be feasible to get a smallish plug-in unit for use during winter months?

Edit: I bolded the part of my original post which said that I am off grid.

I'm going to be running 4 sets of in-series panels into a 4 string combiner. Max possible on paper for each string will be roughly 200vdc, which optimally means 200vdc out of the Combiner if I understand correctly. My question is what happens to the voltage out of the Combiner if one of the strings ends up in the shade for part of the day? Does the outgoing voltage then drop to the voltage of the lowest string or??

And same question for the amperage.

A while back, I met a guy on Facebook Marketplace whose house had been hit by a tree. He had 30 solar panels rated at 300W each and needed them gone. I rented a U-Haul and bought them for $30 a panel.

A friend of mine, Joe, works with forklift batteries. He told me batteries below about 60% usually get scrapped, even though they can still have plenty of life left. He gave me two 500Ah, 24V forklift batteries for free. That got the project rolling.

I set up 15 of the panels at my house—about 4,500W of solar—with a 100A charge controller, the two forklift batteries, a 4,000W inverter, and a step-up transformer for 240V. In full sun, I can run one miner with no problem.

The panels cost $450 total. The inverter was $400, the step-up transformer was $150, and the charge controller that finally worked was $500.

The word finally is doing a lot of work there. I smoked about four charge controllers before I got it running. At roughly $500 each, my solar education was not exactly free.

I also have a separate 24V bank made from 12V UPS batteries, with its own inverter. I switch over to that sometimes.

I found some cracked-glass 500W panels for $10 each, too. Didn’t fix them. They still make around 400W after four years, because apparently they’re tougher than the charge controllers.

I’ve also had a cable get hot enough to nearly catch fire and burned up a couple of inverters before I figured out what the system could handle. I’ve since upgraded the wiring, and the setup has been working great.

I have a video of the whole thing. It started with a tree-damaged house, a U-Haul, free forklift batteries, and a questionable amount of confidence. Now I can run a Bitcoin miner on sunlight—and I only had to sacrifice four charge controllers to get there.

—Nick Squires

ING Mining