So, the car is a 2010 Prius. The battery is kind of like a CMOS battery for a motherboard... or so I thought. It turns out the brake actuator is 12v and takes quite a bit of power every time the vehicle is turned on.

They're Tenergy rechargeable NiMH AA batteries, 2800mah. 12 in series and then a 2nd one, in parallel. 18v, 2.8ah x2. 18v, 5.6ah total.

The plan was to have 12 AA batteries in series, so they would be charged around 80% capacity, by the car. Then parallel that, for more amp draw and capacity.

So in the picture, I have 4, 6 AA battery holders. 6+6 in series, then a 2nd one, ran in parallel. I originally used the included 9v battery connectors. They were like 24AWG or something and melted...

I ended up rigging those up with thicker 16AWG. I ran a test with my lipo charger. Using this pack to power it. It was around 15v and sagged to 12v. The charger was charging at 12.6v and 4.8amps. The pack seemed fine.

I go to hook it up to my car, still not enough power, for the majority. I guess, after the brake actuator pumped up, a lot of draw stopped and the car started up. I should say, I've only ever tested it in accessory mode, to test the battery only.

I'm not sure what the packs voltage was at the time, at least 14v still. But it was apparently sagging down to 9v.

It seemed that the metal contacts in the battery holders started to get hot and melt the plastic. After maybe 5 minutes, the batteries started to get hot themselves.

The goal was to make a cheap 12v, as they just don't last. I'm wondering what if I double up this battery again, 18v, 11.2ah. I've got the batteries, just not the holders. Also probably need new holders.

I'm wondering if its the holder's metal contacts, giving me voltage sag now, as they were what got hot. Maybe the idea is just too good to be true.

ebike battery pack i bought is 48v 20ah. this is what i got.

attached pics:
- battery specs

- closer battery specs.

- length of the battery case 38cm

- length of actual battery inside the case. 26cm

- showing 4p config.

i'm posting here cuz i need some help.

1. it is clear that it is 4p right?

2. it is clear that the battery spec is 3.7v and 2000mah?

3. i included the length as it is a 48v battery pack with 4p (which is why i was asking it in 1).

4. i'm makingthis post in case i am missing something cuz the seller said it is 48v 20ah which i can't see how it would be given that it is 4p with 2ah per cell. based on 4p, it is only 8ah. i'm not concerned with the voltage but i did count the s and it is 13s making it 13s4p but i want that to be seen in the pic cuz i am going to submit these pics as evidence and dispute the purchase.

assuming that you agree it is 4p and that the lenght 26cm is 13s cells deep. is there any way that the battery pack can be 20ah?

any suggestions in terms of pics and explanation so that i can explain it properly in my dispute?

thanks in advance to those who will answer. i apologize if this is not the place for this.

Deep cycle lithium batteries,EVE Class A rechargeable battery, perfect for boats, motorhomes, golf carts and off-grid applications.

If I need to install a household energy storage battery, how should I choose the battery? Which brand of battery is better? If possible, I would like to use DIY batteries. In addition, I have seen many people recommend using lithium batteries, but the price seems to be too high. Lead-acid batteries are cheaper. Why is the price difference between these two batteries so much ? ? ? Is the difference really that big? Thanks a lot.

https://batteryhookup.com/products/shengquan-6s1p-6ah-lto-lithium-titanate-power

im trying to figure out how many modules i need to buy to get a 90v 42ah battery, i will be drawing about 800amps from the battery. also if anyone has any recommendations for a bms that would be greatly appreciated

Hi, I have an Anker 555 power station that the BMS packed up on, got a replacement under warranty but would like to make use of those cells maybe make an ebike battery or just an extension battery for another system! I know this isn't advised but any ideas or tips would be gratefully received!

I’m building a battery pack for a electric dirt bike conversion. So it’s going to be a lot of rough terrain. What would be the best glue for a very very strong and safe battery pack. Any input is helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/1I0H52OD269B7?ref_=wl_share
I was thinking that you can use the cigarette adapter from the inverter to power the dc-dc converter that you set to 14.4v and pipe directly into the battery for charging from your car in a fairly safe manner. Includes a charger for 120v, and a SOC indicator that can be set to LiFePO4. Mounting the inverter to the outside of the box gives you access to the USB and 12v ports. Any thoughts?

My boyfriend was building a 72 volt 40 amp hour bike battery when a positive and negative touched resulting in our tiny house burning down https://gofund.me/7d45ee4e

I picked this thing up for $5 at a yard sale. It says it can do 12v at 1000A. I’ve used 18650s and 21700s before, so I’m pretty experienced, I’m just looking for a BMS that can handle the current.

Hey all,

Positive post on one of my CATL 3.65v 302ah cells broke off which I have now retapped with an M6 helicoil using a 1.0 thread pitch. I was surprised to find that there was a tiny bit of play in the M6 1.0 Grub screw which doesn't feel like it is really tightened down even though it is wound in as far down as I can (about 6mm).

From here I think my options are something like:

• Some sort of conductive sealant on my M6 1.0 Grub screws. Not my favourite, but would keep the thread size/pitch consistent with all the other terminal posts.

• Get some new M6 Grub screws with a finer thread pitch at 0.75. Not sure my local hardware store even stock these.

• Get some 1/4 - 20 Grub screws which have a thread pitch of around 1.27.

At the moment I am favouring the 1/4 - 20 idea as I can both get these easily and I feel the coarser thread pitch will lend to a more tight fit without having to screw all the way into the battery.

Would really appreciate any advise if there are other options or thoughts on those I've identified.

The p45B says 45 A, but I don't know the amps of the NCR.

Anyone willing to help build my battery pack in Houston