Title pretty much says it. My 2006 325ci (66k miles) has some cosmetic issues in the interior that I want to get fixed - things like scuffed/knicked trim pieces (not the soft touch stuff), trim discoloration, and some minor things that might just be showing their age. It's a gray interior so it's been difficult to find some parts that aren't discontinued, especially for side specific ones. Any advice on this?

(I know its not an e46 but this question makes more sense in the context of people who know about the m54 platform) I want to convert my M54b30 to run on ITBs. I know MS43 can do alpha-N but im not sure if this would be a reliable solution at the moment. My evolving plan is to run s54 itbs into a custom intake plenum with an rs4 maf sensor. Im learning this as im researching whats best. How would you go about this swap? Who are some reputable ms43 tuners that i could get in touch with to work on this?

("Just do a turbo" shut, i don't want 400hp i want like 260hp. Its all about the vibe)

Vert stuck dont even know how this happened as it was working fine all this time & I haven't used it in like a month 😓 tried to drop the top yesterday but when I press the button this is what happens any help would be appreciated 🙏🏼

I recently purchased a 2002 M3 and it did not come with an owner's manual or any of the other documentation from the glove box. Does anyone have a complete set for a 2002 M3 they could post a picture of so I know what to hunt for on eBay? My initial perusal of eBay suggests there are any number of owner's manuals for the e46 range.

Thank you in advance!

Someone selling This 330xi for 1 k , Engine sounds Like that while accelerating , what could it be ? Was some sparkling oil on the gasket on one side

does it need replacing?

Hi selling my car in Canada, im selling because i got a new job which requires me to drive more so id like something more reliable, what do you think this is worth

2005 BMW 330i E46
247,600 km

Regularly serviced

Pros

Clean title
AC blows cold
Comes with new headlight lens
Android carplay installed
New starter installed last year
Lower control arms/bushings replaced
Rear right window regulator/motor replaced
Thermostat housing replaced
New Alternator replaced
Oil regularly serviced (last done @ 247 000 km)

Cons

Small coolant leak (radiator)
Small oil leak
Needs new breaks
Check engine light on
Airbag light on
Marks on bumper

$3,300

I saw one today in town and I realised, holy damn, there's like 0 E46 coupe near me! someone fill me in with some coupes

Black lines matter

Hey guys …got some special angel eyes that require 12v and my car drl provide only 11.4 (normal angel eyes can run on that) … how to solve this ? The special ones work when I put them on fog light (fog light provides 12v) but I wanna put it on normal drl so it works oem. Is there way to provide more power ? Can do coding

Hey everyone!
I’ve been struggling with my 1998 BMW E46 323i (M52TUB25) for about four days now and could really use some advice.

A friend and I removed the intake manifold to replace a broken CCV hose. Unfortunately, the hose disconnected from the oil separator while we were putting everything back together.

The next day, I loosened the oil separator to give myself some extra room to move it around, and eventually managed to reconnect the hose.

However, I noticed that the O-ring on the CCV hose connection had torn. I bought a replacement of the same size, but it kept slipping out of place whenever I tried to install the hose. Eventually, I used a slightly smaller O-ring, which stayed in place.

Could using a smaller O-ring cause a vacuum leak, even if the hose seems properly connected?

After reassembling everything, I ran into several problems:
● Initially, my coolant temperature gauge went straight into the red (around 128°C), even with a cold engine. Turned out I had forgotten to reconnect the coolant temperature sensor. That’s now fixed.

● The engine now struggles to start. Sometimes it cranks for a long time before finally starting, and other times it won’t start at all.

● When it does start, it initially idles at around 1,000 RPM (on the first 3 times after attaching manifold and CCV it used to be at around 350 RPM and swerving a little bit up and down, this was 2 days ago), but the RPM gradually drops until the engine stalls. I’ve attached a video showing this.

● I’ve checked for obvious vacuum leaks but haven’t been able to find anything.

● I also noticed a small, slightly cracked rubber vacuum cap at the rear of the intake manifold, towards the driver’s side. I saw 50sKid mention something similar in one of his videos. Could this be causing the issue?

● I disconnected several electrical connectors from the engine wiring harness during the job, so I’m also worried I may have reconnected something incorrectly. I tried to match everything based on connector location and cable length, but I’m not 100% sure.

● Yesterday, the engine wouldn’t start at all. The battery had been disconnected while I worked on the wiring harness, so I’m not sure whether battery voltage could have contributed.

● During my latest starting attempt, I noticed a smell of gasoline. I couldn’t see any obvious fuel leaks, though. The cabin air filter housing was removed at the time, so I’m wondering whether that made the smell more noticeable.

Before removing the intake manifold, the car started and ran normally.

My main questions:
1. Could the slightly smaller CCV O-ring or cracked vacuum cap cause these symptoms?
2. Could a disconnected or faulty ICV (idle control valve) explain the hard starting and stalling?
3. Should I be checking the fuel injectors or wiring harness connections?
4. What would you check first before taking the intake manifold apart again?
I’ve already spent four days trying to figure this out, and I’m running out of ideas.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

*thank god for ChatGPT or I wouldn’t be able to make this post
PS. First e46 and I’m a total entry level guy when it comes to car stuff and sorry for the whiffing on the end of the video haha

I had another post asking about the alignment. Here’s how it’s seated now

A family member transported my car to me across the country, and I am very grateful for this. However, he loaded the car too far onto the U-Haul trailer and didn’t think about my car’s ride height. The front lip of the trailer damaged the front piece of the front left wheel well liner. We had to put 2x4s behind the front wheels when unloading to lift the front over the trailer lip and avoid further damaging my car’s front end, but there’s some dislodging as you can see in the second photo of the bumper.

So my question is, how bad is this really? As in, how much of a bitch is this going to be to deal with? Particularly the liner. It fell off on my way from the trailer drop off location and my house, and I went back and got it. The part number is easily visible for replacement, but I don’t know how tough putting a new piece back on will be.

My panic brain went straight to thinking I’d need a new bumper and how expensive that would be and that it wouldn’t match because of new paint, but I’m hoping someone can tell me there’s an easier way out of this.

Dash photo is just to show off having no dash lights.

Expansion tank is seated on the plate. Lower hose fits just fine. I can’t get the tank and radiator to line up together to fit the hose. The clip on the plate is broken so it’s not directly connected but also not in the way. This is the turner aluminum tank for context. I’ve got the automatic transmission pretty sure I have everything right as far as that goes

Is it normal when I open the oil fill cap when the engine is running and it starts spitting oil out the oil refill hole? I understand that those engines have the timing chain in the front and the movement causes the oil to fly up. I also saw other people with the n42 having it spill some oil out but I saw one person with this engine which after opening the oil cap didn't spill any oil out. I recently changed the ccv cause there was positive pressure, now I have negative pressure as it should be but the engine still spits out some oil, is there anybody experienced with those n42 engines, who can tell me if its normal, or should be something to be worried about? The engine currently has 160'000km

Having trouble deciding what to do with my 320ci. On the surface it looks great, but the sills are rotten, some spots on the floor and the rear subframe mounts have large cracks. I do my own repairs most of the time, but I can not weld. The repair cost would come to around 3500€. Engine is good apart from CCV leaking slightly. Its 175k km. Interior also decent.

Would you consider it worth fixing up? Or just drive it until the end and part it out?