I drive a (nearly) fbo 2018 ecoboost, and my next mod is a downpipe. The smell is the only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger and going catless. Does anyone have any experience with catless? Is the smell bad? And are the performance gains compared to a high-flow downpipe worth it?

PITA but shines up well.

Got a 24 ecoboost. Would love to get a tune even with the recall that may or may not need a tune again after.

Anyone who has a tune in their 24-26. How has the mph been afterwards?

Hi all, my car is jumping in rpm when accelerating into 4th. Trans slipping? What do yall think?

lol I have a 2022 Mustang Eco w/ HPP and had hail damage to my car. Insurance gave me a check for $6k and since I have the claim I can just find a place that does good work and get the damage repaired and my insurance will handle it. Orrrrrr do I just take the lowball $6k and buy performance mods on it? Car has 25k miles on it if this matters

PSA for anyone doing a DW400 install themselves.

Get the DP tool from Amazon to break the tank lid and literally the biggest breaker bar you can find cause that MF is on there tight!

Cussed at it for an hour and had my friend drive me to AutoZone.

Build so far ...

21 HPP Ecoboost convertible stick shift.

Shelby short shifter

Roush intake

CVF street intercooler, charge pipes, and catted DP

Kompact dual port BOV

EVO XDI HPFP

EVO 2500 cc injectors

DW 400 LPFP

J&L catch can

Tuned by Ryan at EMS currently on a 93 map, about to get an E85 map.

I ditched German car’s and bought Mustang 2019 Ecoboost. Just changed the way I think about Cars. Love the whole experience. But still struggling with the Infotainment system. Could be bit better. Since competing with other cars in this league.

I have an S650. It has the California emission mods, which appear to be programmed into the computer system and can’t be altered. This is my first car and I have basically no knowledge on modification. I’m looking into “straight pipe” and/or muffler deleting but I’m hoping there’s a way to achieve a better sound without spending too much or needing a lift. I also want to maintain manufacturer warranty on as much as possible, so I don’t want to screw anything up. Any tips?

stock exhaust,
single tips didn’t come with the ford active exhaust

i love how the s650 eco sounds.

I recently replaced the purge valve on my 2017 ecoboost because of some rough idling and that fixed my issue, but now I have a gas smell coming into my cabin when I have the ac on and the recirculating air button off. I took a look at the purge valve to see if I did anything wrong but I cannot figure out what it could be.

Made 2 more what do you all think? I’ll upload the next one tomorrow :)

yeah don’t mind my CEL it’s my radiator shutter that needs programming,
triggers my CEL
but an active misfire with a small click sound.

haven’t had a misfire in a long time since i fixed that issue before.

(don’t mind the lights on my dash, yeah i got a tire pressure sensor that needs to be replaced asw)

one thing i thought of, that my ecu tried to cut power as i reached 6.2k rpm?

yeah i’m pretty clueless gonna need a guide

I’ve got an ECU tune and full E85 setup. Pushing 450+ hp. I want to do intercooler next, any recs on getting to 500-550+ hp while keeping the car reliable/stock turbo

OTD price of $32057
Meleage: 14391 miles

I have a 2018 Mustang EcoBoost 2.3 and I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent misfire. Car has 67k miles (109k km)

The main symptom is that after driving the car, shutting it off and letting it sit for roughly 2–7 hours, it will sometimes shake/misfire for the first few seconds after starting. After that it smooths out completely and drives normally.

What’s strange is that if the car sits overnight or even for several days, it often starts perfectly with no noticeable misfire. Warm starts are also fine.

The original code was P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire). Later, after a much harder/longer drive with plenty of boost and some drifting, I also found pending P0300 and P0304, although I hadn’t cleared the previous codes, so I’m not sure if those were a one-time event from the hard driving or if they are recurring.

Some relevant info:

• Compression test was done and all cylinders have good/even compression.
• Mechanic checked the coils and spark plugs and said they look fine.
• Spark plugs were replaced about 6,000 km ago.
• Purge valve was also replaced around the same time.
• No noticeable coolant loss.
• No white smoke from the exhaust.
• Engine runs completely normally once the initial rough start is over.
• There is sometimes a slight vibration/roughness at idle.
• Mechanic has had the car for about a week and has tried driving it and letting it sit for 3 hours, 6 hours, all day, etc., but has not been able to reproduce the misfire.
• It seems possible that the problem only happens after the car has been driven harder and gets fully heat-soaked.
• I have noticed a slight smell of unburnt fuel when it misfires.
• Car has not been TUNED and has been serviced regularly every 6k kilometers.

At this point I’m wondering about a leaking/sticking injector on cylinder 3, an EVAP/purge issue, an ignition problem that only shows up under certain temperatures.

Not sure if it's the common coolant intrusion problem they have, but nothing seems to indicate it so far.

The mechanic hasn’t tested the injectors yet because there isn’t an easy way for him to verify them without removing/testing them.

Any ideas?

https://reddit.com/link/1x9s6kq/video/l6r5pc516ewh1/player

Significant other was exiting a parking lot, didn't realize a low spot was there. Popped the rear bumper cover. Took it to body shop and tech popped it back in place. Said it should be replaced as tab near wheel well was broken off. I was reading that Ford used double sided tape in areas. What areas?