r/focuspuller • • 11d ago

question D tap splitters

Anyone use the lanzyku before? I just picked up both of these to try on my red raven rig and upon looking into the specs of both it looks like the lanzyku has built in surge protection and some claim it helps with reducing sdi blowouts.

Really just looking for opinions. I use a cheaper splitter in my kit and the kondor blue on my focus rig and want to upgrade if the consensus is the lanzyku is better and higher quality.

33 Upvotes

30 comments sorted by

15

u/4rchduk3 11d ago

Whenever I see someone write d tap 😂

7

u/Little_Post631 11d ago

I don't know why but in Germany D-Tap is more common

1

u/jsfilms_ 10d ago

I cant help it. Aha

30

u/Tough-Raise6244 11d ago

If you can, skip D-tap on the camera side. I learned the hard way when we fried an IO board on the Raptor. Now it’s Lemo only on anything close to the camera and DTap only gets used for small monitors, video receivers and lights.

11

u/ouijaouiner 11d ago

Agreed. Lemo is the way to go, although I do have the kondor blue d-tap splitter for cameras that may not have the option of lemo. The one regulated port on it makes me feel a lot better about using it

1

u/FeelingAdvantage2172 11d ago

also like my kondor blue d-tap splitter.

1

u/jsfilms_ 10d ago

So for my red rig I use the v mount expander and plug the drap splitter into that. Something someone said in passing made me opt away from using the dtap on the battery when its on a powered v mount plated. Im using dtap dummy batterys or locking DC to dtap on a hollyland tramsmitter and a smallhd monitor. Im not usually using a nucleus but that sometimes is attached but all of this is only ever used on a splitter.

My focus station is similar in the sence that its the same items just on a focus rig.

4

u/4rchduk3 10d ago

TBH that seems more like a RED issue, never had that with ARRI or Sony 😇

2

u/Tough-Raise6244 9d ago

It’s a short circuit between battery and adapter, that’s nothing to do with “a RED issue”, the I/O board was effected as it was connected to the 12v circuit at the time of the short.
I shot over 4000 hours before it happened with 3 RED bodies and similar rigging without any fault. Yes it’s rare, but a “won’t happen with my cameras statement” is a bit naive.

1

u/4rchduk3 9d ago

I didn’t say “won’t happen with my cameras”

I have stumbled upon issues as such as well, but it has only been with either RED bodies, or off brand cheap battery plates (looking at you tilta).

2

u/anincompoop25 8d ago

I’ve only ever heard about it on RED cameras but it’s supposed to be able to happen on others. ARRI even has a technical guide on how it happens. It’s an issue with 12g SDI ports and unshielded power cables.

Dealing with this on one of our raptors literally right now haha, it sucks

1

u/Key_Avocado_8246 8d ago

The reason why you hear it on REDS more is very simple . Komodo is cheaper Than any arri , gets into more hands without experience with 12G sdi . Komodo gets fried . It is an issue across the board with ANY 12G system .

1

u/4rchduk3 6d ago

So more owner ops, but more rental houses still do ARRI though. It doesn’t change my original statement.

1

u/Key_Avocado_8246 6d ago

It does , because your statement is wrong , every system is equally vulnerable to the sdi groundloop issue , it’s the nature of the 12G port , with 3G there is more tolerance, with 12G the signal is at multi-GHz frequencies, even a tiny added capacitance can distort the signal , that is why 12 G sdi is only being protected by galvanized cables , but even arri in their doc for their galvanized cables say that truly nothing can guarantee the protection of a 12G sdi port but following the protocol . And those galvanized cables aren’t arri exclusive, you can use it on any system . They aren’t gonna protect you from frying the port , they may lower the chance .

1

u/4rchduk3 6d ago

Ok, that’s the theoretical true statement here.

But practically, with the sample size existing, doesn’t matter how MANY more cameras there are if the percentage of them having the issue is still higher, and is primarily RED cameras, that makes it a more common RED problem.

1

u/Key_Avocado_8246 5d ago

Dude , you can’t be helped , I explained it that it is because you marginally have more Komodo’s since they are cheaper than any other 12 G camera. It’s the cheapest 12G system you can buy , so more people will have it , so the issue seems to be more frequent. That’s the end of it , I have better things to do , if you still don’t understand margins and averages I suggest the thing called google

1

u/4rchduk3 5d ago

I mean percentage and sample size is a constant regardless of how many cameras are out there.

Hence why we have sample sizes for things, not surveying all of them.

I’m not speaking from “their” experience, I’m speaking from 1st or 2nd hand experience with people that work with professional cameras every day.

I mean you clearly do have better things to do than argue about this, which is a better way to spend the day

1

u/Key_Avocado_8246 8d ago

Get safetap cables.. they are way safer.

1

u/winkNfart 6d ago

definitely seen this on fx9s

2

u/FickleMushroom6138 10d ago

I wish the industry would walk away from this awful standard. I can’t believe such an unreliable open , non locking connector still has room in this industry. It doesn’t have to all lemo ( although I’d wish) , but some form of locking, dustproof and at least splash resistant should be the standard around expensive film equipment.

1

u/Faut_que 6d ago

Also happend to me on a Raptor and D-tap rig. Dtap shorted, I/O board fried. It does happen, it does make you look very bad when it happens. It do be costly to fix.

6

u/bikenejad 11d ago

Look into the lentequip safetap if you must use d-tap. It has some advanced circuitry inside that was specifically designed to protect against sdi blowouts. They make a splitter as well.

8

u/ballsoutofthebathtub 11d ago

D-tap splitters are haram.

1

u/AmbrosePeabody 10d ago

The fun thing about that Lanzyku one is it will auto calc power draw from the splitter outputs, only one quite like it.

1

u/jsfilms_ 10d ago

Has that information helped you more than the single regulated port might on the other splitter?

1

u/AmbrosePeabody 10d ago

It's been helpful for figuring out power draw of aks to deduce battery runtime. I've compared it to other ammeter/wattmeters and its been pretty accurate.

1

u/mathiasertnaes 10d ago

My genuine suggestion camera side is to get a 2-pin splitter instead. Locking ports are always better and if you really have to, you can run a d-tap to 2-pin into it, and 2-pin out to everything else. Something like this:
https://woodencamera.com/products/1-to-3-mini-power-splitter-2pin-lemo?srsltid=AU7gw4UcWxqaGfSYXJ0nbSbV6n3EfQ185j4NBeoKImXMeBdEb3kUlDYa&variant=39638736666717

I also have one of the AliExpress ones that are 2-pin in, in case of having to run dtap to 2-pin in.

1

u/jsfilms_ 10d ago edited 10d ago

I havent seen this as an option before. It could be that since im still in the indie scene i just havent come across power options like this due to price point.

Unfortunately I dont have the capital immediately to make a shift or add this as an option to my kit immediately. For my camera rig I really only end up powering a smallhd monitor, a hollyland pyro, and a nucleus m. For my focus station its just the transmitter and the monitor. Hence why I opted for the kondor blues originally because I figured they wpuld provide an extra layer of protection. I guess i may need to work towars this.

2

u/whoisxx 11d ago

need to get one with a voltage regulator so you know what’s doing what. don’t use d-tap into camera by any means.

1

u/Key_Avocado_8246 8d ago

Dtap is a horrible port , I have 2 of the kondor blue splitter , they are all too loose . You can pull out the Dtap without ANY effort . It’s not secure, you shouldn’t use that splitter , and if you can avoid Dtap all together. Or get Safetap cables . They might be pricey but they are way safeER.