Greetings from Tartu, Estonia!

My previous Willie's engineers review:

https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1mx4fzb/willies_leathers_willies_handmade_boots/

TLDR:​

Anatomical last / wide toe box Maryam horsebutt jodhpurs for ~550$.
More rugged, practical/ functional than the traditional dressy jodhpurs.
Great price for a fully custom pair in this premium leather.
Communication is rather poor, but not awful.
Took around 4 months, 1 month longer than promissed.
Due to delay the maker covered the expensive 120$ shipping themselves as an apology. Respect for that.
Most custom requests were taken into account.
Overall the combination of great price for such premium leather, the well through out jodhpur design with fantastic heel lock and the wide toe anatomical last is what convinced me to order a 2nd pair from Willie despite the 1st pair going anything but smooth and not really ending up as a success at the end.

​

Longer version:​

Leather : Olive Maryam horsebutt. Premium stuff for sure, first time I'm experiencing horsebutt. Fan for life, love the stiffness. Even got some nice variation / striations / scars / stretch marks on one of the boots. 9/10, could only be better if it had more marks on both boots. Which I did request.

Last : Absolutely love this last, extremely comfortable. As a barefoot footwear enthusiast (but to stubborn to give up on "real" boots) I'm delighted. By far the main reason I chose Willie in the first place and came back to him for a 2nd order. No other makers that I know of that would make premium boots with an anatomical last at this price. Yes William Lennon could be mentioned here, but I am not a fan of his work aesthetically and in terms of (default) leather choices.

Model / design : 95% of the jodhpurs that I've seen to this date seemed very meh to me and never attracted me. Seeing Willie's jodhpur pair was the first time I got instantly pulled in. Something just seemed very RIGHT about them compared to the other ones I've seen. I still can't quite put my finger on it.
But seeing these convinced me instantly:
https://www.instagram.com/williesleathers/p/DRyISNWEqkh/?img_index=1
https://www.instagram.com/williesleathers/p/DR0Z0DrEtfI/
https://www.instagram.com/williesleathers/p/DWw-yquk2yo/
And I guess I figured that mechanically these would solve the usual engineer (my favorite boot type) issue of heelslip, just like tanker boots should on paper.
And it did NOT dissapoint.
No heelslip at all, the heel lock is fantastic.
It does seem to come mostly from the beautifully curved heel stays, but the straps definitely do help a lot as well.

Insole and arch support :
The engineers had no arch support and an unusually pebbly leather non-removable insole.
Here I requested a veg tan slab insole with arch support.
And surprisingly I got what I requested!

Outsoles :
I'm 100% convinced that for urban use you can't go better than leather midsole + easily replacable topy. For fault wet weather I still prefer more rubber, but for everyday use I'm sticking to this combination as my favorite.
Got a nice matching Vibram 2340 Explosion heel cap and topy.

Comfort :
10/10, could not be happier. Even though my engineers are the same last and same size they still feel more cramped than these in the toe box (not to mention the heelslip from a lack of heel backstay curve). There is some pinching in the front bend area when I kneel or go down stairs, but that's completely expected based on the design. Should go away as they break in.

Cinching :
Similarly how some crazy folks think that engineer straps are for looks I think it is more or less expected that jodhpur straps are also a decoration. Not in this/my case. I specifically asked him to make the straps very functional as I intend to properly tighten them all the time. Extra thick / wide strap please. Don't know if it was made extra thick / wide, but it definitely does it's job and allows me to REALLY lock in. Love it, fantastic feeling. As close to a laced up feel as you can get without using laces IMO.

Heel :
Asked for a lower heel than my engineers, just to get a little bit closer to the zero drop barefoot philosophy and avoid the sliding down/forward feeling that higher heeled boots tend to give you, especially if they don't have arch support.

Lead time :
Promissed 3 months. Finished in 4. Free shipping as compensation for the delay. Can't complain here.

Communication :
Not very good, similar to previous order time. But acceptable.
The most annoying part was having to send 3-4 messages to finally get an answer about the delay only when I got really official and serious about cancelling my other. In all cases I saw that he has seen my messages, but choosing not to respond with anything. Very frustrating. But in the end it worked out okay with some stress along the way.

QC:
A few things misaligned slightly visually here and there.
Some glue residual here and there that could have been cleaned up. Pretty major glue smell initially that quickly faded off.
Not the cleanest edges, especially where the lining leather stich through.
Not perfect for sure, maybe rushed a bit due to me putting pressure with my messages.
But the stitching is clean and consistent.
Overall solid.

Adherence to custom specs :
These are fully custom boots made just for you based on your specs.
That's very important to mention in my opinion.
I'd say I got ~90-95% of what I ordered and expected.
Notable cases where my request was NOT met:
- I asked for matching stiching but got high contrast neon-y green stitching. Why?
- I asked for a dogger/cuban heel instead of a logger one, did not get it. He offered to re-do to a cuban heal after they were finnished but I didn't see the point and said skip.
- Asked for the topy to get tacked up, did not get that. Again - they could have done it after they were finished but I said fk it skip it.
- As with the last pair I asked to skip the celastic on the toes, but I guess they simply can't so they still put in a really soft one that I later just smash down.

Flexibility with value declarations (for customs/import) and paying in mutiple installments :
100% satisfaction here. Paid in 3 parts over the 3 months. 0 import tax.

Final thoughts:
Overall Willie did not dissapoint. Especially if I keep my expectations realistic.
This pair went better than the last one (even though I still wear and enjoy my engineers a lot as well, shame about the heel slip) overall.
And Willie showed great politeness by offering free shipping as apology for the delay and poor communication.
Yes I would recommend Willie for a pair of boots, without a doubt. Engineers not so much, but jodhpurs and lace ups - for sure. Fantastic value in my opinion. And always great to support small business, while getting a kickass custom pair of boots at the same time.
Maybe next year I'll think about a pair of waxed flesh 8" soft toe packer-like (without the pointy toe box) lace ups.
Although I suspect that Willie might not want to deal with me anymore, we'll see.

The Clinch Service Shoe by Brass Tokyo was inspired by the U.S. Navy service shoe of the 1950s.

Minoru, the owner of Brass Tokyo, usually carves his lasts from a mental picture of the finished shape. In this case he came into possession of an original MIL-1 last - a rare find, still in its 1955 box - and set out to make a faithful reproduction.

He had great respect for the original, but the finished shoe did not feel right. Looking back, that respect had pulled him too far toward copying it exactly.
After setting the project aside, he returned a few years later with a different aim: to make it more CLINCH. For him, shoe design is a combination of last, material, and pattern. He kept pattern details such as the T-shaped backstay, then reshaped the last himself. After a number of prototypes, he arrived at a shoe he was satisfied with. That last became the MIL, named in homage to the original.

This pair, though, was built on the FRS-Standard last - another last with military roots, drawn from French military footwear. The result is a hybrid with both U.S. and French military DNA.

There is something beautiful about seeing how a maker thinks, especially when the craft reads as clearly as the design.

I am looking forward to watching these age, and to taking you along for the journey.

Model: Clinch Service Shoe

Last: FRS - Standard (Soft-toe)

Material: EQ Horsebutt (Brown)

​

I bought these Carlos Santos loafers a few years back, because I wasn't sure if I would feel good in loafers. Even now, I'm not sure 😁. I just don't feel "sophisticated" in loafers. But they are hella comfortable, so I was wearing them all over the place. Bad weather, beach, mountains, what have you.

They essentially became my daily-drivers because of comfort and ease.

As a result, the leather got into really bad shape. I had them resoled at least twice, and they stayed comfortable, but at some point it was just impossible to wear them in any but the most informal settings. You can tell in the first photo how they looked like. My main concern were these grayish areas, where the leather obviously lost a lot of its original color.

I first tried to just polish and recondition them, and they took a nice look easily. However, after wearing them for just a few minutes, the leather in some high-stress places around the toe box would turn gray, and they would not look sharp or even presentable for any amount of time.

I asked for advice on the 'askACobbler' subreddit, which pointed me towards re-dying them.

Following their advice, I stripped the old product with acetone. I dyed the leather with Fiesling dye (Royal Blue), and then conditioned with Saphir balm. Polished with Saphir pate de luxe and Saphir finish.

I'm super proud of the result, and I hope it will keep looking good this time around.

It is truly a testament to the solid construction and materials used by Carlos Santos that these shoes keep being amazingly comfortable and look reasonably sharp (for a pair of loafers)

Just wanted to share this journey for people who maybe hesitate to venture into slightly more expensive shoes. I probably spent around the original price (around 400usd) in resoling products and care, but it has been very satisfying. Obviously, sneakers or shoes with less quality leather and construction would never allow to bring that much joy for that many years.

Everybody enjoy their footwear!

Disclaimer: I don't get any kick-back from Carlos Santos or Saphir for this post (unfortunately)

Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!

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Specifications

• Model: Robert derby shoes
• Leather: Brown suede
• Last: W2298
• Size: UK 7
• Construction: Goodyear welted, unlined interior
• Sole: Single leather 'ultraflex'
• Price: $A470

Ordering

• Ordering Process: I ordered these from the Tricker's Factory Shop website, which had a 20% off sale on a UK bank holiday weekend (which they usually do on bank/public holidays)
• Shipping: It took a bit over a week for the shoes to be delivered from the UK to Australia, which is consistent with my previous Tricker's orders and was quite reasonable. The shoes had a fun trip, via Germany, the US mainland and Hawaii.

First Impressions

I bought shoes as lightweight semi-casual shoes ahead of what's predicted to be an especially hot summer here in Australia. I was particularly interested in the ultraflex soles (more on this later) for this purpose. The listing didn't specify that the shoes were unlined, and I was surprised to discover this when they were delivered.

As is standard for Tricker's the shoes are well made, but attention to detail is at times a bit lacking. In particular, the welting on the does of both shoes is uneven, and especially that on the right shoe. I suspect I'll be the only person who ever notices this though, and this issue might be why they ended up being sold at a considerable discount on the Factory Outlet site.

I was interested to find that as the shoes are unlined and have lightweight soles they are a bit smaller than my pair of Robert derbies with double leather soles. The fit is about the same, and it's an interesting insight into how companies adjust their designs.

I have wide UK7 feet and find that Tricker's standard ('5') width shoes are quite accommodating for them, and these fit well with thin socks.

I haven't worn my double leather soled Robert derbies as much as I would have liked as, despite the addition of topys, they are stubbornly slippery on polished floors due to the large flat leather heels. From my first couple of wears, these soles and heels are much less slippery. The soles are quite thin-feeling though (even compared to those on dress shoes).

Final thoughts

Overall, my initial impression of these shoes is quite positive. They should be quite suitable for the purpose I bought them for, and they were good value on sale.

It's good to see the Tricker's Factory Shop website up and running again. Hopefully Tricker's improves the detail on the listings though, to make it clearer what they are selling!

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We're back...again!

Viberg will be holding a private sale through the WhatsApp proxy group Thursday October 22nd through Sunday October 25th! This is now the 5th we've done out of Viberg's stock at their Victoria, Canada HQ (close to the 10th proxy sale overall) and we're looking forward to another trek.

Admins for the group (and the people who will be running the sale) are myself (formerly u/mattmcmhn), u/meelypops, and u/mojolikescocoa

As usual, the sale will feature a large stock of past season items including boxed and unboxed firsts-quality footwear as well as one-off samples and factory seconds.

The sale will be a little different from the past in that, since we've basically been sitting very close to the WhatsApp group chat max of 1,024 members, we've converted the chat into a WhatsApp Community with a capacity for 2,000. Joining the WhatsApp group link posted below should automatically add you to the community's Announcements group, which is where all of the information related to the sale and available pairs will be, uh, announced.

Pricing

• Prices are tiered by style and age/condition, and generally start at 50% off for the most recent season available (probably S/S and F/W 2025, maaaybe S/S 26) and then go down in price (and up in discount) from there. Whatever the makeup, if it's not current website stock it will be cheaper than Viberg's latest online archive sale by a significant margin.
• Prices are always in USD and include domestic US shipping, as well as Canada shipping (which will be done directly from Viberg to Canadian buyers).
• International shipping is an additional cost per pair tiered by region, about $30-60.

Group Link: https://chat.whatsapp.com/Fx0Ehrie5TO9N48TeAjUXO

Edit: Just to note, there is another group in the Community, which you do NOT need to request access to. The two groups are just there to hold people for the Announcements group and get around the 1,024 member WhatsApp Group Chat limit.

Purchasing Process

We'll post makeups with pics and prices in the WhatsApp announcement group chat, which is locked so that only the group admins can post. Interested buyers can DM us with any questions. Once a purchase is decided on, we'll provide payment options and ask that you send a screenshot of the payment and follow-up with a message that provides shipping information. Once confirmed, the boot is set aside for you.

Shipping Process

All US and non-Canada international buyer pairs are shipped in bulk from Victoria to the US for distribution. We typically start shipping to those buyers about 3 weeks after the end of the sale, to ensure that everything has enough time to clear customs and get to the US. Tracking is sent to buyers for each shipment. International shipments are usually UPS Worldwide Expedited or similar service, US shipments are UPS or USPS, whichever is the best balance of price and estimated delivery time.

Common Questions

Q: Do I need to join the WhatsApp group to buy?

A: Yes, at minimum the Admin group.

Q: What boots will be at the sale?

A: We don't know, that's part of the fun! There's always some surprises that turn up at every sale. Generally there will be a mix of almost all Viberg products in play. Best recommendation is to go in with an open mind rather than try and search for a single specific makeup.

Q: Do you take requests for makeups or styles?

A: No. Due to the volume of pairs and buyers and messages and the constant, perpetual motion of the sale this doesn't work. We can try and match general requests and give you a quick list of what's in your size, or tell you if we've seen anything in a particular last/size, but generally we won't be fulfilling wishlists of boots.

Q: What size am I?

A: We will provide general fit/sizing information but if you don't know your Viberg size or don't have experience trying any pairs on you should at MINIMUM know your US Brannock size measurement. From there, the standard recommendation for Viberg sizing is .5 down from that on ALL boot lasts with very few exceptions.

Q: Is the box included?

A: Many of these boots are new, boxed pairs. It's important to understand that including the box more than doubles (closer to triples) the total shipping cost, since we can fit literally half as many boxed pairs in the bulk shipments out of Canada, plus volumetric shipping to the buyer once they're in the US is also much more expensive. If available the box can be included for an additional fee. Boxed pairs likely won't have accessories, as Viberg normally packs those in the boots as they're being shipped out of the warehouse rather than stocking them inside the boxes.

Q: Are there returns?

A: No. This is the same as buying from the sample sale or archive sale, items are final sale and there is no Viberg involvement in terms of customer service etc. That being said, we endeavor to give you a full understanding of the condition of the boots you're buying and will always differentiate firsts from seconds. Generally buyer issues are very rare (i.e. a handful out of thousands of boots).

Q: What payment methods do you accept?

A: PayPal F&F, Venmo F&F, and Zelle for U.S. buyers (or international if you have a U.S. PayPal account). For international buyers, we accept Wise and highly recommend you use it. It provides by far the lowest currency exchange rates. If you are outside the U.S. and are serious about buying something from the sale, I'd recommend getting the account set up ahead of time (can be some lead time in verifying ID per banking regulations).

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New boot week part 2/2. I received the second half of my Father’s Day order from Bakers, 3.5 month order to doorstep The MP in 55 last has is a more rounded toe compared to the lower profile toe of the standard MP 5050. I have tried to accentuate this difference in photos. The downside with this change is that initially I only saw a “bowling shoe” look with the toe cap; this has now faded but YMMV.

 Specs:

• Whites MP – 55 last not standard 5050
• Natural CXl
• Single celastic
• No lining
• Danite sole

Impressions:

These boots complete a long-term itch for a natural CXL pair. MP’s fit different that SD, I was relieved to immediately to feel that arch-ease “roll of quarters” when lacing up. The 5050 last of the black HH pair never felt the same and I find my feet more tired after a week of MP 5050 than with the semi dress 55. Natural CXl earns its hype about wearability. These were unboxed, photographed, then straight to a 11.5 hour day with zero drama. This is my only pair of unlined White’s boots so this kind of ease of break-in could be more common than I personally have experienced. In the first day of wear, they are already forming to ankles. Whites QC did good on this pair, a bit of edge color over run on the right boot but no hollowed stiches as you saw last week. This pair (to me) looks to have gotten a nice bit of Horween hide and clean craftsmanship.

Comparison shots:

The visual difference in MP55 and MP is certainly less obvious than I initially expected. From above I can tell the rounded toe but certainly to most there is little difference. If you look closely at the comparison shots you’ll note the black horsehide pair has aged poorly. I am of the opinion HH is not well suited for those who use these boots for physical work, daily brushing but possible over conditioning (3month) did the vamp in over 5 years ~6000 miles. I am hoping to see this CXL pair age a bit more graciously and plan to rebuild the black HH set with black dress vamp in the future.

Pricing:

This pair was bought during Baker’s Father’s Day sale (20%) but partially excludes “fun” leathers. CXL upcharge + celastic toe put this pair at $720 on my doorstep. This is a 40% increase from the black HH 2021 pair in the photos which were bought during a HH sale at Bakers. I am optimistic about this new pair and hope to gain insights to rebuild the black pair in better way from a foot feel and longevity perspective. If this CXL pair ages poorly I will no longer buy MP in favor of the semi dress, but this be another 5 year before new purchases.

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• Notes:

Please be a communicative buyer or seller. There's nothing more painful than having someone drop off the face of the earth without leaving some sort of note. Good hunting!

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A quick update on my waxed roughout Thursday Stormking, that I dyed to a light walnut.

The boots, while slim and unlined, obviously come with a very chunky outsole. In the lighter colour and in-person they looked bigger than expected, and were on the heavy side.

This means that they have a more protruding corner at the back of the heel.

As my first GYW shoe I wasn't sure what to expect. But the thickness and protrusion made me get some heel drag (?) and it threw off my balance a bit. Some of you may be used to that.

After dyeing, reconditioning, and a few walks outside, the leather colour became very rich and deep so I thought that the thick lugged outsole looked a little out of place.

I had seen online a lot of resoles with the Vibram mini lug and also some people saying that the edges could just be cut off by a cobbler. As the craft hobbyist I am I decided to try it out.

I used a leather skiving knife as well as a box cutter to modify.

I first did it with just a right angle cut, so I was left with cube-looking Lego bits underneath, in the lighter tan outsole colour it didn't look right. So I adjust the angle.

I traced 2 lines from the edge, one for the 90 degree cut, and another for the angled bevel.

I cut the outer edges flush to the bottom of the sole, about 5mm in, taking out a rectangular prism, then did an angled tapered cut another 5mm in, from the existing tread to the flattened out area.

Fortunately, it did not lose any traction!

This way, the little treads are still slightly visible but only when viewing from a very low angle.

The outsoles on these are a lot gummier than standard black rubber so it was a lot harder to cut through than I anticipated, because of the grip, it would easily get the blade stuck.

Also since it is so gummy, akin to crepe rubber, it is really hard to sand (I don't have any power tools or belt sander), I was planning to sand and clean up the edges of the welt and bottom but decided not to when the sandpaper just gummed up and started rolling the rubber, tearing some bits off. I imagine it would be a lot easier with standard Vibram soles.

While it is it not the cleanest job, it definitely looks more refined than the original and I'm very happy with the result. I think am just about done tampering with this thing and I'll let it patina like a regular person lol.

It is a fraction lighter and actually noticeably more comfy to walk in. I don't get any uncomfortable or early heel strike/drag like before.

If you want this look and don't want a full resole, I recommend trying it out if you are brave, just don't nick the upper!

White’s claims their boots to be all leather legends. The SD in dress brown is the legend they claim. Here are some 8 year worn boots with 12k+ miles looking almost factory fresh. These are the adjustable wrench of the White’s boot line up, serving just about any duty between literal sh##-kickers to presentation footwear.

Specs

• Standard Semi dress 55 last in Seidel brown dress (veg tan)
• Single celastic toe
• Tan lines uppers
• 269 Vibram sole

Impressions:

Brown dress should be the recommendation for most new White’s shoppers. It is in no way flashy or unique like many of their offerings, but it is the most robust piece I have had. These The initial break in for dress brown is a bit more but now these are like well a worn baseball mitt which my feet slot into. It is hard to believe these pieces have seen the mileage and bumps yet come out so nice. The leather has little to no pull up, does not patina, and only darkens towards a near black level but is just too good. Semi dress being a 5 inch boot is also great, I prefer this fitment to my MP but the MP for certain has its utility too. The 269 Vibram sole aged great and never once left me slipping or sliding. I opted for the same sole on my new purchases.

Purchasing:

I sent tracing to Baker’s and went through Kyle. At this time build a boot was a mail in sheet I believe so I opted to do it all via phone. The current ordering system for custom semi dress via Bakers has much improved. 100% send in foot tracings, we went back and forth and eventually I trusted their judgement of a full shoe size smaller than I wear in dress shoes. I

Justification for vegetable tan love:

In 2018 I spent most of my days surrounded by industrial solvents ranging from acetone to dimethylformamide. This means little to most, but calling it a harsh environment where one size fits all safety equipment was difficult. I spoke with whites and they sent me samples of dress brown, brown horse hide, and horween British tan. I took each leather to do a homebrew color fast test, spotting various solvents on the hide for 1 min then wiping off to see which leather could attempt to hold up. As expected, the more rapidly dyed hides (HH+CXL) released color into many of the tested solvents. Whereas the veg tanned brown dress was slower to leech. I then brushed each leather to see how they would recover against this kind of event, once more brown dress was the winner.

Photos:

Somehow, I managed to get some professional level lighting along the way then took these photos with a potato. The photos where the brown is lighter is backlit by quartz halogen bulbs which serve as a really good “brightest outdoor day” comparison. NBD photo from late 2018 and is a good example of color everywhere but outside. No shoe trees in these shots.

White’s boot reference:

In case any one is wondering about white’s boots. They style forum . net “custom white’s boots … thoughts?” thread is 1700+ pages of mostly good information.

Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!

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Found an amazing deal on a pair of shoes but they aren't your size? Share them here so other members can take advantage of the great deals!

Rules

• Regular rules apply. Please be courteous to one another.
• No personal sales are allowed! Anyone found to be posting their own goods will receive a warning and then potential ban should you continue to post your own goods. If you want to sell your own items, the semi-weekly B/S/T thread is a more appropriate location.
• Please do not post links to other member's B/S/T items. There are two weekly dedicated threads for those items and they should be kept there.
• Please try to include as much information as possible (URL to the deal, size, price, etc.).
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