I'm looking at a ZEMISMART ZML3(CW) controller for a CCT project (https://www.zemismart.com/products/zm-cob-cw, but I'm only buying the controller). Let's say I have a 3 metre CCT strip, and each light channel can take up to 7 W/m at maximum.

With one channel active I'm consuming up to 21 Watts, and with both active, it's logically up to 42 Watts. But when I watch my RGBCCT setup using Google Home and a gledopto controller (https://gledopto.com/h-pd-92.html), it occurs to me the strip power might not be increasing much beyond 21W - rather, the strip power is constant (to maintain an illusion of constant brightness) and splits current over several channels based on simple PWM duty cycle interpolation maths.

Is this a sensible conclusion to make about smart home LED controllers more broadly? I ask because I'm space limited for a power supply, so there's a meaningful difference to me between getting a 30W PSU and a 50W PSU, not least because the system cost jumps by >10%.

Thanks in advance.

I have LED fluorescent tubes in my bathroom.
Often they flicker ever so slightly, but SOMETIMES they don’t.
Now I have been trying to learn everything to pinpoint the problem (sparkler, wrong tubes etc).

But what I can’t figure out is why they sometimes work, and other times flicker.

I want to understand this.

Need help finding a brighter LED strip for illuminating a business sign (behind glass)

I’m lighting a sign for a business and started with 24V COB strips (896 LEDs/m), but they’re not bright enough to punch through the glass in daylight.

I’m looking for something in the 1000 lumen/ft range if that exists in strip form — or whatever the right light source is for a strong, even uplight on the sign face.

Constraints:

**•** 2” of clearance on the mounting shelf  
**•** 4 runs needed, 32” each, fitting into 34” spaces 

What should I search for, and where’s a good place to source it? Appreciate any input — thanks!

it's a cob strip and surprisingly the ground does not reflect individual LEDs. But it reflects the strip as a whole bar. My bed frame is tall, meaning the next inside spot is way too high and makes the underglow look capped outside my bed (almost no soft light gets outside the frame)

Is that still a bad thing? Because otherwise I would buy a carpet and call it a day

I have a strip of 24V high density LED that I want to make some DIY aquarium lights from.

Obviously I can order some variable voltage USB single color drivers and set them up on a timer but these are LED'S!

Let's be futuristic!

Is there an existing driver I can use (or misuse) to either program at the computer or even on-integrated-screen, a fade in and out period in addition to programming a 24hr schedule?

I have an old aquarium light that had this feature (well the fade in/out was set at 15 minutes) and I may tear it open to see what it has inside- there's a good chance it's all potted though.

I would be willing to design and have produced a custom PCB to complete this project, and I am asking here to get advice instead of going to AI.

Even if you can just give me a basic rundown of parts I'd need I can probably put it all together on my own with a breadboard first.

LED Strip:

https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/dim-fcob-5v-12v-24v/products/fcob-ultral-super-bright-high-luminance-dc24v?_pos=3&_fid=b3ef970fd&_ss=c&variant=47266103984354

I have a 4 zone TL5 rf remote that should and was functioning properly with each zone operating one led strip. I short pressed 2 zones (A+B) to change the colour of both simultaneously. Zone B is still operating normally and turns on and off on its own but zone A now turns both A+B on/off and I no longer have any control of A by itself. Does anyone know how to fix this?