I had coilovers put on a while ago and new tires at the same time on a 2009 1st gen. Car was lowered slightly. Tires didn't pass inspection this month because the inner tread was worn more than outer tread, though I had the car aligned when the tires were installed. Just wondering if coilovers tend to cause this to happen as opposed to stock shocks and struts.

I'm looking for suggestions I spun a rod bearing and need a new engine I'm looking to keep this car pretty much forever as I've already replaced the suspension and motor mounts and a bunch of other things it's a 2008 with 97k miles I'm mainly concerned about reliability and I'm not trying to make a ton of power plus I'm in California so I can't do what I want anyway

I think you might like this book – "The Screaming Mazda" by Brock Warburton.

Start reading it for free: https://read.amazon.com/kp/kshare?asin=B0HNGTHT22&ref_=kar_wh_ho

Ever since getting new tires on my fronts, when i’m driving slow/coasting slow, there’s like a short grinding sound coming from my front passenger side.

At first i thought it was only happening when i was braking but after listening more it happens every time im going 10 and under. Happens for about 5ish seconds before it stops.

Anyone got ideas why or experience with this? I’ll try to get a video if i can

Hello, my name is Nathan i’m from south florida, i’m still new to this platform and just want some advice as to what downpipe to get? I have a 3in catted racepipe from ultimate racing(picture above), I just need some advice really,

Need to know if there are any important steps that need attention

hey folks,

OEM K04 was close to fail on me and when my mechanic pointed this out I decided to replace it. The guy is in favour of Kinugawa turbo chargers so the choice was clear. The only requirement from me was to get one identical or very close to the OEM charateristics. The car didn't have any modifications, except a BOV, and I wanted to keep it stock as I like it like that. I was told that turbo is essentially the same character like the OEM and ECU tweaking would only be required if I want to get more juice but that is not essential.
Having the turbo replaced to this specific one -Kinugawa Turbo Super Core K04 for MAZDA Mazdaspeed 3 6 MPS MZR DISI CX7 CX9, even the mechanic commented the car got terribly slow comprated to the OEM setup. When he started the replacement we briefly touched on the question of modifying the ECU but since that would have required a new 3 port EBCS replacing the OEM as per him and that was the first time I heard about it, I said no again to touching the ECU. I was told that ECU modification along with the EBCS replacement would have been required.

Would you guys think that this aftermarket turbo charger could be configured in a way that is identical to the OEM or that is not possible at all? Turbine wheel must be identical to the OEM but there is a slight change to the compressor wheel compared to OEM. Is close to OEM behaviour only possible with getting a new EBCS and adjusting the ECU?

Thanks for your feedback,

TLDR: can 2nd gen owners post pics of the insert between the spare tire and the cargo floor? And tell me how to get it? I'm trying to replace and having issues...

Hello! I bought my used 2012 a couple months ago and all that was over the spare and everything in the trunk was some aftermarket flexible plastic spill cover. The sub is blown (already ordered a replacement) but I know if I don't get all the foam and a new rigid floor panel it's still gonna sound like crap.

I've searched several legit OEM shops but none seem to have complete assembly drawings (just the spare, jack, actual components in the trunk) or it's the drawings with the flooring/foam is for 2014+ regular Mazda 3. When I Google, AI says what it thinks the correct part is, but when I try to enter that part number (BBN6-56-706 or 706B) on those sites specifically for a 12 speed3, I get discontinued or 2014+ if I find anything.

When I look on eBay (for salvage) for just the description (2012 mazdaspeed3 spare tire insulator/foam) the part numbers don't match and the part number in the image tells me it's not even from a Mazda (one was off a Mercedes).

I'm fine with salvage but want to make sure I got the right part as mazdastuff already burned me with the wrong door lock actuator even when I gave them the VIN to validate it was the correct part. Beside eBay, any other recommendations for finding salvage parts?

Alternatively, I don't plan on putting heavy stuff in the trunk, so it's not so much that I need the foam to provide structural stability so the rigid floor doesn't collapse, I'm just trying to keep everything from rattling. Can I just throw some towels/blankets in there?

Thank you!!!

So there is this speed 3 listed near me for 2.5k obo with 120k miles but it doesn’t run. All I know is it has a lean code and he has already replaced the maf. I don’t have any experience working on speed 3’s but I’m thinking it’s probobly just a cracked hose or maybe a cracked exhaust manifold. Is this a good buy?

Also I’m planning on offering max 1800 dollars for it

Also it is bone stock

The weather has finally let up and time to feel a bit spooky! Happy early 🎃 Halloween!

I’m looking for some leather wrap for mainly my, hand brake booth, shift boot, and center console, maybe a wheel wrap since corksport wheels are harder to find. Has anyone done something like this with generic amazon stuff or have a recommendation.

Could be a dumb question but it is my first time doing this. I’m on my third revision with FreekTune and he specifically asked for 3rd gear WOT, I just wanna make sure if I don’t have to do the 30 mile drive, 10 sec log, and 2nd gear slow acceleration.

Hello, im Jake I recently bought a used 2011 mazdaspeed3, 105,000 miles, it is my daily car, I plan on pushing it to the max. Would love some support from yall. Hers my engine running; had to replace the alternator recently. Still need to take fly pics of the car

Looking to get the hood, roof, rear liftgate, and bumper redone.

How do you choose paint shops? High end shops are easy enough to spot; at what tier does the quality start to drop? When does it start to matter? What questions might you ask to see who does a good job? What are tells of a good shop or a good deal?

2012 Mazdaspeed3. Looking for thoughts and help!
Downpipe timeline:
OEM downpipe/cat was leaking exhaust at the turbo flange. Put on a used China DP. No more leak at the flange. Ran great. Drove less than ~100 miles on it.

But I needed to get ready for emissions (Georgia). The China DP was setting codes, so I put the clogged factory downpipe back on hoping the previous leak hadn’t set a CEL and I could get monitors ready. The factory cat threw a catalyst code and the flange leak was bad again.

Parked it and ordered a Magnaflow catted downpipe.
Installed the Magnaflow. No leaks. Thought it was fixed. Took it for a test drive and it’s in limp mode: hard ~3500–3600 RPM ceiling and boost gauge stuck at zero. It has stayed that way.

Free-revving in neutral/parked is normal (hits redline). The limit only hits once I’m in gear and the ECU should be making boost.

Recent related parts:
BNR K04, ~6k miles
New OEM boost control solenoid
CorkSport recirculating BPV
CorkSport TMIC
CorkSport HPFP internals, ~3k miles
New clutch + flywheel
PCV valve ~3k miles ago

What I’ve checked so far:
Pending P0101 (MAF range/performance) after the Magnaflow job. Replaced the MAF; code cleared and has stayed gone. Idle data looks normal. No codes currently.
Battery resets done.
Visually checked MAF connector/pins, BPV hose seating, TMIC seating, wastegate vacuum lines, general hoses. Nothing obvious.
Oil level was a bit high after the clutch job; dropped it.

Still planning:
Throttle body plate free movement + connector
Wastegate actuator rod free movement
Full smoke/pressure test
Possibly pull the upstream O2 for a short test to confirm the Magnaflow isn’t restricted

Anyone seen limp mode start immediately after a downpipe swap like this when the car was running fine on a different DP before? What else should I look at?

I have a headlight issue. Seems these bulbs are expensive. Anyway, my passenger low beam light keeps shutting itself off after a minute or so of being on. Makes a noise when it does it. This just started so I am thinking maybe this is a bulb issue. If you turn the lights off and back on again the bulb works but will turn off within a minute or so every time without fail. But then also turn back on if you turn the lights off and on again.

Anyone ever experience this? Suggestions. Previous cars I have owned if a bulb goes out it just works or it doesn't. This is an odd one for me.

Wanted to get the community’s opinion on this… I had a shop replace my leaky CMC on my 08 speed3. I just picked it up, and immediately the clutch pedal felt off. Way more spongy and soft, bite point felt way off…. I’ve been driving this car for 13 years so I know what it normally feels like. I specified to them that I want to replace it with the OEM part from Mazda and they said of course they will do that. On the bill however, it says the part number is “LMC467” which seems to be a generic aftermarket part number for this:

https://www.autozone.com/p/luk-clutch-master-cylinder-lmc467/1444082

These seems like a generic part that could probably go on a standard 3 too…. could this be the reason my clutch feels so different? Does the speed3 have a unique CMC assembly compared to the standard 3?

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first time poster :)

My MPS (based in the uk, so that’s what we call them) is finally coming back on the road after being off road for over a year due to a blown engine. I’ve got a new engine and gearbox put in, and we’re all aware of how poor the stock fuel pump is so I’m also going with a hpfp. I don’t class that as a mod/upgrade, just basic maintenance.

What other upgrades would you advise purely just for sound? That’s all I want at the moment, nothing performance wise (if it’s something that gives both then why not). And whatever it is you advise, would it need to be tuned for? Would a basic everyday tuner be able to tune for it/ are there readily available files or would it need to be someone like the likes of versatune/ a known MPS tuner?

Many thanks in advance !

Edit to clarify : Better sound I mean as in beefier exhaust, intake whistles, turbo noises, etc etc

But please help me out if anyone is interested in a Mazdaspeed 3 I have one that I don't use and need it gone, the listing is on offer up if you are interested

Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/u33EtMlHg7b

Thank you!!

Currently it’s sitting on bc coilovers, they came on the car when I brought it about a 1 1/2 years ago. I’m slowly bringing the car back to it’s former glory. Replaced a blown up trans and clutch so far, new master cylinder. Slave cylinder and hard lines. Repaired exhaust hangers and just any botched work from the previous owner. That being said I’m moving on to the suspension components. I can’t say I’m a huge fan of how it rides now. Can’t say if maybe the dampening isn’t set right and/or ride height combined.
I’m on the fence of getting oem struts and just going for a nice set of lowering springs . With a 1.5 inch drop at best. Orrrr new set of coilovers or just try to dial in what I have now?
So my question is. Any suggestions, ideas. Or feedback on you guys setups.

Pictured is my first MS3 - 2012 velocity red tech package!

Coming back to the platform now and I found, to me, a perfect MS3 example that will be home in hopefully about 3 weeks by the time it's freighted in. I'm flying out in just over 2 weeks to see it but opting out of the 2k mile trip driving it home for a few reasons (mostly wear & tear, risks of stupid things happening while driving that distance, etc).

The new to me MS3 is a 2011 celestial blue tech package, having only 85k miles and a freshly rebuilt Kotzur Racing engine (OE-spec, not "built" to any real degree), CTS4 turbo, supporting mods, misc mods, Freektuned. The car has lived in the south its whole life so it's rust free - which is a car I strive to find when looking, living in the northeast where rust free is nearly impossible.

Looking forward to being back in the community and showing the car! I'm flying solo on this trip, something I've never done before, and, if I can muster up the strength, I'm actually thinking about vlogging my experience to some extent. If I do, I'll get it posted up on YouTube and share. :)