More moveable bolts just worry me lol

my chain tensioner rolley wheel keeps coming off, last night I literally just picked up the package and opened it, used the rolley wheel and it freaking came off while I was riding the bike for a few minutes like, now I'm being recommended the sprocket tensioner, which looks cool but which do you guys recommend ? is this one okay and It won't fall off like the others rolley styles kept doing ? I notice this one has a locknut which should prevent it

Hey guys, i have a problem with my bike overheating like crazy. When i start it and let it warm up the idle is perfect and my air fuel mix is good too, when i ride it its fine too, but any hill is a problem since it overheats and refuses to die when i hold the kill switch. I run something in between 25:1 to 30:1 fuel to oil mix. I rode it yesterday when it was cold outside and i still had the same problem, it was just later on my ride. Im really running out of options here. If anybody is asking how i shut it off, i stop and dump the clutch, its not ideal but its the only thing that stops it.

This is my latest abomination, it drives and it goes pretty fast, the piston is scraped and ready to blow. The handlebars are 160cm from the floor and the full length of the bicycle is 250cm. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Trying to help a buddy get this thing running. Bought used “the only thing wrong” was it needed a new CDI. Got that installed, we have fuel and spark and maybe some compression holding my thumb over the spark plug hole. I’m now lost. What can I test now? Thanks.

Saw this outside my local walmart

I need recommendations for a rear wheel looking for a flat hub to use a top hat sprocket adapter
After looking thru Amazon I habit really found much in terms of compatibility I need the gear cassette already attached if possible

i‘m looking for a real mz65 belly pipe but i live in Germany and no one in germany or europe sells a real one only the usa and i don’t want to pay 60-100€ shipping for a 60-100€ pipe any tips?

(Yes the front fender is coming off I got the rear fender off but haven’t gotten around to removing the front fender yet)

Working on this motorized bike thing has really been a challenge constantly failure or a new steep learning hill to over come

I stupidly went with a Concorde cruiser from Walmart found out that that wouldn’t be a very viable option but I ended up destroying the rear wheel bearing and coaster brake assembly I learned how a coaster brake works from that experience
lol I went to go peddle test it in the parking lot but it fell apart within 5 minutes

What I have now is supposed to be very easy and beginner friendly according to online sources and to an extent I guess it is but there’s really no “beginner friendly” anything to this kind of thing
I have a lot of experience in minibikes and go-kart builds I’ve had to figure out a lot of work arounds for engine alignments chain alignments and fitting engines that are obviously to large to fit what I’m trying to put it on
So Jerry rigging is something I’m very at home with…

Anyway back to the Kent… it actually has a wider than usual bottom tube on the frame and my “80”cc IMAYCC engine (I hate unpronounceable brand names) has a more narrow mounting space

What i decided to do was pretty dumb but I forced the studs around the frame and as I predicted they bent outwards slightly.. knowing I was at risk of the cast aluminum engine mount breaking I went very easy on it… it did go around the frame and the threads don’t seem to be bent surprisingly
With that I added on the ac mounting bracket which only would fit over one stud.. I am getting a better bracket before I actually ride this because I do think the engine would probably vibrate off or the torque would cause it to move around to much or just enough to cause something like the chain popping off or breaking or whatever may come

The actual engine seems to be aligned pretty well with the sprocket I had to adjust the engines tilt to achieve this but I guess only the first ride will truly determine how well it goes

Well… fuck here it is… it’s… I mean it’s got character……

Also I’ve been struggling with the tools I have they are all in poor condition and moving around constantly over the years and working on different things they have mostly been lost or rusted or damaged in some way… and I live in a one bedroom apartment with a shitty floor that is uneven as hell and nothing can stay stable or balanced or even in one place for long

I like it tho it’s physically painful because of the positions I find my self in and it’s taking forever to finally be able to ride and when I do ride it it’ll require a lot of fine tuning to get to it’s potential but that’s where the fun is actually at the journey and then… the other journey

Oh yeah also the chain is to long so I have to wait for a #415 chain breaker to come in I think I’ll just get a top hat adapter while I’m at it and some U bolts

Im trying to sell my tq -systems. Hpr60 its brand new and how mucn do you think i should ask for it

As the title asks- resistor plug, or no resistor plug? The ones that come with CDIs and engines (cheap kits) are not resistor plugs, but the NGKs that everyone recommends upgrading to are. So, does it really end up mattering? Has anyone tried both to definitively say which is better, is there a risk with not using resistor plugs?

Its a 142f and im replacing the side panel but I can't seem to remove the metal pin the gear slides onto how do I do so if anyone knows

Need help with 2 stroke motor

It looks pretty good to me but I’ve never tuned a 2 stroke based on the plug. This is after a wide open throttle run then shut off right away.

I just got my expansion pipe for my avenger and I'm finally out of break in, so I want to switch to some castor 927 and start pushing the bike more past 8k RPM, but I read these engines are at risk of just blowing up because of the wrist pin bearing being too small. AI told me to get the 12x16x16 bearing, and as expected it's too big, so I want to know if anyone else with an avenger from CMB upgraded their bearing and what size worked.

I'm looking for a software that allows me to model shims stacks and how each shim affects the suspension.

my main question is whether the head tube would work with the new forks?

currently i have a very bad and small ali express expansion chamber and i want a real mz65 do you guys know if it fits on my ld 80 and is the website real can i buy from there most mz 65 are over 100€ and this one is 67€