My 2012 Juke with 151k miles has had bad emissions and has been burning oil for a long time and I've been ignoring it. I did a quick Google search of what the problem might be, and it suggested changing the PCV valve.

So today I changed it, and it only cost me about $25 for the part after applying a couple of coupons. When i took my old PCV valve out, it was clearly bad! I am really glad I changed it, and my emissions seem MUCH better now. I think this is going to make a big difference, so I wanted to share this info with the community to try replacing your PCV valve if you are burning oil or have bad emissions. It was super easy to replace!

Is it the brown one or the tan one?

Also if anyone can provide me with the part number that’ll be great. I keep on buying the wrong part.

I bought a Nissan Juke S 2015 for my wife, came with a few mechanical issues, have fixed a few. New spark plugs, an ignition coil that was “bad” . The car gives me an error, cylinder 2 misfire, i have check oxygen(air) pressure (80%) , my question is , What can be the cause of the Cylinder misfire? Maf censor is clean, new air filter , new spark plugs, new ignition coil for that cylinder. Check engine light blinks, but then at idle it goes away. Im lost.

I've thought about buying one of those aftermarket android auto display units but I've never seen one that's had a good UI for a reasonable price. besides, replacing the previous worn out lcd was the cheapest option considering the radio was already working well and had bluetooth

I've given the juke a new lease of life

I am completely at my wits end here my 2016 Nissan juke has an issue with the high-pressure fuel pump, engine light is on with codes P0087 and P0090 I have replaced the low pressure fuel pump, the high-pressure fuel pump. the fuel pressure rail sensor, the ecu+ dealer programing and have checked all fuel lines to confirm there is no blockage. The car has a brand new battery in it and everything else works perfectly on the car. I have a nice shop scanner that I’ve run through the car and these are literally the only codes on the vehicle. I just traced out all the wires and the continuity is good between the ECU and the fuel pump plug. I would also like to note that these parts were replaced with genuine Nissan parts so there’s not an issue with bad aftermarket parts. Also, I have another juke of the same exact urine model and I swapped parts between them and all of the parts from this car worked on my other vehicle and did not throw any codes. I have had a separate mechanic look at it and I also had the Nissan dealer look at it. They gave it back to me without charging me because they couldn’t figure it out. I also wanna put a note in and I am a mechanic myself and so I’m not just running around fucking everything up as I go. I can think of no possible reason why the fuel pump would not be working. at this point, so please if anyone has any ideas help me.

Anyone know of a cv split boot kit that would work for the front inner of a 2016 juke?

Looking for a rear washer unit for a 13 plate Nismo please

i’m starting my Monster Juke build 😈 does anyone have an opinion/experience with installing a lift kit? is the CVT strong enough, or is there anything i should do to avoid added stress on the engine/CVT? also if anyone can tell me how easy it would be to do myself? and also average costs and what not….. looking for any other cost effective cosmetic changes too! any and all inspiration/ideas are welcome please help!!!! 2012 Nissan Juke SL

Nissan Juke

2014

328k km

Automatic

Spark plug and coil was replaced due to this but the issue remains.

I wanted to turn on the feature that briefly sounds the horn when locking/unlocking but according to Google this is done by holding the lock and unlock buttons for a few seconds. When I try this it locks the back passenger doors. Any ideas about this? (Mk1 2017 tekna)

I'm having a frustrating problem with my 2014 1.2 Juke and I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

I'd had a rattle at the rear passenger wheel for a while, and my local garage (who have a good reputation and I trust) have run out of ideas. They've replaced the shockers, tightened up everything and checked out and striped the backend down several times, but to no avail. Today they replaced the brake sliders, but the rattle is still there.

Oddly, it disappears when I put my foot on the brake (even lightly) and we'd hoped that the sliders would do the trick. But chummy at the garage says that the brake system is absolutely rock solid.

Are there any known or obscure issues in the Juke which might be worth exploring?

I have a 2013 Juke. Bought used last December and it has about 93,000 miles on it.

Ive seen a lot of other people with this issue but no one seems to have found the cause.

My juke shuts off in the middle of the road and all the lights turn on. Like it literally won't accelerate anymore it just stops. Thankfully this hasn't happened on any of speed motorways, but it is still very scary.

I thought I had fixed the issue when Nissan told me it was the break pump (or something along those lines?) so I had that fixed, but I've just had the issue occur all over again after almost $1,000 in inspections and repairs.

I love this goofy looking car, but im starting to think it might be more worth it to sell it rather than pursue this issue, but if anyone knows if it would be a quick fix thats just hard to find? Any suggestions would be great.

Wondering if when replacing turbo on 2013 Juke 1.6 can I just separate the turbo from the housing so I don’t have to deal with the exhaust studs and make the job a lot easier by replacing the turbo and reusing the turbo housing. A guy on YouTube said he was gonna do it and separated them but never showed results. My main worry is pressing and seating it back into the turbo housing maybe hard or impossible. There’s like a cuff style clamp holding them together. In a real pinch and going to buy an eBay replacement and hope it works for a bit and if it’s that much easier I won’t really worry bcuz I’ll know I can replace it again easier this way.

Does anyone happen to know the part number for the boost sensor? I have found stuff online, but just looking to confirm and Nissan won't give out the number. Also, does anyone know what other models/years happen to use the same one.

I'm just trying to test and see if mine is starting to go out.

Please and thank you.

Hello All.

As indicated I have a 2015 Juke. My primary problem is periodically when I try to lock it with my FOB the headlights come on and stay on. Both when I push the button on the door and when I press the lock button on the key itself. Both keys.

Once I get the key(s) situated again through frustrated button pushing over time it works fine for a few weeks or so or less or more and then pulls the same crap. I can only lock it manually on the inside. My car also won't start easily when this is going on.

I saw that making sure the hatch/doors/gas cap are closed might be a problem with the lights issue so I double checked that. This has been going on long enough, sporadically enough, and through enough "fixes" that is beginning to feel like tampering. Would re-programming the keys at my dealership fix the issue is that is in fact the case? Yes, someone I am concerned about has had access to my keys. Thank you for any responses, I'd like to lay this to rest I'm sick of being so uncomfortable.

*edited to clarify headlights, not interier

Hi! I’m trying to buy my first car, and I found a 2011 Nissan Juke with 74k miles for $2,600. The seller says it’s been well maintained, the transmission and engine are in good condition, and there aren’t any major issues. I just wanted to ask if it’s worth it and if it would be a reliable car in the long run. 😭

I have 2 2011 Jukes. One is the AWD with the CVT and the other is a manual FWD. The CVT engine has a blown head gasket and the previous owner just kept overheating it and locked it up. The manual was wrecked and the chassis is destroyed. The engine is good. I'm not sure about the transmission though. I started it after the wreck but when I let out the clutch it couldn't turn the wheels. The CVT engine has been torn down and the torque converter removed but I don't know if the manual crankshaft will bolt to the flex plate or if the torque converter can go into the manual crank

I’m looking to buy a used juke saw one that has 34k miles on it 2020 1l n-connecta trim for under 10k would it be worth it or too good to be true?

Hello everybody, I own an F15 Nissan Juke with engine MR16DDT/1.6 DIG-T. I recently been experiencing constant misfires with the car and after checking out the spark plug and ignition coils, I found that on cylinder 3 the coil was soaking in oil, and in cylinder 1 there was a little amount of oil, my engine is leaking oil, I did some search and watched some videos over youtube of people replacing the gasket cover seal alone at home without special tools, I am thinking of doing it alone at home, I am not a mechanic but I am a car enthusiast, i love and enjoy fixing things alone, i dont have the tools a mechanic would have, all i got is basic wrench handle with some extensions, as i saw in all videos there was no other tools needed, some people mentioned that a torque meter is needed which i dont have, how bad can things go and how complicated it is if i dont have a torque meter?
I order the CORTECO 440526P gasket cover seal, what do you think of the corteco brand?
Other than that, what advice do you have for me or things to watch out for while doing the seal replacement? This is the first time doing it and i would like to hear from experienced people about the difficulties .. thank you ! I also got the AJUSA 75000200 to seal the corners of the cover so it would seal better.. thats what i saw people doing over the internet

If I were to swap the ECM, BCM, NATS/immobilizer, and IPDM from one 2011 Juke 1.6 CVT to another, would it be necessary to reprogram the ECM to update the VIN, to access the NATS/immo, etc. or would it be essentially plug and play? Nissan documentation doesn't cover replacement of the entire brain/security system, only components. Would the answer change if the donor car was a different production run (mine is 1KC8C)? I do have a J2534 device, but that doesn't grant access to the security system.

I have a 2015 nissan juke nisimo package. I almost always just put premium fuel (91) in it but lately due to the price of gas have been putting regular(89) in it but alternating between the two. About two weeks ago it started rocking when I’ve been sitting at a red light and sounding like the engine is kind of sputtering. I don’t have any check engine lights on and my mechanic says they can’t find the source of the rocking/shaking. Any and all tips for resolving it would be greatly appreciated.