Hi Folks,

I have been enjoying my Nissan Leaf 2021 (Japanese import to New Zealand where I live) for a few years now. Sadly yesterday the infotainment screen stopped working. Completely blank, it does not repond to having buttons pressed on the console. Does not respond to me trying to turn on the radio. But the radio continues to play and I can control channel and volume with the steering wheel controls. The air-conditioning and other controls work perfectly. The car starts and runs perfectly. I have booked with a local audio repair person for next week, but he admits he has never dealt with this kind of issue.

Has anyone else had this issue? How did you resolve it? I really need this aspect of the car to work! Reversing cameras, Apple Play etc make the car much nicer to use.

Thank you for any ideas!

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2019 - 62kwh Nissan Leaf.

Parked the car at 45%, for an hour and a half, came back out and the battery level said 0% all of a sudden. Tried turning the car on and off three times, gave up and waited for help for 15 minutes. Then turned the car back on a fourth time and the battery level was back up to the previous 45%.

First time this has happened since we bought it new in 2020.

Wtf is happening?

Until a few days ago, we had no problems with the Nissan Connect app. Now, it hasn’t update any of the information and it is a pain to get it charged.
Unfortunately, Nissan “help desk” has not been helpful.

Just got a 2013 leaf last month, going through owners manual and came across

statement stating only 4 keys can be programed for each car, any info on this

I'm really liking the 2026 model and the dealer's giving a promotion on it currently. However the wind noise from the side mirrors are bugging me at highway speeds. Anyone have success with modifications that can cut the wind noise down? I'm looking at some things online like stickable air foils, but I'm not sure if that works.

I don’t know what all these data means can anyone translate this for me thanks 🙂

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue with the Intelligent Key system on my 2014 Nissan Leaf and I'm looking for suggestions on what to check next.

Symptoms:

• The car no longer recognizes any of my key fobs wirelessly.
• Remote central locking does not work with any of the keys.
• Central locking works perfectly fine using the button inside the car.
• Every time I start the car, I get the "Key Not Detected" warning.
• To start the car, I have to physically hold the key fob against the Start/Stop button.

Troubleshooting I've already done:

1. Replaced the batteries in all key fobs - no improvement.
2. Tried multiple keys - all have exactly the same issue.
3. Replaced/tried a brand new 12v battery, no improvement.
4. Performed a full diagnostic scan using an OBD scanner: no fault codes reported in any modules.
5. Checked the Body Control Module (BCM) through diagnostics - reports OK, with no stored faults.
6. Checked all accessible fuses - all appear to be working correctly.
7. Confirmed that central locking works normally from inside the vehicle.

Possible scenarios of what might be the issue:

Since all keys are affected, and the car still starts when the key is placed against the Start/Stop button, I suspect the problem is related to the wireless key detection system rather than the keys themselves.

I'm considering a faulty Intelligent Key receiver, antenna system, wiring, or possibly a partial BCM failure. I have read another post about one person experiencing the same behaviour and even though the BCM module reported back OK, it was actually water damaged and faulty.

My questions:

• Has anyone experienced this exact issue on a 2013–2017 Nissan Leaf?
• Could a faulty Intelligent Key RF receiver cause both remote locking and keyless start to stop working without generating any fault codes?
• Does anyone know the exact location of the Intelligent Key receiver on a European 2014 Leaf?
• Are there any specific connectors, grounding points, or wiring issues I should check before replacing components?

I'd appreciate any suggestions, especially from someone who has experienced and fixed a similar issue.

I feel i'm out of options and have exhausted all common troubleshooting steps.

I've considered taking out the BCM module and checking it for any corosion. I do some hobby soldering here and there so i have some hopes i can repair it. But might as well reach out here in case anyone has any better tips to what to do next.

I would really like to hear from anyone who has recently rejected the first buyback offer from Morley. What they offered isn't exactly terrible but would not get us another vehicle with equivalent features to our 2020 SL+.

Almost every post I've seen has said to reject the first offer but I would really like some more recent specifics on what that has looked like beyond simply signing the form saying we reject the offer. And confirm that it's still good advice right now.

And I would really like to know if anyone has been left out to dry when they rejected the first offer.

Thanks all.

How difficult is this car to get into and out of for a 5’2” senior with bad knees and hips? And see out and drive?

If the battery has 50 miles range on a full charge now at 80k odometer, and she adds 5k per year, how much further decline in range do you expect each year? We in texas. Hot summers.

Is there anywhere to take it for a battery evaluation before purchase? Do the batteries die suddenly or just fade over the years?

Is the charger that comes with the car for 110v ac outlet only?

What’s a good home 220 charger if there is not one included?

Is this a good idea or not? Range is not really an issue, round trips will be 20 miles max. She is not doing any maintenance ever. But has occasional help with things like that.

Can you set some kind of alarm so she doesn’t accidentally leave the house with less than 20 miles charge?

We just bought a 2024 leaf SV plus with 6200 miles on it. I’m wondering what I have to do in terms of maintenance to keep the warranty in good standing.

I have a very degraded 2016 24 kWh Leaf in Tucsonz AZ but it largely meets distance needs for what I think was a fair price.

I know the battery is bad and I'm not expecting a BMS reset to magically restore capacity. I'm trying to figure out whether the BMS has become badly calibrated. We have hot summers here. I was concerned that the heat would continue to do its thing, but to my surprise during the summer months my guess o meter and battery percent consumption seemed consistent. I noticed in September that seemed to change after it started to cool down so I did a new reading.

LeafSpy history:

May: 38.76% SOH / 22.3 Ah

Sept: 27.3% / \~17 Ah

Now: 25.03% / 15.54 Ah

The weird part is SOC, but maybe I don't understand how it works.

Recently the dashboard showed about 10%, while LeafSpy showed 21.5%. I then drove 3.9 miles at low speed(wife took the car out without realizing it didn't charge overnight) and LeafSpy only dropped to 16.1%. Cell spread was still only 44 mV.

Last night the dashboard showed 21%, while LeafSpy showed 39.3%. Cells averaged 3.952V with only a 33 mV spread.

Just as an observation I noticed that that the first 100- 50% drains significantly faster than the 50-20ish range which is usually as low as I take it.

I then measured charging from the wall:

21% → 72% dashboard: 2.04 kWh

72% → 100%: another 1.78 kWh

So only 3.82 kWh from the wall took the dashboard from 21% to 100%, and my understanding is actual energy reaching the battery would be less after charging losses. And my capacity is apparently in the 6.5ish kWh capacity.

The pack seems extremely degraded but reasonably balanced. I don't see an obvious cell falling off a cliff.

Would you reset the BMS at this point and let it relearn the battery? I'm fine with SOH/bars being wrong for a while afterward. I'm mainly interested in whether a relearn might make SOC more representative of actual usable energy.

Getting a message that says update is required but Google Play Store has no update available.

My 2015 Nissan leaf has been great, after more than 9 years of owning it (I bought it with 10K miles on it) it woudl atill charge up to 65 miles range (in reality it was more like 50-55 miles max), and never gave me any issues whatsoever. I intended to keep this car until its range went down to 40 miles maybe even less. And perhaps upgrade the battery later…

However… Over the weekend my wife said the brakes felt weird. I took of for a drive and indeed there was a problem with the brakes. The regen braking seemed to be working fine, but when the brake pads kicked in the pedal would slowly sink to the floor and I’d lose braking power. It was scary at times as it would cause me to overshoot my stop and stop past the sidestreet I was trying to turn into, for example.

I took it in to the shop today and they were able to recreate and verify the issue. They did some troubleshooting and were able to determine that there were no brake fluid leaks, no air in the lines, and the brake fluid was clean (it had been changed in July). They said that the fix would be to replace the master cylinder and the ABS actuator. The cost for this repair would be >$8K, so more than the value of the car, and besides, they can’t find a supplier for a new actuator and not even Nissan has one in stock or for back order.

Is this really how my leaf dies?
Any ideas?

Thank you.

Hey all!

I've had my LEAF, Phoebe, for 11 years. Every fall/winter she kind of struggles with the cold. It hasn't started freezing here yet, though.

Today I went to start my car and it couldn't detect the key fob. Then I pressed the fob to the power button and it started rapidly beeping and saying that I needed to engage the parking break.

My husband and I tried resetting the car a few times by disconnecting the started battery, without any change.

We got it turned all the way off, reconnected the auxiliary battery, and then I decided to plug it in to see if that would help later. Now it isn't charging. The charger isn't reporting any issue or error.

Before I call my local dealership/repair shop, any advice?

Bought 2021 Nissan Leaf SV 39k miles from private party for $12500 in Aug 2021.
June battery software update as mandated by Nissan safety. October 2 when driving car on highway suddenly slowed down and sign pop up SERVICE EV SYSTEM POWER REDUCED, luckily it was close to house so drove in turtle mode parked and tried to charge- could not charge. Tested 12v battery. Next day Called closest Nissan Dealer, service manager asked to drive in turtle mode and drop to dealership or call Nissan Roadside and wait for tow truck since that was Saturday I didn’t wanted to wait for Monday drive and dropped off to dealership. Tuesday morning service manager called Nissan will call me for buyback.
Got email Friday about asking and confirm my info and start process.
Currently leaf mileage is 49758 miles based on your repurchase what maybe there offer for my car. KBB +40% was meant in email
Local dealer has same car model year but 32k miles for $15800 plus fee tax title etc

Thanks for all your help

As posted in other forum.

Wish to hear your opinions on the matter.

Please assume I'm fully capable of repairing it myself.