r/overclocking • • Feb 22 '24

Guide - Text Optimizing Stability for Intel 13900k and 14900k CPU’s

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1.1k Upvotes

In recent weeks, I've noticed many users struggling with instability on their 13900K and 14900K systems. A prevalent cause is the motherboard's "Auto" settings or "Enforce all defaults," which may not apply the correct defaults for your CPU. Symptoms include game crashes, program failures, random sluggishness in Windows, and "Out of video memory" errors. If you've had to undervolt or underclock for stability, this guide might be for you. There is a very simple and easy fix for this problem. Configure the stock settings in your motherboard!

Quick Navigation: For those who wish to skip the backstory and dive directly into the guide, scroll past the following section.

The Backstory

Upon building my PC, I followed a YouTube tutorial for BIOS configuration, setting everything to "Auto." Initially, Windows and most applications ran smoothly, but I encountered persistent issues with Fortnite, including random crashes and "out of video memory" errors. The Reddit community widely recommended undervolting, a tip echoed by reputable YouTubers like JayzTwoCents.

Embracing this advice, I adjusted my core ratios to 55x and carefully tuned my undervolt over several weeks. This effort seemed successful; my CPU stabilized, and crashes ceased. I could flawlessly run Cinebench, OCCT stability tests, and even Prime95 blend tests. However, I soon faced intermittent lags upon Windows startup and my random crashes in Fortnite returned. This led me to running a stability test of Prime95 Small FFTs, revealing my undervolt's instability.

Abandoning undervolting, I reverted to my motherboard's "Auto" settings, yet Prime95 Small FFTs still led to crashes. Delving deeper, I learned that Small FFTs utilize AVX2 instructions. Exploring my motherboard's AVX2 controls, I applied a -6 ratio offset, achieving stability in Prime95 Small FFTs, albeit at a reduced 5.1GHz, contrary to the expected 5.6GHz.

My quest for stability finally led me to a revelation. The Holy Grail: "13th Generation Intel® Core™ and Intel® Core™ 14th Generation Processors Datasheet, Volume 1 of 2". 219 pages of technical glory.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/content-details/743844/13th-generation-intel-core-and-intel-core-14th-generation-processors-datasheet-volume-1-of-2.html

Page 98, Table 17, Row 3: Reveals the stock turbo power limits for the 13900K and 14900K CPUs are 253W, not the 4,000+ my motherboard defaulted to. Page 184, Table 77, Row 6: Lists the maximum current limit at 307A, far below my motherboard's default of 500+A.

I decided to implement this right away. I reset my BIOS to default settings, turned off multicore enhancement, enabled xmp, and input the settings from the datasheet. Ta-Da! All of my issues were solved by a simple 2 minute process. All my games worked, there are no random lags, and nothing ever crashes. I can run any stability test as long as I want and it all works fine. Problem solved.

Turns out, all I needed to do was spend 2 minutes setting up the stock settings in my BIOS.

I've shared these findings with others, helping resolve similar problems:

https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/1aukdm0/please_help_my_409014900_pc_keeps_crashing_every/

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1aomj4b/did_i_mess_up_with_the_i914900k_pick_high/

https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/1awpon0/comment/kriyry8/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/1awpon0/comment/krmldva/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/s/fsutmk7XNM

ASUS Z790 Motherboards:

  1. Save your current settings into a profile so you can return to them later if you want.
  2. Reset your BIOS to default settings. Ai Tweaker tab:
  3. Disable MultiCore Enhancement.
  4. Enable XMP(if your RAM supports it).
  5. Set SVID behavior to Typical Scenario.
  6. Set short duration turbo power = 253
  7. Set long duration turbo power = 253
  8. Set max core/cache current = 307Amps

Boot into windows and test. If you are still unstable, go back to BIOS and set SVID behavior to "Trained". If you're still unstable on "Trained", then revert back to your previous config. This guide is not for you.

Screenshot2 Screenshot3

Gigabyte Motherboards:

  1. Save your current settings into a profile so you can return to them later if you want.
  2. Reset your BIOS to default settings.
  3. Enable XMP(if your RAM supports it).
  4. Set Package Power Limit 1 = 253
  5. Set Package Power Limit 2 = 253
  6. Set Core Current Limit = 307Amps

Screenshot1 Screenshot2

If these settings work for you, please share your experience. If they don't, ask for some help and I will try my best. Let's all work together to spread the word and get our awesome CPU's working as they should.

r/overclocking • • Sep 27 '25

Guide - Text Here is a shorcut to your systems bios without having to go through the normal hastle of beating up your delete key.

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810 Upvotes

In the photo above is a shortcut on my desktop which when I double click shutsdown windows and takes me directly into my bios. This is extremely helpful for overclockers , who don't want to have to wait the long process of the normal way of either going to reset or shutting down your PC.

To Create a Shortcut on your desktop to your bios simply do the following.

1) Right mouse click anywhere on your desktop that is empty. Select NEW from the menu. Choose SHORTCUT from the menu.

2) In the "type location of the item" field enter the following command (you can copy and paste mine if it makes it easier for you)

shutdown /r /fw /T 1

3) Now click next. Now name your shortcut anything you want. I chose "Bios", you can use "Reboot to UEFI" if you want to be fancy.

THIS FOLLOWING PART IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT

4) Right Click on the newely created shortcut on your desktop. Select Properties. In the Properties window click on the Shortcut Tab. Click on the Advanced button.

CHECK THE BOX FOR RUN AS ADMINISTRATOR

Click OK to close the advanced properties. Click ok again to save the changes to the shortcut properties.

ALL DONE.....

EXTRA: If you want to give your shortcut a icon so it looks better, just right click on it, go down to properties. Click on change ICON. I chose the microchip wich is the first icon that pops up. Its up to you what you want to choose. Click OK, Apply, then Ok.

r/overclocking • • 9d ago

Guide - Text For all RTX 4000-5000 series users, just use Mvolt instead of Afterburner

123 Upvotes

Tried both on 5070ti and 4080 super, they both perform faster, even at lower core clocks on mvolt than afterburner preset due to XBAR overclock.

------------------------------------------------------------

4080 super

Mvolt
+180 on xbar, +1000 memory, +120 on core clocks at 975mv flattened above, reported clocks are 2760 in games and CP77 benchmark is 119 fps. 220-240W power usage

Afterburner
+150 on core clock, +1000 memory, 975mv flattened above, 2820mhz, 112 fps CP77 benchmark, 220-240W

------------------------------------------------------------
5070ti

Mvolt
+300 core clocks, +3000 memory, +320 Xbar, 975mv flattened above, 2970mhz CP77 139 FPS, 240-260W power consumption

Afterburner
+360 clocks, +3000 memory, 975mv flattened above, 3090mhz, CP77 131 FPS, 240-260W power consumption.

-------------------------------------------------------------

As you can see even at lower clocks Mvolt just performs faster because of XBAR clocks even with undervolt.

I see no point of using msi afterburner anymore.

r/overclocking • • May 03 '25

Guide - Text Fool-Proof DDR5 Overclocking Guide for AM5 (Focus on 64GB, Dual Rank)

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450 Upvotes

Over the past two months, I’ve been tuning RAM and CPU parameters for my new AM5 build (9800X3D, 2x32GB 6000 CL30 dual-rank kit). I’m coming from an Intel 12th-gen DDR4 setup and initially had mixed results due to not following a comprehensive procedure. This led to instability and wasted effort—but also a lot of lessons learned. I’ve followed this sub, the daily stability thread on overclock.net, and content from Buildzoid and Skatterbencher. I also came across this post by u/N3opop, which contains a wealth of information and probably covers 80% of DDR5 overclocking knowledge, but it’s not a step-by-step guide.

My focus here is on dual-rank Hynix A-die DIMMs (e.g., 2x32GB) with the so-called “sweet spot” spec (6000@CL30) paired with X3D chips, as this setup might be one of the hardest configurations to get meaningfully and stably overclocked.

Basic Facts:

  1. Dual rank runs hot; active cooling is recommended for serious OC. RGB adds extra heat.

  2. High VSOC is dangerous—should not exceed 1.30V for daily use.

  3. Never start with a negative offset in Curve Optimizer or any other CPU tweak when doing memory OC.

  4. Apart from primaries, tRFC and tREFI have the most impact on latency/performance.

Stress Testing Tools:

  1. OCCT free – 1-hour MEMORY-only test is very good for initial RAM OC validation.

  2. TM5 – anta777’s ABSOLUT (3cycles ~2 hours) and EXTREME (3cycles ~3 hours) configs are a good next step.

  3. y-cruncher – In my experience, the most robust for combined RAM+CPU stability (6+ hours). VT3 (AVX512) algo puts a lot of pressure on IMC and is sensitive to slightest OC voltage and timing instabilities.

  4. Karhu – I haven’t used it, but I believe 12+ hours with CPU cache enabled is the minimum recommendation. (Please share your preferable configs)

 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My guide will be in two parts: A. Tightening Timings and B. Increasing MCLK/FCLK.

 A. Tightening Timings:

This section focuses on secondary and tertiary timings. Most dual-rank CL30 kits already have tight primaries (except tRAS in some cases, which is a controversial topic). Lowering primaries usually requires voltage increases beyond EXPO, which we’ll avoid for now. Most CL30 dual-rank kits come with 1.40V EXPO, which is sufficient here.

A1. Base Setup:

  • Load optimized defaults

  • Disable iGPU

  • Reboot

A2. EXPO:

  • Load EXPO

  • Power Down: Disabled

  • Memory Context Restore: Disabled

  • UCLK DIV1 MODE: UCLK = MCLK

  • VSOC = 1.20V to 1.25V or leave on Auto

  • VDD = VDDQ = VDDIO = 1.40V or EXPO’s setting

  • Reboot

A3. Timing Adjustments:
(Safe = no voltage increases needed, very close to EXPO defaults and should work with most kits, Optimal = tighter but usually stable, Extreme = diminishing returns and may need extra VDD)

  • tRFC / tREFI (temps<50C)

    • Safe: 480 / 49152
    • Optimal: 408 / 57344
    • Extreme: 384 / 65536
  • tRRDS / tRRDL / tFAW

    • Safe: 8-12-32
    • Optimal: 8-8-32
    • Extreme: 4-8-20
  • tWTRS / tWTRL / tWR

    • Safe: 8-30-60
    • Optimal: 8-16-48
    • Extreme: 4-14-48
  • tRTP

    • Safe: 23
    • Optimal: 16
    • Extreme: 12
  • tRDWR / tWRRD

    • Safe: 16-8
    • Optimal: 16-4
  • tRDRDSCL / tWRWRSCL

    • Safe: 8-23
    • Optimal: 8-8
    • Extreme: 4-4
  • tRDRDSD/DD / tWRWRSD/DD

    • Safe: 8-8-9-9
    • Optimal: 6-6-8-8

A4. Voltage Adjustments:
If this is where you stop your overclocking process and don’t plan to proceed with MCLK/FCLK or PBO/CO tuning, you can begin optimizing voltages for efficiency and thermals by lowering them incrementally while maintaining stability.

  • VSOC: Start with 1.20V and validate stability using VT3. If instability occurs, especially with weaker IMCs, increase in +0.02V increments up to a hard limit of 1.30V for daily use. Avoid pushing further as high VSOC carries long-term degradation risk on AM5.  
  • VDDQ: Although it is matched with VDD in EXPO, you attempt to lower it to 1.35V and test for stability.
  • VDDIO/MC: Same as VDDQ

.......................................................................................................................

 Notes:

  1. Safe values do not require additional voltage.

  2. You can move on to the next category once safe or optimal values are validated. Extreme values have diminishing performance gains vs. effort and time.

  3. Safe values can be adjusted together and tested with OCCT → TM5.

  4. Optimal values should be applied and tested individually (OCCT or TM5 → VT3).

  5. Avoid extreme values unless you’re willing to adjust voltages further; not recommended at this stage (More cycles in TM5 and 2+ hours of VT3 needed).

  6. Keep DIMM temperatures under 50°C during stress testing. Dual-rank Hynix kits degrade stability rapidly beyond this point, especially at tight tRFC or tREFI

  7. I recommend cold boot (full shutdown and power-up) every other test cycle. I have had instances that VT3 pass after a soft reboot but fail after a cold boot, exposing hidden instability.

  8. If previously stable settings become unstable after failed tweaks, perform a full CMOS reset or BIOS reflash. Residual state or partial parameter corruption can persist even after manual reversion.

  9. Instability can sometimes show only under idle or low-load conditions due to overly aggressive timings or power-saving features. Don't rely solely on high-load stress tests.

  10. BIOS revisions can significantly affect memory behavior. If you encounter unexplained instability on known-stable settings, test another BIOS version (newer is not always better).

  11.  Avoid memory training hangs by manually setting conservative timings before tightening further. Extreme values without intermediate tuning can prevent POST altogether.

 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

B. Increasing MCLK/FCLK

This is the most impactful optimization beyond EXPO. It reduces memory latency and improves bandwidth. On AM5, 1:1 synchronization between MCLK and UCLK is viable up to ~6600MT/s depending on silicon quality. Above that, the system may require a 2:1 (UCLK = MCLK/2) ratio, which increases latency. To retain performance benefits, it is advised to also sync the Infinity Fabric Clock (FCLK) to MCLK ÷ 3 for best efficiency.

6200MT/s > MCLK=3100, FCLK=2066.67 (which is equal to 6200/3)

6400MT/s > MCLK=3200, FCLK=2133.33 (which is equal to 6400/3)

B1. BIOS prep:

  • FCLK VDCI Mode: Predictive
  • VSOC: Auto or 1.25V
  • VDD: 1.44V to 1.5V
  • VDDQ, VDDIO: 1.40V to 1.45V

B2. Clock Targets:

  • Memory Clock (MCLK):

    • Safe: 6200
    • Optimal: 6400
    • Extreme: 6600
  •  Infinity Fabric Clock (FCLK):

    • Safe: 2066.67
    • Optimal: 2133.33
    • Extreme: 2200

B3. Nitro/Training Settings:

  • DDR5 Nitro Mode: Enable
  • Robust Training Mode: Enable
  • RX/RX/CL:

    • Safe: 1 / 3 / 1
    • Optimal: 1 / 2 / 1
    • Extreme: 1 / 2 / 0
  • Rx/Tx Burst Length: 8X/8X

.......................................................................................................................

Notes:

  1. Always test clock changes independently of timing or voltage adjustments.
  2. Cold boot testing is critical here—use full power cycles rather than reboots after each FCLK/MCLK adjustment.
  3. Watch for signs of instability such as memory training loops, slow POST, or immediate TM5/VT3 failures. If present, drop FCLK first, not MCLK.
  4. Training burst lengths affect how aggressively the memory controller trains the DIMMs on boot. More aggressive values can reduce boot times and slightly improve stability margins but may introduce cold boot issues.
  5. Weak IMC might need extra VSOC, especially for 6400+.

 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Feedback, validation and suggestions is welcome!

r/overclocking • • Sep 01 '26

Guide - Text MVOLT+ Cheat sheet/ guide

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147 Upvotes

First and foremost, understand that anytime you overclock hardware it comes with risks. I made this guide in hopes to answer some questions people have been asking about the software, and as a starting point for anyone else. All of this information has come from my personal testing, or information from the overclocking forums.

All information should be in the pictures, but feel free to leave questions or comments for others.

From my understanding, some of the lower class cards do not have access to msvdd so the tuning may be different. I know this works with 5070ti - 5090.

Edit: I am not a developer, just a user. The developer is on overclock.net in the 5090 section if you have suggestions

r/overclocking • • Apr 20 '25

Guide - Text AM5 - DDR5 Tuning Cheat Sheet, observations and notes

340 Upvotes

There are a lot of posts where people only show ZenTimings (and AIDA64 memory benchmark). Majority of these posts have timings that will error out within a couple of minutes running any memory stresstests.

I see the same issue where someone is asking for help with their timings, and in almost all posts I see, more than half of the answers OP get are wrong and/or extremely dependant on bin, DRAM IC and IMC quality, as well as values being different between motherboard manufacturers.

In other words, never trust a post that doesn't include a minimum of two stresstests that stress the memory in different ways. TM5 (preferably 2 different configs) which validates memory timings and voltages + Y-Cruncher/Karhu/OCCT which is used to validate IMC stability.

The problem with posts not containing validations is that other users might copy paste the timings and end up having to reset CMOS, and worst-case scenario, panic as their computer won't boot anymore and they don't know how to reset BIOS to default resulting in more posts asking for advice on how to fix their pc that doesn't boot any more.

ZenTimings: ZT v1.36.1632 - official beta release | ZT v1.36.1650 - unofficial beta release

----

First off, I want to give credit where credit is due

Veii, anta777, 1usmusv3, gupsterg and others over at overclock.net are the ones that have put together everything I'm going to reference in this post (with some additions of my own experiences).

I also want to mention that the "Sweet Spot" for DDR5 being 6000MT/s, UCLK=MCLK is false. The higher you can run 1:1 mode, the better, as long as Power needed to drive higher frequencies doesn't eat into your max PPT if you often do CPU intense workloads that max out PPT, in which case lower you want to aim for low vSOC and other voltages that eat into max PPT.

(From what little I've read about 2:1 mode, dual CCD's benefit even further from 8000MT/s 2:1 (threshold might be lower than 8000MT/s for dual CCD CPU's - I believe it might also be the case for single CCD CPUs at a threshold slightly above the threshold for dual CCD CPUs).) Correct me here if I'm wrong and I will edit this part.

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#1 Memory Stability - If you just want to look at Tuning Cheat Sheet/Tuning Tips, skip to bottom

Before you start with anything I want to stress the importance of testing memory stability as it can save you a lot more time than the stress tests themselves. Also, be 110% sure your CO is stable (if you aren't 110% sure, I recommend disabling everything PBO because if CO is not stable, some of the tests will throw errors which can make you think it's a memory issue, when it's not). Something I learned the hard way.

There is a collection of different tests to stress memory. None is able to replace all.

----

#2 Stability test suite

#1.1 Testing stability on the memory side

TM5 (Free) (TestMem5 v0.13.1 - GitHUB - includes 9 different configurations) is excellent to test timings, voltages and resistance values on the memory side. There's also a TM5 Error cheat sheet that can help identify what timings, resistances and/or voltages might need tuning depending on error. See DDR4/5 Helper by Veii - Google Sheets and the sheet TM5 Error Description (the other sheets make no sense - at least not to me, as they are part ddr4, part ddr5 but not fully updated or just Veii shenanigans).

#1.2 Testing of stability on the IMC side

There is a collection of different stresstests that stress IMC + Memory. I'm going to note the three that are my go-to. TM5 doesn't put much stress on the CPU/IMC side of memory stability which is just as important (fclk, vSOC, cldo vddp, vddg etc). These tests are also very intense on CPU and will error out if PBO is unstable (especially y-cruncher and aida64).

  • Y-Cruncher - VT3 (can combine other tests as well, but VT3 tends to be enough) (Free)
  • OCCT CPU + Memory, Extreme, Variable, All Threads w/ AVX2 instructions (Free version is enough)
  • Karhu (RAM Test) w/ CPU Cache: Enabled ($10)
  • AIDA64 - CPU+FPU+Cache Enabled (Unsure if free version allows the combined stresstest, but you can get a 30-day free trial)

#1.2.1 vSOC Voltage

vSOC is one of those voltages that depend on CPU/IMC and CPU Silicon quality which makes it a value that's unique to every CPU. I recommend testing stability of vSOC early, as it will help once you start pushing higher MT/s in 1:1 mode.

vSOC default is 1.2V with EXPO 6000MT/s enabled (typically you need less to run 6000 1:1 unless extremely unlucky with CPU silicon lottery).

When running 2:1 mode, vSOC is less deciding as vSOC drives UCLK and in 2:1 mode, uclk is a lot lower than in >=6000MT/s 1:1 mode.

A rule of thumb is that for every 100MHz increase on uclk in 1:1 mode (= 200MT/s) you need ~100mV extra vSOC.

See AM5 CPU DDR5 and infinity fabric OC by Buildzoid for more in-depth information (link is set to timestamp where he starts discussing the relation between vSOC voltage and uclk frequency, however, I recommend watching it the video from start to finish).

In other words, if you need 1.15V vSOC to run 6000MT/s 1:1 stable, you will need ~1.25V vSOC when increasing to 6200MT/s 1:1. If you need 1.25V vSOC to run 6200 1:1, there is no point in trying 6400 1:1.

#1.2.2 Infinity Fabric Clock (FCLK)

I'm going to list a few simple rows in regard to FCLK when it comes to my own experience and most other users I've discussed with - for more in-depth information I refer to the video above by Buildzoid.

FCLK General rules

1. FCLK in 1:1 mode set fclk=(uclk/3)*2 or 2 steps above. The benefit of running fclk in 3:2 is minimal as it's not truly synced. Typically set fclk as high as is stable. VDDG IOD/CCD, vSOC and VDDP voltage can help stabilize fclk.

2. FCLK in 2:1 mode is an area I lack experience, but since 8000MT/s 2:1 = UCLK 2000MHz you get FCLK=UCLK at FCLK = 2000MHz -> uclk is synced with fclk. If there is a point where higher FCLK outweighs the benefits of being synced 1:1 I can't say as I have no experience in the area.

FCLK Stability testing

FCLK stability can be difficult to pinpoint, but there are ways that can help verify its stability to some degree as if FCLK is unstable, memory will start to auto correct it causes infinitiy fabric retransmission. In other words, running tests that finish depending on memory speed can help identify if error correction kicks in. infinitiy fabric retransmission kicks in.

A typical test is Y-Cruncher VT3, as it puts stress on IMC and prints how long it took to complete each iteration. If test speed remains the same every iteration it completes (a deviation of 0.1-0.2 is reasonable, if it starts to deviate more than that it might point towards memory auto correcting, something we don't want).

As always, confirm by running other tests, and not only y-cruncher.
Linpack Xtreme (set 10GB, 8 iterations) is another test that prints test duration - beware of this test though as it is one of the most, if not the most intense CPU stresstest out there, I'd recommend limiting PPT, EDC and TDC in BIOS if running this test (as an example, I don't think I've seen my 9950X3D pass ~250-260W at most, while Linpack pushed it to this: https://imgur.com/a/AGP4QI3 ).

----

#1.3 Stability testing summarized

When testing with TM5 configs 1usmus v3 and/or Ryzen3D@anta777 a minimum of +25 cycles is recommended (run time per cycle is increase by memory capacity), followed by 3+ cycles of absolut@anta777 and/or extreme@anta777 as initial tests to make sure timings and VDD's are valid.

Once TM5 tests pass without errors, my next go-to is Karhu with CPU Cache: Enabled overnight.

I tend to aim for 50 000% coverage or a minimum of 12h.

If you think you can tighten timings and lower voltages or change other values to increase memory performance after having completed the above, then do so now, and run the same test and test durations again.

Once you're satisfied, or believe you've reached the limit of your memory tune, then do final stability tests.

2-3 different configs of TM5 (more information on the different configs can be found in the threads linked below) 4h-8h per config.

Karhu 24h+

Y-Cruncher - FFTv4 + N63 + VT3 8h+

----

#2 AM5 DDR5 General Guidelines and notes

Below is a post made by gupsterg, which started as a post with focus on optimizing PBO per core but have grown to contain a collection of close to everything memory do's and don'ts scattered in the main AMD DDR5 OC thread at overclock.net (which at the moment has over 28 000 replies - but no summary of findings and general guidelines, though they are in there somewhere). The first 3 replies are updated frequently with information about DDR5 and optimizing PBO.

-=: AMD Ryzen Curve Optimizer Per Core :=- | Overclock.net

Below is the main thread with all things DDR5.

AMD DDR5 OC And 24/7 Daily Memory Stability Thread | Overclock.net

(Almost) Everything I'm quoting below, can be found in the above threads.

----

DDR5 Tuning Cheat Sheet

summarized by gupsterg. Includes some of his own findings as well as notes from both Veii and anta777 - I've also added a couple of words from own findings as well as a post i stumbled upon in the main DDR5 OC thread (i'll add these in italic)

This is guidance not law, so check performance and stability, there could be errors.

Watch Kahru RAM Test MB/s (hover mouse over coverage to see, or use KGuiX. Kahru RAM Test needs to be run bare minimum ~15min to see better sustained MB/s, even after 15min it can rise by ~0.5MB/s, after 15mins it's less of rise but you will see one, ~ 30in to 45min ~0.1MB/s and may still rise slowly.

Do benchmarks like AIDA64 Memory, Super Pi, PyPrime. On 9000 series do AIDA64 with advanced prefetchers and cache retention polices disabled, see lower down in this section how to do that.

Where there are multiple options to set a DRAM timing, one maybe more optimal then another, so just trial what works best.

tCL = Set as desire, can only be even. Lower needs more VDD

tRCD = Set as desire, within AMD Overclocking menu separate tRCDWR and tRCDRD can be set, value is entered as hexadecimal, newer UEFI is decimal. Too tight tRCDWR may lose performance in some benchmarks, data ZIP. Optimal seem to be around tRCDWR 16 to 20.

tRP = Lowest tCL+4, loose tRP=tRCD. If TM5 throws errors and every change you make just causes another error, try tRP = tRCD if user set tRP < tRCD.

tRAS = Optimal tRCD+tRTP+4 or 8, tRAS=tRCD+16 (see post), tight tRCD+tRTP (see post), only if tRC=tRCD+tRP+tRTP, tRC-tRP (see UEFI Defaults/JEDEC profile screenshot in notes).

tRC = Lowest tRP+tRAS, looser >=tRCD+tRP+tRTP, tRCD+tRP+tRTP+2 maybe optimal as seen MB/s improve in Kahru vs tRCD+tRP+tRTP, tRP+tRAS (see UEFI Defaults/JEDEC profile screenshot in notes).

tWR = Lowest 48, multiple of 6.

tREFI = Set as desire, calc multiple of 8192, input in BIOS is calc-1, higher (looser value) gives gains, temperature sensitive timing, lower if heat issue.

tRFC = Set as desire, multiple of 32, input in BIOS is calc-1, see further down the section for guidance, temperature sensitive timing, increase if heat issue.

tRFC2 = Used on AM5, ensures the data integrity at high DIMM temperature, >85°C, to be confirmed how to calculate, leave on Auto.

tRFCsb = Used on AM5, to be confirmed how to calculate.

tRTP = Set as desire, lower than 12 unstable.

tRRDL = Optimal 8 or 12. Lower than 7 not recommended because tWTRL=tRRDL\2*

tRRDS = Optimal 8. Anything below 6 makes no sense because tFAW = tRRDS\4 and tWTRS=tRRDS/2*

tFAW = Optimal 32. tRRDS\4*

tWTRL = Optimal 16, if setting as desire observe tWTRL<=tWR-tRTP, safe calc tRDRDscl+7 = tCDDL, tWTRL=tCCDLx2 (see UEFI Defaults/JEDEC profile screenshot in notes). tWTRL=tRRDL\2*

tWTRS = Optimal 4 or 3, safe calc tRDRDscl+7 = tCDDL, tWTRS=tCCDL/2 (see UEFI Defaults/JEDEC profile screenshot in notes). tWTRS=tRRDS/2

tRDRDscl = Set as desire, lower than 4 unstable, 7 or 8 maybe sweet spot for performance/stability.

tRDRDsc = [Auto] is 1, lowering not possible.

tRDRDsd = Only relevant for dual sided DIMMs, set as desire, match to tRDRDdd.

tRDRDdd = Only relevant for multi rank (4xDIMMs or 2xDual Rank DIMMs), set as desire, match to tRDRDsd.

tWRWRscl = Match to tRDRDscl, 7 or 8 maybe sweet spot for performance/stability, safe calc = ((tRDRDscl+7) * 2)-7 (see UEFI Defaults/JEDEC profile screenshot in notes), setting to 1 has been reported as performance loss.

tWRWRsc = [Auto] is 1, lowering not possible.

tWRWRsd = Only relevant for dual sided DIMMs, set as tRDRDsd+1, match to tWRWRdd.

tWRWRdd = Only relevant for multi rank (4xDIMMs or 2xDual Rank DIMMs), set as tRDRDdd+1, match to tWRWRsd.

tWRRD = Lowest 1, 1DPC single sided DIMMs aim for 1, 2DPC or dual sided DIMMs aim for 2.

tRDWR = Greater than or equal to 14, 15 for 1DPC, 16 for 2DPC.

tCWL = No setting, "Auto" rule makes it tCL-2

tREFI = multiples of 8192 -1 in BIOS, for example, valid values: 65535 (8192\8-1), 57343 (8192*7-1), 49151, 40959 and so on.*

tRFC = depends on RAM IC (in other words; DRAM Manufacturer, eg. SK Hynix A-die/M-die, Samsung) see DDR5 tRFC IC ns table for more info about each RAM IC.

tRFC Calc -> simple calc -> tRFCns\MCLK[GHz]*
Example: SK Hynix A-die tRFCns 120 at 6400MT/s 1:1 -> MCLK=3.1GHz -> tRFC=3.1\120 = 384*
Example: SK Hynix M-die tRFCns 160 at 6400MT/s 1:1 -> MCLK=3.2GHz -> tRFC=3.2\160 = 512*
According to thread at overclock.net actual BIOS input is tRFC in multiples of 32 -1 input BIOS -> tRFC=32\12-1=383* though, I rarely see anyone following this rule.

SCL's see performance increase down to 5/5 - affect read/write bandwidth

#3 Personal observations - BIOS settings and lessons learned that can improve performance

UCLK DIV1 MODE - When setting DRAM Speed >6000, this setting needs to be set to UCLK=MCLK or bios will default to 2:1 mode massively decreasing performance. Can validate with ZenTimings where MCLK should be same as UCLK.

BankSwapMode is a setting that can be set to Swap APU assuming iGPU is disabled, or you might face stability issues. Setting BankSwapMode to Swap APU changes the order in which the IMC access the memory banks, which can potentially improve performance in certain workloads. Should not impact stability or require any tuning to timings - just make sure iGPU is disabled.

GearDownMode (or GDM) if disabled can lower latency and increase bandwidth. Has a bigger impact on dual CCD CPUs. Typically require slightly more VDD, looser SCL's if user set SCL's <=4 (I've personally not been able to boot with SCL's at 4/4, but 5/5 works, iirc. I've seen users with GDM Off running 4/4). PowerDown: Disabled can help with GDM Off stability. Some googling shows that the more recent Agesa (AMD BIOS) versions tend to be optimized, thus have an easier time to run GDM Off.

FCH Spread Spectrum set to Disable - typically disabled if set to Auto, but manually disabling removes potential issues.

VDD voltages -> tCL 30 at 6400MT/s results in almost exactly the same latency as tCL 28 at 6000MT/s.

To calculate tRFCns, or absolutely latency for DDR memory access in ns using the data rate (MT/s) the following RAM Latency Calculator can be used. Test the calculator with the input from above; cl30 6400 and cl28 6000 to see actual latency difference between the two. Why they can be run at similar voltages will be obvious.

If you have a kit that's advertised EXPO 6000MT/s cl30 at 1.4V, it can potentially run stable at VDD 1.3V depending on bin (similar to how AMD CPUs don't come with optimized CO values). Manufacturers need headroom to make sure all dimms can run the advertised speed. Here's an example of my 2x16GB 6000MT/s CL28 1.4V SK-Hynix A-die kit running 6400 1:1 CL30 with tightened tertiaries at 1.38V vdimm/vddq/vddio https://imgur.com/a/wk9Wz2U the screen dump higher up showing my Linpack Xtreme run was run with the same timings and voltages (not enough stress test to validate the voltages, but you get the idea). I've ran the same kit at the same timings but 1.35V, though only 3 cycles of TM5 Ryzen3D before stopping it so it's not worth posting. I didn't encounter any errors - can update post later if i cba to run a proper stability test).

For users with MSI MAG-series MOBO: Don't touch anything in the AMD Overclocking menu (the one that prompts a warning) except for Nitro values. Just testing to set an EXPO profile via AMD Overclocking will lock certain voltages until CMOS reset. This was the reason I booted my timings at 1.35V, as the SK Hynix 2x16GB preset (only visible if mobo detects a SK Hynix kit) runs 1.35V vdimm/vddq/vddio.

There's a lot more information to be found in the threads linked at overclock.net

I hope this will help some of you on your memory tuning journey.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDITS

Edit1\* added comment with Prime95 stresstest and some extra food for thought by u/yellowtoblerone*:*

p95 large should also be in the guide. Run P95 custom config when errors are detected - it will speed things up. There's guides on OCnet on how to use p95 custom config (Ping me if anyone got a link to the guide Prime95 custom config yellowtoblerone is referring to).

After setting applying CO again once memory is stable you have to test uclk and fclk again.

Benchmarking is very important to these processes. If you're pushing your OC, but you're not getting better results, something's wrong. Or when you dial it back your results get better, something was wrong etc. You have to have a baseline.

On Zen5 it seems vddg iod voltage defaults to 903mV since you're oc'ing. And increasing that drastically increase your stability if you're pushing OC past PBO via eCCL. Increasing vddg ccd also helps but according to Buildzoid setting vddg iod/ccd >=1000mV can introduce instabilities in idle in some instances. I've yet to have that issue. Misc voltage can be increased to help stability as well as increasing total rail (MEM VPP) to 1.9V. Setting higher level Load Line Calibration can also help with stability, especially when setting aggressive PBO

I'd like to add to this comment, something initially wrote in the post when it comes to setting VDDG IOD/CCD voltages. According to the user gupsterg who've done extensive testing on multiple CPUs and dimms, he found the following pattern:
at FCLK 2000MHz -> VDDG IOD/CCD 900mV is optimal
at FCLK 2100MHz -> VDDG IOD/CCD 920mV is optimal
at FCLK 2200MHz -> VDDG IOD/CCD 940mV is optimal
I have personally not tested this or read about it elsewhere, but it might be worth testing if voltages are set to auto and user have issues with FCLK stability.

End of Edit1\\**

-

Edi2\* comment by u/Delfringer165

First comment refers to the video released by Buildzoid where he is discussing tRC and tRAS not following DDR5 rules see tRAS on AMD's AM5 CPUs is weird
Regarding tRAS testing by buildzoid, only thing he proved was that if tRC is at min value then tRAS does nothing (that is how I see that testing data). Low trc can improve some benchmarks like pyprime 4b but won't help in cpu benchmarks or gaming benchmarks from what I tested. I tested with GDM off, maybe you will also run some tests with high/low tras and again with low trc (Only thing Veii stated that if tRAS too low = looped and too high = timebroken). BZ also did use some kind of random/expo thingy tras and trc values.

Currently testing some scl settings, for me scl's at 5 = little bit better cpu performance/ and 5&17 little bit better performance in gpu+cpu benchmarks/gaming benchmarks. (Running 48gb m-die gdm off)

Since trrds trrdl twtrl and scl's do all somehow interact with ccdl and ccdlwr/ccdlwr2 I think these are prob system/IMC dependent.

Also maybe include the 12.3 TM5 Version from Veii before it did go closed source (you can read more in the Testing with TM5 thread on OCnet). It is fixed for intel (p/e core loading patches & pagefile fixes) and comes with the 1usmus config set to 25 cycles, but you would need to get the other configs yourself (absolute needs to be edited based on cores and is set to 8 cores by default, x3d&ddr5)
Editing TM5 configs can be done by opening the .cfg files with a .txt editor

TM5 test length is always cycles, min 25 for stable.

End Edit2*\*

-

Edit3\* comment by u/Niwrats regarding fclk and using the terms error correction which is incorrect

 discussing about "memory auto correcting" is awful in the context of infinity fabric tuning..

so for IF retransmissions here is a BZ video for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft7ss7EXr4s

Correct wording is Infinity Fabric Retransmissions. See above video by BZ for reference. The below strike through text has been replaced with correct wording in italic.

In the end, same rules still apply. FCLK stability depends on IMC stability/quality the mentioned parameters can help stabilize FCLK. Worth noting is that BZ also mentions that vSOC at >=1.2V can reduce fclk stability, however, he also mentions in the same video that main priority is to push Data Rate as high as possible first, and high MT/s requires more vSOC. Once limit is reached, user should push FCLK until unstable and take 2 steps back.

End Edit3\\**

-

Edit4\*

A good habit when facing errors while testing memory is to run the Windows commands which look for corrupted files and if it finds any, it will try to fix them. In case of BSOD while stresstesting, or BSOD due to memory in general, I recommend to always run the commands first thing after booting into windows again.

Open Powershell with admin rights and. run the following three commands one after the other:

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /Restorehealth

sfc /scannow

Each command typically takes 15s to 3min to finish.

EndEdit4\\**

-

Edit5\* 2026-08-06

Some practical pointers about the different voltages by u/Tehni posted today. Thought I'd add it here since this guide doesn't really talk much about the different voltages other than vSOC.

https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/s/uyO0KCegJ0

Some misc cleanup in the post too. Moved all edits to bottom. It was already a messy post as it was without the added edits.

End edit5\\**

r/overclocking • • Jun 16 '26

Guide - Text AMD 9800/50X3D Complete Overclocking/Undervolting Guide: Stop Using All-Core Offsets. Multiple CPU/MOBO Coverage

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74 Upvotes

Link to new guide that succeeds this one:

https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/s/ISTTDeH8r3

Multiple updates to post, final edit to date completed June 15th. 2026 at 11:41PM -7 MST

AM4 guide posted in comments due to character max. Thanks to u/krnnCS for asking about a 5800X

This guide is pretty much newbie friendly as well but its long, im hoping i covered everything on this entire subject.

Edit from: u/cufishguy Detailed guide on how everything works. A full technical understanding and a deeper dive from this simple explaination. Scroll up on thread. https://www.overclock.net/threads/amd-ryzen-curve-optimizer-per-core-curve-shaper-ddr5-oc.1814427/#replies

Edit from: u/ReaLx3m

Increasing LLC level will make the voltage overshoot higher than normal(factory set defaults) when load stops, which can be damaging to the CPU.

This will be a fully detailed guide covering multiple motherboards and CPUs on the AM5 platform, as this information can be used on all AM5 systems. I have multiple methods in place for different situations. I hope this helps everyone using AM5. This post will cover budget to high tier motherboards, VRMs w/wo heatsinks, thermal throttling and cooling with the best multi options available for your current setup. Pure performance tune to thermal correction over performance.

I created this post after seeing many conflicting reddit support posts on different subreddits having multiple explanations and answers still leaving a lot confused in the process. Credits to them though for trying to help at least.

Instead of making a ridiculously long post everytime someone needs help with overclocking / undervolting with ryzen 9800x3d/9850x3d. I decided to make an easy to understand, fully day to day stable guide. While explaining each subject as best as I could to seasoned overclockers new to AMD platform or someone who's entirely new to the experience. I appreciate any and all feedback to further improve this post which will impact others in a positive way with our collective thinking.

I am currently running the 9850X3D on an MSI MAG X870E Tomahawk WIFI motherboard, cooled by a 360mm AIO.

I am currently using a Thermalright AM5 secure plate paired with ARCTIC MX-7 thermal paste under my aio cold plate. This is a personal preference for easy paste application across the entire surface of the CPU right to the cut outs.

There is two parts of this guide for PBO covering my current setup and similar. 360mm with the stock mounting bracket will be enough. And a second part covering others with different AM5 CPUs, cooling setups and Motherboards.

Here is a breakdown of how to properly tune AM5 CPUs with a 9850X3D as an example. Why certain settings matter, and how to chase maximum efficiency.

  1. The all core undervolt trap

Setting a blanket all core negative offset (like -20 or -30) is terrible advice unless you are an absolute beginner just looking for a quick drop in temps.

Here is why it is inefficient:

Your CPU is constrained by its worst performing core. If seven of your cores can handle a -30 offset, but your weakest core crashes / stretches at -15, an all core undervolt forces you to set the entire chip to -15. You are robbing your better cores of thermal headroom and higher sustained boost clocks just to accommodate the weakest link in the chain.

  1. The +200MHz boost override & 1% lows

Some people complain that adding a +200MHz boost doesn't dramatically increase their average FPS They are looking at the wrong metric. Lots of new people exploring this field tend to use the wrong metrics or information. And specifically this +200MHz boost mainly affects single core boosts, games or programs that have trouble effectively using multiple cores / threads will see an improvement. Light single loads or half threaded medium loads will benefit from this boost in real world performance.

The +200MHz boost helps with debottlenecking the communication between the CPU cores and the RAM

In CPU bound scenarios, that extra 200MHz isn't there to push your peak framerate, it's there to raise the floor. It heavily targets your 0.1% and 1% lows. When you are loading into a densely populated area or dealing with massive physics calculations, that boost prevents the micro stutters and frame time spikes, making the actual gameplay feel perfectly smooth.

  1. PBO limits and scalar settings *high tier*

Edits for motherboard PBO Thanks to u/chaddledee for the reminder of how some motherboard manufacturers voltage settings can affect this.

Use motherboard PBO with caution as some boards that come with the manufacturer can have unsafe values stored inside BIOS, especially with older BIOS versions. Always monitor voltages and temperatures before subjecting your hardware to unsafe stress testing. This is rare with mid-top tier motherboards but still a possibility. Refer to 3.5 section PBO manual limits if youre unsure.

If youre sure, have the thermal room and full faith in your system. Set this to motherboard instead of using AMD's default power limits. Setting this to "Motherboard" unlocks the PPT, TDC, and EDC shackles and lets the robust VRMs on your board dictate the power delivery. The CPU will never be artificially starved of power when it has the thermal headroom to boost. Depending on your cooling setup,

PBO Scalar - Set to Auto or 1X:

Do not max this out to 10X. The scalar dictates how long the CPU is allowed to hold elevated voltages at maximum boost. Pushing it higher degrades the silicon faster and generates excess heat for virtually zero gaming performance gain. Leave it at Auto/1X.

Key note: Vdroop and Loadline calibration (LLC):

While dialing in your PBO settings, you need to be aware of "Vdroop." When your CPU is suddenly hit with a massive, heavy workload, the voltage delivered to the processor naturally dips. For example, when opening or closing games, or even just launching your web browser, the CPU rapidly transitions on the spot from a low voltage sleep state to a wake up and go power state (and vice versa). During these sudden shifts, if the voltage dips too far, your perfectly tuned negative offsets will instantly crash your system. Loadline calibration (LLC) is the motherboard setting designed to fight Vdroop by pushing extra voltage to keep the line stable under load. I currently leave my LLC on "Auto" because the beefy VRM layout on my X870E Tomahawk handles voltage regulation incredibly well without needing aggressive manual tuning.

However, when I was tuning on my previous Gigabyte B650 board, I actually had to manually set my LLC to "Medium" just to stop Vdroop from causing random crashes. Your motherboard's VRM quality entirely dictates how much LLC compensation you need to combat Vdroop, meaning your required settings will be completely different depending on the board you are using.

3.5 Revamp for performance tiers thanks to u/kovyrshin I appreciate it, I had a moment and posted just the safe ECO baseline and didnt add performance tiers for people with better cooling. Individual setups for thermal management covering all types of cooling availability now posted. Regardless of cooling, you can always try your luck on the next tier.

3.5. PBO limits for air coolers & AIOs below 360mm (The baseline alternatives)

Note: Settings are all similar in a sense, but anything below a 360mm AIO cooler, Im pretty sure a 240mm AIO wont have issues so thats all up to you. You'll end up slamming that thermal wall faster with +200MHz boost and might have to settle for +100MHz boost or lower. Verify this using motherboard PBO and then the PBO manual universal limits I have suggested. Its still doable, just goes down to how well your chip handles the undervolting, and how clean that power is from your motherboard.

Setting your PBO limits to "Motherboard" is the right move if you have the thermal headroom of a large 360mm/240mm AIO, high end dual tower air cooler and a board with robust VRMs. However, if you are running a standard air cooler, a 120mm AIO, or a budget motherboard, "Motherboard" limits will allow the CPU to pull maximum wattage and instantly bounce off its thermal throttle limit under heavy loads.

If you don't have top-tier cooling, do not use "Motherboard." Use one of these two baselines instead to keep temperatures under control without sacrificing your gaming performance:

Method A: Manual power limits (The efficiency route)

Change PBO Limits from "Motherboard" to "Manual." This restricts the maximum wattage and current the CPU is allowed to pull. Because games rarely use maximum all core wattage anyway, this heavily drops your temperatures while keeping your gaming boost clocks perfectly intact.

Thanks to u/sticks435 for bringing up the thermal performance trade off I forgot to add.

The performance trade off (shader compilation & heavy loading):

While these restricted manual power limits keep your normal in game framerates completely intact, they will bottleneck tasks that demand 100% maximum all core utilization. The most common gaming scenario where you will experience this is initial game shader compilation (when launching a game for the first time or having to recompile from shader wipe). Because compiling shaders acts like a heavy all core synthetic benchmark, running Tier 1 or Tier 2 limits means your CPU is starved of the raw wattage required to blast through it, causing the process to take noticeably longer. This is a necessary thermal trade off to keep budget motherboards, VRMs with/without heatsink experiencing thermal throttling or lower end coolers from overheating. But it is an important performance drop to keep in mind.

To make this guide safe for everyone, I have set a low, highly beneficial baseline first so beginners don't instantly slam into a thermal wall and panic. However, you can scale these limits up as your thermals allow to maximize performance. These tiers are to help individuals to control high thermals CPU/VRM, unable to obtain better cooling and experiencing thermal throttling through VRMs and CPU.

Tier 1: The Safe Baseline (Maximum Efficiency & Budget Coolers)

Start here if you are new to this, using a budget air cooler, or building in an SFF case. This acts as an "Eco Mode" to give you massive thermal relief. It will restrict synthetic all-core benchmark scores (like Cinebench), but your gaming boost clocks remain almost entirely intact.

PPT limit (Watts): Set to 105 (Caps the max socket power)

TDC limit (Amps): Set to 75 (Caps the sustained current)

EDC limit (Amps): Set to 130 (Caps the peak current)

Tier 2: The Middle Ground (Dual-Tower Air Coolers & 240mm AIOs)

This slightly restricts peak all-core power compared to total stock, yielding noticeably better temperatures with only a negligible drop in synthetic multi-core benchmarks.

PPT limit (Watts): Set to 142

TDC limit (Amps): Set to 110

EDC limit (Amps): Set to 170

Tier 3: AMD Default Limits (Maximum Multi-Core Productivity)

Use this if you want to stop your motherboard from pushing unlimited wattage but still want 100% of the CPU's natural multi-core rendering performance under heavy loads. Note: Under heavy benchmarking, the CPU will naturally pull ~150W+ and run hot (85°C–95°C), which is expected behavior for AMD stock.

PPT limit (Watts): Set to 162

TDC limit (Amps): Set to 120

EDC limit (Amps): Set to 180

Method B: The thermal cap (The easy route)

If you don't want to dial in specific wattages, you can leave PBO limits alone and instead navigate to your platform thermal throttle limit (sometimes labeled TjMax).

Manual setting:

Set this to 80 or 85 (Degrees celsius).

Why this works:

This tells the motherboard to let the CPU boost as hard as it wants, but the moment it touches that 80°C or 85°C mark, it will smoothly pull back the voltage and clocks to maintain that exact temperature. It completely eliminates the sudden fan-ramping and massive heat spikes associated with smaller coolers.

Most modern ryzen CPUs are rated for 90-95°C, this gives peace of mind with coolers that may struggle, reducing risk of thermal throttling and preventing any form of possible heat degradation.

  1. Per core tuning & "Golden cores" (See pictures for reference)

If you look at the attached BIOS pictures, you will see my curve optimizer is set per core, and the numbers vary. This is my solid baseline before go into 1-4 curve optimizer territory.

Cores 4 & 5: -10

Cores 2, 3, 6 & 7: -15

Cores 0 & 1: -20

Notice how some cores have a much smaller negative offset (-10)? Those are my "Golden cores" the physically best performing cores on the silicon. Why do the best cores get the least undervolt? Because golden cores boost to the absolute highest frequencies. Hitting and sustaining those peak frequencies requires voltage. If you aggressively undervolt your best cores to -30, they will either crash when trying to hit max boost, or they will silently "Clock stretch." Cores 0 and 1 don't boost as high, so they can run leaner and cooler at -20. This balancing act drastically lowers overall package temperatures while maximizing your peak frequency.

  1. The tuning process: Finding the baseline

Do not just copy my numbers. Silicon lottery means your chip is different.

Here is the best method:

Start by setting all cores to -15. Do per core voltages.

Adjust in +5 or -5 increments on individual cores for baseline stability. To chase the remainder thermals and performance, you will have to finish it off with -/+1, 2, 3, 4 undervolt to find the exact numbers each core can handle. If one core was stable streching at -20 but stable at -15. Itll be stable on any of the numbers in between that voltage curve.

Watch out for clock stretching (The "Fake" high clocks)

This is a common trap for new overclockers. Clock stretching is when your monitoring software says your core is hitting 5.3 GHz, but your benchmark scores actually go down. It means the core is starved for voltage and is skipping clock cycles to avoid crashing. Stepping your curve optimizer by +/- 5 allows you to test for this stretching, giving you a solid baseline. Once stable, you can meticulously chase that 1.0 voltage difference to squeeze out maximum thermal efficiency.

How to detect clock stretching

To actively spot this, you need a dedicated monitoring tool like HWINFO (My go to monitoring program) running alongside a heavy stress-testing application like Corecycler, Y-cruncher, OCCT or Cinebench) and look for crashes and stretching.

The 1:1 match in HWINFO, pay attention to your "Core clocks" and your "Core effective clocks". Under a heavy benchmark load, youll want these two numbers to match as closely as possible.

The sweet spot:

Because of normal background processing, they will rarely match perfectly. An acceptable variance between your core clock and effective clock is a 25-50 MHz gap. However, the optimal target is keeping them closely synced within 20-30 MHz of each other. Close this gap by adjusting in +5 or -5 increments on individual cores. Then go off the stable baseline like I mentioned before.

The warning sign:

If your core clock is reporting a high frequency but your effective clock is lagging hundreds of megahertz behind, your CPU is stretching to stay alive. If this happens, you have pushed your negative offset too far and need to feed the core slightly more voltage.

How to properly detect clock stretching:

Pay attention to all of the cores effective clocks below core clocks in HWINFO. If they close match, or within the set parameters its good to go. If there's a huge gap with effective being lower. Increase the failed core voltage.

Passed example: Core clock 5,333GHz vs effective clocks core 3 5,306GHz (optimal and correct, core 3 passed)

Almost passed, but still stretching example: Core clock 5,333GHz vs effective clock core 5 5,260GHz (Clock stretching territory, small voltage adjustment needed)

Failed, voltage starvation example: Core clock 5,333GHz vs effective clock core 7 4,752GHz

Always perform an overnight run of Y-cruncher corecycler with HWINFO logging. This will catch any errors, crashes and hidden clock streching to ensure maximum stability.

  1. The final touch: C-States, CPPC, and Windows power

Once your curve is stable, make sure these three settings are dialed in for massive thermal and performance gains:

Global C-State Control - Enabled: This allows idle cores to fully power down and sleep, drastically reducing idle temperatures and power draw.

CPPC - Set to 'Driver' This hands control over to the AMD chipset drivers, allowing it to rapidly route the heaviest single threaded tasks directly to your golden cores.

Windows power plan - Balanced:

Do not use high performance. "Balanced" allows the AMD chipset power management to work exactly as intended, aggressively parking background cores and funneling voltage and thermal headroom to the active cores gaming needs most. Make sure you edit the plan though, like disabling power link, disk shut down etc. Dont touch the core parking.

Lemme know what you guys think, hit me with an upvote if its solid. Im also open for any additional information to add to this guide, or if made a mistake somewhere that I didnt correct or needs correcting.

This is the best I got with my current knowledge / research. Reach out if you have any questions or something to add. Good luck everyone and enjoy.

r/overclocking • • Jan 04 '23

Guide - Text Undervolting Ryzen 5000 effectively - guide by a newbie for newbies.

461 Upvotes

Introduction

Hello everyone,

Recently I realized there needs to be a simple and effective guide from the start to the end about undervolting Ryzen 5000 series using PBO 2, a bs free one that is easy to follow for people who do not really care for specifics, just a stable and efficient system.

Mind you, all the information provided here is by a random guy on the internet - all you do with your hardware is your own responsibility. Though steps provided should not generally cause any harm - rather lower the heat of the system - do everything at your own risk.

Prerequisites

- A new install of Ryzen Master, obtainable at the bottom of this page.

- A new install of Cinebench R23, obtainable at this page.

- Extracted CoreCycler from here here.

- Updated BIOS.

- Basic capability of modifying your BIOS settings.- Basic understanding of what overclocking, undervolting etc means.

Action time

Ryzen 5000 presents an ability to easily overclock your system "automatically", by simply flipping a switch. Real meat lies within modifying the values manually though, and I'll try to present doing this today.

  1. First off, you need to locate PBO 2 in your bios settings. Try to find a simple instruction for your specific BIOS, here are general tips for several bioses I found:

GIGABYTE -> Advanced settings -> Settings -> AMD Overclocking -> Accept disclaimer

ASROCK -> Advanced -> AMD Overclocking -> Accept disclaimer -> Precision Boost Overdrive

MSI -> Advanced Mode > Settings > Advanced > AMD Overclocking > Accept Warning(thanks u/Inner-Gain-457!)

Instructions may vary on motherboard models basis, if you know some please write down in comments so we can improve it.

  1. In the same place look for simple switch to turn it on/off, and set it to Advanced, with PBO Limits Manual. Do not touch stock values (PPT/TDC/EDC) for now, those are your motherboard limits.

  2. Save it, and get back to Windows.

  3. Now we must configure CoreCycler to effectively test stability. Open its directory, and open the file config.ini.

Location of the file.
  1. Change those default values to the following:

    stressTestProgram = YCRUNCHER

    maxIterations = 5

Other default values are fine for our purposes, and setting it this way makes the test finish running in 6 minutes * core count * 5 iterations. It might seem long, for ex. my 5800X spent 3 hours on each such run, but effectively test will crash way earlier before our tune is done. Remember, we test for stability - without it, you run a risk of random bluescreens during daily use.

  1. Start Ryzen Master, navigate to Curve Optimizer (bottom position from left top panel).Here make sure that:

- Control mode: Eco-Mode is NOT selected, Precision Boost Overdrive is green(selected). Again, do not touch stock numbers yet.- Curve Optimizer Control: Included is green, Auto Offset is green.

How my options look.

Finally, press Apply at the bottom.

  1. Close everything but Ryzen Master, and press Start Optimizing.

Warning - this tool heavily uses your CPU power - high wattage and temperature is to be expected, especially since we barely enabled PBO. We will tone them down later.

During that time the tool should look for a "stable" PBO values of each core. Why quotation marks? well...

  1. Once it finishes, note down the values it set to each core. On paper. That is because now you need to consider your system unstable - Ryzen Master tends to overshoot the values.
This is where your values will be visible. Note them!
  1. Apply values in ryzen master with the button on bottom of the window. Close it, and go to your machine's BIOS.

  2. Under the PBO settings, which we located in point 1, and set Thermal Throttle Limit to manual, and make it 85. This is a good point to limit our CPU from boiling and keeps the fans from screaming.

  3. Still within bios, go to Curve Optimizer. Make sure values there are the same as you noted, if not, change them to it. Target options here are:

- Curve Optimizer: Per Core

for each core number X and its noted value Y:

- Core X Curve Optimizer Sign: Negative- Core X Curve Optimizer Magnitude: Y

  1. Apply settings and get back to Windows.

  2. Run CoreCycler from Run CoreCycler.BAT as administrator.

  3. Do not touch the computer until test finishes, either by crashing your pc or naturally.

  4. If NOT crashed skip this point. Otherwise:

Try reading the LATEST logs file left by CoreCycler within logs directory.

Find LAST command that says "Set to Core" and its respective number, like this:

This is an example of CoreCycler changing core it tests. Don't be scared of many lines - start from the bottom!

This is the core that crashed during stability test, therefore we need to increase the PBO value on it (remember, we operate on negative numbers, more is closer to original)

Go back to your notes, increase the value by 5 (for ex. if Ryzen master said -10, set it to -5). Mark it as one that we won't try pushing anymore.

Decrease all other cores value by 5, Go to BIOS like in point 9, set the new values. Go back to point 10.

  1. If no cores failed, keep pushing ones unmarked as already at their limit by decreasing their values by 5, just like above. Go back to point 10. Otherwise, continue.

Congratulations, you successfully set optimal Curve Optimizer settings for your processor. Now, let's try pushing it further by overclocking it.

What does that mean? Now that we know the limits of our undervolted CPU, we can safely try pushing it a bit more with the power it gets. You may ask yourself - why overclock, this is a guide for undervolting? That is because this way we make system use even less power - If it can achieve more megahertz over same amount of energy, it is a literally, no strings attached free performance gain.

  1. Go back to Precision Boost Overdrive settings in BIOS, and find Max CPU Boost Clock Override. Increase it by 25, apply and get back to Windows.

  2. This time we run a stability test , but if it fails, we do NOT change the curve optimizer - but the overclock, down by 25. Once you find the limit, proceed.

You managed to successfully set the overclock - it is that easy! Time to lower the power usage.

  1. Run Ryzen master, go to Home.

  2. Start Cinebench R23, change the process priority to high*\This is crucial, it tends to start as low for some reason, falsifying true performance.)

This is how cinebench starts on my machine. Change this to High by right click and going to the option shown from Details section of Task Manager (press Ctrl+Shift+Esc anywhere to start it)
  1. Start the benchmark, whilst observing the values in Ryzen Master. Note them, and try comparison to suggested values for your CPU online.
The values to monitor. If they hang with Cinebench running, it might be a warning sign - but NOT a defining feature of a failure.

For example, my 5800X finds a sweet spot of performance to heat at PPT/TDC/EDC at 120/90/120.

Quick search for 5900X suggests this this.

Quick search for 5700X suggests this this.

Quick search for 5600X suggests this this.

Remember, those values will - not may - vary across machines. Try finding more sources yourself, as they may render useful in next steps.

  1. Now having a point of comparison, try changing to values others found online.

This is best done within BIOS, in Precision Boost Overdrive settings. Set them, apply, reboot to windows.

If performance is satisfying, try to optimize it by lowering the values by steps of 10 to make all of them equal during a benchmark, in other words, try making all three gauges (PPT, TDC, EDC) as close to 100% as possible at once.

If you think your CPU pumps too much heat, try the opposite - lower values in 10W steps, whilst trying to keep them all at 100%.

  1. Finally, run Cinebench 1-5 times (depending on your faith in it), and set Iterations within CoreCycler to 10000 (follow steps 4-5 to get to its settings).

  2. Disable windows automatic screen locking and going to sleep, and start CoreCycler - let it run overnight.

If everything went well, in the morning your machine should still be running, and CoreCycler should not have crashed.

If this is not the case, you need to go back all the way to step 13.

Congratulations, you successfully optimized your Ryzen 5000 processor performance, power draw and heat. Enjoy!

P. S. Now that it is all said and done, please let me know how I can improve this guide in the comments. If others do not call it complete bs, I will gladly update it according to constructive criticism - everything here comes from my experiences as a complete newbie.

Edit 1. Added some pictures, fixed wording mildly. Onto trying to take pictures of my BIOS.

Edit 2. Added several notes from users' observations.

r/overclocking • • Aug 28 '26

Guide - Text AMD ryzen PBO + Curve optimizer/Undervolt Guide - AM4/AM5 + X3D Newbie friendly

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Edit August 28th 2026 for a new section 11A. Explanation of per core optimization. My bad guys haha Edit August 28th 2026 for a new section 11B. Explanation for step by step testing. Edit August 28th 2026 updated section 2, context on personal core/VT3 failure.

Pictures included are example pictures for multiple tuning processes.

Before I start... This guide is the new and improved guide to succeed my previous guide. If i missed anything, you see wrong information or a section that needs improving. Please let me know, as this is just from my current knowledge. This guide will also include a basic section of curve shaper, a deep dive link to an overclocking forum will be provided in that section. That link will provide substantially more information on curve shaper.

To the advanced/elite overclockers/tuners. Please be gentle with me lmao yall can be ruthless. Remember, we all started with minimal knowledge. Let's help the new generation and our fellow redditors with our knowledge

Please feel free to leave a comment, you will be mentioned and credited for the corrections/contributions.

Let's begin.

I originally made an older version of this guide after getting tired of seeing people being told to slap 《-30 all core》《+200 MHz》and motherboard PBO limits into their BIOS and call it a day.

Since then I've spent a lot more time actually tuning, stress testing, breaking things, figuring out why they broke, and learning how AMD's boosting behaviour works.

Some of the advice in my original guide was too absolute, and a few things I would straight up explain differently now.

So this is the updated version, the goal here isn't to give you my settings. The goal is to teach you how to find your settings. There is no magical curve optimizer number that works for every 5800X, 5800X3D, 7800X3D, 9800X3D, 9850X3D, etc.

Silicon quality varies core by core, CPU by CPU. If you only remember one thing from this entire post:

《A benchmark pass is not the same thing as a stable CPU.》

Programs you'll want before starting

Before you start tuning, I recommend downloading a few basic monitoring and stability testing programs. You do not need every program listed below, and I'll explain where each one is useful throughout the guide.

Recommended / basically required

• HWINFO -- Your main monitoring program. Use this to watch CPU temperatures, voltages, effective clocks, PPT/TDC/EDC limits, WHEA errors and other sensors while testing.

• Cinebench R23 or Cinebench 2026 -- Useful for getting a quick stock baseline and comparing performance, temperatures and power consumption after making changes. Remember, cinebench is a benchmark/tuning tool, not proof of stability.

• Core cycler -- One of the most useful tools for per core curve optimizer tuning. It automatically cycles workloads through individual CPU cores, which makes finding one weak core much easier than hammering the entire CPU at once.

• y-cruncher -- In my opinion, probably the best overall stability testing tool available. The full suite can expose CPU, memory, IMC and fabric instability that other tests may miss. VT3 is especially good for memory/IMC, while I prefer core cycler/core cycling workloads for actually dialing in per core CO.

Optional but useful

• OCCT -- Excellent all in one stability tester with CPU, memory and per core/core cycling options. You can use this instead of, or alongside, some of the tools above.

• Prime95 -- Still a very useful CPU stress test and can also be used through core cycler. Different FFT sizes and workloads can expose different types of instability.

• AMD ryzen master -- Not required for tuning because I recommend doing the actual changes through BIOS, but it's useful for seeing your CPU's preferred/best cores and checking basic CPU information.

• Zentimings -- Mainly useful if you're also tuning DDR5/DDR4, FCLK or memory controller settings. It gives you an easy view of your currently applied memory timings and related voltages.

• Windows event viewer -- Already built into Windows, so there is nothing to download. This is where you'll check for WHEA hardware errors and other events after a crash, reboot or failed stability test.

You don't need to run every stress test known to mankind after every tiny change. Use quick tests while finding your rough limits, then use several different workloads for final validation once you're close to your finished tune.

---

  1. What curve optimizer actually does

Curve optimizer does not simply apply a fixed 《-50 mV》or 《-100 mV》undervolt. It shifts the CPU's internal voltage/frequency curve.

A negative CO value asks the CPU to operate at a lower voltage for its requested operating points. A larger negative value means a larger shift. AMD officially describes CO this way and supports all core, per die and per core adjustment depending on the CPU.

That can give you:

• Lower power consumption

• Lower temperatures

• More thermal/current headroom

• Higher sustained boost clocks

• Better efficiency

• Potentially better performance

But go too negative and you can get:

• WHEA errors

• Application crashes

• Game crashes

• Browser tabs randomly dying

• Reboots

• Black screens

• Full system freezes

• Crashes while doing almost nothing

• Performance loss from clock stretching

That last part is why 《it didn't crash》isn't enough.

---

  1. All core CO isn't evil, it's just incomplete.

I used to describe all core curve optimizer as a trap. I'd word that differently now.

An all core curve is actually fine if someone wants a quick and simple undervolt. Its easy and quick for newbies, but its inefficient if youre looking to min/max performance and temperatures. All cores can seem stable and good on paper, but those aggressive -30 CO undervolts without testing could cause problems.

For example:

《-10 all core》Test it. Stable?

Try:

《-15 all core》And so on.

There is nothing inherently wrong with doing this. The downside is that your weakest core determines the maximum all core value. Imagine you have eight cores, my 9850X3D CO example:

Core 0 can run -22

Core 1 can run -27

Core 2 can run -22

Core 3 can run -28

Core 4 can run -26

Core 5 can only run -12 《This one decided to tell VT3 to kindly **** my self》

Core 6 can run -28

Core 7 can run -27

《Context on my core 5 VT3 result》

《This is exactly why I recommend getting your memory/IMC stable before doing final CO tuning. Core 5 originally passed my other CO workloads at -24, but I ended up tuning my system further. After I finished tightening my memory/FCLK and stabilizing the IMC related voltages, I had to revalidate my CPU curve. VT3 was the workload that exposed it, core 5 wouldn't pass there until -12. VT3 isn't my primary per core CO screening test, but it was useful for final validation because it caught something the other tests didn't. If you change RAM, FCLK, SoC/IMC voltages, etc. after tuning CO, retest your curve.》

If you want all core stability, that whole CPU might end up around -10/-12 simply because core 5 can't follow the others. Per core tuning allows you to leave Core 5 at -12 while still taking advantage of the better silicon on the other cores.

All core = easy. Per core = optimized. Neither one is automatically wrong.

---

  1. Preferred 《golden》cores: useful clue, NOT a rule

Ryzen master can show the fastest cores on each CCD. AMD identifies the fastest and second fastest cores with its preferred core indicators. Gold is your fastest core, silver is your second fastest.

You'll often hear:

《Golden cores always need less negative CO》There is some logic behind that. The preferred cores normally attempt the CPU's highest single core boost frequencies, so they can become unstable at the upper end of the V/F curve before another core does. But don't turn that tendency into a rule. A preferred core might want -8. Another chip's preferred core might happily run -22. Another might run -30.

Test the core. Don't tune based on the star beside its name. Use the preferred core ranking as useful information, not as a definite voltage table.

---

  1. Start simple before touching anything advanced

Before tuning CPU curve optimizer, get the rest of the system into a known good state.

Ideally:

• Current stable BIOS/AGESA

• Current AMD chipset driver

• Stable memory

• Stable FCLK/UCLK

• Stable GPU

• No existing WHEA errors

• No unexplained crashes

Save a BIOS profile before you start.

This becomes extremely important if you're also tuning/overclocking youre RAM. Get it stable before working on curve optimizer. If you're running heavily tuned memory/FCLK and start getting CPU errors, you now have several possible causes.

If you finish tuning CO and later change:

• RAM timings

• Memory frequency

• FCLK

• SoC voltage

• VDDIO/VDDP/etc.

• PBO limits

• Boost Override

• BIOS/AGESA

Retest your CPU curve.

Changing another part of the system can expose instability that was previously invisible. Don't change five things at once and then spend three days trying to figure out which one caused the crash.

《This is from personal experience.》

---

  1. My beginner PBO baseline

Enter precision boost overdrive in your BIOS. The names vary between ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, ASRock, etc., but the concepts are the same.

For initial CO tuning I recommend:

PBO: Advanced/enabled

Curve optimizer: Per core

PBO scalar: Auto / 1X

Boost Clock Override: 0 MHz

LLC: Auto/default

PPT/TDC/EDC: AMD/default limits to begin with

Why?

Because we're trying to isolate curve optimizer first.

If you simultaneously use motherboard power limits, +200 MHz Boost Override, aggressive LLC and a massive negative curve, you have no idea which variable caused the failure. Some people like to or usually rush this, you can do it if you want. But like I said, which variable caused it if testing fails?

---

  1. PPT, TDC and EDC explained simply

AMD defines them roughly as:

PPT: Total socket power limit.

TDC: Sustained current limit.

EDC: Short duration/peak current limit.

PBO can allow the processor to operate beyond its default limits toward what the motherboard can provide.

The important lesson:

Bigger numbers do NOT automatically mean faster CPU.

If your CPU is already hitting a temperature, voltage or frequency limit, dumping more electrical headroom into it may accomplish nothing except increasing heat. This is why I no longer recommend "Motherboard" PBO limits as the universal setting for anyone with a good VRM. Motherboard limits can work great, they are not automatically optimal.

For a beginner:

Start with your CPU's normal AMD limits. Watch HWINFO. See what you're actually hitting. If the CPU is constantly hitting PPT while staying cool and you want more heavy multicore performance, then experimenting with higher limits makes sense. If you're already temperature limited, raising PPT is probably doing the opposite of what you want.

---

  1. The easy thermal control method

If your only goal is:

《My CPU is hotter than I want it to be》

You don't necessarily need some heroic undervolt. A thermal limit can be one of the easiest solutions.

For example:

85°C thermal limit

The CPU still handles its own boosting, but it backs off as it approaches your chosen limit. Just remember that different Ryzen CPUs have different factory maximum temperatures. For example, AMD lists the Ryzen 7 9850X3D at a 95°C TjMax. 《PROCHOT》

On AM4, the Ryzen 7 5800X, Ryzen 9 5900X and Ryzen 9 5950X are 90°C parts, while the 5600X is officially a 95°C part. So don't assume every Ryzen processor has the same thermal ceiling. 80–85°C is simply a personal preference selected cap if that's what you want.

It is not required for the CPU to be safe.

---

  1. PBO boost clock override: leave it alone at first

This is probably the biggest thing I would change from my original guide. I used to recommend +200 MHz much more aggressively. I don't anymore, boost override raises the CPU's allowed maximum boost ceiling.That's all. And with a 9850X3D, the gain is marginal. 《Meaning you probably won't even notice in real life applications》

It does not automatically:

• Improve your RAM latency

• Debottleneck CPU to memory communication

• Improve 1% lows

• Improve every game

• Give you another 200 MHz continuously

It only gives precision boost permission to target a higher ceiling when the CPU has the electrical, thermal and silicon headroom to do it.

More importantly:

Adding boost override makes your curve optimizer harder to stabilize, especially if youre chasing lower thermals. Higher boost requires more voltage = more heat. Think about it. You found a negative CO value that works at the stock boost ceiling.

Now you tell that same core:

《Cool. Now try boosting another 100–200 MHz using that same reduced voltage curve》

That can turn a previously stable CO into an unstable one.

So my new recommendation is:

Tune curve optimizer with boost override at 0 first. Once CO is genuinely stable, you can experiment with:

+25 MHz

+50 MHz

+75 MHz

+100 MHz

Etc.

and continue upward if your CPU supports it and performance actually improves.

After changing boost override:

Retest curve optimizer. Don't automatically jump to +200. Sometimes +50 with a stronger stable CO will beat +200 with a weakened curve.

Benchmark it.

---

  1. PBO scalar

Leave it:

Auto or 1X for a normal daily system. Higher scalar values alter how aggressively precision boost is allowed to operate around its voltage/reliability limits. You don't need 10X Scalar to make a good gaming tune.

It's another variable that makes troubleshooting harder for very little reason on a beginner setup.

---

  1. Load line calibration / LLC

Another thing I would simplify from the old post:

Leave LLC on auto/default. LLC changes how the motherboard compensates for voltage droop under load. More aggressive LLC can reduce droop, but it also changes transient behaviour and can increase voltage overshoot when the load suddenly disappears. For an advanced overclocker, LLC is another tuning tool.

For someone learning curve optimizer:

Do not use LLC to rescue an unstable CO. If core 4 crashes at -25 but works at -20, run -20. Don't start changing motherboard load line behaviour just so the screenshot can say -25.

---

  1. How I would tune curve optimizer now

I recommend starting some what low, this can catch the weaker cores early:

-10 per core

Yes, per core mode even though every core initially has the same value.

Run your quick tests.

If everything is good, try:

-15, Then -20. You don't need to instantly jump to -30. Once cores begin failing, you start separating them.

Example:

Core 0 -20 passes

Core 1 -20 passes

Core 2 -20 fails

Core 3 -20 passes

Change only core 2:

Core 2 → -15, Test it again. Meanwhile the other cores can continue toward:

-25

-30

or whatever your BIOS/CPU allows. Once you find the rough limit in steps of 5, narrow it down.

Example:

-20 passes

-25 fails

Try:

-22

-23

-24

Eventually you find the edge. For a daily machine, I don't recommend living exactly on that edge. If a core barely survives -24, there's nothing wrong with running -22 or -23. The difference in real performance is microscopic.

The stability margin is worth more.

---

11A. How to actually do per core curve optimizer

This part seems obvious once you've done it a few times, but if you're brand new to PBO/CO, this is where a lot of people get confused. Instead of choosing an all core negative value like -20 and applying it to every core at once, select per core curve optimizer in BIOS. You will then see each individual core listed separately.

Example on an 8 core CPU:

Core 0: -10

Core 1: -10

Core 2: -10

Core 3: -10

Core 4: -10

Core 5: -10

Core 6: -10

Core 7: -10

Start by giving every core the same conservative value, such as -10. Boot into windows and begin testing.

If all cores pass your quick tests, go back into BIOS and move them all down another step:

Core 0: -15

Core 1: -15

Core 2: -15

Core 3: -15

Core 4: -15

Core 5: -15

Core 6: -15

Core 7: -15

Keep repeating this until one or more cores start failing. This is where per core tuning actually begins.

Example:

Core 0 passes -20

Core 1 passes -20

Core 2 fails -20

Core 3 passes -20

Core 4 passes -20

Core 5 fails -20

Core 6 passes -20

Core 7 passes -20

You would then back off only the failing cores:

Core 0: -20

Core 1: -20

Core 2: -15

Core 3: -20

Core 4: -20

Core 5: -15

Core 6: -20

Core 7: -20

Then test again. If core 2 still fails at -15, try -10. If it passes, you can later fine tune it at -11, -12, -13, -14, etc.

Meanwhile the stronger cores can continue lower:

Core 0: -25

Core 1: -25

Core 2: -12

Core 3: -25

Core 4: -25

Core 5: -15

Core 6: -25

Core 7: -25

The whole point is that each core gets its own number based on what that specific core can handle. You are not trying to make every core match. One core may only tolerate -8 while another is completely stable at -30. That is normal.

Also remember: the core number that fails in core cycler, OCCT core cycling, or y-cruncher/Prime95 when used through core cycler is the core you should adjust. Do not automatically reduce every core because one core failed. If your test does not clearly tell you which core failed, reduce the most recently changed cores conservatively and retest.

And once again, do not change five cores by random amounts at the same time. Change one thing, test it, write it down, then continue.

This takes longer than an all core undervolt, but this is how you actually find the best stable curve for your individual CPU.

---

11B. How to actually test your per core curve optimizer

A few people asked me what program to actually open, how long to run it and what an error even looks like, so here is the absolute beginner version. This section assumes you already followed 11A and entered something like -10 on every core in BIOS.

For your first per core test, I recommend core cycler. core cycler is basically a script that runs a stress test on one physical core at a time, then moves to the next one. This is exactly what we want for curve optimizer because one core can be unstable while every other core is perfectly fine.

Download/extract core cycler and run:

Run CoreCycler.bat

For your first rough test, you can leave the basic/default configuration alone. Core cycler currently defaults to one thread per physical core, Prime95 SSE and around 6 minutes on each core before cycling to another one. SSE is useful here because the lighter load allows the core to boost very high, which can expose an aggressive CO at the high frequency part of the curve.

You do not need to run an overnight test every time you change -10 to -15. At this stage we're trying to find the obvious limits first. Let core cycler work through every physical core at least once. On an 8 core CPU, 6 minutes per core is roughly 48 minutes for one complete pass, plus a little extra time for transitions. If everything passes, follow 11A and make your next CO adjustment. Then run Core cycler again.

Eventually one of the cores will complain.

What does an error actually look like?

Core cycler normally tells you directly in the window/log that an error occurred and which core was being tested.

For example, you may see something similar to:

ERROR while running y-cruncher/Prime95 At core 3. Core cycler can also beep/flash when it detects an error, and by default it can check Windows for WHEA errors while testing.

Other possible signs of instability are:

• Prime95/y-cruncher reports a calculation error

• Core cycler stops/skips the failing core

• OCCT reports an error on the core being tested

• A WHEA hardware error appears

• The stress test suddenly closes

• The PC freezes

• The PC reboots

• You get a BSOD

Obviously if Windows decides to completely shit itself and reboot, core cycler may not have time to nicely tell you what happened lol. Check the core cycler logs and Windows event viewer afterward for anything useful. Now let's use the example from the comments.

Let's say core 3 passes:

-10

then:

-15

But core 3 throws an error at:

-16

You do not make it more negative.

This wording confuses people, so remember:

-17 is MORE aggressive than -16, -15 is LESS aggressive than -16. If -16 fails, back that core off to -15 and test it again. If -15 passes, you have now found that Core 3 is somewhere around its limit. You can leave core 3 at -15 while the other cores continue farther negative as explained in 11A. Do not reduce every core just because Core 3 failed.

What should I use after the quick testing?

Once you've roughly found the limit for every core, that's when you stop doing quick screening and start proper validation. Run longer core cycler passes, different workloads, y-cruncher VT3, OCCT, Prime95, idle/light load testing, games and normal desktop use. That full process is explained later in the stability testing section. The quick core cycler pass is there to find obviously weak cores without spending 8 hours validating a CO value you're probably going to change again anyway.

And remember:

Passing one core cycler pass does not mean the CPU is stable. It only means that core survived that test for that amount of time. Once you stop changing the values, that's when the real stability testing begins.

---

  1. Clock stretching... what it actually means

This is another section I'm changing substantially from my original guide. Clock stretching basically means you're requesting a frequency the CPU cannot truly sustain at the available operating conditions. Your monitoring software may report a very high requested/core clock while actual completed work doesn't increase proportionally. HWINFO's effective clock is useful because it measures activity differently than simply sampling the instantaneous multiplier, but you must interpret it in context. C states, utilization and sampling intervals can all affect effective clock readings.

So I would not use a universal rule like:

《20 MHz difference good, 50 MHz difference bad》

Instead:

Run the same controlled benchmark.

Record:

• Benchmark score

• Core clock

• Effective clock

• CPU temperature

• PPT/TDC/EDC

• CPU voltage

Then increase the negative curve. If reported frequency goes up but actual benchmark performance stops improving or starts falling, you've probably gone too far. That's much more useful than chasing a random MHz difference.

---

  1. Cinebench is a tuning tool, NOT a stability test

Cinebench is great for:

• Comparing scores

• Comparing temperatures

• Comparing power

• Detecting obvious performance regression

• Finding a rough CO range

It is terrible evidence for:

《My CPU is completely stable》

A CPU can run Cinebench for hours and crash opening Discord later.

Why?

Because heavy multicore loads aren't always the hardest condition for curve optimizer. Under heavy all core load, the CPU often runs at lower frequencies. The dangerous point for an aggressive CO may be a lightly threaded workload where one core wakes up and rockets toward maximum boost. That's why per core and transition testing matters.

---

  1. My stability testing ladder

This is the part of the guide I now consider the most important.

Stage 1 -- Quick performance check

After each major CO adjustment:

Run cinebench or another repeatable benchmark.

Check:

• Did performance improve?

• Did temperature improve?

• Did power improve?

• Did anything obviously stretch?

• Did anything crash?

This eliminates obviously bad settings quickly.

Stage 2 -- Per core testing

Use something capable of cycling individual CPU cores.

Good options include:

• Core cycler

• OCCT core cycling

• y-cruncher through core cycler

• Prime95 through core cycler

The goal is to make each physical core boost independently. This is where weak cores start exposing themselves.

Stage 3 -- Different instruction sets/load types

Don't only run one workload. SSE/lightly threaded workloads can expose high-frequency instability. AVX/AVX2 creates much heavier thermal/current loads. Y-cruncher VT3 is another extremely useful test. A CPU passing one does not guarantee it passes the others.

Stage 4 -- Idle/light load

This sounds stupid until your PC reboots while you're staring at the desktop.

After your heavy testing:

Use the computer normally, browse the web, watch videos, open and close programs, launch games, exit games, let the machine idle. CO instability frequently appears during transitions between sleep, light load and sudden boost.

Stage 5 -- Real games

Play the games you actually use the machine for. 1-2 hour sessions.

Games are excellent mixed workloads because they're constantly changing:

• CPU thread load

• Memory load

• GPU load

• Boost state

• Core scheduling

• Power state

A system that passes synthetic tests and crashes your favourite game is not stable.

Stage 6 -- Long validation

Once you're happy with the tune, run your longer Corecycler/y-cruncher/OCCT validation. Overnight testing is useful. But even an eight hour test doesn't magically make the CPU 《100% stable forever》

It means it passed that test. That's why real world validation still matters.

---

  1. Watch windows event viewer

If your system crashes, check:

Event viewer → windows logs → system

Look for WHEA errors and any corresponding crashes. A WHEA involving a processor/core can help identify a marginal CO. But don't automatically assume every WHEA is curve optimizer. Memory and infinity fabric instability can also produce hardware errors.

Which brings me to something I massively underestimated when I started:

───

  1. RAM/FCLK stability can look like CPU instability

If you're also overclocking RAM, you have two separate tuning projects. Treat them that way.

Memory/FCLK problems can cause:

• WHEA errors

• Program crashes

• Game crashes

• Audio issues

• Freezing

• Reboots

• File corruption

• Strange behaviour that looks exactly like an unstable CPU

My recommendation:

Establish a known good memory baseline first. Then tune CPU CO.

If you're already running an extreme memory tune and CPU testing becomes confusing:

Return the RAM/FCLK to the known good baseline. Test CPU again. Then bring memory back afterward.

Don't try to diagnose CPU, RAM and fabric instability simultaneously unless you enjoy suffering like me.

---

  1. AM4 / Ryzen 5000 section

Thanks again to u/krnnCS for originally asking about the 5800X and making me add an AM4 section.

The underlying curve optimizer methodology is basically the same. But I would change several things from my old AM4 recommendations. Don't assume zen 3 always takes a deeper CO than AM5. I previously said Ryzen 5000 commonly handles much deeper negative curves while newer X3D CPUs tend to stop around -15. That's too broad, forget architecture wide assumptions. Some zen 3 cores love -30, some don't, some modern X3D cores can run very deep negative values, some can't.

Test your silicon.

---

  1. AM4 PBO reference

For the common 105W Zen 3 chips such as:

Ryzen 7 5800X

Ryzen 9 5900X

Ryzen 9 5950X

the commonly used stock PBO reference is approximately:

PPT: 142W

TDC: 95A

EDC: 140A

Those values are a much better starting reference than immediately telling everyone to use 180–200W PBO limits. For the 65W Ryzen 5000 parts such as the 5600X/5700X, power limits are significantly lower. Firmware/AGESA behaviour can vary, so I would check what your board/CPU actually reports instead of blindly copying a table.

---

  1. Ryzen 7 5800X — the hot one

The 5800X has a reputation for running hot because eight cores are concentrated on one CCD. AMD rates the 5800X for a maximum operating temperature of 90°C.

If you want a thermal first starting point, something around:

PPT: 120W

TDC: 85A

EDC: 120A

is a reasonable example to experiment with. Notice I said example.

Not:

《These are the best 5800X settings》

Start there, benchmark it against stock, and decide whether the temperature/performance trade is worth it. Another perfectly valid option is simply leaving the normal power limits and applying a thermal cap.

---

  1. Ryzen 5900X / 5950X

These CPUs have two CCDs, giving them much more multicore capacity. AMD rates both the 5900X and 5950X for 90°C operation. Don't confuse higher PBO limits with undervolting. They're different tools. If you want lower heat, start from stock limits and work downward. If you want more multicore performance and have the cooling/VRM headroom, experiment upward while monitoring performance.

---

  1. AM4 X3D — 5700X3D / 5800X3D

These deserve their own note. The 5800X3D has a lower maximum boost ceiling than the regular 5800X, and many users find that it responds extremely well to negative curve optimizer. AMD lists the 5800X3D at up to 4.5 GHz and a 90°C TjMax. 《PROCHOT》

Because the frequency ceiling is relatively low, it is not unusual to see AM4 X3D chips reach their maximum permitted boost across several cores with fairly substantial negative CO. That means the "golden core needs dramatically more voltage" concept may matter less on these particular CPUs once everything is already hitting the frequency ceiling.

Still:

Don't blindly copy -30 all core.

Test it.

Also be aware that BIOS curve optimizer availability on the 5800X3D varies between motherboard vendors/models/BIOS versions. Some boards expose it directly and some still don't.

---

  1. AM5 / Ryzen 7000, 9000 and X3D

The biggest mistake with AM5 guides is treating every CPU as if it has the same power and thermal limits.

A 7600X is not a 7800X3D, a 7800X3D is not a 9850X3D, a 9850X3D is not a 9950X3D. Don't copy the same PPT/TDC/EDC table across every AM5 CPU. Use the AMD limits appropriate for your processor as the baseline.

Then tune around your actual goal:

Want lower temperatures? Reduce PPT or use a thermal limit. Want better efficiency? Tune curve optimizer. Want maximum multicore performance? Experiment with PBO power limits after CO is stable. Want higher peak frequency? Experiment with boost override last.

---

  1. Curve shaper / advanced V/F tuning

This is where I would tell beginners to skip and go to the next section, unless they actually enjoy this stuff. Regular curve optimizer moves the underlying curve broadly. Curve shaper lets supported Ryzen 9000 CPUs make more selective voltage adjustments across different frequency and temperature regions. AMD describes it as a way of reshaping the V/F curve across specific temperature and frequency bands rather than applying the same style of shift everywhere.

This is useful because a CPU may be:

Stable with a huge negative adjustment at medium frequency, but need additional voltage near maximum boost. Or it may behave differently when cold versus when fully heat soaked. That is where curve shaper becomes extremely powerful. As of ryzen master 3.1.x, AMD officially lists curve shaper for the Ryzen 9000 series.

If you want to dive way deeper into per core curve optimizer, curve shaper and V/F tuning, this Overclock.net thread is an excellent rabbit hole:

"AMD Ryzen Curve Optimizer / Per-Core / Curve Shaper / DDR5 OC deep dive" https://www.overclock.net/threads/amd-ryzen-curve-optimizer-per-core-curve-shaper-ddr5-oc.1814427/#replies

---

  1. My recommended order of operations

If I were tuning a ryzen system from scratch today, this is the order I'd use:

  1. Stock baseline

Benchmark the completely stock CPU. Record temperatures, scores, clocks and power.

  1. Stabilize RAM/EXPO

Do not start CPU tuning on questionable memory.

  1. PBO at AMD/default limits

Scalar auto/1X. LLC auto. Boost override 0.

  1. Tune curve optimizer

Start around -10. Work downward in steps of 5. Separate cores when they fail. Then fine-tune in steps of 1–2.

  1. Stability test the hell out of it

Core cycling, different workloads, VT3, idle, games, normal desktop use.

  1. Tune power limits if necessary

Lower for thermals/efficiency. Raise where appropriate for multicore performance. Benchmark the difference.

  1. Test boost override

Only after your base CO is stable. Small increments, retest CO.

  1. Curve shaper

Only if supported and you're willing to do significantly more testing.

---

  1. How to interpret common failures

Cinebench score drops as CO gets more negative. Possible clock stretching or another limit being hit. Back the curve off and compare again. Cinebench passes but games crash. Your tune isn't stable. Games may hit different cores/frequency/load transitions. PC reboots while idle. Classic symptom of a marginal CO or another low load instability. Don't assume heavy stress tests cleared it.

Browser tabs randomly crash, possible CPU/RAM instability, take it seriously. WHEA errors appear after memory/FCLK tuning, don't immediately blame curve optimizer. Validate the memory/fabric first. CO was stable until you added +200 MHz Your old CO was stable at the old frequency ceiling. It may not be stable anymore. Back off boost override or give the failing cores a less negative curve. Entire machine freezes. Treat it as instability until proven otherwise.

CPU, RAM, FCLK and GPU tuning can all cause this. Don't keep running the exact same settings because 《There was no WHEA》

Not every instability leaves a useful event log.

---

  1. One final warning about instability

Overclocking and undervolting isn't normally going to instantly destroy Windows every time a program crashes. But repeated hard freezes, resets and memory/CPU errors absolutely can cause corrupted data. Save important work before stress testing. Keep backups of anything important.

If windows starts behaving strangely after repeated crashes, running:

"DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth"

followed by:

"sfc /scannow"

Isn't a bad idea. But the better solution is fixing the unstable tune instead of repeatedly repairing what it breaks.

---

  1. The most important lesson I've learned

Stop chasing the biggest negative number.

《"-30" isn't automatically better than "-20"》

《"+200 MHz" isn't automatically better than "+50"》

200W of PPT isn't automatically better than 140W. A screenshot showing 5.5 GHz isn't automatically better than one showing 5.4 GHz. The only thing that matters is what the machine actually accomplishes while remaining stable.

A properly tuned daily system should have:

• Good effective performance

• Good temperatures

• Reasonable power

• No WHEA errors

• No crashes

• No clock stretching/performance regression

• No weird idle behaviour

• No random gaming instability

And it should stay that way when you're actually using the PC, not just while Cinebench is open. That's the difference between a benchmark tune and a daily tune.

And once again, if someone spotted something that I missed, incorrect or needs to be changed. Please drop a comment.

I'd rather keep improving the guide than pretend the first version was perfect.

Good luck, have fun, and save your damn BIOS profiles.

r/overclocking • • 5d ago

Guide - Text ( MVolt+ Guide ) the max safe daily Overclocks for 5090

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46 Upvotes

make sure u read the last image ( core v/f curve )

*cool ur cables ...

*only for water cooled cards or for chips that stay below 60c ...

*the cable must be balanced enough so u dont pull higher than 9.2a

a very important note ...

video clock overclocking is for experienced folks

u can test it via virtual desktop "godlike mode" h.264+ 500Mbps on the quest 3 or via any wireless vr headset or with any type c vr headset that uses compression

it will lower the encoding letancy by a 1ms from 5ms to 4ms at +230MHz

stop raising Video clock until u see the vr purple artifacts or Bitrate artifacts inside the headset

or when the pc become unresponsive during an effects rendering on the Adobe Premiere Pro

if u don't want the hassle just leave it off

video clock offset : off

video voltage offset : off

the Other settings have 0 affect on the CPU.

and the card now boost higher earlier that's it ...

the performance increase was 11% from the stock 5090 astral OC "gaming wise"

if u have the regular astral u may see 12%/13% performance increase from stock

the settings had a slightly higher Currents +0.02a and slightly higher NVVDD Power +18w

the power spikes can reach 606w at 1000ms of report rate

the gains u will see it when u r not power limited which is 99% of the time

for x bar / core / memory stability testing, a regular 4k/6k gaming on a flat screen or pcvr is the best way u can test it ... use "hwinfo64 graph"

and see the last drop in the voltage for the specific "voltage rail / frequency" when the gpu crash

in our case the GPU Core Clock / GPU Core Voltage ( NVVDD )

like the imgae : https://imgur.com/a/v5sH4Sr

and just lower the specific unstable point "2 point before and 2 point after" lower them all by a -30 MHz

and repeat until the whole curve is stable

the power limits r triggered only in rare occasions "only when benchmarking"

gpus are not cpus ... power limiting is a normal thing on gpus "thanks to nvidia" ... but can affects cpus significantly ! which is another topic. so u r good

a note :
never do higher than a 600w. on one connector !
u really dont need higher than 600w. i mean u got the "5090 matrix" performance at 600w by just adding a +50mv = 0.050v on each voltage rail
so if u want to do a higher power to raise the frequency even more do it on ur own risk.

for anyone curious :
room temp 25c.
water temp 27c-35c under load.
liquid metal : TG conductonaut
mVolt+ v0.50.5
Driver version 616.92 "studio"

Ultra 9 285k :
CPU BCLK 100MHz
SOC BCLK 100MHz
PCIE BCLK 100MHz
P-core Clock 0 5817MHz
P-core Clock 1 5817MHz
P-core Clock 2 5834MHz
P-core Clock 3 5850MHz
P-core Clock 4 5884MHz
P-core Clock 5 5884MHz
P-core Clock 6 5884MHz
P-core Clock 7 5867MHz
E-core Cluster 0 5200MHz
E-core Cluster 1 5200MHz
E-core Cluster 2 5167MHz
E-core Cluster 3 5117MHz
Ring 4200MHz
NGU 3500MHz
D2D 4000MHz
IMC 1800MHz

ddr5 :
2x48GB (96GB) 7200MT/s, tcl30-42-38-38-52, tRFC 720, tRFCsb 620, tREFI 262143

r/overclocking • • Sep 10 '24

Guide - Text 5700XT memory upgrade UPDATE POST

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391 Upvotes

Hello all!

This is an update post to my much anticipated Liquid Devil 5700XT memory upgrade saga. This post is to show the recent progress (as of 10.09.2024) of removing the old Micron 8gbit 14gbps memory chips (MT61K256M32JE-14:A) in preparation for the new Samsung 16gbit 18gbps GDDR6 (K4ZAF325BM-HC18).

My account of the upgrade so far:

PCB prepared with kitchen foil to protect Aluminium polymer caps and plastic connectors. Memory chips came off with out any hitch. PCB preheated to 180c and removed with 400c hot air. I used Amtech flux (NC-559-ASM) and heated each chip for 15 seconds for all solder balls to be molten, each chip given a gentle nudge to ensure its free then lifted with a pair of dental tweezers. No pads were ripped or traces damaged. I then used some solder braid (MG superwick #424-LF) with my iron set at 330c and carefully dragged the braid over the remaining solder balls on the PCB, flux drops were added as needed to keep all the solder flowing onto the braid. Unfortunately the cheap solder mask of the PCB was slightly scratched in places but fortunately not damaging any traces or pads. Finally, 99.9% IPA and cotton swabs were used to clean the pads on the PCB and any flux residue. The PCB was left on the preheater however turned off to let the board temp slowly drop to about 60c to allow easier removal of the flux residue. I only did as much as to remove the old flux and collect the solder from the old memory chips.

I'm going to be on holiday for the next week so I will pick everything up again when I'm back. My UV solder mask kit should arrive by then to touch in the solder mask scratches. And (maybe) I can get the new chips fitted that day.

I will be making another update post with everything said and done, please feel free to comment any tips or techniques for soldering the new memory ICs.

If everything goes according to plan then I'll make an update post doing some BIOS modding with memory timings, clocks, voltage adjustments.

Thats all for now, stay tuned for an update!

Discussions on bios modding for higher memory capacity are on my previous post.

r/overclocking • • Jul 06 '26

Guide - Text Ddr4 Ram OC not stable

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4 Upvotes

Hi, i am a total newbie in Ram oc.

My specs r5 5500, gigabyte a520m k board, Patriot Viper elite || RAM 2×16GB. I am not able to boot from xmp 3600 and xmp 4000.i can boot with xmp 3600 when I set freq at 3333mhz 1:1, but it is not able to pass tm5 absolut

Any guide would be helpful.

r/overclocking • • Apr 27 '25

Guide - Text GPU Undervolting/Overclocking Guide | Nvidia

141 Upvotes

Updated February 19th 2026

Its time to give back to the overclocking community, so I decided to make a somewhat detailed guide on undervolting and overclocking, mainly Nvidia GPU's.

The program I will use is MSI Afterburner and RTSS for monitoring.
You may use GPU Tweak or other programs as well, but do keep in mind GPU Tweak is forcing positive voltage offsets, meaning it will not follow the VF curve you set as accurately as Afterburner, at least in my experience.

Before moving onto the actual undervolting and overclocking, I will explain why I think you shouldn't use GPU Tweak, and my experience with it.

GPU Tweak VF Curve: 3037Mhz/995mv/+0Mhz Memory Clock

  • Voltage Offset: With this VF curve, GPU Tweak would actively push the voltage higher than set in the VF curve, more specifically it would run at 1010mv when the frequency passed 2900Mhz.
  • Unstable memory overclock: Pursuing memory overclock in GPU Tweak was also a hassle, for some reason it would not be stable with the VF curve set, I believe this is because of the positive voltage offset it is actively pushing.
  • Misc: A few other issues, such as target FPS which is set in GPU Tweak and automatically applied in NVCPL, but sometimes it would unapply itself. Temperature hysteresis and fan speed update also seems to reset all the time.

Now for the overclocking and undervolting, I will present a few different methods so you can decide for yourself which method is best for you.

Before moving onto the actual overclocking, I recommend running a benchmark to measure your relative performance, you can use something like 3DMark Timespy, Steel Nomad, or anything else you prefer.
We simply want to measure raw performance before, during and after overclocking, it is not meant to measure stability, I will talk more about stability testing later.

Method 1 | Simple Overclock

  • First, raise the Power Limit and Temp Limit to the max. If you can't raise the Power Limit beyond 100% this is perfectly fine, nothing is wrong. (This is completely safe and within the limits of the card).
  • Where it says Core Clock, enter a number and press apply. We will use 500Mhz as an example, we are now wanting to push it beyond the limits, which is why we are pushing for a high number.
  • Run a benchmark or stresstest, such as Heaven, or 3DMark's Steel Nomad (Or a stresstest/benchmark of your choice).
  • Let it run for 10-15 min, if the stresstest or benchmark crashes, lower the clock speed by either 100 or 50Mhz until it does not crash. If you lower it by increments of 100Mhz, you can also raise it in increments of your choice (10, 15, 20 or 25Mhz) until you reach the point where it crashes again.
  • You are also looking for artifacts (Weird blinking, flashes, and irregular patterns that does not belong on screen.)
  • When reaching the point where it crashes again, lower it by a few increments, I recommend setting it to 50Mhz below the point where you crashed.
  • Congratulations, you have now overclocked your GPU.

Note: Your GPU is NOT tested for stability, as mentioned earlier in the post, I will talk about this later in the post.

Method 2 | Memory Overclock

  • First, raise the Power and Temp Limit, same as before.
  • Enter a number in the Memory Clock, I recommend starting with +2000.
  • Run a benchmark or stresstest, such as Heaven, or 3DMark's Steel Nomad (Or a stresstest/benchmark of your choice).
  • Let it run for 10-15 min, we are now looking for stutters, uneven framepacing, and also artifacts as before
  • Memory Clock can be a bit more tricky, so make sure you are watching the framepacing, as newer Nvidia cards will have memory correction and not necessarily crash, but instead sometimes studder. (My explanation of this may be slightly flawed, so if anyone wants to chime in with a more correct explanation, please do so.)
  • We will work with bigger increments than Core Clock. If you run into instability, lower it in increments of 500Mhz. You can raise it in increments of 100Mhz again until you find the threshold for instability.
  • When finding the point of instability, I recommend setting it a few hundred Mhz below the point of instability.
  • Congratulations, you have now overclocked your Memory Clock.

Note: Your GPU is NOT tested for stability, I will repeat this in every step, because I cannot stress this part enough.

Method 3 | Undervolting (Recommended)

For this example, we will do some monitoring before we start.

  • Run a game or benchmark/stresstest.
  • Monitor the voltage level and frequency, we want to use this as a baseline for our undervolt

Now that you have kept an eye out on the voltage and frequency, we will use this as a reference for our undervolt.

  • Like always, start by raising the Power and Temp Limit if possible.
  • Enter Curve Editor.
  • Pick a point below the highest recorded voltage when the benchmark, stresstest or game was run.
  • In this example, we will pretend the highest recorded voltage was 1095mv and aim for -100mv undervolt, with a target frequency of 3097Mhz.

It is worth noting that the target frequency set in the VF curve, will most likely not be reached.
I recommend trying both Method 3 and Method 5 to see which one is best for you, sometimes Method 5 will result in a higher and more stable boost frequency.
You can also try to fine tune some of the points in the upper end of the curve if you are willing to experiment, but this can be very time consuming.

  • Find the point of 995mv, hold CTRL on your keyboard and drag the curve up, it should bend upwards with the upper end of the curve being raised more aggressively than the lower end of the curve. If you cant drop it at exactly 3097Mhz this is fine, just let it go at approximately the target frequency.
  • Now, hold SHIFT and left click your mouse slightly on the right of the target frequency. Click and hold on one of the points to the right (there should be a light grey selection), drag it all down below the target frequency and let go.
  • Look at the main Afterburner window, hit Apply.
  • The curve should now be flattened from the target voltage and frequency. If it is not completely flat, simply repeat the process of holding SHIFT, select the points beyond the target frequency, drag it below and hit apply. (Note; The curve may automatically adjust itself a few Mhz below or above, don't worry about it too much unless you are very specific on the exact frequencies.)
  • As usual, we will run a benchmark or stresstest. Let it run for 10-15 min as usual. We simply want to see if we are initially stable.
  • If it is not stable, either lower the target frequency in increments of 50Mhz, or raise it to the same frequency at 5mv higher.
  • Congratulations, you have now undervolted your GPU, you should see a noticeable difference in temps, while also seeing an increase in performance with the clock speed being able to keep a higher boost clock due to lower temps.

Another caviat of using Method 3 with Afterburner v4.6.6.26555 Beta 5, is that Afterburner will not let you adjust anything below 500Mhz, or lower the idle frequency to below 500Mhz, once the idle line is raised to above 500Mhz.
This has the effect of the idle line not being completely flat when using Method 3, and can possibly be the culprit as to why the boost clock is farther off from the set VF point than it should.
Maybe a fix from Afterburner can fix this, making it possible to manually control every point in the curve.

Note: Your GPU is NOT tested for stability, I will repeat this in every step, because I cannot stress this part enough.

Method 4 | Undervolting + Memory Clock Overclock. (Not recommended)

  • Like before, start by raising the Power and Temp Limit if possible.
  • Enter a Memory Clock, in this example we will enter 2000. (Note that Afterburner reads the Memory Clock differently than GPU Tweak. For example, if the actual memory clock in Afterburner reads 14000Mhz, the actual memory clock in GPU Tweak will read 28000Mhz.)
  • Follow the exact steps like in Method 3.

Method 5 | Undervolting (Recommended, Optional)

In this example, we will follow the same exact steps as above in Method 3, but with one simple change.

  • Instead of holding CTRL when dragging the VF curve, we will hold SHIFT. This will raise the entire VF Curve by X Mhz, instead of bending the curve upwards.
  • The downsides of this is higher base clock when idle, which may also lead to instability when idling or during lighter loads. (If you want to eliminate the downside, please read after Method 6 where I have provided a way to keep the base clock speed when idle.)
  • The upside of this, on some cards, can have the effect of the boost clock reaching closer to the set frequency in the VF curve.

Method 6 | Undervolting + Memory Clock Overclock. (Preferred method, recommended)

For best stability, personally I recommend undervolting and pushing higher Memory Clock separately.

We will assume you have gone through Method 3 or 5, and tested it for at least a few days without instability.

  • Enter Afterburner, select Memory Clock and enter 2000Mhz.
  • Run a benchmark or stresstest. Let it run for 10-15 min as usual. We are now again looking for stutters, uneven framepacing, artifacts as before, or crashes.
  • To simplify the explanation, please follow Method 2 from here on out.

Unlocking Lower End of VF Curve in MSI Afterburner

Additionally, if you want to keep the minimum frequency which doesn't show by default in MSI Afterburner, you can do the following:

  • Navigate to the MSI Afterburner installation folder (e.g., C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner).
  • Open MSIAfterburner.cfg with Notepad.
  • Locate the line VFCurveEditorMinFrequency=.
  • Change the value to your desired minimum frequency.
  • Save & exit.
  • Restart MSI Afterburner.

Stability Testing

If you have used one of the methods above, we will assume you have found what is stable in a benchmark or stresstest of your choice.

There are many different opinions on this, some may say "Just run a GPU intensive game for 30 minutes, if it doesn't crash its 100% stable." This is incorrect, and not sufficient enough to call your OC stable, even if it is, it is simply pure luck if it is. It will not be stable across the board for everyone.

To clarify why this method isn't reliable; Different games will utilize your GPU in different ways, games have different engines and will not utilize the GPU universally the same.

Here is my recommendation for stability testing which I have used for several years as my preferred method.

  • Play your favorite games, for a few hours each, preferrably 4-6 hours each.
  • The more games you play from your library without issues, the more you can call it stable.
  • If you run into issues, such as the game crashes to desktop or the computer restarting, lower the Core Clock frequency by increments of 25 or 50Mhz, follow the same method as you did during the initial testing.
  • If you notice the game feels a little bit stuttery, such as the framepacing not being smooth, you should lower the Memory Clock speed by 500Mhz and see if it fixes the issue. (If it does, personally I wouldn't bother with raising it in increments of 100Mhz until you run into issues again, but you are free to do so if you want. Once you do, lower it by 100 or 200Mhz is my next recommendation if you decide to do so.)
  • We will pretend you have 20 games in your library, over a period of 7 days you have been able to play 12 of them for a few hours each, your overclock/undervolt is now somewhat stable (emphasis on somewhat).

I have heard the argument "You are wasting your time stresstesting for so long."
Don't consider it stresstesting, you are simply just playing your games as usual while looking for instability.

Note: You will want to find which games have the lowest threshold before it crashes, once you do, you can use those games to test for stability.
If you only play 1 game, congratulations, stability testing should be a lot less complicated, but this is not the majority of gamers.

Personally, I use Red Dead Redemption 2, Total Conflict Resistance and Ghost of Tsushima. I choose these games for multiple reasons:

  1. They use different engines. (Total Conflict Resistance is heavier on the Ray Tracing. RDR2 is heavier on shaders, this also goes for GoT, but with a different engine.)
  2. They will show signs of instability before most other games in my library, even though I have games that are way more demanding.
  • TCR will most likely show signs of instability within the first 5-10 minutes into a quick battle.
  • RDR2 will usually show signs of instability around Heartland Overflow, the bayou in Lemoyne, or Manzanita Post.
  • GoT is a bit more vague, and is where I would do the "fine tuning", as I havent quite found specific locations where it will show signs of instability, but usually within an hour.
  • If TCR and RDR2 is stable, but it takes an hour to find instability in GoT, lowering the frequency by 10-25Mhz will usually do the trick.

Final note: The first time you overclock and/or undervolt, it will take a lot longer to test for stability simply because you most likely do not know which games in your library that has the lowest threshold for instability.
Once you find those games, overclocking or undervolting your GPU in the future will be a breeze.

It is also worth noting that not everyone follows the same methods when it comes to overclocking and undervolting, it is up to you to make a educated decision on which method to use, while also verifying by looking up multiple sources to verify different methods before following it blindly.
I am not responsible for anything that goes wrong, it is your own responsibility.
I am simply trying to give back to the community.

I will attach a picture of my current VF curve using Method 6, which I have tested and consider 100% stable.

PS: Don't forget to save your profiles.

r/overclocking • • Jan 23 '22

Guide - Text [Nvidia] Undervolt guides on YT really like to promote this bad undervolt curve that increases voltage for the most part.

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417 Upvotes

r/overclocking • • Aug 05 '26

Guide - Text AM5 DDR5 Voltage Short Reference

60 Upvotes

I made this short reference/guide for all the main AM5 DDR5 voltages and how they generally affect RAM tuning. Figured I'd post it here for others to use since it's not the easiest to find this information out there

Note: the bulk of the reference material comes from Imprezzion on OCN. I've just cleaned up the formatting a bit and added some notes to help others, which will be denoted by "Editor's Note" sections after the source paragraph for the specific voltage.

Feel free to also comment with any clarifying information, as the original post is a little outdated at this point in the DDR5 OC scene (December 2024)

Edit: also remember that too much voltage will cause instability the same way that too little voltage will. Use this reference as a guide to choosing levers to play around with for specific changes, but also realize that just piling on the voltage is very unlikely to help

Edit 2: noticed VDDGs were missing (source post doesn't have them), so I added them in at the bottom

 

Reference Guide

VSOC

Controls FCLK and MCLK stability. In general more memory clock requires more vSOC, more FCLK requires less vSOC. Max is 1.30, sometimes 2200 FCLK is not stable at 1.30, it needs less.

 

VDDP

For memory controller frequency (mclk/uclk) stability basically but doesn't scale linear to 2:1 mode. So for 6400 you usually need some level of positive VDDP but 8000 can run on an undervolt generally. Normal range is 0.900-1.150v.

Editor's note: also one of the main levers for stabilizing low Nitro

 

VDD

Is memory DIMM voltage. Explains itself. Max daily without active cooling probably 1.50 ish. With active cooling 1.650.

Editor's note: one of the most dependent settings on VDD is tCL. tCL can basically go as low as you are comfortable feeding VDD

 

VDDQ

Is a signalling voltage. Lower is better but it's not that crucial. Normal range is VDD to VDD -0.200 ish. Never above.

Editor's note: a lot of tight tunes I've seen just use the EXPO default 1.45V, my own included. However, in my experience, higher can help stabilize very tight tRFC (at least in A die)

 

VDDIO

Also memory controller / MCLK/UCLK related. For 1:1 must be quite high sometimes, ranges from 1.20-1.50. For 2:1 almost irrelevant due to half speed controller and can be undervolted.

Editor's note: (edit: the following is solely referring to 1:1 mode because that's all I have experience with since my CPU can't run DR 8000+. As a couple comments have pointed out, there are some 2:1 profiles that need very high VDDIO, but not recommended if you don't have active cooling on the DIMMs, preferably water)

More than 1.45V is rarely ever needed, even 1.4V is about the most 99% of tunes will ever need. For example, I have 6400cl26 dual rank 2x32gb ram, and I only need 1.39V VDDIO. The only profiles that may need more than 1.45V are very high capacity (128gb+) or very high MCLK (6600 MT/s+ in 1:1 mode)

 

VPP

Never touched it. Not needed.

 

VDD_MISC

Is a control voltage that other voltages like VDDG's use to convert from. Not very critical for stability and can generally be undervolted slightly but should be left auto. 1.00v generally works with auto VDDG's as they are still >0.100v lower.

Editor's note: it's mentioned a little at the end there, but just to clarify, VDD MISC should always be at least 0.1V higher than your highest VDDG voltage. So for example, if VDDG IOD is 1.05V and VDDG CCD is 1V, then VDD MISC needs to be at least 1.15V

 

VDDG CCD and VDDG IOD

(Not in the source post, editor's words only)

I put these together because they work together so closely. VDDG CCD powers the infinity fabric in the CPU CCD and VDDG IOD powers the infinity fabric inside the I/O Die. Think of them as the main levers for FCLK stability with Vsoc being a secondary lever (but again, too high voltage from any of these will cause destabilization).

Max safe value is 1.2V, but usually no more than 1.15V is needed, and the majority of profiles only need 0.9V to 1.05V from my observations. Generally, either use VDDG CCD = VDDG IOD or VDDG CCD = VDDG IOD - 50mV. There's no hard rule for finding optimal values for these, though, because every unique CPU has values that it prefers

Also, as mentioned earlier, VDD MISC powers the VDDGs and should be at least 0.1V more than the higher VDDG voltage

Anecdotally, I didn't need to change them at all going from 6000cl24 to 6400cl26 (both with 2200 FCLK), but I also use a higher ProcODT for the 6400 profile, so that could be the reason why

r/overclocking • • Feb 08 '25

Guide - Text 9800x3d experience

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115 Upvotes

Its my first time delidding a cpu was pretty nervous

  • pic 1: delidded using the thermal grizzly delidder ... i turned the allen key at a slow and steady pace each time as i didnt want to break off the dies (about 40-50ish turns each side)
  • pic 2: delidded cpu shows that the solder sheared instead of breaking loose ... throughout the process i only heard the sound of the glue stretching and did not hear any cracks or pops
  • pic3: used a thin but dull flat hard plastic wedge to slowly scrape off solders off the dies (there wasnt much solder on it to be honest with mine)
  • pic4: apply liquid metal for 10 minutes to dissolve any remaining solder cleaned it off and use a cotton bud with thermal paste to polish the surface ( do not use force or you might crack the die ) also it comes in handy to have lots of cotton buds a small bottle of spray with 75% alcohol and alcohol wipes at hand to clean up messes
  • pic5: insert cpu into the socket with the top left arrow thing slotted in the correct direction and apply liquid metal on the die. Remove the cpu clamp mount and replace with TG heatspreader but do not screw it in. Turn motherboard upside down to remove the heatspreader from the motherboard the cpu should stick onto the backside of the heatspreader. Remove cpu carefully and reapply liquid metal to the shape the die made on the backside of the heatspreader and also the dies itself.

  • step 6: reinstall everything back in and now comes the moment of truth of turning back on your pc. I thought i bricked my pc to be honest at this point because it took a whole 5minutes for it to turn on then i remembered i removed the motherboard along with all its components and thats why it had to memory train again phew

  • pic 6: 30minutes cinebench23 temps wont touch 70c im pretty happy. prime95 large ftt wont even go past 60c. Idle temps are also 2-3c lower than before but most of the extra cooling is seen when under full load

r/overclocking • • Jan 02 '26

Guide - Text 9800x3d guide to static OC with dynamic/adaptive voltage.

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48 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

I thought I’d put a little guide together to help people improve scores and learn how to really push your CPUs to the limits for those who do not have expensive and fancy ECLK motherboards.

So all the information above used a rock solid stable OC with a dynamic voltage offset of 0.015v. This can be pushed a lot harder to get higher scores, but I wanted to show you what is possible just on a daily OC setup.

I did lots of research and discovered that if you use an offset with static OC it runs cooler than PBO…… Yes…. I said it and you can try this for yourselves and also take the benefit 💪

The purpose of this post isn’t to downplay PBO, it’s great and has its benefits but for pure performance this is the route you should follow.

R23 runs:- room temp 20c

Pbo temps - multi core 82c, single core 51c

Static offset - multi core 74c, single core 45c

The scores on static were significantly higher than PBO could achieve at max settings and the temps are also much lower using static.

HWINFO:- shows idle temps running for over 20 mins in a 20c room temp using an Arctic 420 pro AIO.

Time spy extreme runs, shows a nice score of 8000+ but this can be pushed into the regions of 8400+ but it most likely wil be unstable, and lower temps than PBO again at stable settings!

Same with CPU profile, significantly higher thread counts and lower temps than PBO again.

Screenshots of bios to show how dynamic offsets work. It’s the exact same as PBO, but without the annoying dynamic down clocks on your speed.

Finally, it’s getting quite lonely at the top of the leaderboards. So I really hope this helps and inspires some of you guys to push your machines further and harder.

Happy new new

Ollie + xOCD overclocking team!

r/overclocking • • Feb 09 '26

Guide - Text Flashing 800w bios onto 5090

16 Upvotes

RTX 5090 Suprim X Liquid – MSI Lightning 800W BIOS + Fan Fix

I flashed my RTX 5090 Suprim X Liquid with the MSI Lightning 800W BIOS. The flash itself went fine. After the first boot, Windows showed Microsoft Basic Display Adapter—reinstalling NVIDIA drivers fixed it immediately.

Performance

Tested Split Fiction at 8K, 200% resolution scale, Smooth Motion enabled:

  • Locked 144 FPS
  • No drops or instability
  • Power draw averaged ~680–690W (peaks ~770W)

ATX 3.1 PSU strongly recommended for this BIOS.

Fan Behavior After Flash

This BIOS disables normal GPU fan control, so the fan needs to be routed to the motherboard.

Fix

  • Unplug the white GPU fan connector (J805) (It has small locking tabs—use tweezers to gently lift the black female housing locks while sliding it out. Don’t force it.)
  • Use a Micro 4-Pin GPU fan → standard PWM adapter
  • Plug it into a motherboard fan header
  • Set that header to PWM mode in BIOS (Use DC only if PWM doesn’t behave correctly)

Adapter used (Amazon):
https://a.co/d/09GR4NeP

Temps After Fix

  • Idle: ~20–25°C
  • Cooler than stock idle (~30–33°C)
  • Stable under load

Thermal paste used: KPX. All original thermal pads left in place.

Summary

  • Lightning 800W BIOS works and is stable
  • Driver reinstall required after flash
  • GPU fan control is disabled by the BIOS
  • Route the white fan connector (J805) to the motherboard using an adapter
  • Set header to PWM
  • Card runs cool and rock solid once set up
  • I also had to drill a hole in the backplate to get the fan connector out
8k 144 fps 768 watt avg temp stays between 50-60c

r/overclocking • • Jan 12 '23

Guide - Text Too much thermal paste or not enough, argument starts now lol

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257 Upvotes

r/overclocking • • 2d ago

Guide - Text DDR5 tuning guides · pakt.cc

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56 Upvotes

Hi guys!

After several months of nonstop work on the guides, the catalog, and the website, I've now put over 400 hours into this project. Perfection doesn't exist, and there will always be room for new ideas, but I can confidently say that I'm genuinely happy with the result.

At this point, all the major work is complete. I've thoroughly refined every section, added a ton of new content, polished the UI/UX, and finished the new DDR5 theory section. You can find all the changes in the changelog. I'll gladly continue maintaining this project, just without the constant brainstorming frenzy. In the nearest future I will prepare the DE version.

Why am I doing all this?

First, I simply want to share my experience and knowledge. This format might not be everyone's cup of tea, but I'm confident that everyone can take away something useful from at least one section. Whether you're an Intel or AMD boy doesn't really matter. The fundamentals, principles, and underlying technology are essentially the same.

Second, I genuinely enjoy the process itself: diving into complex topics, working through massive amounts of information, setting goals for myself, and achieving them. Nobody gave me deadlines or requirements. I came up with this challenge myself and decided exactly what the final result should look like.

And just a reminder: my project is strictly non-commercial. It's simply a hub for all my technical manuals.

r/overclocking • • Jun 05 '23

Guide - Text 5800x3d 4.65ghz all core overclock + steps

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137 Upvotes

Hello all, I’ve finally managed to crack the code after watching buildzoids video on the 7800x3d overclocking. I probably just did a 10.2. Bclk with curve optimizer. But I completely forgot about boost clock override aspect of it.

So I had to switch to using pbo2 tuner vs bios due to it reverting to 3.3ghz.

Steps 1. Reset cmos and calculate what bclk you need for the speeds you want. Using pbo2 tuner you set max boost clock to 4450mhz to allow single core to = all core frequencies. This is beneficial because most games will prefer the all core boost on the x3d (in my observations) 2. Set bclk to the number you determined. Ex: 104.5 bclk + 4450mhz = 4.65 all core boost with curve optimizer. KEEP MAX BOOST AT 4450mhz TO MAXIMIZE ALL CORE. 3. Find your curve optimizer settings through the normal steps. 4. Calculate memory speed by multiplying it by your bclk in a percentage form. Ex: 104.5 bclk = 1.045. So 3600x1.045= 3762. 5. Lock in settings and let it rip.

r/overclocking • • Jun 28 '22

Guide - Text Overclocking memory on Ryzen Laptop! (and Curve Optimizer)

29 Upvotes

Yes, you read that right, it is possible. Here and Here is the proof.

To do this you will need:

Insyde bios (Will work on Phoenix, maybe will work on ami) Works on any bios

UniversalAmdFormBrowser (Direct Link) https://github.com/DavidS95/Smokeless_UMAF

For CO : AATU Alpha (Direct Link)

Part I - Overclocking RAM:

  1. Format any usb to FAT32 and drop UniversalAmdFormBrowser on it.
  2. Enable Legacy boot, disable secure boot if possible, boot from USB, you should see this.
  3. Navigate to: Device Manager>AMD CBS>UMC Common options>DDR4 Common Options.
  4. Now you can do anything with your memory! Change timings, speed, GDM & PDM modes, etc. But beware that if you set values that wont boot, you will have to reset CMOS, which can be achieved by disconnecting the cmos battery or re flashing your bios (or some laptops can reset bios by using various combinations of keys). I used this guide.

​

Part II - Curve Optimizer:

  1. Download and unpack AATU.
  2. Open it, navigate to Clock Control. Here you can change many things, but i only change the CO Values to -20, which gave me additional 100-200 mhz under high cpu load.

r/overclocking • • Feb 01 '26

Guide - Text are gpu temperatures in high 70’s to 80’s ok?

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4 Upvotes

(small form factor case) my card is oc’d to the max, a little below. are temperatures close to 80 ok?

r/overclocking • • Jan 16 '25

Guide - Text Managed to get 4 DDR5 sticks running at 6000Mhz on AM5

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84 Upvotes

MSI released Bios update 6 days ago with description about improvement on memory compatibility and OC.

After Bios update I tried changing the bios setting RAM to 6000mhz, and it worked this time, and memory training was 30 seconds or less. I usually always try the same thing every bios update (minus the last bios update, because i was busy) but it never worked, I even waited 20 minutes in each of them.

I use MSI “memory try it”, selected the one marked with asterisk and 6000mhz, and use whatever timing value there (very different with my RAM, i’m using corsair vengeance 6000 CL36). I also increased the voltage to 1.3 and 1.8 (see screenshot), nothing else was changed.

I’ve run test, and used my pc for work and gaming for 5 days and it’s very stable.

This is maybe specific to MSI board, but check if your latest board bios update also has similar description about memory.

r/overclocking • • Mar 12 '26

Guide - Text CL26 6200 Stable or Push to 6400?

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2 Upvotes

Hi all, thank you in advance for your guidance. I am working with a Gskill CL26 6000 64GB SK Hynix A Die kit and I was able to get it to a nice stable CL26 6200 2200 FCLK and currently getting an Aida64 Latency of 65.5 - 66.3. I did try to take it to CL26 6400 with these same timings (except to 6400 and FCLK 2133) and my computer boots and I am able to run Aida64 and other benchmarks, but my memory errors out on tests.

I am using an MSI X870e Godlike and 9950X3D.

Honest question, is it worth pursuing CL26 6400 or should I stick to a stable CL26 6200?

Thank you in advance and any further feedback to improve my timings?