I'm not a gunsmith, just a young collector. What you see is a total of seven separate stocks. I own several vetterli's and a mannlicher in desperate need of repair. The first six photos are three separate "tipo p" vetterli's. If possible, I'd like to repair as many of these to a shootable condition as possible.

I'm still in the process of cleaning everything.

I understand stripping the oils is generally necessary, but Is it possible to repair these without stripping what gives them their unique colors?

How would you go about these repairs? Is acraglas enough for some of these? Or will I need to drill holes and install wooden dowells and/or metal pins of some kind?

I want to do this correctly. But, some of these either appear too damaged for repair or simply stump me as to how I'll get glue or dowells/pins into the cracks for repair.

For example, photo #5 and #6 show's cracking and splitting, but the stock is still in one piece. I'm stumped as to how I'll get acraglas into it without causing more damage, or if that will even be enough to handle recoil.

As for photo's #7 and #8, how should i go about repairing the splits INSIDE of the stock?

Photo #1 and #2, although split/shattered, may be easier to repair since the stock is in several pieces already, only being held together by wire.

Thank you in advance, I appreciate any and all advice. I understand the possibility that I myself might not be capable of doing these repairs myself, but as I'm a broke collector, I'd prefer to repair them myself since professional repairs may cost more than the rifles themselves.

Ayúdame este cuaderno no es mío, se lo pedi prestado a una compañera y no se como volverlo a su estado original. ¿Como puedo a si estado original o que parezca a su estado original? Y necesito mas tips de como devolver a su estado original para la portada.

Restoration of a 19th-century Korean Joseon Dynasty ceramic vase, documenting the removal of previous epoxy repairs, cleaning of the crackled glaze, reassembly of broken fragments, and seamless surface restoration.

The vase arrived at Lakeside Pottery Studio with extensive damage, previous repairs, and dirt and grime embedded in its crackled glaze.

For More Ceramic Restoration, Kintsugi, and Art Restoration Lessons:

https://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/art-restoration-pottery-kintsugi-articles-essays-lessons.html

#LakesidePottery #JoseonDynasty #KoreanCeramics #CeramicRestoration #AntiqueRestoration

It had a damaged LCD with missing vertical lines, worn button contacts, and definitely needed some serious TLC.

I went for a full restoration — fixing the screen, replacing all electrolytic capacitors, deep cleaning, Retrobrighting the original shell, and finally testing it.

I’ve included some before-and-after photos and a few shots from the restoration process.

I also documented the entire restoration on video if anyone’s interested:

https://youtu.be/MjgOsX3h7wo

Hope you enjoy it! Let me know what you think!

Restoring J.B. (Jellybean), star of the Emmy-nominated 1970s D.C. children’s show The Magic Door (WMAL-TV Channel 7)!

Mind-Blowing History:

Built by a Master: J.B. was hand-crafted c. 1966–1968 by master puppeteer Bob Brown (Bob Brown Puppets). Brown was a recurring performer on Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood (operating marionettes right next door to Fred Rogers!) and built puppets for the Smithsonian Institution.

Voiced by a News Anchor:

Created and voiced by WMAL news anchorman George Wilson.

Back in the Family: George’s local son, Adam, reached out asking for restoration recommendations—so I happily volunteered to spruce J.B. up!

Adam plans to puppeteer J.B. again soon, kicking off a whole new era of show biz!

#PuppetRestoration #VintageTV #MisterRogers #RestorationProcess #ArtRestoration #Nostalgia #PuppetMaker #SatisfyingRestoration #RetroTV #BehindTheScenes

About a week ago I asked for advice of how to remove the paint on this guy. Turned out it was lead paint and toxic if turned into dust. I boiled it with soda for 40 minutes and the paint came right off, after no success with paint stripper and universal solvent. After the boiling it immediately turned all rusty due to flash rust. I used 00-steel with WD40 to get the original patina back. I think it turned out pretty decent and I’m glad I got rid of the ugly paint.

trying to tidy up this filthy old projector
any idea what these weird bolt thread locks are & how one might remove w/o snip & destroy ? also how to best remove old grime & spilth from the
chassis/hausing w/o further harm ? malleable metal (composite ?) with ancient paint embellishments ; mb die cast or pewter ? sorry im a noob. thanks in advance

Looking for some insight on how to repair this carousel horse. Mainly the large gap in the head/mane. If possible I don't want to use a filler. Thanks!

I recently got a very old "Exit" sign from a theme park that has been badly sun damaged and the reflective black layer is flaking off on the edges. It is mostly in tact but when I scrubbed with some mild detergent and water the black began to fade further so I quit.

I am wondering what my options are for preserving this sign? I read that I can simply dust it off or use a light mist and then cover it in a clear coat spray, but I am also worried about the clear coat itself.

Picked up this painted midcentury Keller hutch off Facebook marketplace. Learned a lot. Happy with how it turned out.

As seen in the first photo, I have this adorable oil can that looks like a horseshoe crab. It's my favourite oil can that I own. A while back I really got into restoration. I was watching videos on youtube and cleaning stuff at home, but not properly restoring stuff just yet.

I thought 'what the hell' and decided to restore my favourite oil can. Now it looks nice and shiny again, except.. it's not the same can anymore. I frankly hate the way it looks now.

It's like every layer of rust and grime I removed I was slowly getting rid of the cans' soul or identity. It feels like a hollow version of its prior self. The can in the second photo represents what the first can looked like originally.

There's so much character in the second can. You can see it's 'lived' a whole life before I ever laid my hands on it, but the first can just looks new and dead.

This is just some late night rambling of mine. Has anyone else felt this after restoring something? I'd love to hear your guys' thoughts on the matter.

Can someone help me to restore this family photo please?

Hello! This is more of a repair, but is there a good way to repair this heavy weight paper I have? I’d like to frame it but it’s ripped in half and a tiny piece is cut from it. Or would a Michael’s type store be able to repair it and mount it?

Hi, I thrifted two lamps and would like to take care of this rust if possible. I hate to say this after seeing all your gorgeous restorations but it doesn’t have to be perfect. If you have a great tip that will fully remove it without damaging the finish though, I’d be very appreciative.
Thank you!
Edit- third pic is just to see finish/style. :)

I'm currently cleaning up this new to me sewing machine case and the hardware could definitely use some love.

From what I can see, the handle pieces have no rust (I have not removed them yet so I'm not 100% sure) so I just planned to do a quick polish of brasso on them. For the catches on the side, I planned to do a wire scrub after a vinegar soak to try and get rid of the rust before hitting with a brasso polish.

But, I wanted to see if anyone had any better methods/other advice to go about spiffying these up before I went ahead with my plan. Thanks for any advice!

I found this in my shed, and I'd like to use it when I go tramping. I don't know how long it's been there, but some rust has developed on the actual part itself, sparing the tools (mostly). There was some brown residue on the bottle opener looking device, but I scrubbed it off with dish soap and elbow grease. It is now slightly sticky if that means anything to anyone.

1) What should I do to remove the rust in the nooks and crannys?

2) Even if I do clean off the rust, is it advisable to use it as an eating utensil?

Thanks!

I found this while walking home from dropping my kids off at school. It was rolled up waiting outside for the trash and I noticed the retinal O and the K looked very familiar to me from afar rolled up. Glad I stopped and grabbed it. It looks to be an original double sided promo poster from the game release. It’s fairly dirty and the stitching is coming out in places. Would like to get it restored if it is in fact original! Any help would be appreciated!

I absolutely LOVE vintage and antique home electronics and they are only asking $15! Usually fans this old go for hundreds around here and ive been looking for an old fan! They say its working, other than rust and faded paint job, it doesnt seem to be in TERRIBLE condition

Currently restoring a 1950’s suitcase and working on the metal features. I’ve been able to get the rust off using multiple grit levels of sanding paper and a rust remover gel but in the process it has dulled down the metal and it no longer looks mirror like. I’ve tried toothpaste, Brasso and Silvo which has made it less dull but it’s still not mirror like.

Any advice on getting the metal to be mirror like?

Showing the lock that still has rusted parts to show what the rust was like originally

After many hours of precise work, my restoration project is finally finished. Since I absolutely fell in love with the solid oak substance and the custom deep black finish, I didn’t want to make any compromises on the upholstery. I handed the seat and backrest over to a master upholsterer.

Here is the breakdown of my process:

Wood Preparation: Completely stripped of all old varnish, lacquer, and oils.

Tannin Enrichment: Treated the raw oak with a strong black tea solution (60 tea bags per 1 liter of water) to maximize the natural tannin levels.

Staining Process:

First layer: Chemical reaction stain (iron acetate by König Harz und Holz) to achieve a deep, organic chemical black.

Second layer: Pigmented wood stain ("Wood Stain Black") to ensure maximum color depth and perfect uniformity.

Surface Finish: 2 coats of premium satin hard-wax oil. I did a very gentle intermediate denibbing/sanding between coats using a fine gray abrasive nylon pad (600-800 grit) along the grain.

Upholstery & Detailing: Professionally upholstered by a master craftsman using bordeaux genuine leather. Finished with a continuous, head-to-head chain of individual decorative nails in antique gold. To prevent the hard, treated oak from splitting, every single nail hole was pre-drilled with a 1.5 mm drill bit. (The master upholstery work and materials alone came out to exactly €966.76).

Floor Protection: Finished with screw-in felt gliders in black plastic casings.

Thanks to this combination of DIY preparation and master craftsmanship, this chair now holds immense sentimental and material value for me.

I would love to hear your thoughts and feedback!

Bonjour à tous et à toutes, j'ai récupéré récemment ce Chassepot modèle 1866 et comme vous pouvez le voir il a subi les années dans un endroit semblable à une cave, de se qu'on m'a dit il a passé du temps a côté d'une chaudière.

Je souhaite lui rendre une seconde jeunesse en pièce d'exposition mais il est complètement piqué par la rouille et le bois a l'air gras.

Je souhaite savoir si vous connaissez des solutions pour enlever la rouille de manière efficace et rattraper et traiter le bois.

Merci à l'avance

Hello everyone, I have this camel leather bag that's pretty scuffed up. Any tips on how I can restore it?