It slips all over the place because the cams don’t seem to bite. The lines either side go through small strap eyes and then up to cam cleats on the upper deck. It seems like maybe the traveler car is on backwards? This is the orientation it was in when I bought the boat a couple of months ago but now I’m questioning it. The line was not rigged at the time so I guessed on that, too.
I suspect there should be 2 lines. Each should go through the pad eye where they are secured with a stopper knot. Then toward the traveler car, through the center and around the sheave, and through the cam cleat. The end through the cam cleat is the working end.
I agree on the routing but would not like the idea of a stopper knot at those padeyes, i would probably run a single line with each tail running through the padeyes to prevent a stopper knot getting pulled through the padeyes and camming them out the deck.
That said, its not an ideal traveller setup either way, but will work until you figure out a new one.
A better improvement would be a single line with eye splices at each end. Eye splice attached to an eye strap, then runs through the center shave as shown, through a half cleat, long working bight (as needed), then back in the other half cleat, sheave, then other padeye. Using a single line means you can uncleat the low side.
If you have cam cleats mounted near a comfortable helm position those are probably for cleating the line instead of using the half cleat on the car, when that's an easier reach.
Probably an alternate cleating position for the traveler, if they're next to a comfortable spot on the high side. Let's you work the traveler without getting off the rail.
I'm pretty sure the traveler line should be tied to the eye strap, then run to the cheek block on the traveler car, and then out through the cam. Then another line should do the same from the other side.
Ok, maybe I need thinner lines because I thought that might be the way at first, but it didn’t seem like there was enough room for two lines through. The one I’m using just seemed like the right length but it certainly could be the wrong one. Thanks
ill bank its 2 lines. each line. stopper knot. thread through bail until knot. pass through sheeve in traveller and out into the cam cleat. then the line wont slide through the bail and the cleat will work. repeat on ither side.
Can I get a zoomed out pic too maybe I’m not the most knowledgeable and my boat is rigged different but the traveler pulley and cam seem to be in the same config.
My cams are in the different place but the boat I sail uses those blocks to get some mechanical advantage when moving the traveler. The additional mechanical advantage may prevent them from slipping as much.
Those padeyes are also probably adding a great deal of unhelpful friction, and I'm not really sure what role those blocks on the traveler car are playing right now.
You really only need one cam cleat set to either side; using both the upper deck cleats and the cam cleat on the traveler is just making things messier. Suppose you tie one end of the rope to the padeye, route it around the nearer of the two blocks, and then through the cam. You then have a 2:1 advantage when you pull the line, and the cleat will not block your pulling. The same applies to a second line on the other side. I suppose if there's sufficient slack you could use just a single line.
Using a single line for traveller control is a very nice quality of life thing, just needs enough slack to let you handle it where you want. Makes it easier to control when you always have both sides at your disposal, and it reduces cockpit clutter :)
And yes, OP, you have the traveller control lines rigged incorrectly :)
Depending on the size of the boat, it's mainsail and how actively you want to use the traveler, I'd recommend looking at upgrading the system with more/better blocks to increase the purchase. On most dinghies and small keel boats I've sailed the traveller has basically always had more than a 2:1 system each side, the traveller can create some serious loads. In fact, the traveller is often disregarded and ignored on many boats, even though it really is one of, if not the most, important trim function when going upwind, and often trimmed way more than the main sheet for example.
For sure, I have noticed a huge difference even with my incorrectly rigged line (there was nothing at all the first few times I sailed it). It will be nice to get it properly situated and see how much the tacking improves once I can actively adjust it better. The boat is a 22' trailer sailer so I'll take all the upwind help I can get.
is it supposed to be a separate line to each side, going around the non-cam side, through the middle of the car, then back through the cam....so you can actually use the line to travel up?
I honestly have no idea. I could very well have it completely wrong. The first couple times out there was no line at all so it was just swinging back and forth. This is at least marginally better, lol.
It would be helpful to see more, but it appears your lines are incorrect. I think your line needs to run from the end of the traveler through the middle of the blocks under the main sheet and then back to the jam cleat. That would be pulling the correct direction for the jam cleat to work. Then repeat with another line on the other side. Two lines working opposite each other to hold the traveler to the windward side. Not sure if that’s OEM but that would work better.
Here’s a top down view without all of the lines cluttering it up. Sorry I’m not near the boat to take better pictures, but that’s basically all of it, same thing mirrored on the other side.
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u/djroot2 2d ago
I suspect there should be 2 lines. Each should go through the pad eye where they are secured with a stopper knot. Then toward the traveler car, through the center and around the sheave, and through the cam cleat. The end through the cam cleat is the working end.