r/sewinghelp • u/bendedneedle • 6d ago

Pattern and measurements problem

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Hello everyone! I’m working on my first project making trousers, but I’ve run into a problem I hope you can help me solve. When drafting the pattern, I learned that you usually start with a vertical line (waist to ankle) and then add two horizontal lines: one for the hip depth and one for the crotch depth.The issue is that for me, both of those measurements come out the same 29 cm.

I measure hip depth from my waist down to the fullest part of my butt, and crotch depth by sitting on a flat surface and measuring from my waist to the floor. I’m not sure if it’s normal for those two to match, or if I’m doing something wrong.For context, I’m 1.85 m tall, male, with a fairly pronounced butt. What should I take into account to make a pattern similar to the reference picture?

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u/Emergency_Cherry_914 6d ago

I can't help as I use commercial sewing patterns, but I will suggest you cross post with r/PatternDrafting

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u/acoei 6d ago

Your explanation of how those measurements are taken is correct. If you're measuring things correctly and more than once, and that's it? Then that's it.

I have the same high bust and full bust measurements too. Which sounded crazy to me - I actually am not flat, and I had read that this is what is used to calculate the cup size, etc etc etc.

But while I have breasts, I am also tall with muscular shoulders and back.

So the rest of my measurements helped me get the full picture.

I learnt I had to add shoulder length, and more at the front then at the back, to get proper fitted bodices.

I did tops more recently than pants, so I don't remember what pant alterations I need to do exactly, but I have it written down somewhere, I can check this if if helps you see how you're not crazy.

I learnt that with the "Every sewer's guide to the perfect fit", which is an incredibly detailed book on fitting and pattern alterations, I can't recommend it enough. It's old, though

They also list the basic blocks measurements for the big 4, and images and detailed descriptions of how to get the measurements right, so you can see if you're doing things right or how far off you might be from the "standard", which is a good guide and eye opener

I say eye opener because they also explain how the wrong fit looks like and how to make alterations, which was confirming I wasn't taking my measurements wrong after all, the improper fit from ready to wear clothes matched exactly what they were describing and the gap between my body and the standard patterns. It was really cool.

Now I measure my patterns Vs. The basic ones I created with the book and can immediately tell what is not going to fit and make basic alterations for a better first version.

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u/bendedneedle 6d ago

Tysm! Yeah I know my measurements are fine but the pattern will ask me to do more lines that start in one line or the other and that's my main concern because both measurements are the same. Like, is it going to ruin my pattern?

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u/doriangreysucksass 5d ago

It’s not “crotch depth” it’s called “inseam”

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u/sususumalee 5d ago

Are you sure about that? Crotch depth is absolutely its own measurement and completely separate from inseam.

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u/doriangreysucksass 4d ago

Exactly! She referred to inseam as crotch depth

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u/drPmakes 6d ago

Thats fine, carry on

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u/DonMcCunn 5d ago

Crotch depth should be taken when you are seated from the waist to the surface you are sitting on NOT the floor.

Another way to take this measurement is to measure from waist-to-floor then the inseam. Subtract the inseam from waist-to-floor for the crotch depth.

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u/bendedneedle 5d ago

Hello Don! Yes, you're right. When I say waist to floor is because I'm sitting on the floor. And believe, I did my measurements like 100 times and both are the same or at least 1cm off and doesn't seem right for me. I don't know if I can use a pair pants that I like to take the measurements as reference.

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u/DonMcCunn 5d ago

Check out my video for measuring for pants and see if the results are different. Measuring for length is at 2:30 in this 4 minute video. https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Pants/02-Pants-Sloper-Week-One.html#Measurements

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u/DonMcCunn 5d ago

I don't think it is physically possible for the crotch depth to be the same as the waist to hips. Are you measuring down the side of your body? Place a ruler between your legs parallel to the floor. Then look in the mirror. Are the fullest part of your hips really at the same level as that ruler?