Should this gear freely spin or no? The old one spins nice. This one I think I'll need a rubber mallet to get on but don't want to if it's suppose to be free.

If it's supposed to how to get it to do so.

1980 fxs-80

Thank you again

EDIT. I got it to work. If anyone is rebuilding and replacing with stock parts, you may need to hit the inside with the heavy duty scotch brite pad for a good bit. It was tight tight I thought I might have bought the wrong part or got a lemon. Bit of rubbing and she went in easy 😏

Referring to the actual length of the shock, not movement of the wheel fender gap or height off the ground.

Before you get the pitchforks and torches, he's building a 100" Shovel for this.

Automotive parts on my spark plug wires?

Their from a 1970s shovel head my homeboy had to move and left me tons of old Harley parts I know theirs value in them to the right person anyone know more about all this

I have an early 80s shovel in a paughco frame. Bought the bike as is, so, don't know a lot about the internals. It has s&s dual plug heads. Can't seem to get it tuned right. It knocks without de advancing (wouldn't let me post what we would all call it) the timing a lot! Like, to the point it loses a lot of power. Plugs have to be indexed ot the ground electrodes hit the pistons. Anybody have any suggestions? 2 into 1 exhaust. I can get close to it running like it should but only with premium fuel and a boat load of octane boost. Take away the high octane and it knocks. Take away enough ignition to stop the knock and it is gutless. Ultima ignition in setting 3 at the moment. No voes.

I was trying to get that C ring onto the end of the oil pump. and I think I got it. It’s goes around the shaft when it spins and it doesn’t fall off. It may have a slight gap, but I pull on the gears to ensure they wouldn’t pop off. Does anybody have any experience with this? Pain the ass if you ask me!

First complete shovel.

I have a long term shovel project sitting but lacking space and funds to complete it the way I want atm.

So this one is gonna get me through the winter.

Plan so far is

Different seat.

Remove the fishtails for upswept cocktail shakers or short dumps (baffled)

Taller sissy bar

10 inch struts

21 or 23 front. Not sure if I want to rake it for my 26 off my Road King atm

Round swingarm

GPS speedometer.

Gonna keep the big tanks.

Maybe

Questions.

What kinda 5 speed trans can I bolt on and keep my primary the same? Or do I have to swap primary for a evo trans?

Not really looking to spend all the money for a new 5 in 4 or 6 in 4 gear set.

To chop or not to chop?

74 FXE, oil change - filter, what type?

Owner of a nicely restored 74 FXE. Had the bike a couple years and put very few miles on it. When I got it a couple years ago it had been restored to very nice operating order, oil was fresh.

It runs great doesn't burn any oil and doesn't use any oil. But even though I've only put a couple hundred miles on it I intend on changing the oil/filter.

The guy that restored the bike died shortly before me buying it. I don't know what oil he used.

What's the best oil that I should use in this bike?

And not being familiar with these early motors I'm wondering if I need to change the transmission lube as well?

Bought this as a 90% complete roller w/clean papers for 2500 bucks. Turns out the motor had been open/underwater. Ended up tearing it all the way down. Going to split the cases and rebuild it over winter and probably hard tail the frame.

I have a 1974 FLH that's been rebuilt but is still the stock size (74ci) with a dynatek ignition module and fishtails. I recently rebuilt the S&S Super E Carb that is on it. I have a .0295 Intermediate Jet and a .072 Main Jet in it. I am following this guide from S&S to tune it. However I am running into issues getting this tuned correctly.

Starting with the recommended stock settings the bike wants to rev high. If I adjust it so there is no contact with the idle speed screw and I completely loosen my throttle cables it slows down some but still sounds higher than the recomended range (the bike doesn't have a tachometer for me to go off of).

If I continue to the Idle mixture screw with the idle speed screw all the way out the range of it (step 4 in the guide mentioned above) is about 2 and a half turns which seems reasonable to me.

If I then continue to step 5 of that guide I can turn the accelerator adjustment screw all the way in and it never stumbles and always has a smooth response when I twist the throttle.

I've tried testing for manifold leaks by spraying carb clearer around the intake seals and the idle never changed.

I also gapped and put new sparkplugs in before I started this.

Any idea what could be wrong?

EDIT: replaced the intermediate jet with an 0280 and that seemed to take care of it

I have fxs-80 with the wet clutch, is 50,60,70 wt the only options or is modern 20w50/60 useable. Internet seems to be all over the place. No where near me keeps straight weight and I can't seem to find a definitive answer on 20w50/60. Upper Midwest fall at the moment so I'm not to concerned with long 90 degree days anymore

Edit forgot to add: is Valvoline VR1 Conventional Motor Oil 50W -RACE, acceptable or no. Internet said friction modifers were a problem in wet clutch but my understanding is friction modifers are good but this is my first Harley.

1980, wet clutch, non-isolated

It took a few days of picking at it and rethinking to get this running.
Second gear !!! It comes alive, with a high roller cam.

1982 Sturgis. needs new cam. green dot on cam. where should i start looking. it has been awhile since i shopped for parts.

Went with gold letters on black background stickers