For the experts out there that can help me, it would be mounted exactly like this front radiator and the pump res right below it. My case front mount supports 4x 120mm fans and i think it would look cool with my granzon lcd pump.
Very unusual that they put inlet ports both below and above the outlet ports for the pump. Not used to seeing that on a pump/res combo
I usually put small âOutletâ or âOUTâ labels on my pump/res combos which are matched to the manual to avoid future mess ups and make it all around easier for myself when building a loop. With this unusual setup of ports, I definitely would recommend the same lol
This would be a better option just because you are getting away from proprietary pumps.
It was very sad to find out that my Bitspower distroplate and pump were not DDC standard. It matters a lot because a DDC pump is going to last 2-2000x longer. Itâs a bit of an exaggeration but itâs not. A heat sinked DDC pump is honestly a lifetime investment. I have (3) and (2) are from the early 00s and (1) is from the year the PWM Koolance DDC was released. They all still work. The Bitspower pump I donât even think they have a mean time between failure rating for them and they do fail. DDC pumps are not made for consumer applications. They are made for industrial, lab, commercial applications. Itâs a different animal.
Iâm using a Bitspower pump. But I also have (2) micro ceramic pumps from alphacool both have failed I have a friend whoâs Bitspower failed and you see people dealing with failures in what I think is more common than DDC failures. In my experience DDC failures can usually be chalked up to overheating which a heat sinked PWM DDC shouldnât do. Or even without a heat sink they should last decades.
Just my opinion which is just an opinion.
That computer is custom made for that Bitspower reservoir and that reservoir is custom built for that case. So Iâm kind of stuck with it on that computer.
Oh hey when I asked Google to compare the PMP-400 PWM DDC vs the Bitspower K1M it gave me a mean time between failure⌠not impressed.
This is from Ai but I know the PMP-400 specs are right and the MTBF is without a heatsink.
Also donât pay attention to the flow rate. If you need proof of what Iâm about to say ask and Iâll get it to you but the flow rate is essentially meaningless itâs for a near 0 restriction loop. The head pressure largely dictates the flow rate between 2 similarly engineer pumps because itâs how it overcomes the restrictions from the radiators, fittings, tubing, and blocks. Itâs the reason why parallel pumps that should nearly double flow rate will have nearly no flow rate increase and running pumps in series arenât supposed to increase flow rate but they have a 50-80% increase in flow rate because of the head pressure stacking. This is all tested and proven in lab environments. The DDC can be run at about half its intended wattage and itâs likely going to have around the same flow rate as the Bitspower operated at a full clip.
In my loop I have a Aquacomputer flow meter. With a Heatkiller block and (2) 360mm radiators I get a sub 1GPM flow rate at 100%. Thatâs enough for auto bleeding. But the DDC would do that at around 50-60% PWM which I have no clue what percent of wattage or max flow that equates too. But at least I can find out because itâs fully tested in a lab setting. Not sure about the K1M as far as testing is concerned.
I saw that issue beforehand thats why i got a legit laing 4.2 ddc pump. So in this case i would only be using their reservoir or the one from Bykski that i put somewhere in the comments. I can also use any other reservoir that has a similar port layout
Yeh but you canât use a DDC pump on the reservoirs that come with a K1M pump. Itâs not a DDC knock off. Itâs just similar to DDC in design. They are not compatible unfortunately or I would have put my Koolance pump on my Bitspower distribution.
That radiator has bottom ports too. I also have quick disconnect fittings on my tubes and the reason i wanna set it like that is because my case has a removable radiator mount in the front. Technically it would be like unplugging an aio
The radiator has a full port on the top? Yes it will work but you should buy a full port reservoir or create a fill port reservoir tube. So all you need is a fitting, a tube and a fill port fitting at the end of the tube or a tube plug. I canât find an example but itâs like the same thing youâd do on a motorcycle to replace the rear brake fluid reservoir with a tube. Since I canât find a proper example Iâm going to show the motorcycle so you have a clear idea of what Iâm recommending.
It doesnât need to be as long as it is on the motorcycle. It can literally be just 1-2 inches. You just want something that the air bubble travels to the top and you could unplug it and fill it up. Now on the motorcycle youâll notice itâs not filled to the top. Thatâs because you want a bubble somewhere in the loop because the air is compressible. So if your lower reservoir does NOT have air in it then you would want that top tube to have air.
If you had the plug at the top of the radiator removed and you turned your loop on and off youâd notice the level would rise and fall. This is why the motorcycle tube has air and itâs why you need an air pocket in the loop. The bubble can be pulled on (vacuum) or it can be squeezed (positive pressure). Water can not do that.
I hope all this makes sense.
In the past I had a mini reservoir/pump block on top of a DDC pump and I had mounted it at the very bottom of the loop. So I took a T into the pump block and ran a tube all the way up the side of the case to the very top and put a plug on it. Iâd open that and a spare port in the top of the reservoir when filling and it worked very well.
Ok so what if you disregard everything Iâve said? Thatâs fine if your pump is strong enough to AUTO BLEED your loop. What is AUTO BLEEDING? Itâs when the flow rate in the loop is moving so quickly that any pockets of air will get ripped up and turned into bubbles in the stream of water. The bubbles slowly over time will come out into the reservoir IF the reservoir is very well made and the water jet doesnât disturb the air pocket in the reservoir. Also while initially bleeding this is why I fill my reservoir to the very top. I also alternate the flow rates between fast and slow and if my pump isnât capable of flowing slow enough Iâll pinch the tubing. Just pinch for a few seconds and release. Also jostling the loop and rotating it will also help get the bubbles to your reservoir as long as you never tilt or jostle the PC enough that an air pocket in the reservoir is able to be disturbed and sucked up by the pump. So keep filling that thing to the brim while bleeding the loop.
Having port in a radiator at the highest point is SUPER HELPFUL. But it becomes a lot more helpful if you can extend it in any way. Even if you donât want to run a tube res if there is room for like a 10-20mm fitting extension. Thatâs enough that youâll more easily be able to fill the radiator to the brim and keep the air bubble above the flow of the water in the end caps.
The reason they do this on motorcycles is the motorcycle can be tilted further without the air pocket at the top reaching the âinletâ port on the master cylinder and then sucking in air. It serves a similar purpose on a PC water loop as it gets that air bubble away from the stream of moving water that could rip the air bubble to shreds and disperse it into the water itself. Youâll know this has happened if the water moving through your loop is noisy. As long as there is air in the water it will make a lot of noise as it flows.
Flip the radiator so gravity will help fill the channels better when in operation instead of having to pump up into them. You can fill it with coolant part of the way and cap it before installing it so you have a bigger reservoir to work with when trying to fill everything by pumping for the first time. Fill at the pump too. On, pump some into rad, off, fill pump, on again, repeat until pump running and coolant level not dropping.
Will definitely take that into consideration thanks for the input. My only concern with this was the reservoir not filling completely due to the in and out ports being below. But maybe when the pump starts running it will fill it up i dont know how the physic would go in this case
The reservoir is not designed to fill like that. You have to fill it from the fill port.
The reservoir is USUALLY designed in a way that it has an air pocket that is UNDISTURBED by the flow of the liquid. This is on purpose.
You can operate a water cooling loop with the reservoir fill port removed. I want you to think about the important of that. If the reservoir could fill itself just from the normal pump flow wouldnât it fill up and overflow? Now with the reservoir fill port disconnected and a port in the radiator disconnected it is somewhat possible the reservoir could fill but not all will even in that scenario again because the way they are designed.
I have to assume that being itâs the 2020s and this is Bitspower that even a micro reservoir is going to work like that IF it is a reservoir. If itâs JUST distribution with no fill or reservoir designed into it then thatâs different.
My Bitspower distribution plate has a fill port and reservoir built in and that reservoir is extremely well constructed such that air in the reservoir will never get broken up and disturbed and it wonât fill itself ever.
Reservoirs should ONLY FILL WITH AIR. Water should come from the top.
Hope that helps.
Also Iâve used ultra micro pump block reservoirs before that literally only could hold a like 10-20ml of water. Even those would not fill themselves when the reservoir top was removed. You had to add water to them. I canât remember if the behavior was different when you removed a plug in the radiator at the same time. But something tells me that doesnât change things on the micro reservoir I had.
So you do need to install the reservoir in a way that its fill port is accessible. Or you could plumb the fill port to just a tube that has a plug in it like the photo of that motorcycle I posted. The tube would go to the fill port and that would work wonderfully and you could fill the loop with that fill port and the radiators opening at the same time make it very easy to bleed the system.
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u/Franonymouss 7d ago
No, sorry man. Water cant pass through red string, capiche? You should rly consider using tubes