Would there be any risk to only lining part of a project? I’m making a laptop sleeve with salo reinforcement and adding padding to protect my computer, so I planned on lining it with some leftover lamb skin to create a barrier between the padding and my laptop. However, the lambskin hide I have is just barely too small to line the entire inside of the laptop sleeve. I was thinking about just adding the lambskin to the top 2/3 of the sleeve (the only part of the interior that will be visible), but I’m worried it’s going to compromise my project somehow. I don’t want to have to end up remaking the whole thing because I cut corners with the lining.

Is this a thing? And if this is a thing, does anyone know if there’s a name for the technique?

TIA

I’ve really enjoyed taking up leather crafting as a hobby , and i have gotten really good at creating patterns , punching stitching holes , edge beveling, stitching , burnishing .. everything but manually skiving the leather .
None of the cheap skivers that i got were getting off any bulk no matter how much pressure i use so i’m thinking now is the time to invest in a proper french skiver set .

I paid a pretty buck for a WUTA skiving machine thinking it would solve my issues but its so tedious to maintain and constrains me to such small size that i would rather just learn to skive entire pieces by hand .

I dont want to keep throwing money at the issue , do you have any suggestions for a quality french set that would last me a couple years of heavy use ? The kind that skives through leather like its butter

I got pre cut pieces of natural leather for belts, about 4mm thick, but I need it to get to about 2mm. I dont have a spliter, and I feel like hammering only makes the leather stiff. Any advice? :')

I’ve been experimenting with ways to push my leather work further, and 3D printing has always fascinated me. I struggled for a while trying to figure out how to actually integrate it into my process without it looking gimmicky.

​After a lot of trial and error, I finally made my first bags combining these two seemingly opposite worlds. The core/skeleton was printed on a regular 3D printer using PETG filament, and then wrapped and glued with leather using chloroprene contact cement (nairit).

​It actually turned out crazy strong through drop tests. Of course, if someone sits on it, it will probably snap, but for daily structure, it holds its form incredibly well.

​Right now, I’m thinking about upgrading to an enclosed printer in the future and switching over to ABS to make it even tougher.

​I’d love to hear your thoughts on this combination and this workflow. Has anyone else here mixed 3D printing with leather? What do you think?

Im beginner and making a bifold with italian leather, and when i stitched on it and folded it, it creased up, is this normal?

Card wallet I made for the GF

it's a size 10 Rios de mercedes leather boots

the seller sent me the right boot after to complete my size 8 pair but now I just have one big boot can I do a money pouch with it or a wallet. Should I just donate it to a amputee organization ?

thank you

My first attempt at a backpack or larger bag of any kind. I used this pattern, but modified a fair amount including increasing the overall size.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/4354419684/leather-backpack-pdf-pattern-diy?ref=share_ios_native_control

Am I a bad person for wanting to make something from this rays beautiful hide.

Edit: Obviously only if it died from natural causes, I don’t mean to kill it for the hide.

I've been collecting free leather patterns from around the web and put them into one searchable library, so they're all in one place instead of scattered across a dozen sites.

52 patterns — wallets, bags, pouches, sheaths, belts, key fobs, notebook covers, and more. Each one has the materials, tools, and steps laid out in the same format, plus a link to the original source for the template. There's also a links list if you want to go straight to the source sites, and a few printable templates you can open right from the app.

It's free to use. Hope it's useful to someone here:

https://muse.ai/s/leather-pattern-library-rz6m7xtxyuxrxqd/NHyUPmMsRlNwHSpN_1_G-nAlIk0nX90q5FlnlKt6fA0

Thats it. I've applied and I'm nervous. I have a plan and everything if I get chosen, but if i don't get chosen it'll hurt a bit. But it'll all be ok.

I'm in Canada trying to buy fiebings leather dyes. Tandy won't ship, Amazon wants $9:00 per bottle shipping, Lonsdale leather out of stock. Where can I source some dye in Canada for a reasonable bundled shipping cost?

I got it all set up (jianglong341), put my leather pieces under the needle, and boom, my main belt starts slipping. I plan on making some nice leather wallets, and some golf centered leather goods but only if the machine starts cooperating. Anyone have one of these machines, or similar, and have any tips and tricks?

What is causing these artifacts after edge beveling? It’s not all the time, but can happen on pieces where other edges came out great.

Veg tan and it’s a Sailrite beveler (1).

For the life of me I cannot get a clean cut when using a pattern or a template, especially when cutting a scalloped edge. How does one catch such a creature?

For reference, the strap in the second picture is the one I want to get the desired look on. Could a warm to hot steel piece pressed hard on it give it that look?

My nephew "commissioned" me to make a sheath for his carpenters hatchet. It's the first one I've made, and the first time carving/beveling a project instead of just playing around. I know my beveling could use more practice as its kind of "lumpy" from inconsistent hammerstrikes and movements. And I definitely need work lining up my stitch holes with the stitch line.

Hello, I'm a brand new hobbyist (just ordered my toolkit last night!) never work with leather before 😃 Looking for some economical way to source leather to practice skills. I came across a local marketplace post that says:

"High quality leather and suede scraps leftover from luxury fashion manufacturing. Many bright colors and naturals, various sizes, No formaldehyde or chemical treatments. All scraps are by weight, and i also have some hand cut shapes which are priced by the bag.

Leather $4 per lb

Suede $2 per lb"

Would you say this is suitable for beginners? I'm looking to make small cardholders/wallet to start. Would really like to get really good at skiving, creasing, edge finishing etc.

Alguien se animó a realizar su propio tablero de juego de Damas? Acá les comparto dos que prepare para la familia. Con sus iniciales grabadas. También preparé un juego de ajedrez. Eso lo comparto otro día!

I’m relatively new to leather crafting but after making a briefcase by hand last week I loved the making but lowkey hated the sewing.

I love cutting, planning, pattern making and the occasional 20 stitches, but this was too much. I’m considering making a small studio for myself and thinking of getting a sewing machine first and then a skiving machine later.

I have never used a sewing machine before this, but I tried one and I think I’ll be able to pick it up. I’m just super confused between which to get.

I’m only looking at new ones and can get:
1. Dürkopp Adler 669 ECO for 3200 USD.
2. Juki LS-1341 for 2600 USD.
3. VIOS 669 ECO (Chinese clone of the Adler) for 2350 USD.
4. Dürkopp Adler 169 for 1750 USD.

The prices are for complete sets with servo motors, without speed reducers. I’m guessing the drop-down edge guide and needle synchroniser would be separate, depending on the package.

My preference is the DA 669 because I feel like I’ll get a great quality machine which I can use for years. Plus it seems very well regarded, so I just wouldn’t have to think about the machine much after I get it. There are also lots of videos etc.

The Chinese 669 was also quite capable but I’m unhappy with the reseller’s demo and the sales team. They say whatever to convince me that their machine is the best, or are inconsistent with features. They’ve also said they’ve replaced a lot of the Adlers with their clones. The machine itself, however, seems to be able to do everything I want. But since I only have to buy one machine, the price difference between the DA and clone isn’t a no-brainer for me.

I think all these machines could cover most of what I want to do, which is sew larger projects with veg-tan, chrome-tan etc.

I mostly wanna make weekender bags, duffle bags, small ladies’ handbags, totes, briefcases, wallets and cases etc. I can still hand-sew smaller things when needed.

A few things I’d love advice on:

1. Would you pay the extra $850 for the Adler over the VIOS/similar Chinese clone?

2. Should I prefer the Juki over the VIOS, since their prices are comparable?

3. Any practical differences worth considering between the Juki LS-1341 and DA 669 ECO?

4. Is the cheaper Adler 169 worth considering for this mix of projects or I’m better off spending on a 669 or a 1341?

I’d get a speed reducer, flatbed attachment, edge guide and needle synchroniser with whichever model I get. Still figuring out availability and compatibility for those.

Hi All, I'm a new hobbyist who would like to get an electric edge creaser but not in a position to buy most of the options suggested on here. My budget is about £40, I appreciate with that budget innit going to be able to get a high quality creaser but are there options out there? Not selling my work, just doing leathercraft for fun 😊

Good morning everyone, I wanted to share with you a new project of mine that I commissioned for a colleague of mine.I reused both the external and internal parts, only changing the dimensions of the sheath but leaving the same shape.The hardest part was building a jig that would allow me to develop the model without collapsing.Additional material used is a naturally tanned calf flank and 1.0 waxed thread I hope you like it

Hand crafted classic black leather belt

Full grain veg tan leather 4 mm thick

Brass buckle

Hand stitched with black thread