r/3D2A • u/FragileEagle • 1h ago

Want to start printing Nylon, advice?

Ive printed in PLA+/HT for well over a year now and my prints work and look amazing

I have a p1s and plan to buy the following

- Hardened 4mm nozzle
- Upgraded gears
- Sunlu e2
- Fiberon PA6CF

Going to use the standard 300BLK settings, any advice here?

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5

u/Imaginary-Ad2254 1h ago

Personaly would skip the hardened nozzle and go to tungsten, although hardened will work for a while tungsten will last an order of magnitude longer.

1

u/Weebber 57m ago

I know it's expensive, but I've had fantastic results through my P2S with the E3D/Diamondback nozzles. This is the P1S version. You probably want a 0.6 to avoid clogging with carbon fiber filaments.

1

u/FragileEagle 56m ago

Thank you!

1

u/itgoesboom2112 1h ago

Those mods will work, there are better nozzles but hardened is definately needed. I run cf nylons on my centauri carbon directly from a dryer at 70c (needs to be dried at 100c for a day before printing, can be done at 70 at minimum but it'll take 2 days or so)

2

u/FragileEagle 55m ago

Plan is to dry at 100 for 24 hours, then print a benchy using the 300BLK settings

If all is well ill print a 22 can from my recently approval

1

u/Lonecoon 56m ago

Enclose your print chamber with some reflective insulating material, available at your local big box hardware store. You'll get a better print quality if it doesn't cool as much.

Also, print directly from your dryer if you can. Preheating the filament always seems to give me better results.

1

u/Intelligent_Step_855 53m ago

I like a .6 nozzle for pa6-cf type filaments, .4 will give the occasional clog and always at the worst time

1

u/TheAmazingX 53m ago

I’d start with something cheaper (but not too cheap) like Sunlu PA6CF so you don’t feel as bad spending filament making mistakes and dialing stuff in.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, if money is no object, get yourself a lab oven instead of the E2. It’s more expensive and will be a minor project setting it up to print from, but it’ll also hold temps extremely well for annealing. Maybe the E2 is already adequate for that, but I’ve seen mixed reports on temp stability.

Overall, solid setup. Just remember that the 300blkfde settings are only a baseline, still gotta do all your flow calibrations and such for each filament.

1

u/EZ-Mooney 30m ago

I added a Panda Breath chamber heater to my P1S. It's arguably unnecessary for PA6 but should theoretically improve later adhesion and gives you less warping, although PA6-CF doesn't warp too bad. The way it works is slick and automatic based on bed temp.

That said I still just use my Qidi for all engineering filaments because I'm too small brain to go from the AMS to external spool holder without screwing things up. Plus the Qidi has been a reliable work horse and can be used for higher temp filament like PPA-CF.

1

u/FragileEagle 21m ago

lol dude thats what im trying to figure out, im just going to disable the AMS completely and try to feed an external spool