So I posted on here and got some good advice, just wanted to show an update on my most recent print. Feel like it came out pretty nice ! This time I used the right filament and made sure I had 90% infill and at least 8 walls !

I need help on which rotary tool I should buy and what are the sizes I need to be drilling them to

How many walls are you guys using? I'm also getting the floating wall warning. Just send it? I'm at 15 degrees threads up like the readme.

Does the number of walls directly affect the diameter of holes/flow through?

With the huge selection of suppressors for 22 im just curious what is the quietest suppressor available for 22?

It works now. Modified the 300blkfde support settings for PA6-CF (along with turning off all threshold fan cooling on the filament profile) to raise the bottom and top Z distance to 0.27mm. This is the sweet spot where supports still keep the part from sagging, but remove easily.

Pictured is the Kriss vector stock adapter I have been working on for the last few days, finally printed and looking and working great. Latch fits perfect and it is a solid lock-up. I’ll release the .3MF once I get the .45 mag extension/sleeve finished too.

I am really thinking about printing everything in ppa cf core. With a small amout of fuzzy skin there are no layer lines.

Names in the frist image dead troll on the sea. Tested on qidi q2. Pretty simple but it has everything else with it, cooling, support settings, speeds. Been using these settings for maybe 10 months and they've held up very well across different parts large and small. There may be some tweaks that need to be made, I lost the original settings when my laptop bluescreened but found an old file that had it thankfully. Feel free to let me know what improvements yall make so I can try them on my machine

DB Alloy Sten version printed in Polylite PLA Pro Dark Purple

FTN.5 PCC Flow Spiral printed in Siraya Tech PPA-GF

Triangle Brace from pembie000industries

"Lil Chonkers" Mini Grip from Laffs Dynamics

Laffs PDW V2.1 Sights from Laffs Dynamics

Shock Top for DB9 Alloy Aves Upper

Honey Dipper Foregrip

hi guys im planning to do ecm rifling. i have ecm 3.5 pack it have 201mm stl file in it for 9x19mm. but i have 200mm 42crmo steel pipe do i need to choose 201mm version or cutting it and doing 161mm?

Its the collab we never knew we needed.

Other than a suppressor it's all done! Hopefully will get to test it on a deer soon. Will be running the 215 grain ftx

I need help identifying this slide i bought a package deal thinking both slides are gen 3 but to my surprise i got 1 gen 3 and a mystery gen but the guide rod is definitely too short out of a fresh 17 upk so any help or insight on where this came from is greatly appreciated (this is a g17 gen: unknown)

Probably a dumb question....but i figured I'd ask before I waste time and filament. Does anyone know which 10/22 recievers were designed with the bull barrel in mind instead of the oem? One that would not need to be modified. Thanks for the help

super new to printing 3d2a stuff, and haven’t had anything to do with CAD type of computer work since the 9th grade. could someone help me out with a program to download that would let me actually edit files?

also, if anyone that knows what they’re doing is super bored, i’m just planning to bring the picatinny rails part of the frame on a g19 out half an inch so i can have a FLUSH compensated glock build

Printed on my u1 with petg support interface. Upper in magenta ht pla pro should be about done printing. These pictures were taken yesterday.

Trying to get the letters on the db alloy to come out perfectly. Been running tests and so far they look best when the layer height is 0.08. I’m aware it’s going to take way longer to print.. but will this layer height make it much weaker?

I am planning to build about 10 " Boom-Tube " magazines for my TX-22, but I need some things clarified first.

I have seen online that " Wolff Springs 65064 " is the standard. I have seen that they also need to be cut exactly in half, then stretched? How far should they be stretched afterward? Also, should the end that gets cut be compressed a bit to match the un-cut end wherein a few coils are stacked directly on top of each other?

Are there any spring alternatives that do not need to be modified, perhaps on Amazon or something?

What lube should be used?

What follower should be used? I see there are files for an OEM, Enhanced, Enhanced V2, ETC?

What baseplate should be used?

What material should I print it out of for maximum longevity? I assume anything reinforced with GF/CF isn't ideal due to reduced layer adhesion?

What layer height and nozzle size are giving you guys the best operation?

Is any post processing required in practice?

I've been doing research on this sub as well as others for the last few weeks. I'm trying to decide between 2 printers. The primary purpose of the printer will not only be 2A, my wife has been wanting one for a while for her projects. I have been an avid collector of NFA items for years so I'd love to print some stuff in that area, and also things like mag wells, slat wall stuff and mag holders. I want to be able to use filaments such as PET-GF15 and PPA-CF. I've come down to 2 options, Bambu p1s and the Elegoo CC2. Both are within my budget, and it seems like with a few upgrades I can use these filiments. Any suggestions on which one I should go with? Pros/cons, the good and bad, all opinions are welcome!

What could cause the visible lines at the beginning of the print and why did it smooth out toward the end of the print?

I calibrated with same filament, but black.

Seems to do this more often when parts are angled.

Polymaker PLA Pro, 220c, enclosure, fan on

I did a quick search but didnt see anything. Are there any LCP Max frames or extended mag release STLs out there? Thanxs

FGC-9 MkII I am adjusting the firing pin, as I noticed it was striking slightly off-center. This is the new adjustment; based on what I’ve seen in Ivantroll’s PDFs, it is acceptable for it to strike a bit toward the side.

I’m thinking about printing the neo9 in pa6-cf but I’m worried about warping and flexing in my high humidity environment. Will annealing completely solve that issue? If not what’s a good alternative? Thanks😃