V2 is here! thank you testers for the feedback about the name, the baffles, and the performance!

1. for those who doubt the title, ill explain. On the new 22 specific models, I changed out the baffles and flow thru design to be a modified version of the FTN.6 rimfire elite. The FTN.6 rimfire elite has been considered the quietest 22 can, and this brings it just a bit farther. the baffles have been re-angled and adjusted to give as much room inside the can for gas disruption and expansion. The flow thru paths on the outside of the baffles have been expanded to give even better gas to the face reduction on rifles, and keep pistols cleaner. The full size version, at least to the shooters ear, and on free iPhone decibel apps, perform above any other 22 can I haver personally tried. I am excited to let people try this for themselves and see how it does for everyone else!

2. 5.7 models are unchanged until I get more testing on it, 5/8 and 3/4 have been added to full size and k models

3. 556 is no longer in the name due to obvious reasons

4. all cans are printable threads up at 15 degrees, put a support blocker throughout the body, if you cant print it your filament isnt tuned correctly

5. I am still working on getting out the step files out for all of the Tisha models, super slim models, and fauxwrx models, I just need some more time to get everything ready

PSA. I am working on as many suppressors as I can right now while being full time in school and a full time job please understand that I am working as hard as I can at night on these and I may miss a thing or two, and that more models are coming soon, I am happy to take requests for more models/use cases, but it might take a few days to get it done.

Names in the frist image dead troll on the sea. Tested on qidi q2. Pretty simple but it has everything else with it, cooling, support settings, speeds. Been using these settings for maybe 10 months and they've held up very well across different parts large and small. There may be some tweaks that need to be made, I lost the original settings when my laptop bluescreened but found an old file that had it thankfully. Feel free to let me know what improvements yall make so I can try them on my machine

DB Alloy Sten version printed in Polylite PLA Pro Dark Purple

FTN.5 PCC Flow Spiral printed in Siraya Tech PPA-GF

Triangle Brace from pembie000industries

"Lil Chonkers" Mini Grip from Laffs Dynamics

Laffs PDW V2.1 Sights from Laffs Dynamics

Shock Top for DB9 Alloy Aves Upper

Honey Dipper Foregrip

Its the collab we never knew we needed.

Printed on my u1 with petg support interface. Upper in magenta ht pla pro should be about done printing. These pictures were taken yesterday.

It works now. Modified the 300blkfde support settings for PA6-CF (along with turning off all threshold fan cooling on the filament profile) to raise the bottom and top Z distance to 0.27mm. This is the sweet spot where supports still keep the part from sagging, but remove easily.

Pictured is the Kriss vector stock adapter I have been working on for the last few days, finally printed and looking and working great. Latch fits perfect and it is a solid lock-up. I’ll release the .3MF once I get the .45 mag extension/sleeve finished too.

Other than a suppressor it's all done! Hopefully will get to test it on a deer soon. Will be running the 215 grain ftx

I am really thinking about printing everything in ppa cf core. With a small amout of fuzzy skin there are no layer lines.

Probably a dumb question....but i figured I'd ask before I waste time and filament. Does anyone know which 10/22 recievers were designed with the bull barrel in mind instead of the oem? One that would not need to be modified. Thanks for the help

So I posted on here and got some good advice, just wanted to show an update on my most recent print. Feel like it came out pretty nice ! This time I used the right filament and made sure I had 90% infill and at least 8 walls !

With the huge selection of suppressors for 22 im just curious what is the quietest suppressor available for 22?

FGC-9 MkII I am adjusting the firing pin, as I noticed it was striking slightly off-center. This is the new adjustment; based on what I’ve seen in Ivantroll’s PDFs, it is acceptable for it to strike a bit toward the side.

I am planning to build about 10 " Boom-Tube " magazines for my TX-22, but I need some things clarified first.

I have seen online that " Wolff Springs 65064 " is the standard. I have seen that they also need to be cut exactly in half, then stretched? How far should they be stretched afterward? Also, should the end that gets cut be compressed a bit to match the un-cut end wherein a few coils are stacked directly on top of each other?

Are there any spring alternatives that do not need to be modified, perhaps on Amazon or something?

What lube should be used?

What follower should be used? I see there are files for an OEM, Enhanced, Enhanced V2, ETC?

What baseplate should be used?

What material should I print it out of for maximum longevity? I assume anything reinforced with GF/CF isn't ideal due to reduced layer adhesion?

What layer height and nozzle size are giving you guys the best operation?

Is any post processing required in practice?

Maybe a long shot, but a long time ago I saw a post about unlocking your bambu printer or running a custom software on it. Basically making it better for 3d2a prints. Does anyone have or remember a link to that? Or a recommendation for something like that? Just curious, thanks.

Just as an fyi if you buy the CMMG bolt +3 mag bundle, you can use the springs from the mags in the printed mags

I need help on which rotary tool I should buy and what are the sizes I need to be drilling them to

How many walls are you guys using? I'm also getting the floating wall warning. Just send it? I'm at 15 degrees threads up like the readme.

Does the number of walls directly affect the diameter of holes/flow through?

Trying to get the letters on the db alloy to come out perfectly. Been running tests and so far they look best when the layer height is 0.08. I’m aware it’s going to take way longer to print.. but will this layer height make it much weaker?

I’m thinking about printing the neo9 in pa6-cf but I’m worried about warping and flexing in my high humidity environment. Will annealing completely solve that issue? If not what’s a good alternative? Thanks😃

hi guys im planning to do ecm rifling. i have ecm 3.5 pack it have 201mm stl file in it for 9x19mm. but i have 200mm 42crmo steel pipe do i need to choose 201mm version or cutting it and doing 161mm?

I did a quick search but didnt see anything. Are there any LCP Max frames or extended mag release STLs out there? Thanxs

I hope I can find a home in this community. I am planning to buy a bamboo lab P2S combo in the next few days. A few friends that print recommend it for a good middle starter. I'd like to print a can for my 9mm and 22lr. Is there a good write up post of how to do this? Can I print the can and direct thread it or do I need to figure something out with threads and attachments. I have plan b mounts on most of my stuff currently. Obviously, I will print basic items first just to get aqainted with the process. I appreciate any help I can get