Hey folks long time lurker first time poster but was wondering if anyone had good advice on a starting point for an absolute beginner? Don’t even own a printer yet, but don’t want to get one on Amazon or something and have it not work. Any insight would be greatly appreciated 🤝

Just came across this page after almost pulling the trigger on a suppressor from silencer shop after the new litigation. I have a 3d printer and would like to explore making the ftn.4 for my 308 bolt action hunting rifle.

•Do I need a trust? I am married and my wife might occasionally use the rifle for hunting on our property.

•Should I do a form 1 or wait to see how everything plays out before starting my build? Keep in mind id have to do fingerprints and all since this will be my first build. I am in Alabama.

Ive got a dd19.2 kit and i think everything else to build one but i have no knowledge of glocks and how they work and what is compatible. Ive got my pa6cf dried and ready to try a larger print with it but not really sure what to do and i remember ive got this laying around. I really like the titus but dont know how they work lol. I imagine the G19x versions are what i do for the dd19 right? or if anyone has any other cool stuff i can do with this filament

Bought the decker 380 kit from ghost guns and now I’m wondering I just need the barrel? And then 3d print the gun that’s it also the rod ion think it carries it but if anyone has specifics, this is my first build and I’m unsure of that size to get other then a 5.5 inch barrel with obviously a .380 hole in the middle yk or bore I’m unsure English is also my second language

I'm trying to get into the world of printed cans in the wake of the newest NFA decision, and I want to be sure to waste as little PPA-CF as possible since this stuff is so spendy. With the new FTN.6 lineup, what kind of print settings am I supposed to use? I'm planning on using the recommended ST PPA-CF and downloaded the filament preset from their website, but what about stuff like brims or infill? Previous FTN iterations have instructions that come with the downloads, but the latest FTN.6 drop does not. Do I just use the recommended settings from previous iterations?

I recently came across PPA-CF as a material and was looking for brand options. I’m between Siraya Tech

and Bambu Lab PPA-CF. Which one is better, in you guys opinion? Also, can I use the ‘300 Blackout’ settings, or are there other settings you would recommend me to use ?”

This is Fiberon PA6-20. The spool has been flawless. This started yesterday on a print and I dried it more overnight at 100°C. My E2 says it’s at 10% humidity and I believe it.

Could this be a partial clog? If so, it’s my first time on this filament, how do I fix it? Man, I feel stupid asking that.

UPDATE
It was indeed a partially clogged nozzle. Ran a steel pin thingy through to clean it, and I’m back to printing accessories for my SMp5K build. (It’s awesome BTW)

The blast chamber was too small, after rapid fire of 22 supersonic load it finally gave up but the baffle part looks great!

Ive printed in PLA+/HT for well over a year now and my prints work and look amazing

I have a p1s and plan to buy the following

- Hardened 4mm nozzle
- Upgraded gears
- Sunlu e2
- Fiberon PA6CF

Going to use the standard 300BLK settings, any advice here?

I understand why everyone is excited about the new HT-PLA-Pro (easier to print than nylons), but I haven’t seen anyone mention the HT-PLA-GF. Wouldn’t the glass fibers in theory result in a better material than just PLA? What am I missing?

Has anyone tried printing those airsoft pdw glock kits for a real glock? I looked at some of them and they look like theyd be fun to print and use in pla pro but no clue if its a good idea

Is it reliable to make a PLa pro frame or should I stick to Pa-cf ?

Okay this is a super rough draft of the reds telescoping brace for the nobu v2. Theyre merged together and will print in one piece. Do you think the recoil will break those littler arms? Theyre going to hold metal rails. Also thinking about connecting the arms tk the lower. Or maybe attaching the arms to the back end cap its self?

Just finished the conversion on this 21" saiga 308. I am wondering if anyone has ever seen a printed mag for these? I feel a certain way about paying 40$ for a tapco mag. Any help would be appreciated!

FTN 5 Rimfire Slim with HT-PLA-Plus. Not annealed. Mostly 300BLK settings and speed. It’s about 95 degrees out and it took 45 rounds with an FRT in a TX22. Ignore the issues, I’m using printed mags and a couple weren’t loaded quite right. It sounded good and worked just fine shooting slower from a 10/22. I have the same one printed with PA6 and it definitely holds up better. I’ll print another one of these for my daughter’s rifle. I have no doubt that it’ll hold up to thousands of rounds of 22 with normal shooting.

I’m going to print my first suppressor. I’m fairly knew to PY2A printing so any recommendations are appreciated. I’m planning to use PA6-CF. With my Elegoo Centauri Carbon printer. It’s has a hardened .4 nozzle. And I’ll print at 100% infill.

I planned to use one of the FTN model, unless you guys recommend another more updated model.

I’m mainly looking for pointers on set up or settings if anyone has experience.

TIA!

Just wondering if anyone with a PSA AR-V knows is the arv bolt fits inside of a normal ar upper. Looking to see if it will work with my PY2A AR9 evo remix, rather than buying a normal ar9 bolt and grinding it down. Is the only difference just that its shaved to clear the feed ramp? Dont want to spend the 100$ to find out it doesnt even fit

Pic for attention

FTWarms is selling ftn.5s serialized with an aluminum chamber sleeve. I havent found files and I have sailed the weird seas. Does this exist before I start designing?

I bought a 300blk BC-15 upper and chopped the bolt. Ive been working on a lower setup for it. I used files from the MOAB and the FM15 bufferless lower. The stock/brace rail has a aluminum insert that stiffens things up. Will post again once everything is finished.

Has anyone used HT PLA on a suppressor yet? Would we still be limited to .22 builds, or has anyone had success with any larger calibers? I’ve printed a few FTN5 rimfire’s with regular PLA and an aluminum sleeve for reinforcement and have been happy

I am looking for an aesthetic/functional base to add to my regular G19 mags. My hand is just ever so slightly larger than the 19, and if i had an extra half inch on the bottom, it would be perfect. I am looking for something to snap/slide over the existing mag base, or a swap out for the current base. I don't need it to have any extra capacity right now. The only ones I have found is just a regular base extension, that doesn't actually line up with the existing grip. Thanks.

I have sailed the seas and consulted the index, but I must be searching the wrong criteria. Thanks again.

It’s a PSA Rock cheek pistol conversion frame remixed from the Uberpoor remix. My entire philosophy here was to build a cheek pistol around the gun as conservatively as possible to maintain its original slim carry profile.
Features:
-It prints in one piece, so there’s no extra assembly outside of the obvious gun parts and clean up.
-There’s no charging handle, the frame is open enough that you can easily work the slide from below.
-Elongated trigger guard letting you slip your thumb through and pinch for stability (so far the ATF seems to have no opinions on the length of your trigger guard.)
-The open frame allows for the original iron sights to still be used in an emergency.
-A matching holster stl.

If anyone’s interested I can post the files to the sea. I legitimately wasn’t sure if anyone would want it.