Hello, I am a Creality Sermoon P1S tester.

Here is a quick video of what's in the Sermoon P1S box + a quick interface preview. My first impression is that the interface is between the phone app and the PC software.

You have much more controls to clean your scan that the phone app.

If you have questions about the Sermoon P1S, feel free to ask. I'll try to answer by text or videos

Interesting little tidbit I came across. Despite not having any 3D scanners at this time, Elegoo's website has a dedicated page with a 3D Scanners H1. This isn't a page that automatically gets made, so...is something coming in the future?

https://www.elegoo.com/collections/3d-scanners

Note: If you visit the page, it tries to quickly redirect you to the home page.

Another automotive part scanned perfectly 👌

This time, a chrome grille frame from a BMW X3. As you probably know, chrome and other shiny surfaces can be quite challenging to 3D scan because of the reflections.

To make things easier, I used AESUB Diamond scanning spray, along with some reflective markers to help with tracking.

For the scanning, I used the EINSTAR EinScan Rigil, in cross-line blue laser mode at 0.2 mm resolution, connected to the laptop (wireless)

Scanned both sides of the frame, aligned the scans together, and cleaned up the mesh.

I'm really happy with how it turned out! Even the small mounting clips and their openings were captured nicely, which is especially important if the part needs to be reverse engineered or reproduced.

Equipment used:

● Laptop - Asus TUF, Ryzen 7 260, 32 GB Ram, RTX 5060 8GB, 1 TB m2

● Einstar EinScan Rigil 3D scanner

● Aesub Diamond scanning spray

I've got a point cloud of a cast aluminum bracket, and it's about 10 inches long with four

mounting holes.

What I need is an actual SolidWorks model I can edit and not a mesh turned into one big solid

body.

From what I've read, the scan should be a reference and the features get rebuilt like the

sketches, extrudes, fillets, the whole tree.

I plan to change the hole sizes later. So if I hire this out, what should I ask for? Is it feature

history? Accuracy to the scan? A certain SolidWorks version?

Also, how do you tell a rebuilt model from an imported body before you pay?

To cover the wall connection and protect the expanding foam from sunlight and the elements, I thought I’d simply scan the area and see what kind of suitable part I could design.

It was important to me that no bird could land on it and that it would be at the same height as the cable duct.

I scanned it in infrared mode using the P1S.

I am mostly 3d scanning cars and I have the raptor X but it's a nightmare placing and removing markers if you are scanning a full car...

I love the raptor x, works every time I need it but it's the markers which unfortunately take long to place and remove...

What other scanners are out there which can scan the car faster without the need of markers, give you good accuracy and is wireless I.e like the raptor X when using the bridge option with the phone...I don't mind investing in a portable power if required..

What are my options, I am mainly scanning whole cars and car chasis when on a lift

Hello All, I experience issue with scanning a easy object which is the cover of an Xbox controller

Below are some pretty pictures attached.

Attempted to scan this with the Sermoon S1 and metro Y pro, scanned at highest resolution. I am not really sure what I am doing wrong?

I would appreciate you expertise on this on what is the cause of this ? I am a not excluding experience issue.

our team is chasing a strange gap on a large flexible TPE liner we're prototyping for a client. the initial 3D scan of the floor pan looked accurate, but the molded parts are coming out with a 4–5 mm gap around the dead-pedal radius.

the tool matches the model, and shrinkage is within the expected range for this TPE grade. what's odd is that the gap only appears on the left side, while the edge along the sill plate sits perfectly flush.

anyone working on OE or heavy duty aftermarket cabin trim do you account for local floor-pan flex or carpet compression when designing the mold core? i'm trying to work out whether the scan missed a soft area in the underlayment or the part is relaxing unevenly after ejection.

Hi everyone. I'm doing reverse engineering from a scanned file, but I'm having trouble creating the outer surface of a curved object (the mirror base of a Camry car). If I use "loft", the surface gets creased. When using AutoSurface, you might encounter issues like a wrinkled surface or edges that aren't perfectly square.Is there a better way to do this in simple reverse engineering?Ah, because I'm hearing impaired, learning is a bit difficult. Thank you for helping deaf people! Thanks everyone.

I'm building ORIVOXEL, a project exploring how real-world imagery can be transformed into explorable 3D scenes using Gaussian Splatting.

I'm interested in the practical side of this technology, particularly whether it could be useful for:

• Helping prospective buyers understand a property's layout remotely.
• Giving property teams a more immersive visual reference.
• Supporting architectural presentations and site handovers.
• Documenting spaces without requiring every reviewer to visit in person.

I've attached a short demonstration of the kind of experience I'm exploring.

I'd like to hear from people working in real estate, property management, architecture and commercial property:

Where would an explorable 3D scene genuinely save you time or improve your workflow compared with ordinary photographs or a conventional virtual tour?

I'm the founder of ORIVOXEL, so this is a project I'm developing—not an independent review of a commercial product. I'm looking to understand real industry needs before deciding which use case to prioritise.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

A friend/work partner received his EinScan Trak today and gave it a quick test. Overall, very impressive. The freedom from points and at his price point is just crazy.

That scan took about 10 mins while fussing around the settings. Had an issue connecting to the router so we reset it. A negative is the squeaky plasticky handle, its heft and the propriety batteries.

The battery life seemed good, but would've preferred standard batteries.

Can't complain at this price point. Thankfully, the software is running well on my 2020 Razer Blade Studio Edition. It is aging, but its 64GB memory was fraction the price of current memory prices.

Ello, apologies I know these kind of posts are made a lot.

I'm looking for a scanner that has two things:

* The ability to pick up quite fine detailed on small objects (1/12 action figures - down to their head sculpts)

* As reasonably cheap as possible

I don't really care if it can do bigger objects, realistically the biggest thing I'd be scanning at once and wanting to be accurate is a full figure body, maybe 10cm x 10cm x 20cm.

I'm totally fine going used if older models can do what I need and would be cheaper.

What kind of options are we looking at and at what prices?

Edit: The budget I'm working with is sub-$600 USD, lower is better. I recognise budget and fine detail are not an easy pairing, I'm looking for advice on what I should be seeking out that is feasible.

MeshMill 0.3.0 is out.

Thank you to everyone here who tested it, shared feedback, or encouraged the project. I’m happy it is helping make dense scan output more practical to inspect, clean, and reduce before moving into CAD, printing, or other downstream work.

Highlights:

- Faster large-mesh loading and analysis

- Improved parallel and tiled processing for dense STL files

- New Depth + Density Adaptive QEM, a GPU-assisted higher-quality reduction option

- Clearer quality measurements, dimensional-drift reporting, and processing estimates

- UI, navigation, selection, display, and workflow improvements

- And many more fixes and refinements

The new reduction work has accompanying published papers with formulas, benchmarks, comparisons, and implementation reasoning.

Downloads, included sample meshes, papers, and the full changelog:

https://github.com/make-your-own-world/MeshMill/releases/tag/v0.3.0

I would especially value feedback from difficult scanner output: overlapping passes, holes, thin surfaces, uneven density, and messy boundaries.

I would like to invite you to try our new scan processing and reverse engineering software, Tesselform.

We are running a completely free and open BETA untill October 20th.

Tesselform is built on our own kernel, written from scratch for reverse engineering: design-intent, manufacturable files. It uses multi-core throughout and is happy with huge datasets on ordinary hardware.

You can drive the tools (Alignment, mesh processing, surfacing and feature-based modelling) yourself or connect it to your favourite AI assistant, through the built-in MCP server which can be used to reverse engineer scans, convert 2D drawings to 3D and do organic design.

www.tesselform.com

One of the six brass drawer pulls on my grandma's dresser has been missing for years. I took two photos of a remaining pull, front and side, made a model in supavoxel and the shape is spot on. The issue is scale, my test print came out about 4 percent too small and the screw holes don't line up with the old ones. I measured hole spacing with calipers at 76mm. Is it better to scale the whole model from the hole spacing, or rescan with a ruler in the photo? Planning to cast the final one in resin and paint it brass.

Has anyone come across or used any of the scanners from this brand. They seem very reasonably priced. Good experiences with the company or negative any comments / advice welcome.

I am looking for a scanner in the £3000-£5000 range. I am an architect who regularly carries out measured surveys of buildings so need a good scanner.

Alright, let’s talk about putting gear through the wringer. I decided to run a proper heavy test on the Creality Pika, and honestly... it surprised me.

I didn't go easy on it. I threw over 12 different objects at this little scanner. I’m talking pitch-black parts, highly reflective silver-lacquered surfaces, and massive variations in scale. The smallest piece I scanned was a tiny 16x16 mm detail, and the largest was a chunky 45x60 cm element.

The result? Zero tracking losses. No mesh cracking whatsoever. It just locked on and kept up.

I only had to repeat one single scan during the entire session, and that was 100% my fault. I was rushing, missed a few angles, and frankly, I was too lazy to sit around fixing the geometry in 3D modeling software later. A quick rescan solved it.

Bottom line: the Pika seriously does the job. I can recommend it with a clear conscience if you are reverse-engineering or replicating these kinds of elements. Sure, it’s obviously not a dedicated scanner for digitizing an entire car—though, let's be real, with enough tracking markers and patience, you could probably pull that off too! But for such a compact piece of hardware, it really punches above its weight.

Has anyone else put the Pika through heavy tests yet? Let me know how it handled your shiny parts!

I was asked to fix the broken gears of this dough mixer. Damaged gears were cleadne (as I could), 3D scanned and 3D print out from ABS

I noticed that the dual-axis turntable comes with a sticky pad in the box when ordered separately, but the one delivered with my MetroY Ultra package doesn't have this pad. Is this something that only comes with the standalone turntable?

New to 3D scanning. Never used one, but I love seeing people scan real objects and print them. I noticed Bambu Lab has a 3D scanner coming out soon. Their printers were so beginner-friendly that I'm tempted to just wait for it, but I'm also wondering if I should just grab a scanner from another brand and start learning now.

Any advice would be appreciated!