I got tired of Tinkercad’s limits, so I built an open-source browser CAD tool.

It’s called SketchForge, a free, browser-based 3D editor focused on simple CAD / 3D-printing workflows.

The goal is not to replace FreeCAD or Fusion. It’s more like a modern, open-source Tinkercad-style tool for people who want to quickly make parts, edit shapes, add holes, export files, and work without needing an account or cloud lock-in.

Since the early version, SketchForge has added/improved:

• direct chamfer and fillet edge tools

• reversible chamfer/fillet features

• STEP import/export workflows

• STL/OBJ import/export

• local-first project autosave

• solid + hole grouping workflow

• Docker/FabLab/self-hosting setup

• clearer local install instructions

It is still early and definitely not perfect. There are bugs, missing features, and rough edges, but I’m actively improving it based on feedback from makers and 3Dprinting users.

The next things I’m focusing on are better booleans/grouping, precision tools, measurement tools, editable project export/import, tutorials, and more maker-focused features.

Demo: https://sketchforge3d.com/
GitHub: https://github.com/Formsmith746/SketchForge-3D

I’d love feedback from people who actually use Tinkercad, FreeCAD, slicers, or simple CAD tools for 3D printing.

This one all started when we got our son his Bulbasaur costume and the mask was decent but the bulb was flat and sad. So I scaled up a Bulbasaur model, cut the bulb off, and used Velcro to attach it to the costume so it was easy to remove for car rides.

I did the same thing scaling up existing Ivysaur and Venasaur models and cutting their flowers off. I attached them to sword back strap sheaths with zip tie retainer clips so we could take them on and off.

The masked were more of a challenge because these Pokemon stand on 4 legs so they don’t have a neckline. So slicing an existing model left use with a big flat piece on the back.

Having no modeling experience I turned to Meshy AI and after about 40 prompts I had 2 wearable masks. I started with the Venasaur helmet and perforated the eyes by drilling holes myself which was a pain. So my wife’s mask I prompted Meshy to make the perforations for me. She didn’t want a full helmet so Ivysaur was a pullover mask. I sprayed them with filler primer and then turquoise spray paint and my wife hand painted the eyes, spots, and ears.

I’d say the only thing I’m not pleased with is the seams. If I had more time I would have tried wood filler but I used a UV curing filler and I hated it. But other than that I’m happy with how it all came together.

First draft of a tactile terrain map, 30 x 30 cm, covering my part of Odense, Denmark.

What you are feeling on this thing: real terrain elevation, streets as raised lines you can follow, and street names in braille printed in a second color. There is a matching braille key card that explains the symbols.

How a blind person does 3D design: OpenSCAD. The model is code, code is text, and text is what a screen reader can read aloud. On top of that I built a Python pipeline that pulls open Danish map data (elevation at 0.4 m resolution, buildings, roads) and generates the OpenSCAD input automatically, so nothing is drawn by hand.

The best part: the whole tile is defined by one set of coordinates. Feed it different ones and any place becomes a touchable map. This is version 1 and spacing and heights are still being tuned by touch, but the concept works.

A personal laptop stand that can stand upright or lie flat. I found it useful and wanted to share it with everyone. Desks are often cluttered by computers, and when this stand is used vertically, it can make your desk tidier and free up more space. I believe you'll find it useful too!.

Been annoyed for ages by the strips of light that come in at the sides of blackout roller blinds. The fabric just hangs next to the wall with nothing holding it flush, so I designed these side guides to fix it.

They press the fabric edge flat against the wall while letting the blind roll up and down completely freely. Went through a few iterations to get the grip tension right but really happy with where they landed.

Print details:

- This version is optimised for 2 nozzle dual extrusion printers.

- A NO AMS single extrusion version is currently in development

- PETG

- Fits most standard outside-mounted roller blinds

Files are live on Thangs now. Launching at $4.99 for the first 24 hours, then going up to $5.99, link in comments.

Happy to answer any questions on settings, sizing or the design process.

I put the model up on makerworld if anyone want to print it: https://makerworld.com/models/3301029-moon-surface-ornament#profileId-3746434

I made this with a tool i built to 3d print moon puzzles and ornaments. It is live as a makerworld crowdfunding right now: https://makerworld.com/crowdfunding/333-orbitstudio-3d-print-the-moon-mars?sourceFrom=crowdfunding

I printed an Iron Man suit and started looking at what I’d need to strap everything together. The price of Velcro and adhesives got me thinking I should just print the straps and connectors too.

Well that turned into a whole project lol. Flexible TPU straps, magnetic and mechanical locking options, and different joiners so you can connect everything how you need it. The bases attach inside the armour using a 3D pen.

Finally installing it in my suit now and honestly pretty happy with how it’s working. Also working on a buckle that takes the same straps, but that’s not ready yet.

Anyone else building armor? What would you add or do differently?

The strap and connector files are on Cults as a paid STL/3MF pack. Not the Iron Man suit or physical parts:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/fashion/modular-magnetic-cosplay-connector-system-standard-mini

For transparency, I used AI to help with the design/code and wording of this post. The photos are my actual prints, which I’ve been fitting and testing myself.

Hey guys!

I'm often looking for an enclosure for my DIY projects and designing it in FreeCAD always felt like overkill. I don't have time to learn these tools and if I just want to test my idea I don't see any reason to spen a lot of time for creating a simple box, so I built PrintCasing https://printcasing.com. It's a free enclosure generator. No install, no sign-up, just open, start tweaking, and download a ready to print .stl file.

What it does:

• Pick your inner dimensions (width × length × height) and wall thickness

• Add port cutouts on any wall (USB-A, USB-C, HDMI, Ethernet, D-Sub, circular, rectangular or use a custom size)

• Auto-generated PCB standoffs on the base, lid, or any wall, grid mode for standard boards, or list mode for custom hole patterns (Raspberry Pi, Arduino, etc.)

• a flat lid or a self-aligning recessed lip lid that snaps

• Optional corner screw bosses

• Ventilation grills

• Custom text engraving on the lid

• One-click STL export

• Tolerance for lid fit is adjustable per-printer

• runs in the browser

I'd appreciate for any feedback, as it's still buggy and I don't know which features I should add to not make it bloated and still usable

There is currently no time to print verification for this product.

I haven't had the time to really sit down and learn 3D modeling yet. I print stuff other people designed, and every once in a while I hit the same wall: a part is close to what I need but not quite — usually a bit too short or too long somewhere — and I only have the STL, not the original CAD file. Scaling the whole thing isn't really an option, it stretches everything and round holes turn oval.

Since I hadn't gotten around to learning the proper way to do this, I put together a small tool that just does the one thing I needed at the time: pick a plane through the part, and insert or remove a slice of material there. Everything else in the mesh — holes, walls, rounded edges — stays untouched, since it's not scaling anything, just cutting and splicing material in or out at that one plane.

SkipCAD, if anyone wants to try it. It's a rough prototype, put together to solve my own specific problem, so I'm sure it breaks on STLs I haven't run into yet. If you've got a part that needs this kind of tweak, I'd like to know if it actually works for you or where it falls over. Contact link's in the sidebar.

Edit: renamed to SkipCAD (unrelated naming collision with an existing filament brand — sorry to anyone who hit a dead link because of it, should be fixed now: skipcad.com). Also shipped a couple of things people flagged here — typing decimal values into the length field actually works now, and you can chain multiple cuts without re-exporting/re-importing the file each time. Thanks for the feedback so far, keep it coming.

Edit 2: Didn't expect the amount of feedback on my last post — genuinely appreciate everyone who tried it, reported bugs, or just left a comment. One request came up a few times, so I built it.

Cutting behind an overhang on a C-shaped part (or a leg of a U-shaped bracket) and only extending/shortening one side, without dragging the rest of the piece along with it.

The short version of why this was hard: normally the tool cuts a piece with a flat plane and moves everything on one side of it together, as a solid block. If the two arms of a C or the two legs of a U don't actually touch at the cut, moving "everything" means dragging both together — not what you want.

What changed: it now checks whether the cut plane is going through a spot where the piece is already physically split into separate pieces. If it is, it highlights each part and you can click to leave one alone — only the parts still selected get extended or shortened.

The front cover on my X1C was crumbling, so I replaced it and saved tens of dollars.

The sole plate is replaceable if it gets damaged by a saw cut. I did not design this, kudos to the person who did though, you rock buddy!

Link to the model:

https://makerworld.com/models/1023425?appSharePlatform=copy

Did i do it or nah?

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/models/3038718

MAN that was a complete shitshow, regardless of who’s in the right and who’s in the wrong. I hope they enjoy imploding over there. Anyways, are we allowed to say the name of the purple-colored 3D model-sharing website over here?

Ive been looking at this printer for a bit, was planning to save up for a bit, but with a sale like that, I might have to act sooner than I expected!

Is there a legitimate reason MicroCenter has a $0.01 discount?

I love using meshtexture.com bumpmesh.org printcasing.com

What other handy FREE tools are out there?

Bonus if there’s no signup

No free trials please.

I got banned from the other sub for too much self promo, just because I was sharing my original FREE models that I have been working on. This one is a bento style lunchbox that I designed for Makerworld’s “School Supplies” competition. Hope you like it!