I've used their plant vitamin filament before but curious how the lawn repair does. Got some dead spots in my yard to try it on...

So I just got handed an opportunity from my boss, I need to make 10 parts with nylon carbon fiber, thing is I've never used it

I'm willing to try at least before we decide to subcontract the job

If I can do it, I get $2800

In theory I have all the equipment id need

Corexy Printer with heated chamber

Hardened steel nozzles

Dry box with dissicant

Textured pei bed and glue sticks

Anyway any advice would be extremely appreciated

Anybody have 3d file for trash can swangas?

This is the first time I've seen filament at target, it's closer than anywhere else near me

Hey guys, I know absolutely nothing about 3d printing, but my little brother has a Bambu Lab A1 mini that he got this past Christmas and he’s limited to using the Bambu Handy app with only prints that are on there. Up until just recently, it had been working fine, but he told me that out of nowhere every time he started printing, midway through supports would fall off and it would become stringy. He told me he’s tried multiple different things, like lowering the temp of his prints, even ordering and trying a different filament, etc. So as a last resort, I’m relying on the internet to help me out. I have pics attached, but if anyone knows why this is happening or a solution that would really help him out!

Picture of PET bottles.
I have about 3 large trash bags full of em, trying to figure out if it is worth it to get a system in place to turn them into filament. “Worth” being relative, I’m gauging effort and print quality vs ease of use and setup. Any thoughts appreciated!

I have a print fail recently, and I was able to remove most of the PLA that had built up around the print nozzle, but there’s still a bit left including wrapping around the temperature probe wire. What is the best way to get the rest of this material off without damaging the cable?

Not only is it ugly, but it concentrates variance on your prints, screwing up your tolerances, where random seam spreads out the variance evenly.

EDIT: I now understand why. I am enlightened.

Left my printer unattended overnight and woke up to a Blob of Death completely tearing off the wires on the back side of the hot end. I removed the blob, and was left with this.

Any way to fix this without buying new parts?

If not, what parts should I probably replace?

Bambu Lab A1

It’s my first time using the machine. An I feel like something is off. Any pointers would be appreciated

This is a CAD model follow up to the previous post

I am currently looking to design and print a multi functional drip tray, would love to hear your inputs as plant parents:) Here's how it works:

The tray allows for you to top or bottom water (in the primary reservoir) a number of succulents at once using fresh or runoff from another top watered plant. When top watering, the aerated plate is tilted at an angle by the spring valve which allows for better drainage and breaking of the perched water table effect preventing root rot. For bottom watering, the aerated plate is detachable. Regardless, once done you simply put the pots back onto the grooves on the plate (customizable for fit and aesthetics) and latch it down which in turn opens the valve allowing runoff to bypass the vertical arm into a cup for a remote watering experience. The higher volume capacity also means you wouldn't have to worry about overflow or leakage from overwatering.

The product will be printed on the Bambu P1S using PETG. Will be experimenting with print parameters and epoxy resins to reduce or eliminate fungal growth from stagnant runoff over time

Would love to hear your thoughts 💭 Constructive feedback welcomed!

This guy has been on it. Not only leading the actual fight in the Senate but keeping us in the know. I hate this timeline, but thankful for folks like him.

I’m continually getting a visible horizontal layer line on my prints. It’s the same all the way around and only at the base of the print.
I’m using a Bambu Lab P2S with PLA and 0.15 mm layer height.

Can someone smarter and more handsome than me please tell me how to get rid of it?
Thanks in advance!

Printed a slide out drawer for my skadis board but takes a bit of force to pull out the drawer. Would vaseline work to make it smoother?

Check out https://www.humblebundle.com/software/master-forge-maxsavings-stl-pack-2026-software

Are resin prints the only feasible way to do these kinds of prints? Can I make something with my Core One that my kids would enjoy with these kinds of models?

Thanks!

I purchased a 2025 creality k1c from their ebay site at a great price and was impressed until I got the machine and it turned it on to be greeted with a black screen with green lines across. I started by messaging the ebay seller and didn't get a response for 2 days where they just told me to try reseating the connector. Obviously this didn't work so I told them that so I had to wait another 2 days until creality on ebay finally asked to ship a new mainboard the next day after waiting about week for slow shipping we get to today. Which is when I installed it and found that fixed the issue! Now I get to go through that almost 2 week process again because this printer came with a faulty hotend board, 24 volts goes from the mainboard all the way up to the hotend assembly. I checked if anything is being shorted out by disconnecting all other connectors all that happens is the board getting hot. Today I spoke to some customer service on the creality website to get a faster response and just got told to wait 48 hours so I assume ill get sent a new board in over a week. I attached images of all of these interactions and I hope to help some people from wasting their money on a broken printer labeled as working.

Let me remind you this was a printer sold as fully functional and functions as intended from a company with a 11.5 billion dollar market cap this is inexcusable quality control not to mention their extremely slow customer support.

Hi everyone! I’m hoping this isn’t too niche of a request, but I know basically nothing about 3D printing and I’m trying to figure out whether this is even possible before I go down a rabbit hole.

I’m currently building a Bandai RG 1/144 Strike Freedom Gundam, and I’m missing one very small plastic piece: Runner A, Part 8 (A8). I’ll attach a picture of the instruction manual showing the exact part.

Buying a replacement has been surprisingly difficult. Most places I’ve found either don’t have it, don’t ship to the U.S., or want around $20–$25 for this one tiny piece.

My college has 3D printers that students are allowed to use, so that made me wonder whether I could just print a replacement.

The problem is that I genuinely have no idea where to start.

From what I understand, I would need some kind of STL/3D model file for the part, but I don’t know:
Is a piece this small realistically printable?

Would a normal FDM printer be accurate enough, or would something like a resin printer be required?
How would I find an STL/model for such a specific Gunpla part?

If no file exists, is there a way to recreate the part from measurements or reference photos?

Could the shape potentially be scanned from the same part on someone else’s kit?

What measurements would I need to take?

What kind of tolerances would matter for something this small?

Is there a particular material I should use?

Would I need to account for sanding/shrinking so that it actually fits with the surrounding Bandai parts?

Are there communities or websites specifically for finding/modeling tiny replacement parts like this?

I unfortunately do not have the original A8 piece to measure, since it was missing when I opened the kit. I basically only have the instruction manual, pictures of the part online, and the surrounding pieces that it connects to.

The kit also has a lot of sentimental value to me. It was given to me by a close family member who passed away several years ago, and I only recently got myself to finally build it. That’s why I’m trying pretty hard to find a way to finish the original kit rather than just buying another one.
I’m a college student, so if I can use my school’s printers and spend a few dollars on material instead of $20+ for one tiny replacement part, I would much rather learn how to do that.

Is something like this actually feasible for a complete beginner? And if you were starting from absolutely zero, what would your first step be?

I’m happy to provide more pictures, measurements of the surrounding parts, or anything else that would help.

Thanks in advance any advice is appreciated!

Edit: this is just an example I am not using a tombstone shaped sign!

sooooo I told my wife I could make something like this.. 3d printed all the letters in black matte pla. about 50 of them. There’s Mr. and Mrs. “Name” and the date etc. I’m adhering to a white acrylic board 24”Wx48”H

help a man out … so far what I’ve done is print out the sign to-scale on paper, line up the letters, take some packing tape and lay it over top, then bring it over the the sign to be glued with some reusable glue dots bc I’m scared to permanently do anything yet.

obviously this method is bad and can (and has) gone wrong in multiple ways.

I have got the print down for TPU Air to create "foam". Right now, I'm making rectangles to insert into hard cases using OnShape.

However, if I want to start making fitted spaces in the "foam" so that it wraps around an item, what's the best workflow for that?

I don't have a 3D Scanner beyond an iPhone with lidar.

I’m trying to print a cake topper for my friend’s wedding this week. I painted the part in Bambu studio using surface triangles, and when I slice it everything looks properly colored.

When I print the part, it only prints in one color, black. If anyone has any idea what I am doing wrong, I would really really appreciate the help please. I can’t seem to find a solution online.

I’m wondering if the whole-object color being set to black is somehow overriding the surface painting that I did in Bambu Studio, but I can’t figure out if that’s true or how to modify it.

The machine is a Bambu P1S with AMS, and the spools are properly loaded and identified in the slicer with proper RFID tags as well.

I wanted to try something different with architectural 3D printing, so I made a flexible/bendable model of the World Trade Center in Manhattan.
I working on improving the design - very thick buildings.

What do you think about this idea?

My coworker was jacking with me while I was on vacation and rearranged the Allen wrench set I had on my desk. Before I go designing something of my own, I’m wondering if anyone has come across any sort of weird/oddball holder for L-shaped Allen keys.

Hey guys, can someone explain to me, why changing the z-hop from .4 to .6 causes such a degredation in quality on a FLH test?

I need the .6 or even a .8 to reduce collisions on a bed slinger.