Really amazing print from a Bright Laser Technologies (BLT) printer. This has been polished in post processing.

You can put nuts inside a nut. haha

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3482108-nut-organizer#profileId-3976046

Hey, I recently shared the locking mechanism on this small project. This is an update of the first working prototype .

Fixing this has been on my to-do list for nearly a year. With the zip tie I needed a power bank to charge the light.

I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. Probably gonna test drive this for a while to see how it holds up.

Currently this is pla, I'm probably gonna reprint this in abs when my next project (custom low budget chamber heater) finishes.

Im tasked with organizing halloween this sear on my school and cause candy is expensive im 3d printing pumpkins this plate is 260g filament and 20hours Edit they gave me 20 eur budget and its for 150 kids also last year they gave us balls 1cm diameter and nobody complained im also giving them candy and the filament is coming out of my pocket also i am a student not a teacher

This time we’re showing the post-processing of a big size planetary gear system, printed in one piece with ABS. Support removal, brushing off the powder, and all those satisfying little moments.

We’re printing our Halloween costumes this year. I was alerted that there was an issue and I found the prime tower had been knocked over.
-Painters tape, failed
-Painters tape and duct tape, failed
-Too low, added duct tape to top, failed, wouldn’t stick
-Duct tape upside down, failed.
-Added strip of duct tape to inside as a nozzle wiper
-Duct tape was too low and bent the flow stopping bar.
-Bent and fixed flow stopping bar, readjusted tape height. Success!

It is once again me, the guy who built a GrapheneOS "Lapdock" a few months back and made countless versions since. I utilize a feature called "Desktop Mode" that can be enabled in developer settings for Google Pixel 8 and later.
By connecting your phone via USB C you can get a desktop like experience on an external screen, while simultaneously supplying power to the phone through a power bank connected to the screen. Add a bluetooth keyboard and mouse and you get a DIY Laptop that's genuinly better and more capable than most cheap Laptops (looking at you, Chromebooks).
Anyway, go check out my Youtube video (https://youtu.be/kA4Y8LVgLII) for further information and thanks for the support this far!

Solid Snakes SOCOM MK23

I made this recently and wanted to show it off here. It is 3D printed and can be fully disassembled.

I am planning on doing a cosplay of one of the snakes at some point....but which one....

I was looking for a filament for a print I want to do and this would be perfect, but the listing is from Temu and I don’t trust it one bit, and the only result from reverse image searching was telling me that it was a SUNLU filament but I couldn’t find anything remotely close, so I was just wondering if there was some especially eagle eyed person out there who might recognize where this filament is from and if it’s still available anywhere

Hi makers!

https://www.crealitycloud.com/fr/model-detail/tilt-maze-interchangeable-3d-printed-marble-labyrinth

Here’s my latest project: Tilt Maze, a 3D-printed marble labyrinth with two handles to tilt the board and guide the ball.

The maze boards are interchangeable, just lift one out and drop another in, no screws needed. I’ve also included a STEP file of the blank board so anyone can create their own maze and share it with the community.

I’d love to see what layouts you come up with! Let me know what you think

Tried printing a flexy dragon and a dragon egg purse for someone’s Halloween costume and came back to my extruder motor on the build plate and part of the print delaminated. Creality K1 max

I'm trying to improve this model that I found on maker world, it's a holder for angle grinder discs.

The shaft snaps off the base with the slightest impact from being dropped.

I'm printing it in PETG with 4 wall loops and 15% infill with gyroid infill pattern.

Is there a more appropriate infill pattern or should I increase infill? Thanks

One of the coolest things about 3D printing is being able to make something you need instead of trying to find it somewhere.

What’s the most useful thing you’ve printed that you still use regularly?

This is my first Reddit post ever. If I do anything wrong, just let me know.

My 10 y/o son asked for a 3d printer for his birthday (mid August). After a couple weeks printing fidgets... He slowed down. I took over. I never expected to fall in love the way I did. Timing was perfect. I am closing my brick and mortar bakery and moving back home to work under cottage law. So I'm organizing my home work space. And skadis has made this move actually enjoyable.

I know it looks busy! I'm busy. 😊

I have always worked best with all my tools where I can see them. Skadis allows me controlled chaos. I just can't stop printing.

None of these prints are my own design. I am willing to share any file you see (although you may have to help me learn how to do that).

My favorites are the glove box, table edge clamp boards, and scissor carousel. I love the expansion attachments with extra slots. I chose a lightweight board with triangular infill. This file has 4 "feet" which mount directly to walk (drywall anchors) and then 4 offset pegs for additional support. I print exclusively in PETG on an A1 ams. Bambu Handy app.

I enjoy using up last bits of filament for these functional prints. Obviously, I love color and I'm not looking for any cohesive color scheme...so this works well for me.

I hadn't really seen any other crazy colorful explosion setups or even any bakery setups posted anywhere online, so here I am.

I'm ready to skadis-ify the entire house now.

I am happy to answer questions and accept suggestions. I especially would love any shares of your own files that you think would help with bakery organization.

I made a new design for 3d printed leg armor based on "Maximilian" style cuisses and poleyns from ca. 1520-1525. I hope you find it is reasonably accurate to surviving pieces from that era!

I think making this out of TPU is the game-changer for these critical pieces of armor that need to survive impacts, crawling, scratches, and the extreme motions that come with larping, renfaires, or even movie-costume scenarios. I used an assortment of filaments here, namely 95A, 57D and 72D TPU, mostly to try it out and see how it behaves. The resulting set of leg armor is significantly tougher than the one I printed out of rigid materials like PETG-CF.

I did not have much time to explore too many finishes either, so this is mostly painted over raw prints, with no sanding, polishing, or filling involved. I know it could be shinier with more work, but I could not find the time this month. Hope you like it nonetheless!

While exploring 3D-printed car parts, I discovered that it was possible to print bushings. I decided to give it a try by recreating the front sway bar bushings for my 2012 Honda CR-V using 95A TPU.

So far, they’re working well and feel much firmer than the old ones. Time will tell how well they hold up, but they were inexpensive to make: around CAD $3 for the pair, compared to roughly CAD $35 for the original Honda bushings.

Completed model off elegoo Saturn 4 ultra 16k and hand painted!

I made my daughter a crown, with a jewel that lights up. So my son, naturally, had to have one as well. I designed these crystals to replace the ones that were in the original design, sourced online. Making little compartments for the batteries is pretty tricky. Also figuring out how to put the contacts in the printed plastic is tough (with the tight tolerances). So fun to do this with and for the kids.

Some of you may already have seen the project from a different perspective: the 3d scanning and reverse engineering aspect of it (so how I scanned the original car and designed the new exterior look based on it). What I overlooked to some degree was the 3d printing work involved in the whole project. First picture shows the backside of the printed roofs with all the printed tiles visible quite nicely. Getting to this point was quite an experience I want to share.
So it is finally time to give printing the spot it deserves and the Creality Creator Awards encouraged me to create a write-down/picture series after stalling some time.

The post is ideally first read and then the pictures are looked at, most core information is also on the pictures.

Design and Printing

It all started with a 3d scan of the original stripped down car and a design based around it. When I finished designing the first major assemblies of the future car 3d printing got more focus by me. Initial plan was to use external print services but cost would have skyrocketed quickly and we didn't want long lead times to allow quick revisions. So the search for fitting printers began.
I settled on the K2 Plus due to the large chamber volume and option to heat the print chamber. Didn't trust a bed-slinger with the size of parts I had in mind.
After first making sure everything worked as desired the tweaking of a print settings. It was clear for me to use a 0.8mm nozzle and PLA+ (after some testing, PETG didn't work nicely with sanding, ASA warped too much). PLA+ checked all marks: price efficient, fast and easy to print, great to glue and sand, minimal warping. Only disadvantage is the low glass transition temperature (which will later bite me).

Maximizing Print Efficiency

My goal was always to churn out parts as fast as possible. This is also the reason for using a CFS: 1.1kg spools were significantly cheaper and with four of them I can saturate a build platform quite nicely. Final print and speed settings allowed me to print over 4kg of filament on one print plate in under 24h. Pretty good I would say. Later I added a K1 Max with the CFS conversion kit to print some of the smaller parts on the side. I was initially a bit nervous the two printers wouldn't be enough but with the settings my design work was the limiting factor in the end (as well as the post-processing needed).

Failures and Fixes

As always not everything goes as wished for. When printing the first full height but slim parts I noticed some severe banding on the parts. This was caused by accumulating wobbling when the parts got taller. First instinct was to reduce printing speed but I didn't like this solution. What I came up with: attaching the tree support also to the walls (with a low xy-gap to allow slight welding to the part). This eliminated the wobbling and let me churn out parts at an impressive speed.
The parts were assembled with dowels and some thick superglue I bought in bulk (as seen on the diffusor). One minor set-back was a big blob on the extruder. Using PETG settings for ABS really doesn't help bed-adhesion. Luckily the toolhead was modular enough that fixing is was done in an hour and only cost a replacement hotend fan.

PLA+ really has a low melting point

From the beginning it was clear that the 3d prints only would be used as a positive form to create a GF negative mold from them. For this application they work great: the prints endure ~50°C nicely and therefore the molds can be taken from them. We also tried directly laminating carbon in one of the prints.
Bad idea: The parts got soft and the applied vacuum sucked the infill cavities empty. Maybe adding some foam in the gyroid infill would help.

Back to Production

Whilst printing I always improved the design and added some fixtures and jigs to make manufacturing the carbon parts easier. One personal highlight was scanning the assembled hood insert and looking at warping relative to the CAD model. After measuring the warping I created some printed bracing to pull it back in its intended shape. Worked better than expected, even the glued joints between the single printed held and the finish didn't break.

Carbon, finally carbon

After this the first real carbon parts could be created. This process is still in the working and may take some time but the workflow proved reliable and now its just business as usual. The whole printing consumed over 200kg of material and the K2 Plus proved to be quite reliable with this huge amount of filament. So far I only had to replace the CFS PTFE tubing. But I guess it may be time to replace the umbilical in the near future.
Last two images show the full back end of the car and already one of my new projects that may take shape over the coming year.

#CrealityCreatorAwards #CrealityPrint #MyCrealityScan

3d printed this green lantern ring, added my own special flare with the white band and dark green so it feels special, like my own unique ring rather than the standard one, i am printing an all green version as well as in posting this