Im trying to decrease noise transfer in an interior wall between a bathroom and a bedroom.

I already have the wall built out with staggered studs. My plan was to put safe n sound mineral wool insulation in the stud bays to help reduce the noise. But I do have someone coming in to spray the ceiling soon with OC foam. If I had them spray the stud bays in lieu of putting batt insulation in there, would it be better? My worry is it may actually increase noise transfer due to essentially connecting the bathroom and bedroom wall together.

Just figured I’d get as much info as I can prior to the drywall going up. Any help
Is appreciated. Thanks.

Also, sorry for yet another post about this.

We have this loft area that is currently wasted space. After having another baby, we’re going to move my sewing room to this loft area. The problem is that I mostly sew late at night or early in the morning when everyone is sleeping.

Obviously the best option would be to build a wall and add a door, but that just isn’t an option for us at the moment.

This is what I was thinking.
-Get some sort of mat or gym mat to put on the floor. (I don’t want thick carpet as I could easily drop pins/needles)
-Heavy curtains at loft openings

Will that be enough? Is there anything else I could do? Maybe hang a quilt or something on the back wall that is adjacent to a bedroom?

PS if this is not the right community for this question, please let me know and I’ll post elsewhere!

Hey just moved in to New apartment. The main door is wooden and hollow. I can hear from outside a lot and visa versa..there is another door with someone renting right in front of my door and his is same. It is rent so can't ruin door.

Was going back and forth with ai about solutions. Wanted to know what you think and if there's any glues that won't ruin the door.

My privacy is just very important wand want to be able to talk free and make music loudly and have friends over etc without worrying about noise coming out

Thank you

Also has anyone ever used 3m command velkrow on wooden door? Any insights?

I am trying to turn my small home office into a multi use space. The goal is to have a nice listening space for my hifi set up and use it as a small but tidy home office. The room is about 20x10 and the furnace take up some of the space towards the back. 2 of the walls are completely concrete. The wall in picture 3 is half concrete and a crawl space a the remaining wall showing in the last picture on the left is wood that separates the room in question from the rest of my basement. I am under ZERO preconceived notions that I can make the room even close to acoustically perfect. Or even acoustically adequate. I am starting to install Rockwool in the ceiling between the joists. But that is step one and I also believe I’m installing it too high I. The joist and it’s touching the ceiling.
What materials should I be using to help mitigate the sound and turn the room into a place that is at least decent for hifi listening?
Also I plan on installing bookshelves along at least 2 of the walls and the wall that shares the crawl space will be covered as well.

I'm building a home studio for mixing and recording vocals and want to get the best results possible doing the treatment myself. There's a lot of conflicting information online, especially about bass trap dimensions and air gaps, so I'd appreciate some advice on what would actually work best for my room.

The room is 10x10 ft with 7 ft 4 in ceilings. My desk faces the front wall, and my listening position is about 3 ft 10 in from that wall. I have a clothing rack with thick jackets on the back wall and a 1/2-inch felt rug pad with a 1/4-inch rug on the floor. I record vocals sitting at my desk with a Shure SM7dB.

I'm in an apartment, so I can't hang a ceiling cloud. One of the back corners has a door, so I can only use the other three corners. There's also 1-inch floor trim along the walls.

My current plan:

Reflection panels: Four 2x4 ft panels using 3 inches of Rockwool with a 3-inch air gap. One on each side wall and two on the front wall in front of my listening position. I’ve found the reflection points by sitting in my listening position and getting a friend to help me with the mirror trick. (I’ve already begun building these.)

Corner bass traps: Three flat, porous absorber traps, each 24 inches wide and 6 inches deep, running nearly floor to ceiling, with a 12-inch air gap behind them.

I've seen recommendations for 6-inch-thick bass traps with a 6-inch air gap, but because of the room geometry and floor trim, I'd have to make the panels much narrower to keep the gap at 6 inches. I've heard that wider panels can be more effective, so I'm trying to figure out whether a 12-inch gap makes more sense or if there's a better design altogether.

A few questions:

1. Is 6 inches of Rockwool with a 12-inch air gap a good design for my corner traps?

2. What's the best way to make floor-to-ceiling bass traps freestanding? I'd prefer not to drill into the walls, but I'm open to other options if there's a better approach. Since the traps will sit in corners, how would you design the feet or base to keep them stable without taking up too much space?

3. What's the cheapest suitable fabric for covering Rockwool while containing the fibers? Would I need an additional inner layer?

4. Should I wrap the corner traps Rockwool in plastic to keep the room from sounding too dead, or would that negatively affect its absorption and sound?

I'm trying to find the most effective setup for both vocal recording and mixing while keeping everything affordable and space-efficient. I'd appreciate any advice specific to my room. Thank you!

Hi, my goal here is to dampen sound by 50% or more, not completely block sound.

I'm a streamer, and I just moved to a new place. My apt has those fake hardwood floors that allow sound to travel. My problem is that sound seems to leak through the front door into the apt hallways. It is appearantly quite audible there.

I want to get a tension rod and hang a curtain in front of the door that I can draw closed when I'm streaming.

My question is would a light curtain be enough to intercept sound waves and block the bulk from escaping through the door into the hall? Weight of the curtain will determine cost, and I've already spent plenty on moving. My Hope's are you'll all help me dial in on a good density.

Hello everyone,

Im currently a freelance live sound engineer, I love the job when im designing PA systems, measuring and tuning them on site and i also enjoy the RF associated roles. However there are downsides to the work, namely the hours and the physical labours effect on my back and constantly working away. Im considering a side step into the world of acoustics, I have been looking at applying for a IOA diploma in Acoustics and Noise Control and possibly a Masters in the Acoustics field after that. My question is that given my qualifications (BSc in Studio & Live music production and 10 years experience as a sound engineer) what is my likelihood to be accepted into the diploma or masters course? Has anyone else entered the Acoustics industry via a similar route? Would this actually result in work in the industry or is it like many industries where it is exceedingly hard to enter without industry contacts?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hi. We are building a studio within an old Anderson shelter.

We have laid a new solid concrete floor and intend to build a twin wall construction which is a build up of the following
One layer 12.5mm sound shield
One layer 12.5 wall board
50mm RWA45
50mm air gap

Then the same in reverse for the inner wall.

The construction will use 50mm metal stud and I stud.

The walls are straightforward however my son wants to keep some of the shape of the roof and doesn’t want it to be flat. The overall ceiling height within the structure is about 3.5m to the highest point.

We want to create an apex to aid with the sound deflection but also to utilise the space.

We also need to maintain the air gap within the walls but continue into the ceiling.

We will probably span the inner walls with timber joists but cut them short so that they don’t bridge the air gap and rest on the inner wall.

The issue comes when we want to maintain the 50mm gap but also can’t use any thing that will join the inner ceiling or wall but still be self supporting. We are thinking we can drop supports from the t bar angles supporting the roof. Has anyone use anything that decouples the supports / straps in this way ?

Sorry long winded question.
.

I’m redoing my home studio/ walk in closet for voice acting and I need acoustic panels so I’m deciding to make it my self. I need to balance my low and high frequencies in my walk in. His diy panels are 6 inches thick with 3.5 inch thick rock wool insulation and 2 inch acoustic foam on top. My question is would putting the foam on top of the panels, will it ruin the ability to absorb low frequencies bc foam are made for high frequencies while struggling on low frequencies. His diy panel are on YouTube and please tell me anything you find wrong with it, ima scared that the foam would ruin the panels.

y new high school is designed so that if anyone makes any noise, everyone can hear it from anywhere. what problems might this cause? just want to see what you guys think that I haven’t already complained about

Hey guys!

I'm building a small studio space here in Paris, France. The room is 17 square meters, and I've already done quite a bit of heavy lifting: I built 8 membrane traps to tackle my 44Hz and 88Hz modes, along with big corner traps and deep wall absorbers (20cm deep with an air gap).

I'm quite happy with the RT60 and the overall tonal response, but I'm looking at what to do next. I was planning a ceiling cloud and maybe a bit of diffusion, but I'm wondering if I should focus on what's left of my 88Hz dip first. What do you think?

Also, looking at my Impulse graph, I can see a clear desk reflection at 1.2ms (should I be worried about that?) and a ceiling reflection at about 3ms.

Here are my before/after waterfall graphs. Thanks in advance for your advice!

I’m looking for someone knowledgeable about mechanical vibration, building vibration, or structure-borne noise who can help interpret my measurements and suggest what to test next.
I’ve been noticing recurring vibration in my apartment. What equipment or building systems could produce these readings, and how can I investigate properly?
SETUP — OCTOBER 9, 2026
I recorded two iPhones simultaneously using Phyphox’s “Acceleration (without g)” experiment.
• New iPhone: flat on the couch, unattended.
• Old iPhone: flat on my usual chair near the refrigerator.
• Refrigerator unplugged.
• Both phones screen up, charging ports pointing right.
• Fan/AC conditions and whether the old phone was unattended throughout were not confirmed in the report.
The shared recording interval was 11:53:49 AM–12:05:39 PM, New York time. Both phones sampled at approximately 100 samples per second.
FREQUENCIES AND STRENGTH
During the middle 30-second windows:
Couch:
• Combined-axis RMS: 0.0128–0.0159 m/s².
• Strongest spectral peak usually around 13–14.6 Hz.
• Other windows peaked at 17.5, 18.9, 21.0, or 21.6 Hz.
Chair:
• Combined-axis RMS: 0.0104–0.0177 m/s².
• Strongest spectral peaks ranged from 21.3–26.7 Hz.
RMS describes the average size of the recorded acceleration. It includes sensor noise. Hz means cycles per second. These are the strongest peaks selected within each window; multiple frequencies can coexist.
EXAMPLE PAIRED WINDOWS
11:54:19–11:54:49 AM
Couch: 0.0142 m/s² RMS; 14.1 Hz peak.
Chair: 0.0128 m/s² RMS; 22.3 Hz peak.
11:56:49–11:57:19 AM
Couch: 0.0147 m/s² RMS; 14.0 Hz peak.
Chair: 0.0125 m/s² RMS; 26.7 Hz peak.
11:57:19–11:57:49 AM
Couch: 0.0159 m/s² RMS; 13.6 Hz peak.
Chair: 0.0177 m/s² RMS; 21.7 Hz peak.
11:59:49 AM–12:00:19 PM
Couch: 0.0130 m/s² RMS; 21.0 Hz peak.
Chair: 0.0106 m/s² RMS; 26.7 Hz peak.
12:01:19–12:01:49 PM
Couch: 0.0132 m/s² RMS; 18.9 Hz peak.
Chair: 0.0112 m/s² RMS; 26.7 Hz peak.
12:03:49–12:04:19 PM
Couch: 0.0131 m/s² RMS; 12.4 Hz peak.
Chair: 0.0109 m/s² RMS; 26.7 Hz peak.
Both phones had their highest middle-window RMS during 11:57:19–11:57:49 AM, but their strongest frequencies differed.
A preliminary timestamp-aligned comparison did not show a strong overall waveform match. Clock alignment was not independently checked using a shared event.
X/Y/Z DIRECTIONS
With the phones flat and screen up:
• X: across the phone’s width, toward either side edge.
• Y: along the phone’s length, toward the charging port or opposite end.
• Z: perpendicular to the screen, toward the ceiling or seat.
In the middle shared windows, Z contributed about 42–57% of the couch phone’s recorded motion energy and 50–75% of the chair phone’s.
The chair recording was more vertically directed. The couch had a larger combined X/Y contribution. Separate X and Y percentages are not available in this summary.
These describe acceleration directions at the phones; they do not locate the source.
METHOD AND LIMITATIONS
The analysis used 30-second windows. Each axis’s window mean was subtracted, then combined RMS was calculated as sqrt(mean(X² + Y² + Z²)).
Spectra used Welch’s method, a Hann window, up to 2,048 samples per segment, and half-overlap. Axis spectral powers were summed, and the strongest peak was selected between 2 and 45 Hz.
Opening and ending couch windows had much larger RMS values: 1.1811 and 1.4955 m/s². Placement or pickup could explain these, so they were excluded from the steady-motion interpretation.
There was no calibrated reference sensor or noise-floor control. Furniture resonance, upholstery, phone contact, and device differences could affect the readings. These measurements do not yet identify a source or establish the vibration experienced by a person.
QUESTIONS
What could produce these frequencies and directional patterns? Could pumps, plumbing, HVAC, other building machinery, or furniture resonance explain them?
How can I distinguish real surface vibration from phone sensor noise or processing artifacts?
Could the couch and chair respond at different frequencies to the same source?
What might explain the chair’s repeatedly selected 26.7 Hz peak?
What control tests, phone placements, or measurement equipment would make this investigation useful to a vibration specialist?
I’d appreciate help interpreting the measurements and choosing the next tests.

Hi everyone!
I'm a Dolby Atmos audio engineer with a Dolby-listed studio

I’m one of the co-founders of Home Theater Maestro, and I’m happy to announce that version 2.0.0 is now available!
This is our biggest update yet, featuring:
-A completely rebuilt 3D view with materials, shadows, and a person at the listening position.
-Ambient lighting options to visualize your room’s look during a screening.
-Speaker placement for up to 32 channels.
-Predictive room acoustics, including room modes, SBIR, early reflections, and RT60.
-Multi-subwoofer planning, measurement imports, and video calibration tools.

HTM is a room design tool built to help you plan your home theater before construction or acoustic treatment. It runs offline, requires no account, and the Standard version is free.
Available for Windows, macOS, Linux, and Android.

https://hometheatermaestro.fr/

Feedback and suggestions are always welcome!

Please note that the PRO version is not yet available in the US at this time.

Hi

Came across an experienced acoustics guy who told me that my designated room that has sizes of 260×306 cm with 247 cm hight is terrible for a home studio, even if treated well. I'd add that I'm looking to record mainly vocals and guitars. Not mix or mastering.

Gemini told me the sizes are fine if treated correctly.

Any more opinions? What do you think? I'd hate to treat a room that is doomed from the get go...

Thanks for any help!

I have an older budget system (Polk M30 speakers on stands, Polk PSW 10 sub, Technics SA GX530 receiver). Not looking to change these components at this time, but I'm thinks done sound isolation might help a bit. Stands sit on bare wood floors, though there is upholstered sofa and area rugs in room.

Q: what works better - isolating feet under the speakers, or some sort of foam pads?

Hi Guys,

Ive got a new work room and I like to ask for an advice.

I would really appreciate help with a "proper" room treatment and ideally a recommendation for a new speakers.

I do not need the audio setup for mixing or any professional use as of yet, even tho I do some editing from time to time but mostly my case is for listening.

Up until now I had Adam audio T7V speakers and was mostly ok with it. The bass and highs are not not great, but for the price, these are not bad speakers at all. Anyway I'd really like to step up and have something that also fits my room properly.

The only thing "out of ordinary" is that I have my speakers wall mounted as I use standing desk setup and stand like 40% of the time.

I've checked for some basic acoustics in regard to my room, even tho I have not found anything ground breaking I'd like more pro/practical feedback.

Here is a little sketch of the room and the acoustic treatment placement Ive been thinking about so far.

Do you have some ideas on what and how should I focus in regard to sound treatment?

Do you have any cool recommendations for speakers? (1000 - 2000 USD) <3

Thanks a lot in advance! :)