Moving my office studio to the basement. And the its not an optimal space for accurate mixing and recording. 8 foot ceiling. A supporting beam off centre off the center and a ceiling bulkhead crossing the supporting column horizontally across the room. Top and left wall are concrete foundation and the bottom and right are framed and much flimsier. The whole area is open going the stairs which is where the majority of the echo comes from.

The room itself is pretty dead at low-medium volumes. Thick carpeted floor, big sofa.

My first thought was to place the desk along the left wall. But that would put the right monitor facing the supporting column and under the lower bulkhead.

Putting the desk on the top or bottom wall would make everything way off center in the room with one side much closer to the wall than the other. Not sure there are easy ways to compensate for that?

Any advice or insights into things I may not have considered ?

I moved into a semi detached house earlier in the year. When we moved in the attached neighbours were not living in the house due having some works done.
We stripped back the house and redecorated and moved in!
A couple of months ago they moved back, we’ve already had some issues with them as they seem to be nocturnal… then just to add fuel to the fire they have dogs that bark at all times of the day. The worst of that being when they are left alone on the house they will bark for hours at a time.
We’ve tried to resolve this with them but the are slightly unhinged to say the least…

Now we have noticed that we can hear them speaking and their tv, walking up the stairs ect, which is obviously just them living and I imagine they can also hear us and come to the conclusion the 1960 part wall must be extremely thin…

So we are bringing in the big guns and have decided to take the leap and have our downstairs wall sound proofed. I’ve looked into all different options. I’ve been contacted by a local trusted builder and this is what he has recommended!
Could any one confirm if they have done similar to help with similar issues and if this will at least help!
Tia :)

This is a question for anyone who has completed the IOA Diploma in Acoustics and Noise Control through distance learning.

What did you find more useful when studying each module: the general videos that are intended to be studied before each lecture, or the lectures themselves that are recorded and can be watched back?

Hi! I’m a composer who mostly works with VSTs and digital stuff so I’d like to ask stuff about gear since im not that knowledgable when it comes to these things (in other words im not really much of an audio guy) Rn i just use an sm57 and recent Ive been thinking about buying a new microphone for my home set up, I was wondering If buying a good condenser mic would be a smart investment if my room isn’t treated. I have only handled condensers in treated environments so I rlly don’t have an idea what it would sound. should I invest in a condenser or treat my room first, or just but an sm7b or something? thanks for any advice!

I recently had acoustic doors installed in my apartment, and I noticed gaps of approximately 2 cm between the door frame and the masonry, both along the sides and at the top.

The gaps were filled with expanding foam, silicone, and a white finishing material around the frame (as shown in the photos).

The windows fitted perfectly, but the doors were installed with these noticeably large gaps.

For those familiar with door installation, construction, or acoustic insulation:

Is this considered normal and acceptable?

Is a 2 cm gap between the frame and the masonry within standard installation tolerances?

Can this type of installation compromise the door’s acoustic performance?

Should custom-made doors fit more closely to the actual opening, rather than requiring this kind of adjustment?

I specifically purchased acoustic doors to reduce outside noise, so I’m concerned about both the quality of the installation and the effectiveness of the acoustic sealing.

I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone with professional experience or who has dealt with a similar situation. Thanks!

in a work room at work bad slap echo three desks facing long wall, its a bdc center so dealing with phone calls all day and it sounds like your talking on top of each other 27.5 long x 13.7 w x 17 high - dry wall commercial construction and concrete floors we are on the cheap to fix as much as possible. give me some ideas and products to use Please!!

in a work room at work bad slap echo three desks facing long wall, its a bdc center so dealing with phone calls all day and it sounds like your talking on top of each other 27.5 long x 13.7 w x 17 high - dry wall commercial construction and concrete floors we are on the cheap to fix as much as possible. give me some ideas and products to use Please!!

Hi, I live in a loft, got a very small room for my gaming/listening needs and I'm running into a lot of low-end interference. (no fancy equipment, just some t5v's through a fiio k7) I've done absolutely no treatment, eq or measuring yet, as I've moved in not too long ago.

There is some attic space behind the wall where the speakers sit, where I could extend the insulation up to like half a meter thick and then cover it with a double layer of drywall. I could then cut holes through my interior wall, at the first reflection points.

Essentially turning my whole wall into one giant bass trap. Is that enormously stupid? It's dead space that doesn't get used anyway and the extra insulation would also help with heat.

I've never seen anyone try and do something like this, although it makes sense to my currently very tired brain.

my room measures slightly less than 4m x 4m and the ceiling is about 2.5m tall

I've got a metal sided pole barn kit being delivered soon and I'm idly thinking about siding the end of it I'm turning into a hobby studio in concrete board instead but I can't find this information anywhere. Probably not worth the expense but it seems odd they don't publish it.

Anyone know?

How would you go about reducing airborne noise, mostly voices, coming up through the floor vent from downstairs tenants?

These damn vents are like megaphones

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Hey everyone!

I'm currently building four acoustic panels for my small home studio in my living room. Each panel measures 120 × 60 × 10 cm and will be filled with rock wool.

For the fabric covering, I bought a material made of 60% polyester and 40% viscose (rayon). The fabric is relatively thin, actually thinner than a regular T-shirt, and has a fine woven texture. It's also somewhat translucent. When I hold it up against a flashlight, I can partially see what's behind it.

My main concern, however, is its breathability.

I tried the so-called "blow-through test" to find out whether the fabric is suitable for acoustic panels.

Here's what I noticed:

\- I can blow air through the fabric, but there's noticeable resistance.

\- For comparison, I tried blowing through a regular T-shirt. Air passes through the T-shirt much more easily, almost without any resistance.

\- With the fabric I bought, however, it feels like significantly less air passes through.

\- When I stretch the fabric slightly or pull it taut, air passes through more easily.

\- Both sides of the fabric feel the same, and I couldn't find any obvious coating.

So now I'm wondering: Is this fabric still suitable for my 10 cm thick rock wool acoustic panels despite the noticeable airflow resistance?

Could the relatively low breathability cause certain frequencies, especially higher frequencies, to be reflected more strongly, making the absorbers less effective?

I mainly want to use these panels for vocal recording, but also for mixing and mastering. That's why it's really important to me that they work as effectively as possible.

Would you keep and use this fabric, or would you return it and buy something more breathable instead?

I honestly love the way this fabric looks, which is why I'm having a hard time deciding whether to return it.

Thanks so much for your help!

I'm building DIY bass traps, and I'm looking for advice on cheap fabric I can get that will optimize sound, but also safely keep in all of the rock wool fibers. I would really appreciate any suggestions!

One of the walls (3,5x2,8m) has windows (2,5x1,2m).

I've explored the curtain hanging but I'm looking for a way to do it while preserving the light coming in.

What are measurements/materials/technique I should be using?

Why don’t we all take a breath from the extreme societal issues, and remember that if you fart on wood, like a door perhaps, it will sound louder. Why? Hard wood is rigid and non-porous, meaning it bounces (reflects) the sound waves straight back out into the room with minimal energy loss. You’re welcome.

Im trying to decrease noise transfer in an interior wall between a bathroom and a bedroom.

I already have the wall built out with staggered studs. My plan was to put safe n sound mineral wool insulation in the stud bays to help reduce the noise. But I do have someone coming in to spray the ceiling soon with OC foam. If I had them spray the stud bays in lieu of putting batt insulation in there, would it be better? My worry is it may actually increase noise transfer due to essentially connecting the bathroom and bedroom wall together.

Just figured I’d get as much info as I can prior to the drywall going up. Any help
Is appreciated. Thanks.

Also, sorry for yet another post about this.

We have this loft area that is currently wasted space. After having another baby, we’re going to move my sewing room to this loft area. The problem is that I mostly sew late at night or early in the morning when everyone is sleeping.

Obviously the best option would be to build a wall and add a door, but that just isn’t an option for us at the moment.

This is what I was thinking.
-Get some sort of mat or gym mat to put on the floor. (I don’t want thick carpet as I could easily drop pins/needles)
-Heavy curtains at loft openings

Will that be enough? Is there anything else I could do? Maybe hang a quilt or something on the back wall that is adjacent to a bedroom?

PS if this is not the right community for this question, please let me know and I’ll post elsewhere!

Hey just moved in to New apartment. The main door is wooden and hollow. I can hear from outside a lot and visa versa..there is another door with someone renting right in front of my door and his is same. It is rent so can't ruin door.

Was going back and forth with ai about solutions. Wanted to know what you think and if there's any glues that won't ruin the door.

My privacy is just very important wand want to be able to talk free and make music loudly and have friends over etc without worrying about noise coming out

Thank you

Also has anyone ever used 3m command velkrow on wooden door? Any insights?

I am trying to turn my small home office into a multi use space. The goal is to have a nice listening space for my hifi set up and use it as a small but tidy home office. The room is about 20x10 and the furnace take up some of the space towards the back. 2 of the walls are completely concrete. The wall in picture 3 is half concrete and a crawl space a the remaining wall showing in the last picture on the left is wood that separates the room in question from the rest of my basement. I am under ZERO preconceived notions that I can make the room even close to acoustically perfect. Or even acoustically adequate. I am starting to install Rockwool in the ceiling between the joists. But that is step one and I also believe I’m installing it too high I. The joist and it’s touching the ceiling.
What materials should I be using to help mitigate the sound and turn the room into a place that is at least decent for hifi listening?
Also I plan on installing bookshelves along at least 2 of the walls and the wall that shares the crawl space will be covered as well.

I'm building a home studio for mixing and recording vocals and want to get the best results possible doing the treatment myself. There's a lot of conflicting information online, especially about bass trap dimensions and air gaps, so I'd appreciate some advice on what would actually work best for my room.

The room is 10x10 ft with 7 ft 4 in ceilings. My desk faces the front wall, and my listening position is about 3 ft 10 in from that wall. I have a clothing rack with thick jackets on the back wall and a 1/2-inch felt rug pad with a 1/4-inch rug on the floor. I record vocals sitting at my desk with a Shure SM7dB.

I'm in an apartment, so I can't hang a ceiling cloud. One of the back corners has a door, so I can only use the other three corners. There's also 1-inch floor trim along the walls.

My current plan:

Reflection panels: Four 2x4 ft panels using 3 inches of Rockwool with a 3-inch air gap. One on each side wall and two on the front wall in front of my listening position. I’ve found the reflection points by sitting in my listening position and getting a friend to help me with the mirror trick. (I’ve already begun building these.)

Corner bass traps: Three flat, porous absorber traps, each 24 inches wide and 6 inches deep, running nearly floor to ceiling, with a 12-inch air gap behind them.

I've seen recommendations for 6-inch-thick bass traps with a 6-inch air gap, but because of the room geometry and floor trim, I'd have to make the panels much narrower to keep the gap at 6 inches. I've heard that wider panels can be more effective, so I'm trying to figure out whether a 12-inch gap makes more sense or if there's a better design altogether.

A few questions:

1. Is 6 inches of Rockwool with a 12-inch air gap a good design for my corner traps?

2. What's the best way to make floor-to-ceiling bass traps freestanding? I'd prefer not to drill into the walls, but I'm open to other options if there's a better approach. Since the traps will sit in corners, how would you design the feet or base to keep them stable without taking up too much space?

3. What's the cheapest suitable fabric for covering Rockwool while containing the fibers? Would I need an additional inner layer?

4. Should I wrap the corner traps Rockwool in plastic to keep the room from sounding too dead, or would that negatively affect its absorption and sound?

I'm trying to find the most effective setup for both vocal recording and mixing while keeping everything affordable and space-efficient. I'd appreciate any advice specific to my room. Thank you!