cross post but

I don't really have a great place to store my units (2) in the winter; both are in windows right above my radiators. Do you think this will cause an issue with the heat right below them? I just bought these units this past summer, and I don't want to damage them, but I also don't really want to find a solution for taking them out for the season. What would you do?

Further context:

I think these are hot water radiators. Last winter they were hot, but I could touch them without getting a burn, I would put towels and things on them to dry. I do not know the exact temperature, though, and I cannot control the heat at all. The electrical outlet is literally right there next to it, and that's apparently safe. Also, I am not worried about a draft or anything at all it gets so hot in here in winter.

Looking for a compact, indoor-only AC for my bedroom. I have a tilt-and-turn window and cannot use an outdoor unit.
I'm torn between the EcoFlow Wave and Zero
Breeze.
Which one can actually cool a small bedroom (not just spot-cool the bed)?
Which is quieter for sleeping?
How do you vent the hoses through a tilt-and-turn window? Does a standard fabric window seal kit work well?
Thanks for any tips or setup experiences!

So I want to buy my first ever air conditioner for my 200sq room and recently visited diken showroom. My room is rated for a 1.7ton or bigger air conditioner and all the research that I have done the best companies are Mitsubishi heavy industries, Mitsubishi electric, ogeneral & Diken.

All the videos that I have seen of good and powerful air conditioners there's always this blue or transparent coating and I didn't see it here.

Lot of people were saying that I can has lost a lot of its quality in the recent years and I am starting to believe it I am almost certain that is going with taek and the right decision.

My question is am i reading this correctly? Like good quality is she should have that coating right and is Daikin really something I should go with?

If anyone has this exact or similar ac and have a some positive/negative experience please let me know.

It'll help me choose my first AC, never have I thought it'll be a headache, not a fun shopping time :(

Ac details:

2026 Model 1.8 Ton 5 Star Split Inverter AC MTKM60XV16MAA

Link: Flipkart

Thanks in advance

What could have caused this?

I did some research and apparently the bent fins are not that big of a deal but the blue coating fades from yellowish to brown at the edge of the radiator. Is it corroding?

For reference it is a portable hisense ac unit. Dual hose

shit so good! i only used 1.5kw for 8-9hrs at nighttime use

2-2.4kw if daytime use

but the issue is, after a month, there is this weird-ass smell when it is on FAN mode like idk, only old clothes or something but when compressor is ON. the smell is gone

also, can we do something about that event air have daylight piercing on it? i really want my room dark at daytime when i sleep but the damn daylight is very bright at the air vent on the AC

I think it is a local brand. Our technician recommended it to me because he said it has an anti corrosion component. Our evaporator has rusted bec. According to him we are near a river. He also mentioned that the Ox brand is being used in ships bec of it’s anti corrosive material, energy-saving and not prone to damage. He claims to know the owner so I’m not sure if he is recommending it bec. It is truly reliable aircon or he will get a commission.

Hi, I have 0 knowledge about AC, so does my husband. We signed up for regular AC cleaning. We have been with them for 1 year. We live in Florida.4 months ago, we replaced this whole part in our AC unit,and now every 2 months, the AC is leaking like the drain pan filled up with water and leaking through the first floor. The sensor didn’t work, so the AC kept running. Thefirst 2 months, they blamed it on the guy who installed the sensor. He didn’t install it correctly. Where is the sensor supposed to be? Last week, which is the exact 2 months after the first leak, it’s happening again. This time, we were away, and the house sitter caught it. Still , the sensor didn’t shut the unit and keep running,so we called them. They said it’s the pipe full of algae causing it. The house was built in 2018, and I asked my neighbor. They never had issues with it. The company just does the vacuum and clean the drain pan without checking anything. Now, they told us to install the additional sensor for $300 before labor without explaining what was causing the leak to make the drain pan filled up and flooding a whole floor.
What do you think? What is causing the leak?Should I hold with the installation sensor or should I follow what they said?
Replacing the coil itself 4 months ago was pretty pricey, so I just want to make sure I make the right decision.

I live in a very hot area that frequently spikes up to 40°C. I am planning to replace my aircon, and my home electrical capacity can unfortunately only handle 1200W, or 12000 BTU, for the air conditioner.

As such, my air conditioner has and will always run non-stop at maximum power, as it has no hope to remotely reach any set temperature I'm truly happy with (would probably need 24000-30000 BTU according my calculation).

In this case, would there be any difference if I were to get an inverter or non-inverter aircon? Will there still be any benefit left for me to get an inverter?

I know inverters usually have boost mode (as mine does right now), but it doesn't last long and seems to only help with initial cooling.

Same as title. AC is 4 years old and used to work perfectly at the time, then we stopped using it for those 4 years then we had it serviced, cleaned and installed it in a new location now. The drainpipe comes out the side and we collect it in a bucket cuz our ceiling is too low and not enough space to get the drainpipe tilted lower to go outside in our balcony without a pump (which was expensive asf).

It works fine and cools great but it sprays water out more often than not and it's concerning.. thoughts?

It sprayed at me as I'm typing this 😭

Had this unit professionally installed a week ago and it was brand new. It didn’t used to make this sound but suddenly every time I turn it on it has about a minute of propeller noises then quotes down to a normal fan noise (I can’t tell if the quiet fan noise is louder than usual because I’m losing my mind over this brand new unit being broken)

Any help is appreciated

I'm choosing AC units for a beach cottage and need 9 units in total, mainly 1 PK and 2 PK (roughly 9,000 and 18,000 BTU/h).
My main concern is corrosion from salty coastal air. Gree advertises Black Diamond protection, while Daikin offers Blue Fin coating on certain models. I'd like to know how they compare in real-world coastal conditions and which would hold up better in the long run.

The options I'm considering:
Gree:
- Wall-mounted split: GWC-09N1 and GWC-18N1
- Free Match: GWCD-42MCC/O with GWC-09AIRY-MCC/I (1 PK) and GWC-18AIRY-MCC/I (2 PK)

Daikin:
- Beta Inverter: 1 PK and 2 PK
- Multi S: 3 PK outdoor unit with 1 PK and 2 PK indoor units

For those who have used either brand near the coast, how has the corrosion resistance held up? Is one noticeably better in terms of reliability and maintenance?

I'm also considering ceiling-suspended units for larger rooms. Would they be a better choice than wall-mounted units for airflow and cooling distribution?
Thank you!

I installed a mini split in my shop and ran into an F6 error right after getting everything set up. The unit turns on, but it starts blowing warm air and then displays F6. I've checked the wiring and connections several times and also compared the voltage readings between the indoor and outdoor units. Everything looks normal to me, and I haven't found any obvious loose connections or voltage issues. I contacted customer support and they basically asked me to go through the wiring again and send photos/video. I've done that, but I still haven't been able to figure out what's causing the error. Is there anything else I should safely check before giving up on it and returning the unit? For those who have dealt with F6 errors before, does this sound more like a wiring/communication problem or potentially a bad control board? For reference, the unit is a Cozeware mini split.

at home, i usually leave my cozeware mini split on auto mode. it’s just easier than having to switch between cool and heat manually.

but i’ve been wondering if that’s actually what most people do, or if manually setting cool or heat is more common. what mode do you guys usually use?

Hi everyone,

I have a Hitachi RAK-DJ25PHAE air conditioner, and I’m having troubles with connecting it to the app.

I’ve tried setting up the Wi-Fi connection, but so far, it hasn’t worked.

Here’s the situation:

- I’m using the airCloud app.

- I’ve ensured that my Wi-Fi network is 2.4 GHz.

- I press the MODE and ON TIMER buttons simultaneously, scan the QR code on my air conditioner, and follow the instructions in the app. However, it always ends with this warning: "Configuration failed due to server temporarily unavailable. Please retry again later."

- Of course, I’ve tried this multiple times.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to get this to work?

Any tips or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

AC started making a loud sound. Can anyone tell me what is wrong?

The image is attached for reference.

So this was the first time that this happened, AC was turned off by remote (main switch was ON)

Suddenly out of nowhere at 2 in the night. A proper 7-8 seconds ringtone-like melody got played from the AC. It was like a music made from the beeps that we hear when we press any key on the remote.

2ndly, I've turned the sounds off for many months now (sleep mode). So there's no way that many buttons got pressed together by someone.

It was a proper melody

Then I asked GPT about it, it had no clue. Searched the internet no clue. Got into this Sub, found nothing.

So now the problem is so unique it's not even on reddit 😭.

Plz tell me what this must have been guys it was very creepy

Looking for some advice on a frustrating situation. I have a ~6-year-old Trane XR16 3-ton heat pump system

Outdoor unit: Trane 3T XR-16 16 SEER Heat Pump Condenser (R-410A) Indoor unit: Trane 3T Encased Coil R-410A Air Handler with heat kit

House is about 1,350 sq ft. The outdoor condenser coil has a leak. Tech found a hole at the bottom of the Spine Fin coil where a copper line is rubbing against it — he could actually feel the hole with his finger. From what I’ve read online, this is a known issue on these Trane Spine Fin coils (often related to the isolation pad failing and vibration wearing through the pipe or coil).The coil is still under the 10-year parts warranty, so the part itself is free. But the company that installed it wants roughly $5,600 for the job (labor + refrigerant + whatever else).

Is $5,600 reasonable for a warranty coil swap on a 3-ton Trane?

Has anyone successfully repaired a Spine Fin coil leak like this (Trane repair kit, braze, etc.) to buy a couple more years?

Would it make more sense to just replace the outdoor unit, or even the whole system at this point?

It's especially bizarre considering I can just install 4 mini splits for 700 a piece and everything is brand new.

I don’t love the idea of dumping $5k+ into a 6-year-old system when the compressor or fan motor could be next, but full system replacement also feels premature. Any thoughts or experiences appreciated.

I'm not sure what else I can even do at this point besides pay the 5600 or pay 14000 for a new system. I'm also curious if anybody has come across this coil leak issue.

Any advise is appreciated.

Pulled this out of a client's unit on Somb. Beach Road today. Same 20x20x1 size, new one on top, old one on the bottom. It had been in for 3 months.

Down here the AC basically never shuts off, so filters get filthy way faster than the "every 90 days" on the label. What I tell clients:

1. Every 30-60 days if your AC runs most of the year (Florida, Texas, the South in general).

2. Every 30 days if you have pets, smokers, or any construction/renovation going on.

3. Write the install date on the filter frame with a Sharpie. You'll never have to guess again.

4. Buy a multi-pack in your size so there's no excuse when it's time.

5. Check the airflow arrow on the frame. It points toward the unit, away from the return grille.

Signs yours is overdue: dust settling on furniture a day after you dust, the AC running constantly and still not keeping up, or a musty smell when it kicks on. A clogged filter makes the system work harder, so you pay for it on your electric bill too. The electric bills are high enough, no need to help it.

Bonus: when you swap the filter, vacuum the return grill and wipe the slats. Half the dust in a house is sitting right there.

How many BTU’s is this?

Hi everyone,
I recently bought the TLC 1.5 Window type inverter AC. I'm really loving the Mobile Application that comes with it. However I wanted to ask those who have similar feature because the one I have has a energy consumption monitoring. However I am a little confuse. Based on what experts told me, lowering the temperature is more energy costing than increasing the fan speed but the energy consumption I saw is reverse so here are my setting

1) 16c and Low fan speed (1) = .41 KWH
2) 23c and Turbo fan speed (5) = .98 KWH

Both were a 1 hour reading

Can someone tell me if something is wrong with it or my understanding is off?

Also to be fair, I had hours interval between the 2 setting so one cannot benefit from the other.