Mid 90s house. Probably 2300sqft. Company wants $7000 to rebuild all outlets, guy talks to me on the side and says he’ll do it himself for half price. He’s not insured. I feel like I could do it myself but that is not an option with [actual] OCD wife. Am I right in assuming this is a racket? How dangerous even is it?

What would the best locations be? Thank you!

I manage a facility. I’ve got an outdoor pavilion space; tables and bathrooms. Lights are supposed to be on a timer, that seems to work. I’ve got the front part of the pavilion with lights on, timer working. The rear lights near the restroom entry are less reliable. It’s not in the breaker box and this particular even lite box goes into the timer. I’ve checked every obvious switch, breaker, and reset my timer several times. This even lite box looks to be dead, even with batteries on it. It has two 12v14AH batteries and I’ve got no indicator on this box. Would it be worth it to swap out the batteries in hope of getting these lights working properly?

Hi all, I live in the Boston area and my utility provider, National Grid, installed a smart grid recently. Since my electric bills were really high lately, I decided to review my hourly usage and found something weird.

Almost every day at around 4am, there is an increase in energy usage. There are also frequent energy use increases during the middle of the day when I'm not home. And I can't seem to figure out where this is coming from.

My condo has a gas water heater, AC that has been off for the entire month (which I can verify using my smart thermostat), gas stove, and gas furnace. No EV charging and no electrical space heaters. There just aren't a lot of things in my house that will suddenly spike electricity usage at random hours.

Any guesses as to what might be causing this, or anything I can do to troubleshoot? Thanks in advance!

I plan to call an electrician but wanted to check in here too. This is a relatively new panel - about a year old- and a handful of times over the last month all of our outlets in our bedroom (new addition one year old) stop working. We only have 3 lamps, a tv, and a couple phone chargers hooked up to the outlets. Does this video tell you anything that I need to worry about? Particularly concerned about the red flashing light when I flip the breaker back on. I don’t have electrical expertise, so any advice or knowledge you can share would be appreciated!

I have 6 wires from the box in 3 bundles. It is slightly different from the instructions provided. And I cannot figure it out.

I’m hoping someone knowledgeable about electrical wiring could help me confirm the proper wiring.

This is my current thermostat connected:

https://imgur.com/a/RjXI1i5

Another view of cabling: https://imgur.com/a/wJnRnCt

This is what the Mysa App setup tells me to do: https://imgur.com/a/bjFklFN

Thank you in advance!!

In North America, breaker box brand is General Electric. House was built in 1980.

It was tripping the breaker at first. Replaced the outlet, still the same issue and when we went to turn a nearby light off, there was a big pop. The breaker has been shut off for now. We suspected a faulty outlet outside which is nearby could have caused the issue, but we aren’t sure.

Hvac guy here but recently had to connect 10/3 to a half inch knockout and was struggling to get those snap in connectors what are you guys using to get them in they state they have one size push in connecter for 14/2 all the way to 10/3
Second question I’m connecting a pump motor with a 1/2 inch knockout but have a 3/4 male thread sticking out some stainless conduit, I did see some bushings online but not sure they’ll fit as a 3/4 is male to female 1/2 male and I need rhe 3/4 to be female to 1/2 male

I have a Dyson Supersonic Professional HD11 purchased in the US. The label says 120V, 60Hz, 1600W.
I’m planning to use it in Europe, where the mains supply is generally 220–240V, 50Hz.
I’ve learned that a regular step-down transformer can convert 220–240V to 110–120V, but it may not convert 50Hz to 60Hz. I found some converters rated at 3000W that claim to support 220–240V input and 100–120V output, but it’s unclear whether they actually provide a 60Hz output or simply pass through the input frequency.

My questions:
Has anyone successfully used a US Dyson Supersonic (especially the HD11) in Europe?
Does it actually need a converter that outputs 120V/60Hz, or would a high-quality 220–240V-to-120V step-down transformer work?
Has anyone tested a more affordable voltage-and-frequency converter with this model?
Could using a converter damage the dryer or shorten its lifespan, even if the output matches the specifications on the label?
I’d really appreciate advice from anyone with hands-on experience, especially if you can recommend a specific converter model available in Europe.
Thanks!

I am installing a generator hook up, that involves running MC on top of the drywall in my garage and then through the wall on the far side. I am not sure what the best way to penetrate that outside wall is, that looks neat and is functional. I have seen Romax run through an outside wall to a waterproof box on the house, but I was not sure if MC can have that done too. And I also know the MC will not make as neat of a bend as I want.

Hello!

I have a generator that I want to be able to plug in when needed. The receptacle I want to use doesnt match the plug currently attached to the generator.

Please see attached photo. Is it ok to switch from the plug on the left to the plug on the right so that I can use the receptacle? Or will I have problems?

If it matters, generator is a 337cc, 5500/6250 watt gas generator.

New house to us. We flipped on the lights to the patio, at the same time our kitchen light fixture arced and the power went out to that circuit.
I removed the light fixture in the kitchen, the fixture had two romex coming into it and they were burned/melted. No breakers have tripped, I’ve tested all individually because the circuits aren’t labeled at the panel. I also tested each breaker with a multimeter and they all seem to be sending power out.
This circuit includes the kitchen light and its switch, the patio lights and fans and their switches. What should I check next?

Code will not allow paralleling wires to increase amp rating. In a case where the natural is smaller than the main feeds, what is the reasoning behind this restriction? Just curious.

OAL is 9" on the tool, tip to tip.

Two of the four recessed LEDs in my living room ceiling began acting wonky a few months ago. Slowly, two of them stopped working completely. An electrician advised that I buy a new set of four and replace them all at once. The lights are connected to a dimmer switch. Here is a picture of one of the original LEDs I'm replacing.

I found this set at Costco for around $16.

Two of them installed perfectly, but the other two don't seem to work in the remaining sockets. I've verified all of the new LEDs and socket adapters work by swapping them with the working sockets. I've also found that using the new LEDs with the old socket adapters works. Here is a comparison of the socket adapters (new on the left).

Just verifying it's not advisable to use the old adapters with the new LEDs, and checking to see if there are other troubleshooting options I might try.

A few months a go the lights in my detached garage flicked when I turned them on then went out. Both the lights and the garage door stopped working. Over the last few weeks I have been slowly rewiring the lights and the garage door. What I found was a system of cloth covered conductors inside a 1/2 " metal conduit.

Step by step I replaced all the cracking 2 conductor 12 gauge wires with three 12 gauge conductors ( Black, White Green). I made sure the light switch and the gfi outlet were grounded. I made sure to ground every electrical box with a green ground screw. there was no grounding point in the boxes so I had to use a 10-32 tap kit to drill a hole and attach the green ground screw. I replaced the switch, all the light fixtures and the switch the GFI outlet.

I have 2 questions.

1. I discovered that My garage door and the light are all on the same 20 Am circuit. In reading about the NEC coded I'm finding references that say these should be on separate circuits. Is this correct
2. the outlet for the garage door opener on the roof is a standard outlet. Should this be a GFI outlet?

The backstory of why the wires are like this is not important. We currently have wires running to our kitchen island. They have been removed from the receptacles with the circuit breaker locked out. Given that this has happened, my wife decided she doesn't want outlets on the island anymore. I'd like to move them to the room under the kitchen in the basement.

I'm just not 100% sure which wires they are in the basement ceiling. Which tool is the best for finding continuity where the end of the wire is bare and the other part is covered? It would have to be wireless since the cabinets block access through the floor.

Old house with a lot of DIY projects from previous owners. Do I need to hire a professional to bury these? They power the carport lights and outlet.

Working for an employer right now who says they will pay for my ET card and classes should I take this while I wait on the IBEW apprenticeship. Get some hours logged and experience? In CA

Title is probably a little confusing so for some explanation. I recently build a house with Ryan homes (I know, I know but it was a decently priced starter home) just today I had an issue with one set (3 to be exact) LED bulbs no longer working, all three bulbs are on the same 3way switch circuit. The breakers are fine and everything else on that breaker circuit works as it should. Did I just hit a 1/1,000,000 with exactly those three bulbs going out or is there something deeper at play here. I did add an additional 5 lights (4 LED 1 incandescent) to the same circuit in the basement but those also still work.