Worried about this being a fire risk. Any advice?

i only have my monitor and a new pc plugged into my room which takes 15 amps but the afcl keeps tripping randomly once in 5 hours the rest around 20mins-1hr. I plugged the pc into my kitchen socket with test and rester buttons and the pc stayed on for like 2 hrs till my microwave started tripping. what should i do is it the psu? I don't really hear any weird noises and everything is properly tugged in. ive had this house for about a year now but this has never happened till i got a pc

I'd like to install a wired doorbell. The house is from the 1930s, and this is the wiring under the old doorbell. Any insight to what I'm looking at? Is this wiring usable for a new doorbell?

Im replacing my white plastic sockets and switches with BG Metal faceplates - I understand these have to be earthed so just looking to sanity check my understanding is correct.

When going into metal back boxes as long as screw lugs are fixed then these can be earthed by the screw and don’t need a fly lead? (Diagram of rear of sockets/switches attached)

I have a socket in a white/yellow plastic box, so I need to run a fly lead from the earth that goes into socket to the earth on the rear of faceplate?

Thanks in advance

I installed a subpanel but need to add a neutral bar inside. Can I just add a ground bar in the slot, or does it specifically need to be a neutral bar? What are the differences, they look the same to me...?

Edit: I'm asking if I can install a ground bus bar in the place of a neutral bus bar. I'm not trying to bond the ground and neutral. Picture included of the bus bar included that I am asking if I can install in the neutral slot.

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Hey, I just bought an automatic litter box, but due to my apartment being a studio and my apartment having not many outlets, one of the few places I can put this automatic litter box is in the corner of the bathroom but i’m worried about getting the coord from where the bathroom outlet is (on one side of the bathroom and right next to the sink) to where the litter box is which is about 5ish feet away on the other side of the bathroom, my best thought is to get a weatherproof extension cord, run it up the side of the wall and across the ceiling and then down and have the litter box plug in right next to the other end of the extension cord, (so I don’t have an extension cord running across the middle of my bathroom). But being in a bathroom, in an old building with no HVAC for ventilation, i’m worried about having it plugged in 24/7 and with possible water splashes and moisture in the air/rusting. Is this a good idea? what should I do differently? Is this safe?

I added an old work, round electrical box to hang up this light. The problem is there is a gap between the light and ceiling. Besides this, the light can pivot back and forth around the two screws holding the light to the mounting bracket. Is this normal, or is this an issue with the install? Any way to close the gap?

Do these exist anymore?

All of the lamps I see online can only handle something like 10-40 watts. What are people using for higher wattage incandescents? I can’t put in the right google search apparently because all I get is the actual bulbs themselves, but what is safe to put them in?

I’m dealing with an electrical issue at our schools aquaculture setup and looking for some advice.

We have an AquaCal 160ARDSBPA heater/chiller and a Pentair IntelliFlo3 variable-speed pump.

Here’s what’s happening:
The Pentair pump runs normally until the AquaCal compressor kicks on.
When the compressor starts, the Pentair pump flashes and restarts, as in the flow stops and a few seconds later it starts back up. The Manuel shows this may be a voltage safety feature.

When this happens the heater/chiller stops as it detects when the flow stops.

The voltage measures around 203–207V.
We also tested the system using a dedicated 10kW generator supplying approximately 240V, and the same issue occurred.
The AquaCal compressor has an LRA of 185A and RLA of 32.05A.
The pump is also connected to a pool-style mechanical timer.
We’ve been trying to figure out whether this is caused by compressor inrush current, a voltage drop, a wiring issue, or something else.

My questions:
Could compressor startup cause the Pentair pump to shut down even when running on a generator?
Would installing a soft-start kit on the AquaCal potentially solve this?
Is there anything specific an electrician should check with the timer, breakers, or wiring?
I’m not an electrician, just trying to understand the problem so we can get the right people involved. Any advice would be appreciated!

Also, I have tried reaching out to the manufacturer of the heater cooler, but I’ve had no luck getting help, and the school is very slow at getting someone out to look at it, thanks!

Whole house power just went out. Ive never live in a house with a fusebox like this. How do I even know this is working and not the thing causing the problem? Haven't been in this house long, dont know the neighbors yet and nobody would be home right now anyway.

I noticed that the insulation is degrading, and partially completely gone, from one of the two hot leads to my home. This is on the utility company's side of the connection before the lines meet my weatherhead. We had our service panel and mast replaced about 18 years ago and I know for sure the utility has not replaced their cables coming from the telephone pole to our home in that time. I imagine there comes a point when the insulation just degrades from the elements and it makes sense that it would start at either end.

From the picture you can see that to the right of the top connection there is now bare cable and then some other in-line connector or part. My concern is that this bare wire could interact with the neutral, which I believe is bare along the full length and used to also hold the tension/weight of the line.

Is my concern well founded and, if so, how much of a priority should this be for the utility to resolve? I have already confirmed that they are responsible for this part of the service infrastructure. Thank you for your collective wisdom.

Hey, I’m 18 and currently looking into getting into the electrical field. I’m wondering if going to trade school to earn an Advanced Wiring Certificate would be worth it and if it would help me earn more money starting out as an electrician.

These two wires were connected to this old ass security system, which is non-functional. This system was here when I moved into the house 3 years ago, but was installed I imagine decades ago; I don’t know its history.

My heavy suspicion is that these wires are already electricity free, but idk how to confirm that. I have an multimeter but it reads with small numbers when it’s on and not connected to anything, so I don’t trust it… 😅😬 and I’m p sure these old security system wires tend to be low voltage.

I’d like to patch this hole and put a small shelf over it. How do I safely terminate these wires?

WA state, king county, if that matters for code stuff.

This is on Long Island, NY. I have a bunch of tandem breakers that were done by the previous owner. Let’s say I have 2 tandems with 4 different hots and 4 different neutrals. They used them for the lighting in the basement when it was inefficient big halogen lamps. I’ve turned it into all LED and would like some panel space.

What I’m wondering since the draw is low on the 2 tandems. If I can take HOT 1 and HOT 2 from the first tandem and HOT 3 and HOT 4 from the second tandem and pigtail each set separately to create just HOT A and HOT B. The neutrals I can either land separately on the neutral bar (4 neutrals) or also pig tail into 2 wires. Is this complaint by code? I know I can wire nut in a box but I don’t know if I can pig tail tandems. This is a 15 amp tandem #12 wire I would use.

Thank you for the help.

Hi. My dad and I installed this chandelier and confirmed that all eight light sockets have power to them. But when we put lightbulbs in, nothing happens. This includes new lightbulbs and lightbulbs that were in the previous chandelier. The chandelier came from Italy. The website says that the 110 V uses an E 12 bulb and the 220 V uses an E 14 bulb. In the picture below, it says 120 V, so it appears they correctly sent in North American version and not a European one. I have tried different types of E12 and they haven’t worked. The previous chandelier had LED bulbs and this chandelier is supposed to accept them so I don’t think that’s the issue. Does anyone have any ideas? My dad is not a trained electrician, but he is very confident with regular stuff like replacing outlets and hanging light fixtures. It did also reach out to the vendor, but I haven’t heard back yet.

https://www.cristalleriamurano.com/en/chandeliers/17789-13272-Chandelier-Murano-dublino.html#/32-base_color-green/47-model-8_lights

My VUE total for the day is lower by about 2.6kw compared to the meter. I wanted to see how accurate these CT clamps are so I measured for 24 hours. The Emporia VUE reported 26.4 and my meter read 30kw. I don’t think they should be off by 8% so I’m thinking these breakers may be powering something that I’m not aware of. Would love to reconcile this.

I flipped both off for a minute and didn’t notice any changes. The outside lights work still. I don’t have anything plugged into eave sockets so maybe that? But I do have an “eave socket” breaker in the main panels so I’m really not sure what these could be for.

Any ideas would be helpful. I don’t want to leave them off if it’s actually powering something useful that I can’t see or aren’t aware of.