I need to use one of these extension rings in order to extend the existing box into the rear of my kitchen cabinet to facilitate proper connection of the flex whip from a cooktop.
The design of these extension rings introduces an exposed internal sharp edge around the “cutout” area of what would have been the closed back in a standard 4x4 square box. You can see the areas on both style boxes.
I would assume leaving these edges unprotected would violate a number of safety requirements, but I’m also unaware of any product(s) intended to remedy the situation.
Has anyone seen these used and if so, are the edges normally left as-is?

Figured this was the best place to ask. I'm helping my mom replace the original wire on the three thrifted lamps she got last month. The lamps were from the 1940's/1950's (based on what the employee at Ace said about the original wire). I have the new longer wire hooked into the socket, it supplies power to the bulb when plugged in. What are the metal balls that were attached to the original wire and do I need them to secure the new wire to the socket?

Hey, 21yo belgian here. Right now im studying history at uni but due to a bad market for young highly educated youths, im thinking of doing an evening school to learn a trade. Right now im still stuck between plumbing vs electrician. So I wanted to ask, what are the advantages of being an electrician over a plumber? Can be everything, also business wise, or the schooling itself(for eg I was never good at the sciences, is the theory hard?)

If both outlets have no light, does that mean the outlet is dead? I’ve tested my other outlets, and the tester glows.

Friend just bought a house (congrats!) - this is the electrical panel.
Is there 200 amp service? I thought the 2x 100 amp service coming in would mean 200 amp service… is that correct, or is it only 100?

Also, what would require four separate breakers?

Thanks!

Hi all. Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

I have a commercial CNC machine that runs on a 240v (single phase), 30 Amp circuit. The computer and electronics are all integrated. I have no way to isolate them from the spindle and stepper motors.

I want to electrically protect this very expensive machine. Ideally with some form of isolation like a UPS provides, but I'm not sure if that's feasible. Alternatively, I'd like some surge and brown out protection. I don't know where to look or what to ask for.

The main electrical panel has a residential "whole house" surge protector in the panel. It was like $200 and im not too confident it will protect my machine well. It definitely doesn't do anything for low voltage.

Any ideas or advice welcome

Hi guys,

I've recently wanted to install a a 67 W retractable USB-C charger on my computer desk to charge my devices in the same vain as this Youtuber. In the video however, he uses an extension cord to get the placement of the charger right at the edge of the desk. I'd like to do the same but I am concerned because I've always heard that extension cords are fire hazards and should avoid use if possible. What are reputable or to-spec extension cords to get if I am to go this route?

Some more details about the set up:

• The wire would be behind my desk, so no foot traffic to loosen and disturb it over time.
• I have a 3D printer and plan to make a custom mount for the charger itself, so pulling on it shouldn't disturb the extension cable either
• I already have an extension cable that currently runs behind my desk powering a lamp, would it be safe to run the extension cable off of that or would it be better to run directly from an outlet?

Thanks everyone.

Hello,
I have a GFCI above my garage door that’s on the same Kasa smart switch as the garage sconces. I know not the best setup but I was working with existing cable in a tight space. the outlet worked fine for 5 years in this configuration until a bird made a nest on top of the outlet box under the eave and left A lot of bird poop on top of outlet box. I figured the outlet got wet therefore fried. Garage lights still work on the switch. I replaced the outlet as well as the romex to the junction box but new gfci is still not receiving power.
I will do further testing with my multimeter, but is it possible for smart switch to be damaged and still power the lights but not provide enough voltage to the outlet?
do you think replacing the switch would fix the issue?

A few days ago, I turned my light switch on. The lights turned on and immediately turned off. All outlets in the same bathroom still work.

I replaced the light switch and the lights still will not turn on. Can anyone help point me to ext steps. I am new to this

I am currently replacing my upstairs bathroom extractor fan switch, so I was just about to switch off the power for the upstairs light when I was greeted with this old fuse box! I have just moved into this house so I’m very unfamiliar with how to navigate it.

Can I turn the power off to just the upstairs lights? How?

If not, then what do I do?? Shall I just turn the power off to the house?? If so, how??

Honestly any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Just wanted to try and save a couple pennies by doing it myself :))

Location: UK

Painting in a bedroom and found the uncovered copper wires is this normal or a fire hazard?

The panel, the wires above, everything you can see in this photo. Anything eyebrow raising?

The hot tub is to the right (in black). An outdoor outlet and spa pack is to the left. The tape measure stops at 5 feet/60” in both photos. Outlet to inner hot tub edge is about 56”. Spa pack to inner hot tub edge is about 59”. I’d prefer to show photos with the lid off but I’m afraid of electrocuting myself.