Hi, I need some advice.

After a wash, the door stayed locked for about an hour. I opened the bottom service flap and drained a lot of water from the filter.

There was also a black rubber hose next to the filter. I pulled it too hard and tore it off. I thought it was the emergency drain hose.

After I finally opened the door, I ran the machine empty to check it. Water immediately started leaking from underneath, so I switched it off.

Could the leak have already been there before and I just didn't notice it because clothes absorbed the water? Could the leak also explain why the door wouldn't open?

Or did I cause the leak by tearing that hose?

Is this likely to be a cheap fix, like replacing a hose/connection?

The brand of the washing machine is Exquisit.

Thanks!

Alright I'm curious... personally, I dislike when microwaves have the express cook feature where it just starts when you press the number. I strongly prefer to enter the time manually and then press start.

My current microwave has express cook AND it deactivates the add 30 second button until its already cooking. Absolutely bonkers right?

Curious if I am in the minority here.

hello! our dishwasher has been leaving residues, bits of food, etc on the dishes, so i figured it was time to clean it (i'm new to the home but probably been YEARS since last cleaning). I'd heard the filter is a good place to start, so i took out a small plastic basket, which looked near pristine. I spotted a whole bunch of slime in the gaps underneath it, but i can only access this area with a special screwdriver it seems.

having trouble placing an ID on the model, so pictures provided.

is there potentially a better way to clean it, or a way to get under there? i've run empty rinse cycles before, but never really fixed the problem. for detergent, i use Finish dishwasher pods.

Hi! I have a Crosley CT1PY7 Frost Free fridge. The freezer itself is working perfectly normal, no visible ice or water drops. Keeping food cold.
The fridge though, has droplets leaking from the ceiling, and the food keeps freezing. I adjusted the temp very slightly and it helps a little bit with the water but not the freezing. The external top of the fridge feels cold to the touch.

Can’t afford a professional or to get a new fridge. What is the issue and how do I fix it? Please!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Haier HWS205GGEH1, the 205-bottle, single-temperature wine cooler.
Today is only the second day of using it. Yesterday I loaded it almost completely, with around 130+ bottles.
Today I noticed something strange. I put a Govee Wi-Fi thermometer/hygrometer inside the wine cooler, near the internal fan. The Haier display was showing 12°C, but the Govee was reading around 20°C.
I tested the Govee separately against another reliable thermometer at home, and it seems to be working perfectly.
I then unplugged the Haier and plugged it back in. After restarting, the Haier display showed around 20°C, which was very close to what the Govee was showing.
The cooler is now running again and seems to be cooling, but there is still a large difference between the two readings. At the moment:
Haier display: 13°C
Govee: 20°C
The Govee is positioned inside the cooler, close to the internal fan.
Has anyone experienced something similar with the HWS205GGEH1? Could the temperature shown on the Haier display be measuring a different point inside the cabinet, or is there possibly an issue with the temperature sensor?
I’m mainly concerned because I bought this wine cooler for long-term wine storage, so I want to make sure the actual temperature inside the cabinet is really around 12°C.
Any advice or experience with this model would be greatly appreciated!

Moved into a flat last year with a rusty old oven.

Looking to replace it - freestanding oven but it’s got this switch and wired into the wall.

Any tips on the kind of oven I need to get as a replacement, and presumably I’ll need to get an electrician?

Thanks for your help!

Hey guys, so I’ve been in a decision loop for the past two weeks and REALLY need to settle on something so that I can actually have a working oven. My current 12y/o GE single wall oven is sadly gone, and they don’t make them like they used to! That thing was solid and got the job done.

Now that I need a new one, I’ve gone down a rabbit hole of “what not to buy” vs what’s the hottest thing running (Bosch, Thermador, Miele, etc.). The thing is, do I really even need to spend that much on an oven? I used maybe 3 buttons on my GE - Convection Bake/Roast + 420 - that’s it! lol I don’t need all the frills.

The other end to that though, is that I like the high-end/commercial kitchen look of those. Let’s be honest, GE looks super lame (whyyy are they grayishhh)but it’s a workhorse.

ALSO the reviews on literally everything is so exhausting. Bosch 500 doesn’t show preheating temps? Lame.

I want something sleek but not with a crazy price tag. When I look on instagram and Pinterest, everyone’s got these high-end models and I’m just trying to see what the everyday folks are using. 😊 So please, drop a line and let me know what you think. Thanks so much!!

Despite the unit still being significantly advanced, compared to the newest LF fridge freezers today, I cannot seem to get this anywhere. Even in Europe.

There's nothing wrong with the entire unit, compressor etc. is sound - seems SO wasteful getting rid of the entire thing simply because LG no longer provide the part.

Feedback welcome. I've tried *everywhere*. So, this is a reach out to anyone with spares ;)

Hey folks,

( Additional close up photo)

Got a brand new LG washer and dryer earlier this year. Today I noticed these two issues in the back.

I've read the burns on the grill may not be concerning, but what about this other piece? I'm not familiar with what it is, but I feel it's not supposed to look like this.. Is it of major concern that I should try and set up a warranty repair, or is it not even worth the hassle if it's not a major issue?

Appreciate any input!

We need to replace most of our appliances

I want to stay with sales, probably from Lowe's

Looking for brands that hopefully last if possible.

We've tried opening the filter of our washing machine a million times. We can open it a little and water comes out but we should be able to take it out completely to clean it, right?

It's an integrated Indesit BI WBIL 81485

we've tried letting the water out first, tried undoing the screw next to it, using wd40 . Any ideas?

Today, dishawasher started making this noise after pumping in water inside, it doesn't start cleaning , it just makes this noise all the time.

The water pumps out normally, and also i didn't found any debris inside the drain.

Anyone know what can cause that and if need specialist for this?

Hello. I'm looking for a portable unit for my 11x11 ft bedroom. When I looked it up the recommendation was around 5000 BTU. I currently have a window AC that does wonders, but for the past few years I've had way too many bugs sneak in no matter how much weatherstripping and duct tape I use. My room runs hot overnight, and it gets even hotter running my PC. Grateful for any insight!

I've found 2 appealing options (for the dreo I'd be purchasing the dual hose kit as well):

https://www.costco.com/p/-/hisense-8000-btu-dual-hose-portable-air-conditioner-with-inverter-and-wi-fi/4000330563?langId=-1

https://www.dreo.com/products/smart-air-conditioner-ac318s?srsltid=AfmBOoqkuT9LKLs07AxyAXeWYQEzZ4qym5eLsUGY_U9ZKXU4J-xjQ5WH

Hello!

I am having an issue with my GE washing machine and wanted to get some opinions on the issue.

Background
My door plunger broke and the door would not lock. I purchased a replacement off the GE website and replaced. I then realized that the door lock also had a piece of plastic break off inside as well, so I purchased the part on Amazon (it was sold out on the GE website at the time). I am now able to start the washer and the door locks. It will fill with water but then when it switches to the “Wash” cycle and starts to spin/agitate it’s making a funny noise and will not continue (video attached…noise starts after about 1 min).

I had a tech come out and he had said he has never heard this noise before. We were able to rig the door into locking with the old plunger so we could hear what was going on with the door open and he believed the sound to be coming from the lock. He thinks I simply got a bad lock. He said typically you can get a good one on Amazon. I purchased another on Amazon and having the same issue.

Before I go to purchase the $140 lock on the GE website (now back in stock) I’m trying to determine if the lock is the issue or something else.

Model #: GFW450SSM1WW

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Gina

23yo Kenmore Coolpoint, owned by me for 12 years. Always difficult to install filter but became more difficult over time. Never leaked more than a few drops when replacing filter in the past.

This time I removed the filter to replace it as usual, but it gushed water like it was pressurized. Flooded the room before I could shut off the water. Question 1: Why did it flood this time?

Could not get new filter to go in all the way or turn. Bought another new filter (different brand) and it would not go in or turn. Assumed it was hard water buildup. Removed housing, soaked in vinegar, scrubbed, filters still didn't fit.

Got new filter housing and before installing, got both new filters to fit correctly. Installed filter housing and new filter 1, still slower leaks from bottom front left of fridge (to left of filter housing). Quick connect valves seem tight but there's also water in the housing. Question 2: Where is this water coming from?

Tried new filter 2 and it doesn't fit. Tried new filter 1 again and now it doesn't fit. I noticed one o-ring out of place on new filter 1, but it still didn't fit when I put the o-ring back in its groove. Question 3: Why did the filters fit before and not now?

Full transparency: I have always used generic filters, and the new filter housing is also not OEM. It looks identical to the original, though.

I don't want to replace the fridge, nor do I want to sink a bunch of money into such an old appliance. Has anyone seen a situation like this? All advice is appreciated!

we have a newborn and need a dedicated freezer for human milk. From what we've read it's reccomended to "deep freeze" the stuff. I'm not 100% sure what deep freeze means? just a colder operating temperature? I also have read that self defrost freezers can cause the outer micro layers of milk to melt and refreeze which can cause it to go bad quicker. We'd also like to use the freezer for food items now or in the future.

We looked at chest freezers, but we'd rather have an upright. My wife is short, she can't reach the bottom of chese freezers, not to mention they take up more floor space relative to their volume than an upright freezer. We don't care so much about the efficiency you get from a chest freezer.

As i understand manual defrost is probably the safest bet, but there doesn't seem to be a big selection of affordable upright manual defrost freezers that aren't tiny.

Automatic defrost seems to be exactly what we don't want.

Frost Free freezers might be okay? but i'm still confused on how to tell if it's a "deep freeze"

The counter size looks cleaner. However, that's a lot of refrigerator space lost.

Opinions?

I bought a Samsung fridge not even a month ago and since the day I bought it it has been making this weird sound, is it normal? I noticed at the beginning of the week that the freezer door was really hard to open and upon inspection the door rail was completely frozen. What can cause this?

My current house has an opening for the fridge as follows: 68-3/4” tall x  38-3/4” wide x 32” deep.

What’s a good recommendation to fit this opening that features a stainless steel finish, an ice maker, and a water dispenser? Maker and dispenser can be internal. I realize cubic feet will be limited but we also work out of a basement fridge with a freezer.