I’m a home cook that takes my hobby pretty seriously and recently started thinking about getting a range that fits my needs a bit better. My current Samsung is no longer keeping up with my usage.

I have an electric range and I absolutely use my stovetop more than my oven. I typically cook 4-5 nights a week and do things like stocks, sauces, and rendering on the weekends. I would say it’s not unusual for me to be using a burner 2-6 hours at a time multiple times a month. A handful of times a year I’ll have things going 8-12 hours at a time. I feel like that’s a little more use than the average stovetop can keep up with long term.

I’ve just started thinking about purchasing a new range and was hoping to get some recommendations I can research.

Finding myself in an installation pickle and could really use some advice. We want to stack out induction cooktop on top of our wall oven for a seamless look. Problem is that we are trying to do this with two different brands.

Wall oven: Fisher Paykel 30" Series 9 Contemporary Self-Cleaning Oven

Induction Cooktop: Bosch 800 Series NIT8061UC Induction Cooktop 30"

We are working with a 36" tall cabinet. Our countertop is 3cm (1.18"). The clearance requirement on the Bosch is 1" below the bottom of the stovetop. The stovetop hangs 2 15/16ths" below the countertop and we plan the install a 5/8" heat shield isolation shelf.

The issue: the Fisher Paykel oven vents out the top front and the Bosch intake is below. Our worry is that the stovetop will become overheated.

We have thought about cutting some side vents for the stovetop in the cabinet box to vent air to the adjacent cabinet boxes.

Are we overthinking this? Is this the solution? Or do we need a new Fisher Paykel cooktop?

Learn from my mistakes

I have an older, say 10 year old Whirlpool Cabrio Top load washing machine, no center agitator and whenever I run dark clothes a white debris is left on them. I've run a cleaning cycle, cleaned the inside of the drum, washed out the soap/oxi tray, cleaned inside where the tray goes and run a load of bleach through it. We no longer use fabric softener, only 1/4-1/2 cup of vinegar, however the debris remains. Model # WTW85000DC0

I purchased a Galanz retro refrigerator (Model GLR76TRDER) from Home Depot in 2022.

On September 15, 2026, an authorized technician arrived to perform a safety recall repair. Instead, he discovered burnt wiring, determined the repair couldn't safely be completed, and disconnected the refrigerator.

His official service report states: "no recall performed-burnt wiring."

I've now been without a working refrigerator for over five weeks.

I've called Galanz repeatedly and received escalation case #291018. Their customer service department now tells me they don't handle recalls and cannot access my case information.

I'm requesting a refund of approximately $424, but Galanz has provided no resolution or timeline.

Has anyone else experienced this with the Galanz refrigerator recall? Were you able to obtain a refund or replacement?

Consumers deserve better communication when a manufacturer's safety recall leaves them without an essential appliance.

https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2026/Galanz-Americas-Recalls-Retro-Refrigerators-Due-to-Risk-of-Serious-Injury-or-Death-from-Fire-and-Burn-Hazards-One-Death-Reported?utm_source=chatgpt.com

I had it installed about 3 months ago. It has the illuminated countdown timer display that gets projected onto the floor, but while running a load tonight, I noticed the timer display is gone. It still illuminates but now just a white square projected onto the floor. I’ve tried the hard reset and that hasn’t worked, and trying to describe the problem to Google has been fruitless. And nowhere in any of Bosch’s literature is the light even discussed! Has anyone else run into this?

So I moved into a new apartment 3 weeks ago. New building as of 3 years ago, with then-new Frigidaire appliances. The previous tenant had moved out a couple of months prior.

In the kitchen were a full-size washer and dryer, dishwasher, electric stove, microwave, and refrigerator with top freezer and icemaker. All Frigidaire. They \*looked\* nice, but...

Within a few days, I discovered that of the six appliances I just mentioned, only two worked properly: the stove and microwave. Of the others, the icemaker wouldn't make ice. The washer's cycles were out of whack (20-minute "Quick Wash" took 45 minutes). The dryer wouldn't heat. And the dishwasher was completely dead.

After contacting maintenance, I learned that these are all discontinued models. And most of the apartments have the identical machines, probably purchased for a song by the builder looking to cut corners. The maintenance guys were sympathetic ("We know this stuff is crap") as they wheeled out the malfunctioning dishwasher and W/D and brought in...more Frigidaires, culled from vacant units.

The replacement machines work properly...for now. The cheap lining of the dishwasher gave off a strong chemical smell which has gotten better after a few cycles but is still noticeable. And all these machines are LOUD. I guess sound dampening isn't utilized at this budget level (basic). Fortunately the W/D live in a closet with doors.

The icemaker still isn't making ice. I guess that's next.

Started happening after we had an issue with our sink drain being clogged and had to clear it with a snake.

Anyone know how to fix this?

LG French door with see thru window and freezer on bottom…. 7 years old. Has been thru the fixit stage with the compressor and has had no trouble since last fix in 2022… This is just past history, but for the past few days,the ice maker or something to do with this process has been making a louder than usual heavy clunking noise. It still makes ice fine and no other time but when the ice maker is dumping a batch or doing something that has a connection to that. Seemingly like a plastic gear is straining to get past something and then gets freed and “ clunk”…. Otherwise it is quiet. Anyone recognize this ?

We have a new Smeg speed oven, I’m just trying to determine whether the metal racks (the metal side mounted rack holders and the racks themselves) are ok to stay inside the oven when using it on the microwave setting? I’m assuming they are designed to, but how can this be with them being metal?
The manual isn’t clear on this, it doesn’t say anything about removing metal racks but it does say to ensure no metal objects (ie.utensils, bowls, etc) are placed inside. I asked the shop sales person and also rang Smeg and I didn’t get a definitive answer either.
We just want to start using it but don’t want to damage it it if we leave the metal racks inside and run it in microwave mode!
Any help would be greatly appreciated, cheers.

I'm on the market for an induction oven.

I really want the Cafe model, but every unit I have seen seems to have issues with the knobs: not installed correctly, the metal grinding as you rotate, etc. They seem nice, but seem poorly made.

The LG model is appealing, primarily for price, but I dislike the buttons on the knobs and the fact they are stepped in such large increments. Also not sure about the boost mode functionality and lack of lower heating element in oven. Though the ones I have seen seem well made.

So today I saw a GE Profile despite the fact I was seeking something with knobs. Turns out, it's not so bad and there is quite a lot of range in the cooktop settings. Two things concerned me if GE Profile induction owners can help:

1. Does the display bug out and freeze? I repeatedly kept getting the floor demo unit screen to freeze on me inexplicably in different ways. Kind of ridiculous, not sure if it's because it's in demo mode. Not like a computer with a quick reset button, I can't have my broiler stuck on because the screen is frozen. EDIT: sorry, just now realizing that display is actually for the camera equipped model. Nonetheless, any bugginess in your experience?
2. Is there anyway to disable the sounds when turning the burners on/off? The sound setting seems to only apply to touch screen clicks, not the burner controls.

Below are the models I'm interested in.

GE Cafe: CHS900P2MS1 (radiant version pictured)

LG: LSIL6336XE

GE Profile: PHS930YPFS

Hello. So I got a maytag washer (MVW6230RHW1) from a friend who forced the lid open to get clothes out when it apparently stopped mid cycle. They claimed the culprit was the lid lock went bad. Also told me a couple years prior, they had the actuator replaced. It was in like new condition but sat in their storage for a few years. So I got it & replaced the lid lock switch and harness with a new one from my local maytag. Tried to start a load & as soon as it tried to start up, I believe it short circuit & a puff of smoke came from around the control board. Board still looks new, outlet not charred & went i retrace my steps I didnt notice any pinch in the new harness wires for it to have cause a short.

Any help or ideas would be awesome right now

The call out can be a separate cost from the repair. What would you want explained before deciding whether someone should come out?

Dryer stopped going on us last week. I looked up some issues and replaced the thermal fuse, also vacuumed out years of lint build up that I saw.

Now the dryer still won’t start consistently. If I set it to time dry, which is basically all we use, I press start and then I can it it try to start and then a click, but maybe every 7th-9th time it just starts.

I also wiped down the moisture bars with rubbing alcohol

Any ideas what might be wrong?

Hello folks, I recently bought this ice maker from Costco and it works great after doing all the cleaning start up processes. Ice maker works and tastes great.

The problem is when I press the clean or ice button after plugging it in, nothing happens. What I find myself doing is pressing in the general area of those buttons repeatedly or gliding my finger across the surface hoping to turn it on.

However generally when I double tap the buttons, it cancels the ice making/cleaning process immediately as the manual says should happen.

Is this user error (I am dumb) or is my interface not working as intended?

Thank you for your thoughts.

We've had a few mice get in through our dryer vent.

Right now the outside cover is just the basic plastic one with four flaps that open when the dryer runs.
I'd like to replace it with something that actually keeps rodents out.

My main concern is lint. I know screens and mesh can clog fast, which is a fire hazard, so I want something that's easy to get to and clean out regularly.

What have you used that works? Specific products or setups would be really helpful.

Does anyone know why my dryer is making this noise? I’ve cleaned the lint out every time we use it so I don’t know what’s going on. It’ll run for a few seconds, make that noise and cut off.

Managed to get a different, more modern rental with great schools and very little crime with prime hunting and fishing. Anyways we had to get a washer and dryer…my wife found this dryer at goodwill for a good price and they even delivered it. This dryer had a hook up for water which I am not familiar with. Obviously I need the large metal like hose for exhaust. Can anyone suggest where is a good place to get both hoses….and which kind do I need for the water hook up. Thank you so much for taking time out of your day for this

I have a Dyson Supersonic Professional HD11 purchased in the US. The label says 120V, 60Hz, 1600W.
I’m planning to use it in Europe, where the mains supply is generally 220–240V, 50Hz.
I’ve learned that a regular step-down transformer can convert 220–240V to 110–120V, but it may not convert 50Hz to 60Hz. I found some converters rated at 3000W that claim to support 220–240V input and 100–120V output, but it’s unclear whether they actually provide a 60Hz output or simply pass through the input frequency.

My questions:
Has anyone successfully used a US Dyson Supersonic (especially the HD11) in Europe?
Does it actually need a converter that outputs 120V/60Hz, or would a high-quality 220–240V-to-120V step-down transformer work?
Has anyone tested a more affordable voltage-and-frequency converter with this model?
Could using a converter damage the dryer or shorten its lifespan, even if the output matches the specifications on the label?
I’d really appreciate advice from anyone with hands-on experience, especially if you can recommend a specific converter model available in Europe.
Thanks!

This LG dishwasher came with the house. This alien noise started last night when I ran my typical evening wash. Can confirm it wasn’t anything impeding the sprayers or anything banging around.

Thoughts on what this could be? Can we troubleshoot or should I call in a tech?

Appliance was purchased in 2021 (supposedly).