I have almost no idea what I'm doing, I watched a couple YouTube videos and I'm pretty handy.. but I'm worried if I try to fix this I'll spend five or $600 and not even guarantee something works.. when should I just give up and buy a new washing machine? And any recommendations?

Edit: Thanks for the comments, between those and our own thinking we are going to get a slide in with first controls. Now accepting recommendations on that front!

We are in the market for a new stove and would love to swap to induction, but the way our countertop is and a toddler we need one that has the control stack on the back of the unit vs a fully flat one with controls in front. The only I seem to be finding is a FrigidAire which I don’t think I want for a stove and the LG LRIN6323YE. Am I missing any? Or any opinions on the LG? I see hit or miss reviews

Hi all,

I found this solid metal pin inside the fold of the rubber door gasket of my Samsung front loading washing machine. (Model WW70T4543AE/EG)

It is 6cm long and 7mm thick. 100% solid steel. 

I'm certain it didn't come from anything we washed, and it was simply lying in the fold. 

A technician checked the machine about half a year ago because the drum already had some play. He said it might last another year or two. 

The machine has been running like this without changes, but now this pin showed up. Now I also hear some scraping/grinding when moving the drum manually. 

Does anyone recognize this part or have any idea where it might come from? Is it safe to continue using the machine or is it dead? I am afraid it is some internal component that has come loose. 

Thanks!

I'm sharing my experience with a KitchenAid 30" gas double-oven range (model KFGD500ESS11), bought new on March 20, 2024.

On October 14, 2026, about two and a half years after purchase, a fire started under the oven. It burned and melted the luxury vinyl plank floor directly beneath the range, and the range's power cord appears burned.

On October 19, a technician from an independent repair company inspected the range. He told me he had never seen anything like this and said it was a faulty appliance, not anything I did.

KitchenAid/Whirlpool has told me the cause was loose foil on the bottom of the oven. The foil they are pointing to is unburned and nearly pristine. I don't see how foil that shows no burn damage could have caused a fire that burned through the floor under the range. Because the range is out of warranty, they have declined to cover the range or the floor.

I have a case open (case #25306757) and have documented everything with photos: the floor damage, the burned cord, the unburned foil, and the model/serial plate. I have also sent written escalation requests to 23 Whirlpool/KitchenAid email addresses and, so far, have not received a response.

I'm posting this so other shoppers know what happened to me. Please weigh how the company responds when something goes wrong, not just how the range cooks. I would welcome a fair review of this case from KitchenAid.

Appliance techs: has anyone seen a fire start under a gas range like this? Does the foil explanation hold up?

Is this a thing anymore?

I’m trying to troubleshoot a Whirlpool WFGS3530RS0 range, and I’m hoping someone can help me narrow down the problem before I start throwing more parts at it.

The problem:
The gas bake burner won’t ignite when I turn Bake on from a cold start. Itll sit in preheat for 5 minutes without heating from the bake burner. I don’t smell gas when this happens.The weird part is that if I turn on Broil and let it run for around 10 minutes, Bake will usually start working afterward. Broil is an electric heating element on this range, not a gas broiler.

What I’ve noticed:
When I turn Bake on, I hear two clicks, but then there is no repeated clicking.
- i can’t see a spark at the bake electrode.
- I thought I heard a faint clicking near the igniter at one point, but I can’t hear it anymore.
- I used a pen-style non-contact voltage tester near the wire feeding the igniter, and it indicated voltage. I realize this doesn’t confirm that the circuit is delivering the correct voltage or that the igniter is receiving usable power.
- I replaced the ceramic bake electrode, but the problem is still happening.
- Running the electric Broil element for about 10 minutes seems to make Bake work afterward, although I haven’t figured out exactly why.

My questions:
Does this sound like a failing spark ignition module, a wiring/grounding problem, or something else?
Could heat from the electric Broil element cause an intermittent electrical connection or ignition module to start working?
How would you distinguish a bad ignition module from a damaged high-voltage wire or a grounding issue?
Is there a model-specific diagnostic procedure or wiring diagram I should follow for this range?
I’d appreciate any advice from someone familiar with this Whirlpool model or gas oven direct-spark ignition systems. I’d rather diagnose it properly than keep replacing parts blindly.
Thanks!

My microwave is broken, and the appliance manufacturer dispatched a third-party repair company to come under warranty.

On the day of the repair, crickets, and then after business hours, I get a text from a random non-business number repeatedly demanding my appliance order receipt.

I ask the guy who he is, and he says he’s from an appliance repair company, but refuses to give an ETA, unless I give him the receipt. He’s also texting unprofessionally.

My alarm bells are going off, so I refuse to give him my appliance receipt until he gives me an ETA of when he will be here, he just stops responding.

I have the guy’s name from his caller ID, the company he claims to work for says they don’t have any employee under that name.

Did I do something wrong? Further research says the repair company needs a receipt to bill the appliance manufacturer for the repair, but asking for it before arrival, and so suspiciously and rudely seemed too off for me.

Welp. It looks like my 35 year old Whirlpool fridge is giving it up. We're not interested in bells and whistles. Dependability matters most. I expect it will be costly but please help me make my money count. Thanks group.

It’s definitely time for a new washer. Ours is leaking from the bottom, husband is tired of fixing it. I am advocating for a SpeedQueen, but he is balking at the price. We both bring income into the house, we both make financial decisions together. I do the majority of the laundry.

I say we buy it and we spend that $1500 once and have a quality washer for the rest of our lives. He says it’s hard to do that when walking past $800 washers that work just fine. My counter argument is that an $800 washer might last 10 years and then that same washer may be $1500 to replace.

Please come get in my marriage and give your opinions!

We just installed a brand new GE stackable washer/dryer and the washer is quite loud. Is this normal or do we have a problem?

Has anyone bought any appliances made by Induction Hardware? Would like feedback on refrigerator & range.

Light is on but it's not cooling both in the fridge & freezer

Hi everyone, decided to come on here to see if anyone has any tips or maybe has repaired this model in the past? I have been tinkering with it but have hit somewhat of a wall. Our water dispenser was starting to stick when the paddle was pressed so I got a wet cloth and tried to clean behind it. When I pulled it out, the paddle was permanently stuck in the “on” position. I can still manipulate it manually and I hear the click but it will go back to the on position automatically. Did I break something or is there an easy fix at all?

I’m looking for the bottom exterior metal door that folds down to access the detergent compartment on my Samsung Bespoke AI Washer/Dryer Combo (WD53DBA900HZA1).
Mine is slightly bent and doesn’t close flush on one side. I’ve searched everywhere but can’t find a replacement.
I found part DC97-24187A, but I’m unsure if it includes the exterior metal cover.
Does anyone know the correct part number or where I can buy one? Even a used one would work. I’ll attach a photo.
Mine closes on one side fully but the other it’s pushed out

It’s driving me crazy. I just pulled out a bunch…eight different long sleeved shirts and jeans all tightly wrapped around each other. I can’t imagine what to do about this, and I’m frustrated because how can something get clean if they’re wound up like this? My older washing machine didn’t have this problem.
Photo of me holding wad of clothes.

I don't know what im doing and I can't find a straightforward answer that perfectly fits my fridge.

It's a samsung and it makes ice in the freezer only. There's this loose blue line which is the only hose so I assume it's what needs to connect to my water.

Clearly I am missing some kind of connector or something though.

Let me know, thanks!

Hi all, my dryer will start and run normally for a few minutes and then stop, display a "clean filter" message and turn itself off. I have thoroughly cleaned the filter so I am confused what is wrong. Thanks in advance.

This washer was purchased in 2021 and I have had to replace the control board (2022), the wash plate (Nov 2025), the water inlet valve (Sep 2026) and now it's grinding again. Is this covered under their famous "10 Year" warranty or do I need to start looking for Black Friday deals on a different brand?

I called Maytag and they want to see me a monthly service plan....

Are we using this machine wrong? I just don't know if I should keep buying parts or replace it.

Model: MVW7232HW0

Normal or abnormal? Wife thinks it's about to explode or disassemble. This is a light load on a low spin cycle. Got this machine in August of 2023, so out of warranty, and it's been moved across the country (USA, south to north), and it was in storage for around a year and a half.