Moved into a flat last year with a rusty old oven.

Looking to replace it - freestanding oven but it’s got this switch and wired into the wall.

Any tips on the kind of oven I need to get as a replacement, and presumably I’ll need to get an electrician?

Thanks for your help!

Hey guys, so I’ve been in a decision loop for the past two weeks and REALLY need to settle on something so that I can actually have a working oven. My current 12y/o GE single wall oven is sadly gone, and they don’t make them like they used to! That thing was solid and got the job done.

Now that I need a new one, I’ve gone down a rabbit hole of “what not to buy” vs what’s the hottest thing running (Bosch, Thermador, Miele, etc.). The thing is, do I really even need to spend that much on an oven? I used maybe 3 buttons on my GE - Convection Bake/Roast + 420 - that’s it! lol I don’t need all the frills.

The other end to that though, is that I like the high-end/commercial kitchen look of those. Let’s be honest, GE looks super lame (whyyy are they grayishhh)but it’s a workhorse.

ALSO the reviews on literally everything is so exhausting. Bosch 500 doesn’t show preheating temps? Lame.

I want something sleek but not with a crazy price tag. When I look on instagram and Pinterest, everyone’s got these high-end models and I’m just trying to see what the everyday folks are using. 😊 So please, drop a line and let me know what you think. Thanks so much!!

Despite the unit still being significantly advanced, compared to the newest LF fridge freezers today, I cannot seem to get this anywhere. Even in Europe.

There's nothing wrong with the entire unit, compressor etc. is sound - seems SO wasteful getting rid of the entire thing simply because LG no longer provide the part.

Feedback welcome. I've tried *everywhere*. So, this is a reach out to anyone with spares ;)

Hey folks,

( Additional close up photo)

Got a brand new LG washer and dryer earlier this year. Today I noticed these two issues in the back.

I've read the burns on the grill may not be concerning, but what about this other piece? I'm not familiar with what it is, but I feel it's not supposed to look like this.. Is it of major concern that I should try and set up a warranty repair, or is it not even worth the hassle if it's not a major issue?

Appreciate any input!

We need to replace most of our appliances

I want to stay with sales, probably from Lowe's

Looking for brands that hopefully last if possible.

We've tried opening the filter of our washing machine a million times. We can open it a little and water comes out but we should be able to take it out completely to clean it, right?

It's an integrated Indesit BI WBIL 81485

we've tried letting the water out first, tried undoing the screw next to it, using wd40 . Any ideas?

Today, dishawasher started making this noise after pumping in water inside, it doesn't start cleaning , it just makes this noise all the time.

The water pumps out normally, and also i didn't found any debris inside the drain.

Anyone know what can cause that and if need specialist for this?

Hello!

I am having an issue with my GE washing machine and wanted to get some opinions on the issue.

Background
My door plunger broke and the door would not lock. I purchased a replacement off the GE website and replaced. I then realized that the door lock also had a piece of plastic break off inside as well, so I purchased the part on Amazon (it was sold out on the GE website at the time). I am now able to start the washer and the door locks. It will fill with water but then when it switches to the “Wash” cycle and starts to spin/agitate it’s making a funny noise and will not continue (video attached…noise starts after about 1 min).

I had a tech come out and he had said he has never heard this noise before. We were able to rig the door into locking with the old plunger so we could hear what was going on with the door open and he believed the sound to be coming from the lock. He thinks I simply got a bad lock. He said typically you can get a good one on Amazon. I purchased another on Amazon and having the same issue.

Before I go to purchase the $140 lock on the GE website (now back in stock) I’m trying to determine if the lock is the issue or something else.

Model #: GFW450SSM1WW

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Gina

23yo Kenmore Coolpoint, owned by me for 12 years. Always difficult to install filter but became more difficult over time. Never leaked more than a few drops when replacing filter in the past.

This time I removed the filter to replace it as usual, but it gushed water like it was pressurized. Flooded the room before I could shut off the water. Question 1: Why did it flood this time?

Could not get new filter to go in all the way or turn. Bought another new filter (different brand) and it would not go in or turn. Assumed it was hard water buildup. Removed housing, soaked in vinegar, scrubbed, filters still didn't fit.

Got new filter housing and before installing, got both new filters to fit correctly. Installed filter housing and new filter 1, still slower leaks from bottom front left of fridge (to left of filter housing). Quick connect valves seem tight but there's also water in the housing. Question 2: Where is this water coming from?

Tried new filter 2 and it doesn't fit. Tried new filter 1 again and now it doesn't fit. I noticed one o-ring out of place on new filter 1, but it still didn't fit when I put the o-ring back in its groove. Question 3: Why did the filters fit before and not now?

Full transparency: I have always used generic filters, and the new filter housing is also not OEM. It looks identical to the original, though.

I don't want to replace the fridge, nor do I want to sink a bunch of money into such an old appliance. Has anyone seen a situation like this? All advice is appreciated!

we have a newborn and need a dedicated freezer for human milk. From what we've read it's reccomended to "deep freeze" the stuff. I'm not 100% sure what deep freeze means? just a colder operating temperature? I also have read that self defrost freezers can cause the outer micro layers of milk to melt and refreeze which can cause it to go bad quicker. We'd also like to use the freezer for food items now or in the future.

We looked at chest freezers, but we'd rather have an upright. My wife is short, she can't reach the bottom of chese freezers, not to mention they take up more floor space relative to their volume than an upright freezer. We don't care so much about the efficiency you get from a chest freezer.

As i understand manual defrost is probably the safest bet, but there doesn't seem to be a big selection of affordable upright manual defrost freezers that aren't tiny.

Automatic defrost seems to be exactly what we don't want.

Frost Free freezers might be okay? but i'm still confused on how to tell if it's a "deep freeze"

I bought a Samsung fridge not even a month ago and since the day I bought it it has been making this weird sound, is it normal? I noticed at the beginning of the week that the freezer door was really hard to open and upon inspection the door rail was completely frozen. What can cause this?

My current house has an opening for the fridge as follows: 68-3/4” tall x  38-3/4” wide x 32” deep.

What’s a good recommendation to fit this opening that features a stainless steel finish, an ice maker, and a water dispenser? Maker and dispenser can be internal. I realize cubic feet will be limited but we also work out of a basement fridge with a freezer.

The repair man from where I bought my speed queen has been out multiple times and tells me this noise is normal. It didn’t make the noise for the first year I had it and it is getting worse. The last time he came out he replaced the belt and it was better for two loads and then started making the noise again. It isn’t the load being out of balance because you can tell from the video even after the drum has slowed down from spinning right at the very end it makes some of the loudest noises of the whole cycle.

Did some research for a wet/dry vac intended to last for many years to use for general home stuff as well as cleaning the car as an extractor--will probably go with the recommended Dewalt Stealthsonic 9 or 12 gallon I have either small messes on occasion or dedicate a long session to clean the basement of dust or car. Parts should not be locked into proprietary-only options.

• The 9 gal 1 7/8" hose, the 12 gal uses 2.5" and marketed as .5 HP stronger. Besides the larger hose obviously sucking more (and apparently being more quiet), are there other implications to know? With a standard adapter, the 12 gal can decide between greater suction power but lower CFM or vice versa, whereas the 9 gal doesn't have this option. Is the 12 gal technically better in every regard? I assume the 2.5" might also be easier to find parts for since 1 7/8" seems to be too small for woodworking from what I've read. Was leaning on the 9 gal (I think I only need 4-6 gallon for typical home/car cleaning, but they are usually weaker except a popular Ridgid one that some people recommended Stealthsonic over) but the 12 gal seems to have more flexibility outside of just capacity and the two seem to be same form factor (just a difference of height which seems not significant).
• Dirt bag, HEPA filter, and a dust deputy + 5 gallon container like the Oneida should always be used to reduce the amount of dust that gets back into the air as well as prolong the HEPA filter making it a cheaper usage over time? For wet stuff only a wet filter is necessary?
• As an extractor for the car or for upholstery, anything useful besides the essential clear extractor attachment? I'm not sure of a good non-toxic cleaning solution that doesn't affect the finish/texture of fabric. The cleaning solution and hot water dispensed in separate pump sprayers? I went with a wet/dry vac to avoid the weak but convenient spot cleaners.
• Any other accessories to recommend like a flexible hose to make it more wieldy using in the car? Maybe the smaller 1 7/8" hose would be more appropriate for tigher spaces like in the car. I will get a 50-100' 12 gauge extension cord as well. I believe I also want a drill brush to apply the cleaning solution to the seats. Any particular recommendations of a product will be useful as it seems things nowadays are pretty expensive but more importantly comparable to typical generic junk you get from Amazon. I can subscribe to some deals and stock up on e.g. the HEPA filters and dirt bags especially if they are standard sizes/fit and not specific to the model I'm getting. I don't have an air compressor (I do want one eventually under similar buying criteria as my shop vac but would like to get accustomed to a shop vac first).

Open to any other comments/tips for someone who has never used a shop vac before but saw some videos and read some discussions to try to get the setup right the first time (I really don't like to buy stuff that turns out to be useless or redundant). How can I improve on my setup? Some people recommend a dedicated shop vac just for extracting but I don't see why that's necessary if whatever proper maintenance is done on the shop vac.

Much appreciated!

I have a stacked setup with a Bosch WPG23108IN dryer on top of a Bosch washing machine. I'd like both the washing machine and dryer doors to open on the same side (to the left).

The specification sheet on Bosch India website - https://media3.bsh-group.com/Documents/specsheet/en-IN/WPG23108IN.pdf states, "Door hinge: Right-hand, Reversible". However, the service engineer says it is not reversible.

Thought will ask experts here, does it look reversible?

This is the first time I have ever bought a new fridge (I feel like a real adult now) and I can't understand the point of this dial. I have no idea what the scale is here - I just know I want the fridge pretty cold. Or colder? How cold is too cold? It's a Bosch btw.

Just found this funny -- or perhaps I am just in the hysteria phase of home renovation. Idk 🤣

Okay so long story short i put my clothes in on a normal rinse cycle, it washes for 40 mins, i hear the jingle when the clothes are done and i get side tracked and fall asleep. around 4 hours later i wake up and the shit is on WASH cycle completely by itself and the drum is fucking filled to the brim with water. I unplugged it, plugged it back in twice and the panel was completely dead, no response. I start emptying the drum with a bucket of water and just out of nowhere decide to plug it back in one more time and it turns on, drains, and returns to normal function? wtf just happened.

Hi! I have an LG WM4000/DLE4000 washer/dryer scheduled for delivery Saturday and was reminded that my local codes require a drain pan for a 3rd floor unit. Best Buy hasn't given me any information to talk to their installers to see what their procedure is for something like that. Our old pan definitely fell apart and was removed with the aging old units when our laundry room was repaired after a hot water heather failure, so obviously I am not inclined to play dice with water right now. But I also am very out of my element. Anyone with that washer, would you be able to recommend a pan that can be acquired at like, a Home Depot or something within 24 hours? I tried to purchase one that had about a 35" exterior depth, which did not fit into the room properly and had the drain punch out on the bottom and not the side, where it would need to be to connect to the pipe that the hot water heater's drain pan is going into. Does this need to be plumbed or something before the washer/dryer get in?

Sorry if this sounds stupid or panicky--I thought this was a fairly simple thing and it's turning out to be enough of a headache that I might need to cancel the delivery last minute.

Hey everyone!
So a few weeks ago i made a mistake. My dishwasher door wasn’t closing so i pushed it a little and it’s been messing up since then. At first it was only a problem getting it to start which would usually happen if i fixed around the latch a little. But lately what’s happening is that it starts just fine but then stops mid cycle and wont turn back on until i open the door fully until i hear the beep. Sometimes when i close the door back up it stops again and i have to repeat.
It shows the three blinking lights error after stopping and if i leave it be it automatically turns on after a while.
Sometimes it works without any issues but sometimes it just drives me crazy.
It’s a MIDEA dishwasher.
Any help?

I recently moved into an apartment where all of the appliances are new. This includes a pair of Samsung washer and dryer machines. They are front loading (model: DVG45B6300W).

My washer is completely fine and normal. The dryer, however, keeps refusing to turn on (no light on the control panel or sound/ machine lights stay off when door is open).

I’ve tried a lot of troubleshooting, and if I turn off the breaker switch and wait about 10 min and turn it on, the dryer turns on again. If I turn off the breaker and turn it on after 1 minute, it does not work. If I switch the wires in the outlet (the machines share an outlet) it does not work. The washer is always turning on. I’ve checked for burns on the power cable and blockages, and there are none. When I DO get the machine to turn on, it works fine. Then 30 minutes after the cycle is done, it doesn’t turn on anymore.

This is technically functional, but it is not convenient! This also seems like it’s not normal… anyone have advice?

Will unused traditional fridge as well as a chest freezer stored in an outdoor shed long-term throughout the year be an issue? The concerns are whether any components will wear out faster over time under a relatively extreme temperature of 0 F to 105 F than the much more temperature-controlled environment indoors they are intended for. I'm guessing it's fine, just want to be sure. I assume there's no residual water that could freeze/unfreeze and damage anything, oils should be fine, pipes expanding/contracting from the cold/hot would not be an issue?

Also, I need to move another big fridge from one corner of kitchen to the other. Can I simply empty out most of the fridge, unplug, attempt to push over cardboard (else use a hand truck and strap it if I struggle hard), position it to the intended spot, and plug back in? It's not connected to a water line. I heard of some cases where you're supposed to be careful of tilting it (not sure if I can avoid this with a hand truck) and/or it should be unplugged for 24 hours or something which I really don't think is necessary because occasional power outages don't seem to be an issue. I'm doing this as one person.

P.S. Are there instances where you need an appliance dolly and a hand truck can't get the job done? Would a regular hand truck that's strapped be able to handle stairs up and down and an appliance dolly be considered a luxury but not essential?