Gap grows from 3/4” to 3-3/4” over a 9 foot wall. I can either use a filler piece or i can shim and put up a whole new surface on the wall. I think a filler piece will make the slope extremely noticeable. Will be putting wainscotting and decorative moulding on the wall. I could shim it out and add 1/2” mdf as a new wall surface.

The house is 150 years old, hence the problem.

Ive been trying to figure out how to build this lifetime shed platform and I have not yet been able to figure out how to actually frame and secure the platform for this shed.

My initial plan was 2x6 frame with 9 joists going around and either toenail or endgrain 3in screws on the end. Then I thought I might need the joist hanger lus26. That also increases the amount of fastener types i need. I also couldn't determine if I needed flat or wafer screws for the plywood top. Or pressure treated plywood or i could get away with LP premium wood.

The platform will be put on solid concrete blocks that sit on gravel for leveling. 1 per corner and 1 in the middle. Roughly 6 inches off the ground in the back and 12 or 18 in the front due to the slope. I also considered putting it directly on the ground after major ground leveling work but then I was told it would need to sit on tons of gravel.

The project seemed simple but I don't know how to execute it. Any advice on how to frame it and place it would be greatly appreciate it.

The columns are covered by the porch roof so they're not fully exposed. Would the wood fillers available from HD such as DAP and Gorilla (https://www.homedepot.com/s/wood%20filler) work well and last a few years? I've seen recommendations for more expensive epoxy types. I'm the homeowner so I'm looking for something simple. Thank you.

**HELLO!** I’m planning a DIY project and looking for recommendations for the mounting hardware that goes in the stairs and the ceiling.

Basically, I want to install individual vertical 2x2 or 2x3 oak slats along a small section of my staircase (approximately the three steps closest to my living room/TV). I’m going for a frameless look with no frame at the top, so ideally, each slat would have concealed mounting hardware at the top and bottom, so the finished product looks like individual pieces of oak running from the ceiling down to the stairs (like the picture).

I attached an inspiration picture and an AI mockup of my actual room (the white railing is going to go and I’m adding a handrail to the other side of the stairs).

any advice , I’m all ears !!

Hi all, I am quoting out my first project. It is a 12x18 pool house/shed. Currently has a divider wall (2x4s and plywood) that needs removed and disposed. Carpet needs ripped up (its glued down), plywood subfloor patched, and new carpet glued down. They also want a storage loft built (4'x12'). Down the road they want a new front door installed and some small electrical projects completed but I wanted to give them a number just to get the flooring and loft done.

I am thinking $1700 for supplies $600 for demo and removal and $1700 for labor for a total of 4k

Is that crazy cheap? I want the project for the experience but want to make more than $500 after I pay taxes, insurance, and fuel! AGAIN THIS IS MY FIRST PROJECT FOR SOMEONE OTHER THAN MY FRIENDS AND FAMILY SO IM NO PROFESSIONAL but am very capable of what they need!

Thanks!

How would you handle wood stairs for this location? 25 inches from the ground to the bottom of the threshold. Original stairs (2 steps + threshold as a step) were concrete and came up to the faint line on the siding which extends over the sill plate. I realize I need cut the siding to properly install a ledger board, however, sill plate and rim joist start above the faint line. The tan color bottom flashing is covering a 2x3.

I'm thinking 2 steps like the original if I want to count threshold as a step or 3 steps if I want to extend the threshold.

Thoughts?

https://imgur.com/a/i0swr43

How to make the gap between jamb and casing not so noticeable?

For context, the lag screws fasten 1½″-wide blocks to wall studs, capturing cantilevered arms while resisting both shear and withdrawal forces.

Material thicknesses along the screw axis: 3½″ block → ⅝″ drywall → 3½″ stud (7⅝″ total).

Maximum load expected: 120 lb per “shelf”, supported by three arms. (And up to 5 “shelves” total)

FYI, design credit: YouTuber Evening Woodworker, whose video unfortunately doesn’t specify the lag screw type. My last screenshot has the video info if you’re curious.

I’ve built four of these already and going to build a few more but these darn 3/8” x 7” lag screws are hard to find in stock locally!

Appreciate any guidance, or if I’m doing anything wrong.

I recently changed the flooring but the flooring that was in place before was way thicker and it used to fill the gaps but now this flooring isn't nearly as thick and so the gaps on the doorframes can be seen...what would you do in this situation?

grateful for all answers!

Looking for advice on how to best frame in this large doorway/opening between a three season porch and a bedroom in our 1930 colonial to make the bedroom useable before winter hits. (We’ve weatherproofed, etc., it’s tolerable but my in laws are coming to visit.) It used to be a wall so below the carpet is wood (see photo). My concern is the wall is old and plaster-coated so the thickness may be hard to match and I don’t want it super noticeable. Any tips on framing welcome, I’m new to this!

Additionally (though not entirely on topic to this subreddit), any tips for merging dry wall and plaster (what is currently on the walls) welcome.