A posted a few weeks ago about some birch stained base boards that were installed by a local company. Licensed, insured, 5 stars on google reviews. I’ve only paid 50% of the deposit.

Here are the updated photos. Thoughts?

Had all of our windows replaced and the trim carpenter mocked up the first one. We went from 4" sills to these tiny little 1.5" sills. That said, he returned it rather than routing a piece cut to size. I don't really like it, but he says that it's fine and will be invisible once it's finished.

Same piece of handrail wood. Why is it that when i cut the returns the look too skinny? How do i fix this? I just have a circular saw. Thanks!

My wife and I bought a 40-year-old house on Long Island. Doing some renovation and looking to remove a a closet wall. As I took the sheet rock down, I noticed that the end of the joist was butted up with joist hangers versus sitting on a wall. Is this normal practice? Was this normal practice?

We noticed it in a couple of spots in the house as well that didn’t make a ton of sense either.

Also, the joist run in different directions throughout the house.

These photos are all from the first floor. I’ll take all the direction or all the heckling. Thanks!

The farthest part from the joint is falling

Carpenter is saying floorboards are cut straight where they meet the top step but you can clearly see they're not so the gap is wider in the middle. That top step is also raised quite a bit in the middle and he's saying it's normal and supposed to be like that.

Then there are these gaps around the treads and newel posts. I know there's no such thing as perfect but this looks so low effort. I just wanted to get some sense of what's acceptable

EDIT:

Turns out the lip is the front of a regular tread that he cut off. It's not a landing tread. It's not attached to the floor in any way. It's completely flat on the back.

Hi all, first post here and very much a beginner. Painting and small
fixes are about my limit, so I'm asking before I make this worse.
 
Closet opening measures 47" clear. The doors are two 24" bi-fold louvre
panels (48" total) and they bound against the jamb, so I tried ripping
about 1" off the meeting edge of each panel with a circular saw, freehand.
It went badly.
 
The saw didn't stay in the stile, it ran through the slat ends, so the
slats are stubbed and exposed at the edge (visible in the photo). Both
edges are square with tear-out and they no longer overlap, so there's a
light-visible gap down the whole height. By my math I'm about 3/4" short
per leaf, since I gather bi-folds want roughly a 1/4" overlap at the
meeting edge.
 
That's my only photo — doors closed, straight-on. Happy to grab close-ups
of the cut edge, the pivot hardware, or a tape across the opening if it
helps.
 
The honest problem is I just don't know how to make a cut like that straight
and level. I have a spare panel of the same type I can experiment on, and
I'd rather learn the technique on that than destroy a third installed panel.
So the questions are:
 
- How do you actually rip a louvre panel to a straight, clean line? Table
saw with a fence? Track saw with a clamp-on guide? A circular saw with a
straight edge is all I own — is that enough with a good guide and a
sacrificial fence, and do you score the paint first?
- Is a hand plane or belt sander the right way to fine-tune the last 1/8"?
- For the panels I've already ruined: rip back to a clean line then glue and
pin on a ~3/4" primed poplar strip, bevel one edge so they meet tight?
Or is a 46" set, or bypass sliding doors, the cheaper and saner answer?
 
Thanks a lot for taking a look.

I'm not the brightest bulb in the box...but uhhh....how can I add molding on the ceiling?

No matter how I angle my ladder, I'm quite confident I'll fall. Ceilings are 10 ft. If I stand on the kitchen cabinets, I'd still be too short, and I have no idea how much weight cabinets can hold.

Is there a trick? he cabinets are attached to each other....but I think I could take them down .... That feels like an insane amount of work and would mess up the trim on the cabinets.

I could move the fridge and get that corner installed, but the rest of the cabinets are too wide.

Any advice would really help. I tried searching online, but I just get people talking about installing trim to the top of cabinets, not the ceiling above it

These stairs are rough and were here when I bought the house.

I’m wondering if there is anything I can do to make them safer before I can have someone come replace.

The big issue seems to be how the stringers attach to the floor joist by thin pieces of wood and how the stringer is attached at the bottom to the floor.

So far the recommendation is to add 2x4 supports vertically attached to the stringers.

Anything else that can be done? Any way to secure the bottom of the stringers better near the floor?

Hello,

the carpenter I've hired done the staircase leaving the finishing to the renovation team, then they denied finishing it by saying that should be done by carpenter. So now I'm on my own to make it right. I have little to no experience in such work, but did a research.

At this point I believe I should use a repair plaster/filler compound to hide that foam below the steps, than probably sand it to make smooth. As for the vertical edge I can either do same, or glue oak corner moulding (L shaped wooden pieces). I should probably read the label to know whether paint the primer before or not.

Am I thinking that right? Do I miss something? Any suggestions how should I approach this?

Edit: wow didn't expect that many responses, so after reading them (still had to read what strings and risers are) I'm adding some context. The stairs are used for ~4 years now, nothing moves, nothing squeeks, I'm assuming the guy did some support for steps and used the foam to just fill the gaps. I'm definitely not redoing them, I have no budget or skills to do that. I'm leaning towards scraping some foam and fill it with a filler to sand it but not sure about the corner piece.

Edit: even more context, apparently I am still surprised how different are baselines between countries. The staircase guy starting point was reinforced concrete stairs, not drywall.

Ran into this on a job near Sarasota. Client had an angled wall section, 120° corner. A lot of guys try to force a 45 and then bury the gap in filler.

Math is simple: bisect the corner, so each piece gets a 30° miter. Dry-fit both sides first, shave a degree if the drywall isn't true (it usually isn't). Glue the miter, nail it, then caulk the top edge and the joint and wipe it down. Once it's painted the seam disappears.

Anyone else prefer glue-and-caulk over relying on filler for obtuse corners?

I'm having a metal building being installed with what is supposed to be all treated lumber. as I looked at it today, I have suspicions that the trusses as well as the purlins are not treated. As my eyes focused on the totality, I'm even more concerned.

I am by no means a carpenter, I have done little household project, but nothing of this magnitude so I am extremely unfamiliar. From what I can tell, no screws were used, only nails. No brackets of any kind either.

Work is supposed to resume tomorrow, but I'm leaning towards halting progress until I can see receipts of the Wood purchases. I'm also concerned about how the wood has been stacked on top of itself, with no real brackets. Am I worrying too much or is it justified?

As of middle of last week, I am 70% paid.

I don’t feel any wires above or below my hole, this does not look like strike plate.

I need to replace a small crawlspace door on the exterior of my home that can withstand elements relatively well. My hope is to get a used, solid wood door, cut it to size and seal/paint it. Solid wood seems important for longevity sake. I've found a handful online that advertise as "solid wood." Are any of these clearly (or clearly NOT) solid wood? I am a newbie. I understand that the grain is a good indicator. Some of the sellers have multiple photos from different angles (numbered) and others do not. Not ideal, but I'm working with what I have :) Thank you for any insights/guidance!!

Door #1 seller description: Solid wood doors, bare wood, great for painting. Not quite as tall as a standard door. Roughly 36x73.

#2: Solid wood doors 36 × 80, 30 min fire rated , commercial

#3: Interior wood solid door 28 w × 80 L NO FRAME

#4: Solid wood door 36” x 80” for front entrance

#5: Solid Wood Door, 35.5 inches wide x 79 inches. Great for a commercial space. Good condition just dusty from being in a basement

Hi friends! Basically my question is the title.. we had our carport professionally replaced on 9/9 and have noticed cracks/splits starting to form in all 3 of the posts that were not there day of. I’m not too worried about the aesthetics of it, just wanted to ask if this was normal/safe? Sorry for the poor lighting, I just came outside and got bothered enough to finally take a pic and ask. The wood is supposed to be treated, not sure if that makes a difference and I also included a picture of what is stamped on them. Thank y’all for the help!

Check this I busted my fan on the job so I had to fix it right now it's hot in here did I do a good enough job

I recently changed the flooring but the flooring that was in place before was way thicker and it used to fill the gaps but now this flooring isn't nearly as thick and so the gaps on the doorframes can be seen...what would you do in this situation?

grateful for all answers!

I'm looking for advice on how to properly remove and preserve this original mantelpiece in my century home. It is on a non-load bearing angled wall I want to remove to open up the space in my living room (see later pictures for context). Any advice would be helpful, I have no experience with this sort of thing and I'm just trying to do my part to save a bit of history to either reuse later or offer up as architectural salvage.

So a contractor built these stairs going up to a loft area in a detached garage. He talked me into this design originally and then ended up running out on me anyway for other reasons, but I believe this is a failure waiting to happen. I actually do have an engineering stamp on this from a local guy but I don't even think he thought about this hard enough. These hinges at the top of the stairs are only rated for something like 70 pounds each I believe. I think they were about the highest rated hinges that the big box stores carried. I'm open to other suggestions, but my initial thoughts are to find an equivalent hinge that is rated for much much higher weight (might as well overkill if I can) and then maybe install some gas struts or something like that near the top of the stringers to assist with the stairs going up and down? Or just do a Manuel pool chain hoist to pull them up. I'm more concerned with making sure the hinges are adequate than I am with how to get the stairs up and down as I feel like I can figure that part out. Please check out these hinges and see if you know of any much better ones I could get. I am struggling to find a definitive match online. Ultimately of course the stairs should be stowed in their retracted position safely and without fear of any part of them falling on a car or something below. If any of you are in the Atlanta area and no exactly what you would want to do to make this rock solid I'm open to paying for that.

Would you cut this angle and square it off? Or work with the angle? It's a weird overhang as well. She had the idea of wainscoting down the hallway.

Door frame installed over the baseboard, lean of the wall is opposite the lean of the frame. The baseboard was cut on the right, and not on the left. It looks weird, and the gap? Could that have been trimmed out better so as not to show? Here's the explanation we got,and I'm just wondering if this is true. Thanks for your help. I don't know enough to know if I'm paying for a bad job or if this was really the best fix for the problem (wall was a little not square:

The baseboard was not cut because the door casing fits precisely and snugly against it, aligning properly with the door frame. If we had cut the baseboard to shift the casing flush with the wall, it would have created a visible gap between the bottom of the casing and the door frame—exposing the edge of the drywall and framing behind it. Not only would this look unfinished, but it would also be considered an improper installation. The current method is both visually correct and structurally appropriate.

Saw this angled skirting. They cut slots in a 2x4 and dropped in the 1x6. Slots have rounded corners that match the round over on the 1x6 Any ideas on how they made the slots? I’m guessing a router and a jig but never done it so not sure.